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Posted (edited) · Simplify3D

Just add the temp sensor on the area where you set the hotend temp. Or easier, use the um2 profile and edit the stuff :D

Specially the gcode end/start and bed size.

Edited by Guest
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    I don't remeber where I did share my profile, it has heated bed. If you find my post :D

    Also, just change the profile to um2 and rewrite your settings.

    Heat controller t2 it's the bed. T1 the second extruder and t0 first extruder. Press (add temperature controller)

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    Lower corner, left of your screen :)

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    all;

    love to get some feedback on my settings. been using Simplify 3D since it has some advantages over Cura for me, for instance direct output to OctoPrint but also better support structures and so far, better (perceived?) quality.

    my issue however is that if I slice a print in Cura, it takes 12 hours. if I take the same print and with the same kind of settings as far as I can see, it would take at least 18 hours..

    love to get some feedback on my settings as per below

    my goal is good quality with 0.2 layer height in PLA;

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    Posted (edited) · Simplify3D

    Maybe it's

    569b70beac956.PNG

    The speed adjustments of

    'Adjust printing speed for layers below'

    This does a progressive slow down on layers that are close to 15secs, so if a layer takes less than 15secs it will slow down to 20% BUT, if the layer it's 17 secs, it will do a calculation, so it would low down to (guessing) 30% overall speed.

    Also, on layers below 10secs, you have 30% max fan, that would cut the air, since you have layer 3 fan 60%. You should set that to at least the maximum fan you want on your print.

    I would change to 5 secs the 'adjust printing speed for layers below', reduction to 50% should be enough, unless your print has lots of pointy thingies (then you need a 20% slow down for example).

    Bridging fan speed override to 45% will make put less fan than your normal fan (you have 60% at layer 3), for Bridging you need as much air as you can generally (pla).

    Overall, you have a mess of % on this page.

    Also, one important thing that it's really hard to understand on simplify3d, it's that some Folder Tab affect others layers tap.

    FOR EXAMPLE

    On your image, the 'Allow speed reductions down to 20%' affects everything. For example, on Layer tap, first layers speed, if you set it, let's say 10%, it wont work, because the maximum speed reduction it's down to 20%', so the first layers even if you set it to 1% it will be always 20%, unless you change that value or disable it (I disable it for my flat prints).

    So, yes, you need to balance that screen, and if your other values are like cura, it should be more or less the same.

    Do this.

    Generate the gcode with cura, and the gcode with s3d. Then open the Gcode on s3d, and view the layers speed, you should see what layers are being printed slower or faster on each gcode.

    Also if you want to use mm/s and not mm/m, you can change it on S3D Preferences

    5a33167e22266_Capturadepantalla2016-01-17alas12_13_30.thumb.png.151c391f654cd0cc5fddb23005c14246.png

    OMG... Simplify3d guys should hire me to give support... And they have my posts blocked on their forum... They are lucky their software it's good, because they suck :D

    5a33167e22266_Capturadepantalla2016-01-17alas12_13_30.thumb.png.151c391f654cd0cc5fddb23005c14246.png

    Edited by Guest
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    thanks! that is fantastic feedback! i was already messing with those settings since i thought something might be wrong there but this confirmed it :)

    question thought.. is there an easy way to place the objects flat just like there is in cura? if you have really small models with loads of triangles the select surface just doesn't work right..

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    Yes the triangle selector with 'place surface on the table' (on Edit) it's kinda messy if there are many triangles. I use to model them on the way I want to print them. Other way, it's just to 'drop model to table'. A mix of both, and adjusting x/y/z on the object use to work for me.

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    I've given up on S3D. It offers no real advantages, and the infuriating "installation is corrupted" issues have finally annoyed me to the point of removing it from my system.

    I won't recommend it to anyone until they remove their idiotic "copy protection" that disables the software almost every time I try to use it.

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    So you said. If you want a sollution ask on simplify3d forums, send a support ticket or sell the software licence :)

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    I just ordered a Ultimaker 2+ and like to use simplify3d. Where is the best place as a newbie to get information about that setup? Is there a firmware difference between the U2 and the U2+ since the U2+ isn't listed on the supported printer list on the simplify3d website? Thank you very much.

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    There is a big difference in firmware between the U2 and the U2+. I'd always recommend using Cura to update your firmware as it's probably more up to date then s3d.

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    Simplify3D, except that on the gcode it changes the current to the E motor (and you should delete this since it's better not to touch that, but on S3D 3.x they added it to the ultimaker 2 profile.

    5a3316a1dfd53_Capturadepantalla2016-01-19alas14_06_49.thumb.png.8da98e0c5f2e285116d2036d4e6b4b2a.png

    Well, except that, s3d doesn't affect the machine. You can adjust the size of the bed, x/y/z on the profile. So you could just get the um2, remove that Script line and edit the print area to what you use.

    And for profile, the basic S3D profile for any ultimaker machine just sucks. They set very low speeds and settings and it takes time to learn what does what.

    You could use S3D, but if you never had experience before with slicers, I think it would be better to use Cura and get the basics right, then you can go S3D and learn to make fine tunning, multi processes, tricks, etc etc etc.

    5a3316a1dfd53_Capturadepantalla2016-01-19alas14_06_49.thumb.png.8da98e0c5f2e285116d2036d4e6b4b2a.png

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    @neotko;

    could you share your basic settings for Simplify3d for your Um2? very interested to see what you have changed compared to stock :)

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    I shared it somewhere but I can't find it.

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/841qgl4atfekw9w/umo.fff?dl=0

    It's for umo+, my bed size it's different because my custom extruder, also the config it's for 1.75mm filament. Also start/finish sequence it's different than cura/s3d, just small changes =)

    I edit it constantly and I use around 16 profiles different, specially since each object has different needs.

    5a3316a223a00_Capturadepantalla2016-01-19alas14_27_00.thumb.png.3644abab8919d52cfae247a93b69cdf2.png

    For example, this it's a keychain I make/sell on my shop. It has a process for each thing, different speeds, coasting, retracts. Also different extrusion % to make it as clean as posible and as fast as posible.

    5a3316a223a00_Capturadepantalla2016-01-19alas14_27_00.thumb.png.3644abab8919d52cfae247a93b69cdf2.png

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    The advantage of having this many processes it's that I can design thinking on using them like this. So I can have perfectly flat top layers without any zigzag and get the best posible top layers.

    5a3316a28e3f4_Capturadepantalla2016-01-19alas14_31_00.thumb.png.29c41097c076750ee23d6612a711f299.png

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    There is a big difference in firmware between the U2 and the U2+. I'd always recommend using Cura to update your firmware as it's probably more up to date then s3d.

     

    * Feeder motor steps ?

    * PID for 35 W heater ?

    anything else ?

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    There is a big difference in firmware between the U2 and the U2+. I'd always recommend using Cura to update your firmware as it's probably more up to date then s3d.

     

    * Feeder motor steps ?

    * PID for 35 W heater ?

    anything else ?

     

    Material profiles & nozzle selection. Like I said, it's not a trivial difference.

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    Does that material profiles have nozzle size and brands or its just a few standard temps. Maybe it's not trivial and it also change and self adjust with speed? I would love that.

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    Thank you all for the replies. I already used S3D with a leapfrog printer and would love to use it with my Ultimaker 2+ also.

    What I understand now: I have to remove the first line in the Starting Script and tweak the movement speeds. Is the build space any different then the U2? Anything else I have to take care of?

    Would be awesome if someone who uses S3D with a U2+ could share his fff file. This would be a great start for further tweaking.

    Thanks you all for your replies.

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    Posted (edited) · Simplify3D

    Thank you all for the replies. I already used S3D with a leapfrog printer and would love to use it with my Ultimaker 2+ also.

    What I understand now: I have to remove the first line in the Starting Script and tweak the movement speeds. Is the build space any different then the U2? Anything else I have to take care of?

    Would be awesome if someone who uses S3D with a U2+ could share his fff file. This would be a great start for further tweaking.

    Thanks you all for your replies.

     

    I'm using S3D with my UM2+ extended with great success. You can download my FFF profile here.

    When you want to use this profile with an UM2+, make sure you adjust the build volume of the Z-axis to 205mm instead of the current 305mm.

    I follow @Neotko that it's a lot safer to start with Cura with you UM2+. :)

    good luck!

    Edited by Guest
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    There is a big difference in firmware between the U2 and the U2+. I'd always recommend using Cura to update your firmware as it's probably more up to date then s3d.

     

    * Feeder motor steps ?

    * PID for 35 W heater ?

    anything else ?

     

    Material profiles & nozzle selection. Like I said, it's not a trivial difference.

     

    Interesting... can you elaborate why the nozzle selection in firmware? as you also already set it in Cura...

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    Also if there are changes on the firmware to improve nozzle size, why this updates don't reach umo/umo+ (specially + since it uses the same board and a more powerfull heater).

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