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Yellowshark

thanks!!

the clicking is the motor slipping during print and also in the priming (startup script)

G1 F150 E30

the printer is running now

Material white PLA (colourfab)

layer height .1200

1800 mm/min

outline and in fill speed 55%

temp 200

extrusion multiplier 1.0

to your questions when I prime it is manually (move material) print dose not work if I don't do this

also looked at the script earlier on in this thread , purging E19 (19mm?) at 200 feed

I am purging at 150 and the motor is clicking (when I look its not grinding)

fans at 70%

I'm printing at moment and just uped temp to 205 fans 70% to try to stop feeder motor clicking (worked) at moment

to your question clicking after layer 1, answer no clicking can be heard during this first layer printing, I was thinking it might be to slow

Im using iRoberts feeder with yoke of 34mm

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    Ok thanks for that Bob. Well as I read your settings you are printing too hot :)You have a layer height of .120 at speed of less than 15mm/s. That is a reeeeeally small volume to push through and I suspect I would be no higher than 185c for that.

    I am not surprised that you are not hearing it on layer 1 because normally one prints slower on layer 1 i.e. less volume i.e. less stress on the feeder system. But in your case I am not sure what speed you are printing at on layer 1. Is the 55% speed reduction effective on layer 1 also? Also I am guessing that your layer thickness may be more on layer 1 (a .12 layer should be difficult to get to stick unless you bed level and nozzle to bed distance are perfect) so on that basis one might expect to hear clicking on layer 1 and not elsewhere! Very weird.

    Anyway. 1. I would stick with normal PLA until you have resolved this. 2. You have to prime your filament before printing, Firstly, you previous print retracted so the filament is not where it needs to be to keep the nozzle replenished. Secondly you should always check that your filament is flowing straight (i.e it des not curl as it exits the nozzle) and consistently before starting your print. 3. I would do a number of atomic pulls you may have some bronzefill stuck in the extruder somewhere 4. Failing that it sounds like a filament mechanical drive problem or a filament pathway problem; some of the posts above are advising how to diagnose/fix these 5. Double check all your settings and make sure all your speeds apart from travel speed are at or below 1800mm/m -I would chop that 55% modifier - if you do not have a drive problem you really should have no issues pushing .120mm layers through at 30mm/s with a temp of 205 6. I assume you have been checking the temp display on the printer to check it is at 205c. 7. During the print touch the extruder to make sure you that you get that ouch that's hot sensation. 8. Can the filament flow freely from the spool without any restriction - I assume you have the filament size correctly stated in S3D?

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    Bob, I have just seen this from @gr5 on another thread - it might help you - I was not aware.

    The extruder system on the UMO used to grind filament a lot when you printed with too much pressure/force on the filament. The UM2 was designed to be able to control this filament such that the feeder would skip back rather than grind the filament. It skips so far back it can take a while before the filament starts coming out again.

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    The UM2 was designed to be able to control this filament such that the feeder would skip back rather than grind the filament. It skips so far back it can take a while before the filament starts coming out again.

     

    It's funny you should say that. It's not designed that way, it's a result of dropping the geared feeder. This actually causes a number of issues, which is why the um2+ has a geared feeder again.

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    Yellow shark

    1st layer was printed

    60% speed

    Layer height 150%

    All other layer setting for first layer left at 100%

    It's filament size is stipulated in s3d

    Yes have read temp on the um2

    Filament is being held on spool with iRoberts filament spool holder on bearings.

    I suspect I have a drive problem either it is feeder side or possible within the head Ptfe/spacer,

    IMG_0801.thumb.jpg.346030eef61ec2eee7cce99aac5ac32d.jpg

    I did not have an issue before I changed feeder/head and setting is s3d worked.

    Will strip head later today/tomorrow

    I do suspect it is an issue of filament being

    IMG_0801.thumb.jpg.346030eef61ec2eee7cce99aac5ac32d.jpg

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    Nallath

    Does that mean if I crank up the pressure on the filament the the motor will skip instead of the grinding the filament

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    Yellow shark

    1st layer was printed

    60% speed

    Layer height 150%

    All other layer setting for first layer left at 100%

    It's filament size is stipulated in s3d

    Yes have read temp on the um2

    Filament is being held on spool with iRoberts filament spool holder on bearings.

    I suspect I have a drive problem either it is feeder side or possible within the head Ptfe/spacer,

    IMG_0801.thumb.jpg.346030eef61ec2eee7cce99aac5ac32d.jpg

    I did not have an issue before I changed feeder/head and setting is s3d worked.

    Will strip head later today/tomorrow

    I do suspect it is an issue of filament being

     

    Hmm this is interesting.. is this the olsson block, a PTFE coupler and my tube? there seems to be a lot of room between the PTFE coupler and the hot end isolator. there should be around 1 or max 2mm..

    it seems yours has around 5 mm..

    if there is too much room between the block and the PTFE coupler, filament will get in between

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    Korneel

    Ptfe and steel coupler from 3dsolex and there is i2k in there I had to shave off some of the tube to cater for i2k yes I thought there was also a lot more gap it is not leaking (I think it's not) I am going to strip it tonight/tomorrow have ordered replacements from 3dsolex there new version, if I'm going to strip the head I may as well replace, also was going to make a new spacer out of alloy (you agree).

    But the head only goes back together one way how do you think I should account for the extra space.

    Will measure it

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    Yellow shark

    1st layer was printed

    60% speed

    Layer height 150%

    All other layer setting for first layer left at 100%

    It's filament size is stipulated in s3d

    Yes have read temp on the um2

    Filament is being held on spool with iRoberts filament spool holder on bearings.

    I suspect I have a drive problem either it is feeder side or possible within the head Ptfe/spacer,

    IMG_0801.thumb.jpg.346030eef61ec2eee7cce99aac5ac32d.jpg

    I did not have an issue before I changed feeder/head and setting is s3d worked.

    Will strip head later today/tomorrow

    I do suspect it is an issue of filament being

     

    Hmm this is interesting.. is this the olsson block, a PTFE coupler and my tube? there seems to be a lot of room between the PTFE coupler and the hot end isolator. there should be around 1 or max 2mm..

    it seems yours has around 5 mm..

    if there is too much room between the block and the PTFE coupler, filament will get in between

     

    maybe there's an I2K insulator also? :)

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    Yellow shark

    1st layer was printed

    60% speed

    Layer height 150%

    All other layer setting for first layer left at 100%

    It's filament size is stipulated in s3d

    Yes have read temp on the um2

    Filament is being held on spool with iRoberts filament spool holder on bearings.

    I suspect I have a drive problem either it is feeder side or possible within the head Ptfe/spacer,

    IMG_0801.thumb.jpg.346030eef61ec2eee7cce99aac5ac32d.jpg

    I did not have an issue before I changed feeder/head and setting is s3d worked.

    Will strip head later today/tomorrow

    I do suspect it is an issue of filament being

     

    Hmm this is interesting.. is this the olsson block, a PTFE coupler and my tube? there seems to be a lot of room between the PTFE coupler and the hot end isolator. there should be around 1 or max 2mm..

    it seems yours has around 5 mm..

    if there is too much room between the block and the PTFE coupler, filament will get in between

     

    maybe there's an I2K insulator also? :)

     

    yeah I thought about that, but even with the I2K isolator there should not be such a big gap.. if he shaved of some of the tube (which he said he did) that might explain :) I'm afraid something might have gone wrong with the pressure or something else..

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    Posted (edited) · Simplify3D

     

     

     

    Yellow shark

    1st layer was printed

    60% speed

    Layer height 150%

    All other layer setting for first layer left at 100%

    It's filament size is stipulated in s3d

    Yes have read temp on the um2

    Filament is being held on spool with iRoberts filament spool holder on bearings.

    I suspect I have a drive problem either it is feeder side or possible within the head Ptfe/spacer,

    IMG_0801.thumb.jpg.346030eef61ec2eee7cce99aac5ac32d.jpg

    I did not have an issue before I changed feeder/head and setting is s3d worked.

    Will strip head later today/tomorrow

    I do suspect it is an issue of filament being

     

    Hmm this is interesting.. is this the olsson block, a PTFE coupler and my tube? there seems to be a lot of room between the PTFE coupler and the hot end isolator. there should be around 1 or max 2mm..

    it seems yours has around 5 mm..

    if there is too much room between the block and the PTFE coupler, filament will get in between

     

    maybe there's an I2K insulator also? :)

     

    yeah I thought about that, but even with the I2K isolator there should not be such a big gap.. if he shaved of some of the tube (which he said he did) that might explain :)I'm afraid something might have gone wrong with the pressure or something else..

     

    Yep, check mine of my UM2 (not my plus), it's almost the same distance... (I2K installed also)

    EQ3HTa3.png

    Edited by Guest
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    Yellow shark

    1st layer was printed

    60% speed

    Layer height 150%

    All other layer setting for first layer left at 100%

    It's filament size is stipulated in s3d

    Yes have read temp on the um2

    Filament is being held on spool with iRoberts filament spool holder on bearings.

    I suspect I have a drive problem either it is feeder side or possible within the head Ptfe/spacer,

    IMG_0801.thumb.jpg.346030eef61ec2eee7cce99aac5ac32d.jpg

    I did not have an issue before I changed feeder/head and setting is s3d worked.

    Will strip head later today/tomorrow

    I do suspect it is an issue of filament being

     

    Hmm this is interesting.. is this the olsson block, a PTFE coupler and my tube? there seems to be a lot of room between the PTFE coupler and the hot end isolator. there should be around 1 or max 2mm..

    it seems yours has around 5 mm..

    if there is too much room between the block and the PTFE coupler, filament will get in between

     

    maybe there's an I2K insulator also? :)

     

    yeah I thought about that, but even with the I2K isolator there should not be such a big gap.. if he shaved of some of the tube (which he said he did) that might explain :)I'm afraid something might have gone wrong with the pressure or something else..

     

    Yep, check mine of my UM2 (not my plus), it's almost the same distance... (I2K installed also)

    EQ3HTa3.png

     

    yeah that;s not good with a spring.. way too much pressure on the PTFE..

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    All

    Measured the distance 3.67 was going to strip the head last night but storms took power out will strip it today and post. But I see on the above its the same as mine (distance)

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    frederiekpascal

    is that an original steel coupler or is it a replacement from 3dsolex?????

    I have striped the head and it was clean on the outside (no leaking from threads

    5a33173caf610_AllClean.thumb.jpg.66f63d8e97f9bfa62d8aa0306f7c4d5d.jpg

    But I took the Ptfe out while there is no burning at all there is a slight bulge in the outer profile, it was awkward to picture, i placed a screwdriver blade at the point

    5a33173e2841a_ptfeandmark.thumb.jpg.7417bae56976ab2d466f8337bfc9f254.jpg

    also I removed the i2K and underneath that, was a small amount of PLA

    5a33173ddaca6_ptfeandi2kandcrap.thumb.jpg.1dcda72cac49d49bd19fa700ce414b20.jpg

    Now the ptfe is a tight fit into the steel coupler and it was fully down, while the hole going through the middle of them all, does not seem deformed, so do we think this is unrelated to my problem, or have I placed to much pressure on the ptfe? if I have, then the spring in yours frederiekpascal would be really heavy, if you have printed with yours it might be worth checking if yours has deformed like mine, and if so does it matter??

    Thoughts please do I rebuild it. if so whats the best way of going about it,, the Ptfe I removed is now a very tight fit,

    Also the distance Korneel was pointing out (3.67) all parts are the same lengths as original wondered if the olson block has a longer thread as I can see thats the only thing that would push everything up.

    5a33173caf610_AllClean.thumb.jpg.66f63d8e97f9bfa62d8aa0306f7c4d5d.jpg

    5a33173e2841a_ptfeandmark.thumb.jpg.7417bae56976ab2d466f8337bfc9f254.jpg

    5a33173ddaca6_ptfeandi2kandcrap.thumb.jpg.1dcda72cac49d49bd19fa700ce414b20.jpg

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    This is more and more offtopic :)

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    Posted (edited) · Simplify3D

    This is more and more offtopic :)

     

    so true, let's hope @SanderVg creates a dedicated S3D forum :D

    Edited by Guest
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    Ok understood I'll move it else where.

    Thanks

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    This is more and more offtopic :)

     

    so true, let's hope @SanderVg creates a dedicated S3D forum :D

     

    https://forum.simplify3d.com/

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    Posted (edited) · Simplify3D

    I haven't found their forum very useful yet.  I inquired about a profile for the heated bed upgrade and effectively got told to make my own.   Well, sure...how!   I guess I was being lazy, hoping such a profile already existed and some suggestions on how to do it.  

    I can't say my experience with S3D has been very good so far.  I've grown to like the current Cura release  :)

    Edited by Guest
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    This is more and more offtopic :)

    so true, let's hope @SanderVg creates a dedicated S3D forum :D

    https://forum.simplify3d.com/

    We all know that forum :p

    But a S3D here would be a lot cooler ;)

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    ok back on topic then.. I'm absolutely impressed with s3d.. worth every penny.

    the learning curve is steep.. but once you kinda understand it.. it makes sense..

    i get better quality and control as compared to Cura. especially some of the weird blobs on the sides are gone. yeah, i'm a fan.

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    @korneel, I agree.

    I like the option to just save your settings complete with the .stl included, gives you an easy way to go back and make changes.

    Also love the layer view.

    I also like setting the temperature in the slicer, think when you use different nozzle sizes this is the best workflow.

    @frederiekpascal what do you think about this, you have the UM2+ with the temperature changing based on nozzlesize? how does it work for you?

    I feel that with multiple nozzle sizes setting the temp in the slicer is more logical, as you also need other settings, like wall thickness etc, specific for the nozzle used, so you need to re slice anyhow if you want to print the same object with a different nozzle size.

    And last point, besides "new" cura simply not being ready yet, I REALLY don't like the new user experience/gui

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    @korneel, I agree.

    I like the option to just save your settings complete with the .stl included, gives you an easy way to go back and make changes.

    Also love the layer view.

    I also like setting the temperature in the slicer, think when you use different nozzle sizes this is the best workflow.

    @frederiekpascal what do you think about this, you have the UM2+ with the temperature changing based on nozzlesize? how does it work for you?

    I feel that with multiple nozzle sizes setting the temp in the slicer is more logical, as you also need other settings, like wall thickness etc, specific for the nozzle used, so you need to re slice anyhow if you want to print the same object with a different nozzle size.

    And last point, besides "new" cura simply not being ready yet, I REALLY don't like the new user experience/gui

     

    My Cura is configured with Gcode flavor "RepRap (Marlin/Sprinter)" and not Ultigcode. So I always have to set my temperatures manually. This is still the setting from when I was using Octoprint though... But I don't use Cura anymore, I have used it for 1 testprint with my plus and switched back to S3D after that.

    I'm a big fan of S3D to be honest, it was a huge steep learning curve for me. But @Neotko helped a lot. :)

    And if you check out the S3D forum, then you would know why I'm asking for a S3D forum here. ;)

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    @SandervG

    Maybe you can explain the implementation of setting temperature on the UM2+ a bit more?

    There's multiple lines in the material settings .txt file now, I assume being picked based on nozzle size set in the menu somewhere? Is it as simple as one line in the material file corresponds to one nozzle size?

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    @SandervG

    Maybe you can explain the implementation of setting temperature on the UM2+ a bit more?

    There's multiple lines in the material settings .txt file now, I assume being picked based on nozzle size set in the menu somewhere? Is it as simple as one line in the material file corresponds to one nozzle size?

     

    I was wondering the same thing, because the list does not correspond to the default "quick print settings" of Cura. (UM2+ printer selected)

    material.TXT

    [material]

    name=PLA

    temperature=210

    temperature_210

    temperature_195

    temperature_230

    temperature_240

    temperature_240

    bed_temperature=60

    fan_speed=100

    flow=100

    diameter=2.85

    And below are the temperatures that correspond to the default quick print Cura profiles on my plus, I tested them all.

    0.25 nozzle - High = 195°C (0.06 layer height / 20 mm/s print speed)

    0.4 nozzle - High = 210°C (0.06 layer height / 30 mm/s print speed)

    0.4 nozzle - Normal = 210°C (0.1 layer height / 30 mm/s print speed)

    0.4 nozzle - Fast = 210°C (0.15 layer height / 40mm/s print speed)

    0.6 nozzle - Normal = 230°C (0.15 layer height / 25 mm/s print speed)

    0.8 nozzle - Fast = 240°C (0.2 layer height / 20 mm/s print speed)

    cheers!

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