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Posted · Simplify3D

This is the default material.txt from my um2+

 

[material]name=PLAtemperature=210temperature_210temperature_195temperature_230temperature_240temperature_240bed_temperature=60fan_speed=100flow=100diameter=2.85[material]name=ABStemperature=260temperature_260temperature_260temperature_260temperature_260temperature_260bed_temperature=90fan_speed=100flow=107diameter=2.85[material]name=CPEtemperature=255temperature_255temperature_255temperature_255temperature_255temperature_255bed_temperature=60fan_speed=50flow=100diameter=2.85

 

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Posted · Simplify3D

Hmm 240 for pla.... I wonder when that will kick in... also remarkable that the pla sequence is not just going up...

@nallath ?

 

I dont quite know what you mean by this..

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Posted · Simplify3D

 

Hmm 240 for pla.... I wonder when that will kick in... also remarkable that the pla sequence is not just going up...

@nallath ?

 

I dont quite know what you mean by this..

 

I think @UltiArjan is referring to the fact that the other temps stay the same in all options, but the PLA temp goes from 210-210-195 and then up.. so same same, down, up..

I am assuming it has everything to do with the firmware that it is using, where you select the material and the nozzle size.. i suppose you would be able to select a nozzle size and a temp would fit to that.. so it might be default nozze, then 0.4, 0.25, 0.6 0.8 .

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Posted · Simplify3D

Yeah indeed, and still wondering when you would ever use 240c for PLA.... so would like to see a table of when these different temps kick in (did not look into the firmware but I assume it should not be to hard to find out...)

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Posted · Simplify3D

Yeah indeed, and still wondering when you would ever use 240c for PLA.... so would like to see a table of when these different temps kick in (did not look into the firmware but I assume it should not be to hard to find out...)

 

well, remember, that with the new PT100, this sorta compares to around 230 for the existing machines.. and if you are using a .8 nozzle at 50mm/sec (which is something the new feeder can do!) i would not be that far from that temperature..

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Posted · Simplify3D

Just did 7 & 11 hour prints at 45 mm/s, 0.8 nozzle, own feeder, at 220c .... I've been experimenting so much I have no idea if my PT100 is from E3D-online, 3Dsolex or Ultimaker :)

I do have the 35W heater from 3Dsolex.com

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Posted · Simplify3D

Yeah indeed, and still wondering when you would ever use 240c for PLA.... so would like to see a table of when these different temps kick in (did not look into the firmware but I assume it should not be to hard to find out...)

 

With ordinary PLA you wouldn't. If using a 0.4 nozzle then really rarely should you need to go above 210. Colorfabb have an advised max temp of 220 for their ordinary PLAs

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Posted · Simplify3D

hi chaps Im having a problem it looks like your last comments bear my situation.

Im printing bonzfill and usually 210 (labern) uses I started out hear and could not get the print to flow seal ect. Im now printing at 236 and a flow of 220. Is this normal my feeder is clicking at about every 10sec NOT slipping motor slipping I presume because of the build up of pressure in OB. Im using a .40 Noz from 3d solex one of his first. any thought advise please.

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Posted · Simplify3D

Well I would taker a visit to the Colorfabb site and start with their specifications; which include flow at 0-10% At 220 you are way way way over.

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Posted · Simplify3D

Yellowshark

yep I thought I was, hence the question. don't really understand where I am going wrong, s3d had the flow at 1.30 this didn't work i use 1.0 / 1.10 for normal PLA which workes. so I upped the temp and flow on the um2 till it closed the layers and looked better this is where I ended up fans full temp 240 flow 200, as I said I know it not right…

I presumed 100% is full flow? but whats 0-10% could you explain, sorry!!!

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Posted · Simplify3D

Yellowshark

yep I thought I was, hence the question. don't really understand where I am going wrong, s3d had the flow at 1.30 this didn't work i use  1.0 / 1.10  for normal PLA which workes. so I upped the temp and flow on the um2 till it closed the layers and looked better this is where I ended up fans full temp 240 flow 200, as I said I know it not right…

I presumed 100% is full flow? but whats 0-10% could you explain, sorry!!!

 

did you check your PTFE?

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Posted · Simplify3D

hi chaps Im having a problem it looks like your last comments bear my situation.

Im printing bonzfill and usually 210 (labern) uses I started out hear and could not get the print to flow seal ect. Im now printing at 236 and a flow of 220. Is this normal my feeder is clicking at about every 10sec NOT slipping motor slipping I presume because of the build up of pressure in OB. Im using a .40 Noz from 3d solex one of his first. any thought advise please.

 

so a flow of 220 is absolutely not good ;)

you should be fine with 100, in some cases the flow has been increased to 106 if you have a material that can flow well when heated, such as ABS. bronzefill does not flow well or spread out so keep it at 100..

if you have issues with the flow, check out the material path first.

you have an Olsson Block, so gently screw out the nozzle, take out the Bowden tube from the top of the head and (when cold!) take a piece of filament a gently push this through the head. if you feel any resistance, so will your filament.. most likely it's the PTFE coupler..

the ticking sound you hear is the feeder motor not able to make it's rotation. it's just as bad as grinding since it will "hammer" on the filament, starting to dig it's way in.. you should not be hearing that..

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Posted · Simplify3D

At some points you want 240 for PLA; If you use a large nozzle / high speed. If the flow is higher, the material has less time to be heated. In order to get the same temp at the tip of the nozzle, you need to increase the temp of the heater.

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Posted · Simplify3D

At some points you want 240 for PLA; If you use a large nozzle / high speed. If the flow is higher, the material has less time to be heated. In order to get the same temp at the tip of the nozzle, you need to increase the temp of the heater.

 

I don't think so - I ran a .8 nozzle at 60mm/s with .300 layers and used 215 without trying to go lower temp.. I suppose if you were using 1.6 nozzle at 140mm/s you might need to.

 

All comments relate to normal PLA

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Posted · Simplify3D

Yellow shark

Thank you for clarifying the 0% that's was certainly confusing me.

The Ptfe coupler is relatively new 3dsolex it also has the i2k insulator on as well as the spacer (Korneels)

I will check the coupler exactly what am I looking for ? (Burning deformity.)

I will also check the Bowden ?

One thing though since I changed to the Ob block and my Ptfe ect when I used to set my prints off I never had to bother priming the head I now advance the material till there is a steady output, then re home head, then start print.

But when I advance the material it feels as though it could stick if I'm not carful moving the material. I wondered if the internal profile of the Ptfe or i2k could cause a binding effect.

All I know is I was using normal PLA swapped it for Bronze and immediately had issues with feeder slipping and under extrusion.

Sorry for the long drawn out description.

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Posted · Simplify3D

can you try starting a new print with PLA and see if the machine drops a nice icecone before printing on the front left side?

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Posted · Simplify3D

Korneels

Thanks for the prompt reply, I will try later by swapping the material I'll prime the head as above do a print then do another print without the priming sequence and see what happens..

Thanks

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Posted · Simplify3D

honestly, that's simply the best way to test your entire feeding/printing system. if the little ice cream cone is not there, you have a problem..

 

example at 8:50

your icecone can be larger or smaller depending on how much the filament has retracted, but if it does not come out as a cone you have a probleem with the feeder, ptfe or nozzle..

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Posted · Simplify3D

Korneel

Taken the Bronzefill out checked the Bowden and pushed filament up through the feeder and through the Ob (making sure it was cleaned first) it passed through them all with a little push at the Ob end.

I placed a new .40 nozzle from 3dSolex in. The design

http://3dsolex.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/Photo-01.03.15-22.19.32-300x300.jpg

I started to print at 195 and again clicking started I up temp to 200 and clicking stopped (hurrah).

I then did another print (without priming) but very little cone came out if at all my start up script s3d is

G28 ; Home all axes

G1 F3000 X20 Y20 Z20 ; Bring extruder to the front slowly

G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length

G1 F150 E30 ; purge nozzle with 30mm of filament

G1 F1800 X25 Y25 Z10

G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length again

G1 F255 E0.25 ; purge the extruded length 0.25

My ending script is

G1 E-5 F2500 ; Retract

G1 F2000 Z100

G28 X0 ; home the X-axis

M104 S0 ; turn off heaters

M140 S0 ; turn off bed

M84 ; disable motors

so I was working on 25mm (approx.) should have came out

my print started at 200 but clicking, again I reduced fans down to 70% and all was fine,, it is the first time I have used these nozzles..

a bit lost now do I use this nozzle and try the Bronzefille again

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Posted · Simplify3D

Hi Bob a couple of things. Firstly can you advise what your filament resolution and print speed were. When you refer to priming and easy to slip, do you mean it is slipping because the pressure from the drive wheel is not enough or clicking because the teeth are biting into the filament but the filament is stuck so the teeth are clicking out of the filament as the wheel goes around. I think the latter would be the case only if there are teeth marks in the filament - which is what I have always understood grinding to be associated with.

Also "I started to print at 195 and again clicking started ". Would I be right in assuming that the clicking starts at some point after layer 1 has been printed? If not what is your layer 1 print speed.

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