I just put a slight bend in mine in the area where it touches so it would fit. now it works good.
Sounds to be a good workaround, thanks!
I just put a slight bend in mine in the area where it touches so it would fit. now it works good.
Sounds to be a good workaround, thanks!
I don't know if there are slight variations in the metal fan shrouds coming mounted on UM2s, but at least with mine the block just wouldn't fit without touching the metal.
Just remember on the old version of the metal part it did just fit. On the latest version um recently added an extra lip of metal at the back that you need to bend out a little (the side where the cables come out the block)
Very simple to do.
Edited by GuestThanks @ultiarjan
Just placed an order on 3dsolex.com, hope will receive it soon:)
Is it (change the fan shroud) must if I want to use Olsson block kit and I2K insulator?
No, it's an option but not needed, the metal one of UM2 will work fine.
People change it because the UM2 version is not symetrical, as it was designed for dual extruders, which we now know will not happen on the UM2, so a symmetrical version in metal available from UM2 would still be very nice (@SandervG)
I know, so far I haven't been able to get everyone on board. There are other priorities.
Push hard inward on the orange part - that slot fits a screwdriver nicely and then push on the screwdriver while inserting or removing wires.
Push hard inward on the orange part - that slot fits a screwdriver nicely and then push on the screwdriver while inserting or removing wires.
Thanks gr5!
I want to test the heater and the temperature sensor, so "heat up the nozzle" when the heater is not in the block.
Then the heater burned...
Is this because the bad quality of the heater, or I shouldn't do this?
Thanks.
I want to test the heater and the temperature sensor, so "heat up the nozzle" when the heater is not in the block.
Then the heater burned...
Is this because the bad quality of the heater, or I shouldn't do this?
You shouldn't do that. When the heater isn't in the block with the sensor, there's no way to monitor the temperature of the heater, so it will keep heating up until it burns.
You shouldn't do that. When the heater isn't in the block with the sensor, there's no way to monitor the temperature of the heater, so it will keep heating up until it burns.
Thanks.
I do that because this tutorial tells to do that...
http://www.ideato3d.be/actualites/install-the-olsson-block-on-your-ultimaker-2/
>>>>>>>>>><<<<<<<<<<<
To check that the temp sensor is still working, turn the printer on, go to the Maintenance Menu and select Heatup Nozzle.
You will see something like this:
Take the sensor between two fingers and the temperature should raise
Maybe something got lost in translation from French to English?
How do you know the heater does not work?
If it is not controlled by a temperature logic, it will fry in seconds..
It needs to get rid of 25-40Watt energy from a tiny little cartridge,
so must be connected with something conducting the heat well, like
brass, aluminium, etc
You can OHM it and see if there is connection, or install it and see if it heats up.
To check that the temp sensor is still working, turn the printer on, go to the Maintenance Menu and select Heatup Nozzle.
You will see something like this:
Take the sensor between two fingers and the temperature should raise
There should be a warning there, like "Scroll down to HEATUP NOZZLE but do NOT select it".
Just having the selector on the "Heatup Nozzle" option without selecting it means you can read the temperature sensor signal without starting the heater.
You can then test the sensor by heating it with your fingers.
But you cannot test the heater with your fingers...
-you can test your fingers with your heater.... once!
Frank, contact me, Ill help you...
There should be a warning there, like "Scroll down to HEATUP NOZZLE but do NOT select it".
Just having the selector on the "Heatup Nozzle" option without selecting it means you can read the temperature sensor signal without starting the heater.
You can then test the sensor by heating it with your fingers.
Got it.
So I have misunderstood the meaning, due to my poor English.
Thanks!
You shouldn't do that. When the heater isn't in the block with the sensor, there's no way to monitor the temperature of the heater, so it will keep heating up until it burns.
Another question:
Does it means that if the sensor is broken, the printer will burn even if the heater is in the block?
I' really worry about this...
Make sure you have the latest UM2 firmware. There is a safety shut-off built into Ultimaker2Marlin since last December iirc which switches the heater cartridge off if the temp sensor doesn't react in a proper way. However, the values there correspond to the standard 25W heater, maybe they have to be adjusted for a 35W heater.
Make sure you have the latest UM2 firmware. There is a safety shut-off built into Ultimaker2Marlin since last December iirc which switches the heater cartridge off if the temp sensor doesn't react in a proper way. However, the values there correspond to the standard 25W heater, maybe they have to be adjusted for a 35W heater.
Thanks, if it need to be adjusted for a 35W heater, I won't use a 35W heater..
You shouldn't do that. When the heater isn't in the block with the sensor, there's no way to monitor the temperature of the heater, so it will keep heating up until it burns.
Thanks.
I do that because this tutorial tells to do that...
http://www.ideato3d.be/actualites/install-the-olsson-block-on-your-ultimaker-2/
>>>>>>>>>><<<<<<<<<<<
To check that the temp sensor is still working, turn the printer on, go to the Maintenance Menu and select Heatup Nozzle.
You will see something like this:
Take the sensor between two fingers and the temperature should raise
This is to test the temp sensor, not the heater, i don't think i mention anywhere in my tutorial about changing the heat cartridge.
This is to test the temp sensor, not the heater, i don't think i mention anywhere in my tutorial about changing the heat cartridge.
You are right! It's my bad!
But it's nothing to do with changing heater.
I just want to verify that the sensor is working.
So I turned on "heat up nozzle" as you said "select Heatup Nozzle"
I misunderstood the *select*...
I will add a warning to avoid it happening to others, i never thought that this could happen...
@Lofrank: Regardless what is in turorials in web sites, I want you to heat nozzle, then gently turn the steelcoupler by twisting the little holes to the left so that the block comes up as high as possible. This to avoid the block touching the fan shroud.
If you do not heat the nozzle, you risk crashing the steel coupler with the little holes, the one I am asking you to turn, and it is a fragile expensive little thing. ( It has to be thin and fragile so it will not condct heat well, at the same time be strong, so it is very thin).
I will issue an implementation order about it too.
I will add a warning to avoid it happening to others, i never thought that this could happen...
I don't think I'm the stupidest, so the warning should be useful:)
Thanks.
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Lofrank 1
Thanks jens, so I have to prepare for the worst.
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