SandervG

I think the selected dimensions are too small for Cura to interpret as a printable file? Besides that, we are dealing with a plastic extrusion machine and I think this is too small to 3D print with any FDM machine.

Hi Labern, it shouldn't be 19,8mm but 16.8mm. Are you sure you measured it correctly or maybe made a typo? I put another reference of what I mean in this post:

For the Ultimaker Original, which is similar size (but different material) there is a handle that can be mounted to the frame. A case similar to the Ultimaker 2 Go might be rather bulky since the Ultimaker 2 is bigger and heavier. A weird idea I just had, with an even weirder example for reference, could be something like this? (just thinking out loud, dunno if this would be super inconvenient or instable..)

Hi @Alexrp92, thank you for your post and welcome to the forums! The motors are capable of, I believe, 12micron, and the standard nozzle is 0.4mm nozzle. So you would have to change your nozzle to a smaller nozzle if you want to print something at 100 micron in X and Y. Why can't you achieve this goal so far? Have you made some test prints that did not come out well?

It is all part of the Ultimaker Exhibition We are just trying some things to see how they work .. you think a T-rex is overdoing it a little bit..? Here is the story in case you missed it!

Hi @Riccardo18, thank you for your post. I'm sure we will be able to help, and I think it was also a good call to get in touch with the professional support we have set up for you. I'm pretty sure they will also be able to help you out! Just make sure, if they get around to find the answer faster, to share it with us for future readers Now, if I understand correctly, your Extruder motor stopped working all of the sudden. Could you verify whether you have an Ultimaker Original, Ultimaker Original+ or an Ultimaker Original which is upgraded with a heated bed? The electronics are different on each so that is important information. I am guessing you have the regular Ultimaker Original, if not the below information is useless It can have a variety of reasons, the most common are the motor itself broke, the stepper driver or the electronics. You tested if the motor broke by connecting it to the X-stepper driver and it worked, correct? This could be easily tested by connecting your E-motor to the X-motor port on your pcb. If you want to test a motor on the E-motor port; make sure to heat up your head. This may seem irrelevant, but in the firmware your printhead is protected that unless it is heated, you can not move filament. So even though you will command it to move, it won't if your printhead is cold. So that leaves us with either the stepper driver or the pcb. I understand you bought a new stepperdriver. Did you buy a similar one as that was initially installed on the pcb? Did you try to swap the E-motor stepperdriver with the X axis stepper driver? If the X axis doesn't work, with the E-stepper driver, it is clear that the stepper driver is to blame. If the X-axis works normally, most likely your pcb is defective. In that case I would get in touch with your reseller and find a solution. Let me know if you have passed all these steps and if you came to a similar conclusion or if you have any further questions! Good luck!!

Very glossy indeed! How is the top of the head, is the top thick enough to cross the gap with 0% infil without creating gaps?

Even with a best answer the thread stays open, so feel free to reward and select the best answer. In fact, if it would appear again, to you or a different user, being notified about what helped you in first instance is probably most appreciated

Haven't tried it yet.. but it looks like everything is 1.75mm

I don't think it should grind when there is not enough tension but maybe during the pictures you made something right that was wrong.. In theory I could imagine that if the tension was far too low, the knurled wheel would move, but the teeth would not be in deep enough to get a grip and push the filament up, and therefor it just moves past the filament leaving some scratches, or with the littlest of resistance it looses its grip. But that is in theory

How do proper cleaning and lubrication z axis then? You can find multiple tips on how to do maintenance on your Ultimaker on this page and this one. Good luck! Edit; and didn't you just answer to how to to proper clean and lubricate it..?

Hi All, We do our best to make sure your Ultimaker leaves our warehouse fully calibrated and they remain so until you unbox it and start your first print. We trust DHL and FedEx care for your package the same way... -.-' ... but we have learned that regardless of our careful calibration and special packaging your precious Ultimakers do not always arrive in mint condition.. Alternatively, when you have disassembled or cleaned your printhead you need to put it back together again too. Ideally, as close as possible to how it left our warehouse. One of the parts we carefully calibrate on the Ultimaker 2+ is obviously the printhead. It is a rather delicate part of your Ultimaker. To help you get your Ultimaker 2+ in its best shape, we wanted to share this spacer with you. 3D Print this spacer, and place it in your printhead to determine the ideal space that influences the tension on your TFM coupler and hot end. Once placed, tighten the 4 thumbscrews accordingly until this spacer is clamped in the head. IMPORTANT. - The small part in this spacer, the part that fits in your printhead, needs to be 16,8mm. Make sure to measure this part before you apply it in your calibration run. - Tighter is not better. It is 16,8mm for a reason. When tightening the 4 thumbscrews do not overtighten them. With most materials, but especially PLA, it can deform under the pressure if you tighten it too much. This will undermine the function of this spacer. Therefore, make sure it is tight, but stop tightening when the spacer is clamped in your printhead. This is a tool to help you calibrate your Ultimaker 2+. Use it wisely. Download the Ultimaker 2+ printhead spacer here.

Hi @Shinao, you may want to check the bottom of your coupler, instead of the top. It receives some pressure from the top due to the spring, but the heat is coming from the bottom and that is where you should see the degradation. Your filament definitely does not look good. Have you changed the tension on your feeder? Can you post some photo's of your Atomic Method results? To be sure, do you have an UM2 or UM2+?

Thanks for sharing! I know this is more than just a simple 21grams cube. Perhaps you can elaborate on the concept on why you made it and why it is 21 grams I'm sure that creates some more context around your project

As far as I know there should not be a general delay in uploading an image and showing up in your album. I am still waiting for a confirmation from our dev's.

Certainly! General bug fixes but also some improvements. Recently I posted an update about the education platform, direct messages improvement, some bug fixes, new smileys and an improvement on the leaderboard.

I would also probably suggest to clean the threaded Z-rod!

Hi Owen, is it possible that you can create a short screencase of this and send like a dropbox link in a DM to me? (Or whatever you prefer?) That might help our developers too. Thank you for your help!

thanks guys for the feedback! Our team is still working on fixing the notifications and I have forwarded your notes too. This must help in pinpointing the exact and complete cause of these bugs faster. Thank you for contributing to the solution

hmm thank you for sharing. It is the first time I hear it. What did happen to me in the past was that it did not load all the uploaded images in my album unless I scrolled to the bottom really fast.. But that was fixed 2 iterations ago. I'll ask if there indeed is a delay and when this occurs.

'I was blown away'. Pun intended? Cool! I always wondered how such a grenade worked in airsoft. Does a regular hand-grenade work in a similar way or does that not exist in air soft? Stupid question, are you suppose to clean up all the bb's afterwards or how do you prevent to an area to be completely filled up with bb's if there are a couple of grenades in a battle?

Nice! Feel free to share what you make, but a grenade launcher is not something we would very easily feature How do grenades work in airsoft? Do they actually 'explode'?

Looks good! But there seems to be some under extrusion on the big owls chest. What temperature did you print it with?

Don't keep us in suspense... did you find what you were looking for?

Thanks for sharing all of your feedback guys! It is really valuable!