SandervG

Well, spamming is never a good idea, and lets all just try to stay on topic If you are interested to learn how we behave on our forums, here is a link to our house rules. Let me know if you have any further questions.

Hopefully you'll be able to get your hands on one Why did they block you?

That sounds like a challenge! Do you already have some kind of plan or strategy? What do you mean by filaments that are easy to smooth layers, and get them showing? (smoothing and get layers showing sound like two opposites to me). For smoothing and strength you could consider ABS and use acetone to make it smooth. Or use a different material and just sand it down.

Hi Alex, wow congratulations on the video!! And of course the model that you made. It looks amazing! You mention the LED's are a bit weak, could you share which ones you have and do you know which might be better? Anything else you ran into that could help anyone who might consider making this print too? The amount of work that went in it is insane!! What happens with all the models that you have made? Do you have like a gallery where they are on display? Do you go to events, like comic con or something? Thanks for sharing this with us!

I haven't heard of them yet, but it looks like the pictures of their filaments are just renderings so that probably isn't a good start.. Besides that, I don't really see any specific information. I also don't find any reviews online.

Hi Katieb, Thank you for your post. I am not entirely sure I understand what you mean. Do you want to be able to scale it up and down, but thave the 'wall / brim' remain the same in size? That is certainly doable, but just not in Cura. You would have to do this in your CAD modeling software.

Ninjaflex by itself is also more stringy/goo-ish, so it could also be that the filament itself is more inclined to leave blobs than other filaments.

Hi Ronan, thank you for your post. Do you have a picture of what your retraction blobs look like? It could be your retraction speed? Which version of Cura are you using?

I didn't know this. .. that is amazing! How does it work?

Could it be that there is just friction in between the parts? PLA on PLA has quite a high friction. Sanding it down and / or applying some WD40 or sewing machine oil may make all the difference in the world. Alternatively, download and print a model like this one and make sure your X and Y axis are calibrated correctly, like a perfect + Good luck!

I was also thinking about a mold.. I figured it also sounded familiar (@Cloakfiend, for you too maybe?) Here is an older post about it.

Hi @Jtghoops13, Generally speaking, thinner layers will provide higher quality prints. However, there is much more to take into consideration. Thin layers is just thin layers, if there are layers missing or misaligned your print / surface still doesn't look good. The way a 3D printer is designed, build and calibrated has a big role in this. Besides that, your printing profile is important too. Like speed and temperature. Which are also being influenced by the size and complexity of your model. How big are the faces you are trying to print? Could you upload some of the prints you have made? What is it that you want to improve specifically?

Hi @Twilde, welcome to the forums! Do you have some pictures from what your first layers look like? Both successful and unsuccessful? Probably stating the obvious here, but have you releveled your bed after the upgrade? Because it has the Olsson block installed, it can be that the nozzle is at a slightly different height than it was before. Have you also cleaned it real good with hot water and even alcohol? Besides that, it shouldn't really affect the bed adhesion. The PT100 in your printhead has changed, so your previous 210ºC might be different from your current reading. How does the rest of your print look like? OK, or under extruded? If the rest doesn't look as good either, you could also try to up the temperature by 5/10ºC.

I especially like how we are OK with getting a splinter in our finger from wood, cause it is wood. That is what is suppose to happen. It is part of wood. But we are still struggling to look past the layers in a 3D print, because plastic objects are injection molded in our minds. Hopefully, one day we will appreciate 3D printing for what it is, with its layers, big or small, and all the other great that comes with it.

The support seems to be under extruded, but still functional so maybe not a real problem but not as it was intended. Maybe the support is printed too fast?

Wow, will definitely be keeping an eye out for the progress. Will you share it here?

Hi @KnarlyNick, Welcome to the forums! Usually when your circles are not round this means that one, or both of your short belts are not tight enough. You can tighten them by loosening the 4 screws that hold the X or Y motor in its place, push it down as far as you can, and tighten them again. If you do this for both X and Y motor, you should see much rounder cylinders

What about just ABS?

Hi Kim, Thank you for your reply. Could you add another video which perhaps shows a little bit longer how your feeder behaves? Did you disassemble the feeder, and put it back together? Are you sure the spring in your feeder is put back correctly? Have you tried increasing the tension on your feeder?

Reminds me of an old blog, which I have always really liked and helped me create a different frame of referencec.

True.

Hi @Aikokami, Welcome to the community! Sounds like a great time to start sipping your coffee. Ive seen some posts on facebook and twitter of people printing pokemon and hide them on popular spots where people go and find pokemon. Thought that was pretty cool Enjoy your morning coffee, and your pikachu! (I hope it will be yellow!)

Is this what you mean?

@IRobertI, even when a layershift is this intense all of the sudden, but continues normally after a layer or two?

In theory yes, but afaik that is more likely to happen to an Ultimaker Original, and further up in a print, when more heat can be stored. Maybe I didn't explain it clearly, I don't think the end stop was physically triggered, but if a pulley is rubbing through the wire it could trigger a false alarm. You could try to tilt your Ultimaker a little bit, maybe even put a fan underneath and do a couple of more prints. If the end stop wire is damaged it should probably surface again sometimes in the next few prints. If it doesn't maybe it was overheating (but I don't think so..)