SandervG

Hi @Pablo0515, thank you for your message and welcome to the community Well, in any case you have bought a great reliable 3D printer, the Ultimaker 2+, with a superb track record. So in no way have you made a mistake in buying it.Of course, I understand your concern. First of all, you should ask yourself if the Ultimaker 2+ offers you what you want from a 3D printer, for what you are going to use it for. If it is, you should feel safe and happy with your purchase. If you are not sure or if you can not resist the urge of first wanting to know what will be launched on October 18th, you should have the flexibility with your reseller to cancel/return your order before you have opened it after delivery. (Or maybe you can even cancel the order before they ship it out). That way, you will have all information presented and you can make an educated decision on which machine you get. But in any case, the Ultimaker 2+ will remain to be an excellent 3D printer that should offer you lots of joy and innovation. In regard of the advice you received, offering a feature like dual extrusion does not automatically place one machine above the other, if that is a worry of yours. There are different ways to do this and they influence the user experience in a different way (not all are equally reliable). For example, one can be more suited for dual color, others for dual material. And of course different ways on how to implement it, with different pros and cons. It has proven to be a difficult feature. I wouldn't say you got bad advice and I am pretty sure we'll be able to sort it out for you. Depending on what you want, after reading the above Feel free to contact your reseller and they should support you in which path you prefer to take. Good luck! ps; I will remove your phone number from your message to protect your privacy. Just in case.

Thank you for reporting! It has been communicated to the dev's and will be fixed asap. Our apologies for the inconvenience.

I just have one bell, but the red (or blue) circle doesn't have the amount of notifications showing yet. That will be added very shortly.

Hi Wisar, thank you for your message and sharing your thoughts. You certainly have a point in saying that the timing might not be ideal. At any given moment of the day users interact on our platform so timing is never really good for that matter. Due to planning and time restraints we can not permit ourselves the flexibility to fully schedule this maintenance to, for example, the weekends alone. What maintenance that could be done during the weekend / behind the scenes has already carefully been executed. We'll try to make it swift but it would be safe to assume it will take most of the (working) day tomorrow. Hopefully, you will agree with me when we are all back online that it was worth the wait

Hi @Sinner, thank you for your reply. I'm sorry to hear you are in need of support and haven't received the help yet which you desire. I would be happy to help you or if necessary, get you in the proper direction of where you can find the help you need. Our customers have always been, and will always be the center point for all we do here at Ultimaker. Our apologies if you have experienced this differently up until this date. If you could send me a direct message (click on my name, go to my profile and select send message) and share with me some details like when and where you bought your Ultimaker, what channels you have tried so far and what your problem is that will help me determine what the best next step would be. Depending on the specific nature of your issue, I will make sure you get the help you need. Once again, our apologies for the inconvenience so far.

@Neotko, I am pretty sure you know this

Dear friends, Due to maintenance and updates on our website the forum will be down tomorrow from 9am CEST until approximately the end of the day. We will do our best to keep it as short as possible. Our sincere apologies for the inconvenience. When in need for support our partners and their dedicated support teams are ready to help and we will also be available for you through our twitter and facebook accounts. When back online we will make sure to send out a notification through twitter. Make sure to follow us if you want to stay up to date. Have a good day!

Hi Geert, Thank you for your elaborated explanation, it is much clearer what you mean now and I have learned something new Depending on what type of models you have, would annealing your model upside down in an over help battle sagging? By closing of the printer quite high temperatures can be reached, but it may take some time. I think you may have spoken to Steve at the time. I remember he was conducting such tests. I can imagine that besides the uneven cooling of the fans the position on the bed alters the draft it may receive from the outside. I think the bed is more or less equally heated, but it is easier to loose some heat near the edges than in the center. Printing with a door should probably make all prints more consistent.

Hi Snipper, Thank you for your reply. I removed the view sample you added, because it was a broken link. If you copy the embed link and paste it here, it should automatically open the preview like this: (just an example print) Well, if you are looking for materials with specific abilities, you should also check out our range of filaments. Besides the regular PLA and ABS, we also offer Nylon and PC. Depending on what you need exactly they could be interesting to explore. There are specification sheets available if you want. I happen to also have a reel of PET at home from ReFil, but I haven't had the opportunity to use it yet. I would actually advice to start with the regular 0.4mm nozzle. Especially if you just start 3D Printing. The 0.25mm nozzle requires a different profile, because a smaller nozzle will be able of doing less volume, which influences your settings. Most advice you will find will refer to 0.4mm nozzle. Plus, it is a little bit more forgiving. In layerthickness, I would also suggest to go for 0.06 if you want a really high surface quality. You can also achieve this with the 0.4mm nozzle. On the naked eye it is really difficult to tell the difference between, for example, 0.04 and 0.06 while it adds time and complexity. (the finer the layers, the more accurate your settings need to be). The 0.25mm nozzle is particularly interesting if you want to print small intricate parts, not perse in a high resolution in Z. Good luck!

Hi @Snipper, welcome to the forums! Happened to read your description on your profile and saw you were working on RC airplanes. Cool! Have you already printed some parts? Even took it out for a flight maybe? Where did you get the PET? Does the supplier provide any information for your print-settings? Alternatively, perhaps this thread might give you some insights. Good luck!

Hi Geert, thank you for your post. Great that you are sharing ideas, that is what everything starts with! I can't say I heard about this technique before, so while reading I had some questions. If I understand it correctly, the idea is among others to reduce warping, right? Warping that occurred during the print? I was wondering if that wouldn't require any physical force to 'deform' your model back in its original shape? And wouldn't the entire model get soft and potentially loose some of its dimensional accuracy? I think not being able to use your Ultimaker for a few hours is an appealing solution to many users, except if it indeed solves some problems and you don't have a regular over available. Could you explain the affect on uneven cooling and how that affects the strength of your print? Does it result in unequal (and bad?) layer-adhesion? And can this be fixed afterwards by this method? Curious to hear your thoughts on this!

Ok, I think we kinda have established it is a genuine Ultimaker 2+ What your Y off-set? Care to share some photo's of what it looks like in your print? Does your Ultimaker self behaves differently? Let us know and I am pretty sure we can help with that as well

Hi @Jdec, Thank you for your post and welcome to the forums! I'm sorry to hear you are experiencing some difficulties with your Ultimaker 2 Go, but I am pretty sure we'll be able to solve it It looks indeed as if the end-stop that controls the left-right movement works, as it stops as it should when reaching the corner. Although the end-stop that should step in when it reaches the front side of the frame seems not to be working. It could be because there is something wrong with the wire, it got unplugged or it did not get triggered to begin with. The latter is the easiest to check. If you would move your printhead to the top right corner and press home, it should move to the front left corner to home, just like in your video. If you would grab a pen and press the end stop manually, does this influence the motion of the printhead? If it does nothing at all, it got either unplugged or the wire broke. If it does move, you should try to gently bend the end stop so the rod triggers the lever, before it hits the frame. If it doesn't, check out the electronics and see if the end-stop is plugged in accordingly. If it isn't, plug it in and try the above again. If it is also plugged in correctly, there is a chance there is something wrong with the cable. But this is not likely. Let us know what comes out of your testing, and we can move forward Good luck!

When you are feeding the filament, could you push up the lever so you can manually feed it in? Does it feel like the filament gets stuck on an edge or something? Could you apply more force? When you see it goes in the printhead, at the moment when it stops does it looks like to be in the nozzle, or around the TFM coupler for example? How tight are your 4 thumbscrews? Could it be that they are too tight and deform the head so the path of the filament is not perfectly straight down? Alternatively, are you sure the other filament is also PLA?

Hi @Cloakfiend, thank you for the video! The model/print is SUPER! I can't believe I hear you say a couple of times it is not amazing I wanted to suggest to also update your first post in case people don't want to read all 16 pages but I see it is already on there. Thanks for sharing how you do things. I definitely want to give this a try, and I would be curious to find out if people use this technique what their experiences are, and what their prints end up looking like. How long did the entire process take, since there are a few fast-forwards in this 8min video?

Thank you for your reply. Good to hear there were no signs of under extrusion. Sounds like the set-up should work. Could you explain step by step how you swap filament, and precisely what you do when feeding the new filament in? How does your Ultimaker behave? Is it priming before you click OK? What happens when you leave it in after feeding the filament, and go to maintenance and move material?

Hi Andy, Thank you for your post and welcome to the community Besides being able to extrude some plastic, would you say you made a successful print? And did you have to tighten the spring again, after the filament swap? If you are unsure about the quality of your prints, you could upload some photo's of your prints. That would be of much help diagnosing your Ultimaker. What exactly your issue is, is still kinda unclear to me from your post. About the spool holder, since the development of dual extrusion was stopped there was no need for the bigger spool holder (fitting 2 reels). The smaller the full dimensions of the machine, the more spaces it would fit in. And it allows for less movement of the reel or filament wrapping around the spool holder. If you want a bigger one, I would indeed recommend to print a bigger reel holder.

What Tommy said. But based on interpretation and some assumptions, I think you mean your fanshroud is touching your side panel. You could try to gently try to bend your fanshrouds down so they don't touch the bed anymore. You would be best of by uploading a picture of your printhead front-view to determine if this is indeed the case and so we can give you a reference of how far you should bend it. If you are going to bend it, watch out that you don't bend your rods.

Hi @Shaihem, welcome to the community and our forums! Could you tell us what 3D printer you are using? Do you have some screenshots of your settings? You say retraction is enabled, but based on the output my first thought would be that it isn't. Can you verify that while printing, the feeder is actually retracting the filament? (so there is a quick back and forth motion?)

It may also depend what you want to do. For single use it could work if you want to make something like a cookie cutter. Regardless of what material you use during 3D printing, the way a model is build (stacked layers) it is an excellent breeding place for germs etc, in between the layers, that would undermine any food-safe label. Also, usually a material is labeled food-safe before it is being fed through a 3D printer. It doesn't have to be the case, but it can be that if your print-profile is too hot, you burn your material in the hot end and ruin the food safe label.

Let me find out for you

Pretty cool. I like the concept. I don't like the loss in Y printing space though. Any idea why Ultimaker chose not to include dual extrusion out-of-the-box for the UM2+ ? What @Meduza said. It would have involved either very complex modifications to your trustworthy Ultimaker 2(+) with risks or such an expensive upgrade to cover all that, that would be unreasonable to charge. Hence, we did not feel comfortable unleashing that on our community and we felt the user experience was too important to mess around with.

Exactly! Just a couple of Atomics? What is it that they/you are using the Ultimaker for at your office?

It is hard to tell from the photo. It looks as what a pulley should look like. I think if it fits around your rod, and the diameter of the teethed part is similar that is most important.

Could you do the water test and see if it is obvious which side is which, and if it helps you diagnose what side to use and get better adhesion?