SandervG

Did you mark the checkbox and did you allow it to load before clicking download? You'll see a load-bar, when it is finished you can download Cura. It may be only 2 seconds, but I got the same message when I was impatient

Actually, @Gr5, I thought the arrow pointed at an edge/boarder coming out of the print, instead of an underextruded layer. Is it in- or outwards?

There should be a badge for that too This took an interesting angle. I'll see if we have a way to measure humidity in the office.

I think a pulley must be loose. They should hold it in place, can you push it back and tighten the pulleys? If the slack is bad it could affect your print, but there is some room for play. Usually this happens when you pick up the Ultimaker and (accidentally) grab the belt instead of the frame. This can also be fixed by loosening the pulley's first, allow the tension to equally divide over top and bottom (maybe you need to help it a little bit), and then tighten the pulleys again. Let me know how it goes

I have a suggestion.. I believe Cura decides which hot end you use (which is the first). The second hot end is only enabled as the second hot end. So it won't let you bypass the first one, when it is out of order for example, and only use the second nozzle. (The other way around would work, use only the first hot end). You could use an older version of Cura (and the accommodating firmware) but unfortunately I am not exactly sure which one you need.

Hi Alonso, thank you for your post. How big is your print? If your print is already close to the edges of the buildplate, there may not be enough room to add the brim. Do you have some pictures of your (failed) prints?

Yes, if you open the g-code in a text editor you can count the E steps up onto where this happens. You have to measure on your print where this happens too. Could you make the file available in a dropbox so we could check it out too, if we see anything out of the ordinary?

To answer your question, currently there is no way you can restart your print at the point where it failed. Like you already discovered, you can find the part of the g-code, but it is a bit finicky. When it kicks instantly, is that also the same time when the Ultimaker stops? I am inclined to think if there is even a short power cut it will stop. What do you think @UltiArjan? @gr5?

Hi @Yellowshark, thank you for your feedback. We understand the urgency of email notifications, it was one of the urgent pointers we digested. That is why we installed this during our last launch a few weeks ago. Perhaps you missed it. Anyway, if you go to your settings you can choose when and how frequently you want to receive an email Hope that helps! Did you know, @LePaul?

I am with Labern on this one If the nozzle stays on the same place all the time, the filament doesn't have time to cool down because the next hot layer is already being deployed, and the heath of the nozzle keeps melting whatever has cooled down already. If you don't want to print two, you could also print a small tower next to it.

Hi! It took me a few times to understand your suggestion, but I think I got it. Do you mean you want to have a similar structure as reinforced concrete? What would you use to fill up the holes? And I assume this done in a solid print? Do you think it is necessary? I already think 20%, maybe 50% already is very very strong.

It is definitely worth checking out version 15.04, the newer version is work in progress and in Beta, so results may vary. To prepare Cura for the future we had to rebuild it entirely, but we have opened it up for Beta so everyone can get involved who wants to, and contribute to what the final form of Cura is going to be. If you want to run a stable, reliable version to get more familiar with the hardware and the entire feel for 3D printing in general, I would recommend 15.04

Hi Mark, Welcome to the forum! I hope the assembly went smooth? 1) Are you sure it will make a big difference, since the frame is mostly open so ambient light will access the build volume too. But the Ultimaker Original+ has the same electronics as the Ultimaker 2, so you could use the same LED strip. I believe it is 24V (?) 2) The fan has an output of 5V. But on my Ultimaker Original (which is not a +) I have mounted two of the same fans on the same outlet and it was fine. 3) I actually don't really know a lot of people who have replaced the motor. Why would that be necessary? What I can think of is the feeder motor, but for the Ultimaker 2 there is a different stepper motor than the Ultimaker Original.

If I am not mistaken SLA also uses support structures and is submitted to gravity so that may not solve your problem? (it could be that it leaves less scars though). I think it goes for all 3D print techniques for this stage, that you kinda have to keep the 3D printing capabilities in mind during modeling, 'design for 3D printing', maybe you could also save some time on post processing if you try to work together with the capabilities of your tools? Do you have any pictures of your prints online? Sounds very interesting and it would be cool to see some of your work!

Great write up! Is your ABS working better now? What nozzle size do you use for ABS, I would think a bigger nozzle would work better? I didn't quite understand why you had to drill out the cooling block. Was there a brim/edge before?

I haven't seen him around in a while, but I know @Solid-Print-3D has both an Ultimaker and Formlabs. Depending on the shape of your model, you can achieve great surface finish with the Ultimaker. (Overhangs can be tricky). What kind of models are you making that they require so much post processing?

I always had doubts with the bowden tube tightner but they are based on theory and not my own experience. I always think that by clamping the bowden tube the ID can get even smaller or deformed which can create more friction i.e. under extrusion. Also, if you move to the front end of the build plate, or even the front right (as far away from the feeder as possible) the bowden tube has to stretch to its max and due to its size / height you can get a kink (is that a good word?) How does it work from your experience? Did you experience any of these things?

Hi! Welcome to the forum indeed You already have some good prints in your collection, looking forward to see what will come next!

Hi Agis, Could you be a little bit clearer about what you are trying to do? If it is a flat surface you could manually alter the gcode by having it start not at 0, but at a given height. Wouldn't it be easier to glue the 2 parts together?

Hi Mike, first of all, what type of Ultimaker do you have? If you go to your account / profile you can fill out the details. It will help troubleshooting

Certainly, they are scheduled for 15-10-'15. 6 months after the first one got shipped (slightly different from 'launch of the machine').

Dunno if you'll believe me, but I was gonna suggest a loose set screw It makes sense how it started moving less and less, and you didn't hear or feel any resistance! You got the entire panel off? Need help getting everything set up again?

I think it would be best if you could fetch one of those problematic printers and test it at the UM HQ. As far as I know, 's printer should be available. We are! But like you say, it is difficult to test. A lot of things are already tested and replaced and compared, but it is difficult to find consistent results. We'll continue to investigate!

interesting idea.

I remember someone saying that indeed the feeder can wear out.. like that at some point it can't offer the same tension as in the beginning. But I am not sure exactly what caused it.. can you see some wear, or perhaps manually feel a difference? If it is locked and the printhead is heated, can you manually pull it out? I don't think you should.