SandervG

I haven't printed anything that small in a while. I was also going to recommend to print a tower or duplicate of your model, if you could also need 2. @Nallath, do you know if it is intended to do a retraction when the head travels aside when the layer is cooling?

Hi Les, thank you for your reply! The point of the Olsson Block is that you can swap nozzles. That is the main usp. You should not swap nozzles cold, you will most likely break the thread. So you are doing a good job swapping them hot. Over-tighting on the other hand is not so good. Personally I never use any tools to tighten the nozzles, well, except this 'cap'. When the hot end is warm, I can put in the nozzle in there manually and usually it is in there before the heat has made the nozzle too hot too touch. Finally, I use that cap to turn it tight. That has always done the trick for me. But there are also tools that measure or control the amount of torque you can apply. @IrobertI, do you remember how much torque was suppose to be applied? I am curious, what does sticking your head in the build volume has to do with empty/old reels? Luckily, it doesn't sound like it may influence your personal health (except, don't burn your head on the glass plate ) Maybe some health things to fix for your Ultimaker. But that is what we are here for About the bowden tube, is there still a horse shoe securing the bowden collet? That should prevent your bowden tube from moving up and down. If your bowden tube moves up and down, this kinda eliminates any retractions. So you would have to start retracting more, but that would be the wrong approach trying to solve this. You would be far better off to just secure your bowden tube and use normal settings. Good luck!

Yep.

Hi Les, what improper techniques are you referring to, and how is this affecting your health? It would be a shame if you would have to get rid of your Ultimaker. I know of a lot of projects you are working on. Not at the cost of your health of course, but I have no doubt that there are ways you can continue to use it safely. What would you like to improve by changing the PID settings? Is the matchless nozzles the one with the cylinders on the inside? I don't believe it has better heat transfer, but due to the internal geometry there is also some heating going on from in the chamber, not just the outside. I think there were also some sidenotes, but don't recall them at the moment.. 100mm3/s? That does sound insane! Did you manage this?

Looks like yours worked out really well! On the photo it looks like this is exactly the effect you want to give? Did the BB core get clogged by PVA? How often has this happened? Any idea why it happened? Thanks!

There are certainly alternatives for certain parts on an Ultimaker, which behave different than the Ultimaker-part. A reason for considering an alternative could simply be price (if they would behave the same), or because they behave differently, and perhaps this would suit your workflow better. It can be. That is also why we have such an open system, so there is a level of freedom for our users to tweak their tools and workflows to optima forma. What we (try to) say is that if you replace parts by a third party product, which is not just cheaper, but behaves differently, the settings will need to be adjusted to this new situation, to make it 'optimal' again. The current settings are tailored for Ultimaker-parts. So if you want a different set up, you have to know this influences your settings too.

Besides bigger nozzles, it also really depends on your model and what you want to use it for. If the shape allows it, you could print it single walled, which makes it much faster. No infill also cuts down your printing time, but this does not work for all models. In general small prints can not achieve similar top speeds as bigger models.

That sounds like default settings for PLA, not ABS.ABS has bed temp of 100/110ºC and nozzle temp of 250ºC.

Hi @shaun167, I sent you a message!

@kmanstudios, I want to report your need to use a cradle or anchors. Could you share your Cura version with me where you felt this was necessary, and a link to the model where it was necessary? Do you have any additional information on the environment you used it (like ambient temperature / humidity) and the state of your PVA? (@Gr5, if you have an example for the above mentioned, that would be welcome too!) We may all learn something

That is the case with ABS, there is no bonding between the materials and it will just slide off. I think it is a stretch too far to say it doesn't stick at all but there are certainly things to take into consideration. Cura 2.6 Beta has some improved features to give users more control over their slicing and improve the connection between PLA and PVA. Gr5's tips may certainly improve the success rate of the print so I would say they are worth trying, if you do not get it under control 'the regular way'.

Ok, feel free to include a photo of your feeder if you want some additional confirmation that everything looks as normal. Otherwise I'm looking forward to hear if increasing the tension has helped your print quality

The higher this indicator, the less tension you have on your filament. Given the fact you are suffering from under extrusion I am inclined to think you have too little tension. Did you ever take your feeder apart? Is the adjustment screw still in the housing? I would adjust the tension to the middle and try to print again. Thank you

Hi Shaun, I don't see any photo's included in your post. Perhaps you forgot a link, or to upload them? In the latest Cura version (beta) we have improved some settings that should improve the adhesion between PLA and PVA, especially in the areas where PVA rests on the PLA. There are settings evolving around support interface. Have you made any tests with these features? Photo's are always helpful!

Brings us back to the previous question, what feeder do you have installed and what is the tension you have set it to?

I believe innofill has some good filaments too, but it could be just a bad reel. If it is old it could be dried out, when it has been out of the bag too long, has laid in the sun or near a radiator for example. It can also just be a bad batch. A common misconception is that often the hardware is blamed when it is the material that lets us down.. Happy you found the core of your problem. Happy printing!

If your fanshroud is touching the left frame, you should probably gently bend your fanshroud down. Maybe during the process you bent it a little bit and it just got a bit too much range. Should be pretty easy to fix. PTFE looks super clean, so that is not it. Thank you for checking! Do you have the original feeder on your Ultimaker? How is the tension? Could you take maybe one or two photo's of your prints where it goes wrong for some more perspective? Thanks!

This is the top right? Can you take a photo of the bottom? Here are some instructions.

May not be relevant, but just to be sure, what brand PLA are you using? If the print was still stuck, something must have interrupted the layer bonding. The edge of your print looks pretty rough, so there was some minor extrusion all of the sudden, and later, looking at the density of your birdnest-string extrusion seems to have caught up. Could be an inconsistency in the filament, or some dirt which clogged your nozzle for a moment.

For example, have you read these pages?

Hi @Shaun167, welcome to the forums! Sorry to hear you seem to have had some issues with combining PLA and PVA. PVA is not the easiest material to work with, but with the proper usage and treatment it is definitely doable. If you could explain your challenges and results with us I am sure we could give you some tips to get it to work. It may not sound appealing at first, cause you probably have already tried a lot of things (maybe everything), but I think it may be worth the effort since at one point you decided you needed the Ultimaker 3, and also dual extrusion. Look beyond the frustration and getting it to work now so you can finally start using those features is only one small last step, right?

What material are you using? From what brand?

How do you mean soft? Could it be that because it is soft, it can not be screwed tightly? Do you mean the nut can not fit tight on the bolt, or are you trying to screw it in another object? Perhaps the material requires different cooling, and the cooling you used now influenced its dimensional accuracy? ABS in general has the tendency to shrink when it cools down too fast, hence you often see problems like warping and delamination with ABS.

Did your print get detached from the print bed during the print, which led to this bird nest?

Hi @TonyDG, welcome to the forums! We're sorry to hear you have had difficulties printing with PVA. It is definitely no easy material to work with, but it works with the right treatment. Have you been keeping it in a drybox in between print jobs, and not stored on your Ultimaker for (many) hours / days in a row? PVA absorbs moist from the air and it could add to the difficulty to use it. In an oven or with silica you can often subtract a lot of the moist, but you know.. prevention is better than cure What were the difficulties you were facing? Have you tried hot and cold pulls? I'm happy you got the offer to send back your print core to get it fixed. Sounds like some good service. Hopefully we can give you the know-how to happily work with PVA upon the return of your print core! Let us know what questions you might have