SandervG

Well, the obvious answer is that our google search engine is differently configured than the 'real' google. What I see is that on the 'real' google, it also shows hits from 'popular pages' and the 'people' section. Where our search is in this case only from the forum. If I add /en/community the 'real' google search is also being reduced to 28 hits (which is still more than 15). I'll ask our dev who implemented it if he can pinpoint the difference in configuration. But the real question is.. did you find what you were looking for using the forum's google search?

Thanks, let me look into this!

I haven't tried it yet, but I found the PVA (removal) that Joel demonstrates interesting. (like I said, dunno if it is any good.)

Yep, you can not send DM's before your account is approved, to prevent people from sending spam to each other. (For that same reason accounts need to be approved before posts turn visible on the forums). Thank you for your time, hopefully you'll be able to get your hands on those wheels.

This is a good place to start: https://magnetic-tool-changer.com/

Hi @Randyinla, thank you very much for your suggestions! I'm definitely going to share them with our developers, perhaps it is an option they have not thought of and could be used as a (temporarily) fix. Thanks!!

Hi, thank you for mentioning this again but don't you worry for a second we have forgotten about it I checked, and it is currently on the top of our 'bug-list', however this does not mean it will automatically be the first one to be addressed. The required amount of resources to fix it are also a big influencer that determine wheter it fits in the new sprint or not. Unfortunately it was investigated and proven to be a back-end issue which was not easy to solve. The full focus of our dev team lies on making the whole site faster (which is also nice!), server migration and a better cms (also back end). I'll check in person with the PO if he can make any statement on when he thinks it may be included in the new sprint. Our apologies about the inconvenience!

And when in need, there is this awesome community who can help you out

Just checking.... "or my UM2+ to arrive" I hope you don't mean you're waiting on a NEW um2+ to arrive? Did you read the latest Ultimaker 2's are MISSING THE 5th DRIVER so you can not control the 2th extruder? It's mentioned on the site and in the BOM, but just thought I notice it again to be clear. ultimaker can not give an exact moment they changed the electronics, but roughly on machines from end 2016 - 2017 you should check if you still have the 5th driver on the main board. I think an important nuance is, it may be missing. Getting exact clarity on this has been difficult.

Hi @shockbolt, welcome to the forums! What you are referring to as the culprit is the white PTFE coupler, which indeed can start showing signs of wear. Looks like you found it! It is hard to pinpoint an exact number of print hours on it, since it continuously receives pressure from the spring above it and what filaments you print (how hot your hot end gets) is also influential. The fact that it is a consumable and can show signs of wear is a fact though. With the Ultimaker 2+ we have replaced the spring by a spacer, and replaced the PTFE by a glassfilled PTFE, which is stronger than the 'old' one. If you still had the old one, a new one may last longer. About error 2, why would you want to move the printhead so fast? What probably happens, although with filament is seems unlikely unless you move it really really fast, is that you make the steppermotors turn, which generate some power which make it to your electronics. That may probably cause it to freeze. Best remedy is.. don't move it too fast manually

Not necessarily, it could be due to a variety of reasons. But are you sure it gets clogged in the first place? What are the signs that make you think so? Too much flow would make your feeder grind probably more than nozzle clogging, but too high of a temperature can lead to clogged nozzles yes.

If you actually want to incinerate gas, regular thermo-plastic will not survive this heat so I don't think this can be 3D printed. A prototype can, but not with actual combustion. I know of Eventuri who does some fit testing and actual prototyping with his models, but only very briefly. He uses some special kind of rubber (I believe he mentioned some reference to a scuba diver suit) to wrap around the printed parts and protect them from the heat. But I imagine this only a potential work-around for easy accessible parts. Not an entire engine. Making a mold to make metal parts could work.

Looks good. How many of these buildplates will you need to print? Did that overhang on the second tallest part have support? Looks like it might need it. Sometimes when you scale up or down, margins used by the original designer become either too small or too big, and therefor perhaps a less strong model (think of that 3D printed wrench for example). But I don't think that matters for this model, does it?

Congratulations

These are the best topics, which have already been solved when you start to read them Happy to hear you got it back to work. How are the Ultimaker 3's working for you?

Hi Ronan, I'm very sorry to hear the rods came out again. Very peculiar. Ive been out of the office on some holidays last week, hence my late reply. I assume you have spoken with your reseller by now. Are you on a path to salvation now?

Hi @Fergazz, I'll send you a message!

Cool, I saw that print recently somewhere as well. Should come out really nice And thanks for the extra background information Do you always have that rubberband around your printhead? Did it fall open once?

Could it be that a fan is causing the difference in temperature, if the sensor is on the printhead? There are 3 fans in the printhead. You could consider adding a hood to close the top, although I don't think that would case a draft.

Hi @Lamb_proto, thank you for your message and welcome to the forums! Do you perhaps have some photo's of what the fault looks like? That always helps a lot when isolating the problem. Have you followed or done any of these recommended maintenance tips to your Ultimaker? Did you also clean the Z-rod? In any case, without having seen any photo's I would recommend to give your threaded Z axis a good clean. A PTFE coupler which is down to its last breath probably won't cause a repetitive failure around 20mm, but just in case, have you ever replaced your PTFE coupler? Looking forward hearing from you.

Hi @Chenci, Thank you for your message and welcome to the forums! 'I'm using 3.0mm PLA with 195°c/65°c and 67% flow rate. I got this setting from my PLA supplier.' Are you sure it is 3.0 mm, or is it actually 2.85mm? If it is 3.0mm there is a chance it is too thick and somewhere in the bowden tube or hot end there is added friction which can cause under extrusion. The Ultimaker generally uses 2.85mm. The internal diameter of the bowden tube is 3.16mm, so if there is some thicker area or deformation of the filament it could be enough. If it is 3.00mm and there is no friction you can change the diameter of your filament in Cura from 2.85 to 3.00. If you use Cura 2.4, click the top right box next to Nozzle & Material. In the drop down, click 'Manage materials'. Select PLA, duplicate it and click Edit. In Edit you can change the name to PLA 3.0 and change the diameter to 3.00mm (I would recommend to measure it to be sure). This would be a better approach than reducing the flowrate. Your flowrate seems too low, and the temperature also seems kinda low, which both could explain the under extrusion. .. If the filament is not just too thick to begin with Good luck!

Thank you for sharing the documentation, interesting read! Do you use any covers with ABS? And ventilation? (altho the latter has nothing to do with warping, but your own health ) Hopefully your 'real' prints will stick equally well when using 3D Lac or the ABS Slurry. Do you always use ABS? It sounded like the ABS slurry lost some points when it got loose from the bed when cooling down, but you could also see this as an added point right? So you would not have to use any spatula to pry it loose.

Exciting! And a very interesting read. You refer to an article you wrote about custom brims, can you post a link here too? Have you used both Cura and s3D with ZGE? What is your verdict on this? Curious to see more of it!

Interesting question, I don't know. As far as I know, the conductive materials available now still have very high resistances. Although I may have heard of one which showed some potential, but it was very expensive. I think you should be able to use PLA or ABS as an insulator. Are there also filaments with even higher resistance? Anyway, my advice is probably not very helpful, but I am curious about the answer

Cool, do you have some photo's to show the difference?