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This same problem happened to a friend of mine who had put a bad core into the print head and he shorted out a critical chip inside the print head which talks to the core. He replaced the circuit board in the print head and the problem went away. Your problem may be different but my advice is to replace that board first (around 120 euros I think) and then if that doesn't fix it replace the arduino PCB also (the one that connects to the print head). Basically at some point during boot it gets stuck. If you get the olimex cable then you can connect to the linux console inside the printer (username ultimaker password ultimaker) and look at the log files there. But I think you will learn the same thing: replace head pcb. More about olimex cable here:

Also go to "preview" mode (top center) and on the left switch from "layer view" to "xray view" and if you see any red in xray view you either have an extra interior surface or a missing surface. This is discussed also in the link above.

Okay so in sketchup - sketchup lets you create non-solids. And in the STL file sketchup is telling cura which sides of the surfaces face air and which side faces plastic. You want to see *only* what faces. But in the image below where I zoomed in on one of your images - you can see the inside of that cylinder is blueish gray? Right click on that and select "reverse faces" and it will turn white indicating that the visible side of that cylinder is facing air. Look for other surfaces like that. That's the only one in my tiny clip but I see the inside base is blue in one box and the taller box with the two vertical holes has the center (of 3 faces) as blue. Fix all of those. Here are more hints - it looks like a lot to read but it's pretty straight forward and quick reading and very informative: https://i.materialise.com/blog/3d-printing-with-sketchup/

Cura seems to work fine on mac, linux, windows. For windows it seems to work fine in windows 7 and windows 10. Not sure about other versions. But you MUST have a 64 bit operating system. I think windows 7 might have been available in either 32bit or 64bit.

@JasmineTurner I recommend watching youtube videos. Once you find one that is helpful, give it a thumbs up and youtube will recommend similar videos. You could probably stick to videos in your native language if you prefer as 3d printing is strong and active in every european country.

I have two answers for you. 1) See "initial layer line width" parameter in cura. Make sure that is 100% (not the default 120%). Also look for line width everywhere in cura and make it match your nozzle (typically 0.4mm). 2) Regardless - you have underextrusion - at least on the bottom layer. Answer 1 will not help you much. If you use default line width (I'm guessing it's 0.35) and you have initial line width at 120% then .35 * 1.2 is .42mm line width. Anyway regardless of what the actual line width is, the printer commands the extruder to extrude the correct amount to just perfectly fill in the lines. Your underextrusion could simply be a leveling issue (assuming it's only happening on the bottom layer) or it could be that your bottom layer is just printed to fast and/or too thick or too cold. I guess the big question is this: is it doing this on the third layer (or higher) as well? If so then you are printing too fast for your printer (it could be there is something wrong with the printer but at this speed and temp, the extrusion portion of the printer can't keep up).

The nozzle has a flat tip. If you print at an angle then the flat tip is angled to the surface of the print making grooves like a tiny snow plow pushing plastic around. The steeper the angle the worse this gets and now the tops of spheres are ugly in a new way - instead of the staircase you get grooved parallel lines. Better if you have a 5 axis printer where the nozzle can tilt +/- 90 degrees along both X and Y axes. This would allow printing overhangs also. This is common in CNC milling (5 axis CNC). The math is complicated and usually done in the CAD software (not the slicing software). Maybe because you need a CAD model of the print head as well. So you kind of need $5000 per year per seat CAD software for now to create the "tool path". But right now even that software doesn't do 5 axis 3d printing tool paths -- at least I haven't heard of any software to do this at this time.

That video shown above was created by Joris. 6 years ago. He did it in the older version of cura - 15.X - actually 13.X (back then the version number indicated the year of release. But the trick was that he wrote a plugin for cura that makes the Z go up and down - it's a post processing plugin that takes the resulting gcode and it modifies the Z values in this up/down pattern. This wouldn't work for just any shape - he just wrote it as a simple zig-zag (sine wave) pattern. It works best for cups. It's designed specifically for this one cup and wouldn't help you out for say a car roof. The code for the plugin is available - I think it's on thingiverse search for "joris cups" on thingiverse - he made one a week for a year I think.

You can print on cold glass if you cover it with the supplied blue tape. UM3 should come with blue tape [correction um2 comes with tape but not um3] but you can use any printer's tape (such as frog tape). The wider the tape, the better. The most important thing is to: wash the tape with isopropyl alcohol (aka rubbing alcohol) This appears to remove the wax coating that prevents the tape from sticking to itself while still on it's spool. Without the alcohol treatment parts won't stick well to the tape.

I don't know a lot about machine settings but I have all Ultimaker printers and if someone on the forum has a non-ultimaker printer and they post the .3mf file then it's good that their machine settings come across (for example print bed size) so we get the same slicing result.

They are called profiles. You can save profiles. I have a different method that seems to work better as I have heard all manner of horror stories related to profiles but have NEVER had a problem with my own method. First of all when I think everything is sliced right I click on the text in the bottom left corner and name what I want to call the project. This is of course optional but saves you time as you will be creating 2 files not one. Then in the bottom right I do "save to disk" which creates either a gcode file, or ufp, or what have you depending on the printer. Then I do menu item "file" "save" which creates the 3mf file. Also known as a "project" file (not a profile). The 3mf file is amazing - it saves what profile you used (e.g. "fine") and it saves all your overrides. It also saves your model (or models) and where you positioned the model and how you scaled it and rotated it. It also saves your machine settings! So if you send the 3mf file to someone else they will get all that plus your machine settings! It's just very very useful and the file is barely larger than the STL file(s) in it. I have upgrades cura many times and never had a problem reading in an old stl file. The profiles on the other hand - don't always work when you upgrade (I hear - never tried it myself). Once you have loaded a saved profile or a 3mf file you can see what settings were overridden. Make sure you are in advanced settings mode and where it has the name of the profile (e.g. "fine 0.1mm") there is a star. Click that star and there is a popup. This part isn't perfect but I find it very very useful. Look at the columns of settings and see which changed but more importantly click on the "extruder 1" tab and you can see most of the settings changes (from the basic profile) there.

So now that you know, you can add M302 to the top of all your print jobs and you should be able to print at 160C just fine.

So there are about 10 things that come to mind that cause this so it would be nice to get more information. 1) One possibility is that the 24V is not reaching the servos and heaters. This is common. Do the servos move at all? This is easy to fix and would explain why both heaters have issues. 2) If the servos move and if it reads correct temp but does not warm up then your heater is defective in some way. It could be as simple as the cable isn't quite inserted at the PCB - it corrodes or can come loose so remove and reinsert the heater wires. 3) If it still doesn't heat up then remove the wires again and check the resistance with a multimeter. A working heater is around 20 to 30 ohms. A broken one is usually infinite ohms. But check these wires while not connected to the PCB. If it's infinite you need to buy a new one. If you don't own a multimeter hopefully you have a friend who does and knows how to use it. Everyone should have such a friend.

Did you heat the extruder to 180C before trying to move it? Or instead did you issue a "cold extrude" or M302?

When doing testing it's important to know that the extruder on 90% of printers out there will not move the extruder unless you either enable "cold moves" or heat the nozzle above a certain temperature (I think 170F). This detail made me think my stepper was broken for a while but it was fine. Anyway - assuming that's not the problem - it's probably one of the 4 wires that go to the stepper. If any of the 4 wires is broken it won't rotate. Disconnect the stepper from the PCB and measure the resistance of each pair. Each pair should have a resistance of < 24 ohms. Quite a bit less. And the pairs should be isolated from each other so measuring resistance from a while of one pair to either wire of the other pair should be infinite. I suspect there is a broken wire almost certainly at the stepper end or at the PCB end.

First look at your part in layer view to be sure these crazy movements aren't part of the gcode. But that is unlikely. More likely your um2 is getting errors when reading the SD card. 1) try a different sd card. Buy one if you don't have any spares. 2) try cleaning the sd card slot. I had to take my um2 apart and clean that slot very well. I found a tiny hair in there (eyelash maybe) and after cleaning the random motions went away. You might be able to get away with just compressed air and not disassembling but that hair was very stubborn for me. Before you disassemble anything note that if you slide the bed up and look inside there is a semi clear part with a hole in it - you can see that if you put a small screwdriver in that hole and push it pushes the main control knob off. That was the only tricky step for me. once you expose the nut you can remove the nut and remove the screws that hold the cover on and remove the screws holding that small pcb down.

More likely I'm thinking something is broken in your UM3 print head. Try putting other cores into the right side. Do they go up and down when you slide the lever?

Instead of just using one hand, try using the other hand to squeeze from the nozzle to the clear part. Slide it up and down many times. Where is it sticking? The spring can get jammed and start to come out of the clear part. Taking the clear part and spring off is easy. Try doing that and putting it back together. Here is a detailed video of taking your core apart but you only need to remove the clear part so it's quite simple. Full disassembly is really a last resort and can destroy your core but taking off the clear part is simple.

Why can't you just buy ordinary gloves at any clothing store? They come in many sizes and many materials such as cotton, wool, leather, etc.

By the way, the S5 only does 2 filaments so getting more than 2 colors in your print would be quite difficult but I've seen people do some impressive painting. Look here for example of what other people have done

No. Well maybe. If you are a very good 3D artist, then yes. If you have studied the human body as an artist for years and have practiced drawing different muscle groups and have sculpting experience, then yes. You have to learn to use a 3d sculpting cad program like zbrush but yes. If you are not a seriously amazing artist then you need a lot of photos. Like 30 to 100 photos of the person. And they can't move during this time. There are scanners you can buy that connect to an ipad that will do this - scan a person while you walk around them and capture from up high, midway and down low as you walk around the person to be captured 3 to 6 times. Or you can build a fancy thing that takes 30 pictures at once with 30 cameras all triggering at the same moment. Then with those photos there is software that will create the 3d model. But if all you have is less than 10 photos, or if the person moved while the 10 to 50 photos were taken, then back to my first answer. No.

Wow - that stl file has a LOT of triangles for just a barrel. I'm not sure if you need that many triangles for all that wood grain and if they will all be visible. I would probably reduce the number of triangles just so that I could work with the object faster in CAD. But that won't help your issue. So I looked at your STL file in xray mode in cura and there is lots of red - particularly at each of the metal bands. You have surfaces just hanging in air that don't connect to anything solid. That might be the only problem - not sure. What CAD are you using? Most cad programs won't let you do this. Most CAD programs deal only with solids but some cad programs like sketchup let you deal with surfaces which is unfortunate as surfaces are unprintable unless they are connected together to make solids. I think you are going to have to "go inside" your model and remove the extra surfaces. Also some CAD programs that let you deal with surfaces let you paint the surface as "inside" or "outside" the solid. For example a cube would have 6 faces and you have to tell sketchup to make the outer surfaces the "outside". Sketchup isn't smart enough to do it all alone. This "outside" versus "inside" property ends up in the STL and if the top rim of your barrel has it backwards it can confuse cura. What CAD do you use? You can also repair this model using netfabb's free service on the web. That's a quick solution. It's free but you have to create an acocunt. https://service.netfabb.com/login.php

FYI - burtoogle doesn't work for Ultimaker. non-planar printing only works on slopes up to around 30 degrees. The demos all show parts that don't exceed this on their top surface. So it's very limited. Basically it will the top bit of a sphere and that's it. I would expect it improves the top of 1 design in 100 but it's hard to say.

In my experience white filaments (regardless of brand) string more. A lot more. I found this is true for PLA and also CPE. So my advice is to avoid very light colors like white and light yellow. Orange and other slightly darker colors seems to print fine without any stringing.

These printers are very tough. I've had happen what you experienced several times but with zero lasting damage to the printer. It sounds more like you somehow damaged the switch? I guess my first piece of advice is to do a manual level since you removed and replaced the switch. This is important. Other than that - did you bend the metal part of the switch? If so you could bend it back. You can push the bed up and down with power off and you can hear where it "clicks" the endstop switch. Make sure you hear the click. If not you might need to bend the switch a little or mount it a little higher.