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When you get these kinks solved, send us a photo of a print so we can give you more advice as you are almost certainly going to run into two more problems. In fact here are 2 pieces of advice: Tighten the feeder screw more such that the spring is around 10mm compressed. You want the knurled wheel to bite into the filament visibly. Level the bed closer to the glass than UM suggests such that the filament squishes quite a bit on the bottom layer. This helps it stick 10X better.

I assume you mean "set screws" and not "tensioners". The amount of acceleration can be different on different layers depending on the movement path that gcode commands. It's complicated. Just tighten those set screws. Note that you could print these tensioners also: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:19892 If you push the head into a corner and pluck the long belts you can use a tuning app and the pitch should be around 100 to 200Hz.

I'm not sure what the correct part number is for the belts but if the Y fits and the X doesn't I'm going to guess that you have the right parts. My belts were also a bit loose but not quite as much as yours. There is a screw in the wooden block that you can use to tighten the tension on the belt a certain amount. But that requires a lot of disassembly work. Instead if you can get some wooden clothespins with the spring - that spring I'm told is perfect for a tensioner and what is found inside the UM2 blocks (maybe?). Place it at the opposite point on the belt from the block. As far as losing steps on each layer - that problem is indeed unrelated. It is giving you leaning prints, right? That is caused by either the short belts rubbing against the wood (it can be subtle - look to see if the belt twists opposite directions when it reverses direction) and the fix is to add a shim or spacer to move the belt another 0.4mm away from the wood. But much more likely your set screws are not tight enough on the pulleys - particularly the 2 on the short belts (on the motor and on the other end of the short belt). Tighten the hell out of these set screws. In fact you may have gotten alternate (shiny) set screws among your kit that are pointier and work better than the default ones. But I just stuck with the default ones (black) and tightened the hell out of them. You should be tightening these more than you think you need to. Your tool should be twisting slightly. If you were to use an L shaped allen wrench your fingers would be hurting after. More info here: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#leaning

It's definitely possible to make the filament grind more. Usually it will just skip backwards one full step and then underextrude for a few seconds. Which is also annoying. Also if you make it so thin it is transparent *and* you use glue then you will likely find yourself sticking so well that tiny chunks of glass come up with your print. So I recommend you don't go so close it's transparent. I mean for 3 reasons: 1) print sticks TOO well. 2) pressure gets very high and so feeder might skip a step and result in underextrusion for a few seconds 3) pressure gets too high and sometimes it suddenly all leaks out in an ugly blob - particularly when it starts the second layer. There is some give when you are a bit too close. The pressure builds up and then the filament slides a bit in the feeder and you can get as much as 20% underextrusion/slippage without filament slipping suddenly. I say "underextrusion" but what's really happening is it's printing only what it possibly can in the space it has to work with and so less 20% less filament is passing through the feeder than requested - typically the diamond holes in the filament made by the feeder are elongated. Which is all fine. but when you are at 50% slippage then it's too much squish. There isn't a fine line between too close and just right - there are lots of right answers so don't sweat it so much. I like to remind myself when I have too many choices that many of the choices are excellent (applie pie versus blueberry pie - crest versus colgate) and not to worry too much but to be aware.

Play with the fan speed in the TUNE menu. I find 30% is a safe speed for me where the fan always comes on and it's not too fast for ABS. Your machine may be a bit different. Also note that on the UM2 there is this strange interaction where you can set a material "fan speed" and also a fan speed in cura and the two speeds are multiplied together. So if you have it at 50% in cura and 50% in materials menu you end up with 25% fan speed (which usually gets things spinning for me). ALSO be aware that cura defaults to zero fan on the bottom layer (which is advised for both PLA and ABS) and then the fan comes on gradually over several layers. So maybe you just didn't wait long enough. You can make the fan come on sooner in cura in the fan related settings. The reason it comes on gradually is so the nozzle doesn't get too cold too fast but for ABS where the top speed is probably 30% this is completely unnecessary.

There is a feature that keeps the extruders from moving unless the nozzle is above 170C. So either heat up the nozzle, or issue a M302 which will allow cold extrusions (until the next power cycle).

@nomadic318 I think you are going to have to spend $400 for a new computer (the cheapest computers at best buy are pretty darn good these days) or borrow a friends computer. It sounds like yours is very sick. or you could do a fresh install of windows but you will lose all your pictures and files and such. Or you can try "system restore".

Wow. I love your feeder design over on thingiverse. Nice.

Try another computer? Do you have an old windows machine maybe? What kind of printer do you have? If cura 15.X used to work for you I recommend that as it's an older version that works more consistently with more widely varying graphics cards.

The printer should display the IP address on the main menu screen. If not then I suppose you have to enable "developer mode" in the menus and then it shows the ip address. Knowing the ip address might be helpful when you talk to IT.

Ah. Okay. Well if there is no "save project" under the file menu then you must have cura 15.* or older (from 2015). Which is a very good version. In that version you can't save the object and it's position and it's rotation. What you *can* save is all the other settings (brim versus skirt, layer height, etc. Everything). In fact it is ALWAYS automatically saved in the last line of the gcode file. It's not human readable. What you do is in cura you can say "load profile from gcode..." and choose a gcode file and it loads up all your settings so they are identical to those of that earlier slicing you did. But you might want to switch to cura 3.0 (cura 3.1 has a bug severe enough that I would avoid 3.1 and go right to 3.2 when it comes out).

You can look at gcode files but that's about it. There are also 3rd party viewers such as http://gcode.ws

For Cura, STL is the input. gcode is the output. It sounds like you want to save a 3rd thing - the settings and placement and so on that created the gcode. There is a great feature in Cura to do this. It's called "save project". I do this for every thing I slice and print so I can get back to the exact settings and placement of the part and so on. In addition of course I save the STL file. Later you can load the "project" and it even includes where you placed the file, how you rotated it, how you scaled it, and all the settings. It's a very useful feature.

The "softening temp" is the least accurate because it's usually glass temp (which can be less than 0C for something like nylon or ninjaflex which is useless info) or heat deflection temp which is also sometimes useless. I'm pretty sure the softening temp is wrong for some of the items in the green area but I don't have any samples so I don't know for sure. Most of these materials did indeed come with a printing range and so I picked a temp near the middle. Some ranges were tight (e.g. 210-220) and some were loose like PLA (180-230). It would indeed be great to have a min/max printing range pair of columns.

The fan I linked to is silent from 2 meters away.

Adding more filament should work but I'd just remove the bowden from either end. Remove the clip. Push down firmly on the collet so that it's all the way down and then at the same time pull the bowden straight up.

I don't know the answer to your question but... On your screenshot it shows "search...". First make ALL settings visible, and then enter "temp" into that search box in your screenshot. Perhaps there is another temperature setting (I'm not sure).

I don't think you need a ruby nozzle - I'm not aware that peek is harder than brass. You can't use the PT100 with that AD547 board - so that's part of your problem. The voltage out should not be 4.9V - it should be about 0.2V. But that's because your using a PT100 instead of a thermocouple. The UM PCB has a circuit on it that can measure PT100 directly. You don't need any special electronics. But you have to connect it to a different part of the PCB. There should be 3 temperature in circuits. You have to use one of those 3 connectors (temp1, temp2, temp3). The special PT100 circuitry only connects to those three locations so you have to use one of those.

@tiaguera79 - I have to say it's frustrating getting information from you. I still don't know what kind of temperature sensor you have. When you mentioned the AD547 - I thought you meant you wired up the chip yourself - having these photos is VERY HELPFUL. Please - for the 3rd time I ask: what kind of temperature sensor are you using? I am going to COMPLETELY CHANGE my assumptions - and assume you do not have PT100 sensor but a thermocouple. These are an older technology but it's possible to get it working. Once you get this working, the first thing you should do (again - assuming this is a thermocouple) is twist those two thin red wires so they are twisted all the way from the thermocouple to the AD547. Also keep the length of wires as short as possible - in other words mount the AD547 on the print head if possible. Those wires are very sensitive to radio noise. Particularly any wires going to any fans or heaters. So keep those wires as far as possible from other wiring. Once the signal comes out of the AD547 board the wires are no longer sensitive to noise. Keeping the thermocouple wires at least 1cm away from any other wires should be good enough. But don't do that until you get things working. You said it didn't work but could you be more specific? Is it reporting 0C? Is it reporting an error? Here is how the AD547 circuit is supposed to work. If you measure the 3 wires at the AD547 (or on the other end is better - on the white UM board under the printer), the voltage between red and black should be 5V and the voltage between green and black should be the temperature X10mv. In other words 1V means 100C and 0.2V is 20C which is typical room temperature. So expect around 0.2V on the green wire. If this is true then you have all the wiring correct and the problem is with the firmware. This is a critical step as being able to split the possible problems in half saves you a lot of time.

That sounds silly. It's probably fine. Maybe you should be more specific - where are you chainging this - in Cura? In the drop down? Does it really say "natural" (I haven't seen that before)? What brand of PVA are you planning to print? Are you planning to run the PVA through a BB core (or AA or 3rd party?)

Sounds like you are doing great then. You lost me a bit - is the AD547 used on the UM2 with the PT100? I guess if so you should hook up the pt100 and look at the output of the AD547 circuit with a volt meter and see if it's the right voltage. Send me a circuit diagram of what you did and I can tell you what voltage it should be putting out at room temperature. Even better, send me a circuit diagram and include what voltages you measure on all the pins of the AD547 and the output of the circuit. I'm pretty good with op amps and circuits.

I agree: it's confusing. "Wall" thickness used to be called "Shell" so that adds confusion. A solid cube would have 4 sides and each side is normally printed as 1 or more walls/shells and then an infill pattern inside that. You get better quality if you have at least two passes on these 4 walls (on our cube example). More than 2 only increases strength, not quality. Also it's best if the width of each of these (lets say two) wall passes are the same width as each other and the same width as the nozzle (or a little smaller). So for a 0.4mm nozzle I usually plan 2 or 3 passes and so make the shell/wall width exactly 0.8 or 1.2mm to get exactly two or exactly 3 passes. If you make it 0.9 or 1.3 then cura will increase the line width and overextrude and you are at risk of underextrusion issues. Similarly for a 0.8mm nozzle I like 2 passes so I set the wall thickness to 1.6 (not 1.5 or 1.7 - I want these line widths to match my nozzle width for best results). Cura likes to default a bit small which is fine - cura defaults a 0.4mm nozzle to having 0.35mm line widths so if you want to go with that then you could go with 0.7mm or 1.05mm wall thickness. If you *don't* go with exact multiples then you will often get pretty ugly things happening.

Please describe what you bought. How many watts is the heated bed. How will you power it? Did you buy a separate controller for the heated bed? What hot end are you using and more importantly does it use a PT100 for the temp sensor and if not a PT100 then what does it use. These are things that might require changes to the firmware. Instructions for building the firmware are here:

FYI - it takes about 30 seconds from power up to working menu system. So no need to wait longer than say 40 seconds before realizing "it's still broken". I say this in case you want to check the cables underneath to make sure they are all plugged in.

These machines are tested very carefully before shipping. The problem is almost always with the shipping.