gr5

It might be better to post this in the (huge) mark2 topic because the people who know the answer probably won't notice your post but I'll help you out by letting at least one person know about your above post. @foehnsturm @tinkergnome - do either of you know what this guy is talking about? Again if you don't get an answer within a few hours go find the huge mark 2 post which has a dozen or so followers.

Oh! Okay - and you are sure you selected "extended" in cura? Okay assuming you did another possibility is that there is a jumper on the circuit board that can make Z be either 8 stubsteps or 16 substeps. In fact some people accidentally connected the fan connector to this jumper and what happens is the fan acts like a short (or close enough) and the Z axis moves half the distance it is supposed to. So look at the circuit board - both sides - and near the middle of the board (not on any edge) is a connector and if you look at it carefully it says something like 8/16 z steps. Something like that. Make sure NOTHING is connected to those two pins.

I think you can flash the firmware using cura - connect your computer with cura on it to the um2 with a usb cable and then in cura go to machine configuration, select a the correct printer and choose the button "Upgrade Firmware".

Okay so the parts you circled look like typical underextrusion. But it's on the top. Again I'd like to see a photo from the side. 6 layers at 0.2mm for a total of 1.2mm top? Or 6 layers at 0.1mm for a total of 0.6mm top? You want at least 1mm top/bottom thickness if this amount of underextrusion is bothering you. Please confirm top/bottom thickness and then I'll give you the likely causes of underextrusion.

I guess that means it's a feature

lol. Those values are stored in the eeprom and nothing resets them back to zero. If you do RESET TO FACTORY SETTINGS, it resets everything in the eeprom back to sane values. Except these 2 numbers, lol. So... 4573 days. That's um, 12 years. So you got one of the early versions? lol. I think the founders of UM were still in primary school and the fablab where they built their first 3d printer probably didn't exist back then. 65 kilometers of filament. Some filament store must really like you guys!

Okay so it's properly compiling all the files but failing at the link step (LD is the linker - it used to be called a loader). The linker needs to collect all the compiled files (I think called object files?) and combine them together and also it needs to link them with the libraries including evidently these two link libraries: SDLmain and SDL. I think the files will have the extension .s or .so maybe? I don't do linux compiling often enough obviously so I forget extension names. Or maybe they are ".lib"? I think that might be windows only. Anyway when you did the "project -> build options -> "etc it sounds like you got the right search directories for the compiler but didn't tell the linker where the link libraries are.

Worse. Definitely worse. PLA needs to cool below 50C before the next layer above is put down and having a door or a cover makes this a problem. Especially on overhangs the quality will be much worse with a front door. However pretty much EVERY other material benefits from a door and further benefits from a top cover.

Sometimes I get too much oil on my glass in one spot. Either from dripping from above or from my fingers. In this rare case sometimes I get just one spot where the PLA won't stick to the glass. I don't think that's your issue though. But cleaning the glass with soap and water and then glass cleaner fixes that issue. This is all explained in the video and much more. LIke how to apply glue to the glass (3 different ways to do it right).

You may have some underextrusion but I'd like to see a side-view to be sure. I mean it doesn't look like underextrusion to me. Nor does it look like bad layer adhesion from this top view. It simply looks like your layer height is thick so you get the "wedding cake" stepped shape. Is this PLA? PLA doesn't get adhesion issues but other filaments do and adhesion issues are easy to fix. But I don't see that on these printa. From this photo.

The bed uses MORE power at 30 degrees than 60 degrees so that is definitely not the best solution, lol. The resistance of the heater changes with temperature. Look at what other's chose for their power budget settings.

It sounds like the same problem as the original poster - it sounds like you have UM2 firmware on a UM2 extended. Somewhere in the firmware it specifies the height of the Z (about 200mm for um2 and about 300mm for extended). ALSO it's critical that after you upgrade the firmware you do a RESET TO FACTORY SETTINGS. This is because the Z height is stored both in the firmware and also in the eeprom which is separate and when you upgrade the firmware if there is already a height in there then the new firmware doesn't modify that. Actually you might simply want to try RESET TO FACTORY SETTINGS without actually updating the firmware as that alone might fix your issue.

With higher glass temp materials (pretty much EVERYTHING besides PLA) a door is a bonus. With PLA I would expect overhangs to not look as good. Especially for small parts with layers that don't take long enough to cool enough before the next layer above is added on. But with small parts you aren't as likely to get "warping" aka lifting corners. So you can lower the bed temp to 50C. And for large parts you will need 60C bed to keep them flat on the glass but it will take longer for a layer to finish so maybe the door/cover won't hurt. You can also get doors from printedSolid.com if you are in USA. They are very nice. Not sure whose doors are cheaper (printed solid versus Ultimaker).

@2go You want the bed above glass temperature for stiff materials that don't bend well. Nylon bends well so the bed can be below glass temp. For ABS and PLA which are stiffer you need the bed ideally above glass temps (around 52C and 99C). Much more detail about this in the video below. @Den door - definitely use some glue but not plain glue stick. It's not the PLA brand, lol. Here is a video I created to describe how to prevent what you are witnessing.

Pretty sure it works. Someone told me he did 0.8mm left core with pla and 0.4mm right core with pva. Also I know for sure someone who used the left core for shell and the right core for infill. You could play with this in cura before you buy anything. There's also the option of getting 3dsolex cores which allow you to swap out nozzles.

It looks pretty close to normal. Realize that in one case your rectangle has a flat top so it's all printed as a single layer making it more uniform. whereas printing the top of a sphere requires many layers. You can make it a little nicer by going with thinner layer height but the tradeoff is it will take longer.

Oh. Good reason. Well I would go for the tinker Marlin option then. It's got a lot of great features - once you try tinker Marlin you will never want to go back. Features like "resume failed print".

Here is a very simple, very good guide - the best I could find - of what CAD program one should use. Just follow answer the questions and it tells you what the best choices are. https://www.gliffy.com/go/publish/5271448

If you print at 240C and hotter it will "die" much faster than at 220C. No one seems to have a definitive answer on this issue unfortunately. Basically it works great for a while and then slowly you notice you have to print slower and hotter to avoid underextrusion and eventually you realize - "oh - it's time to replace teflon". It always creeps up on me and surprises me. I have one customer who has 3 UM2 printers going nonstop 24/7 and he says the newer teflons from UM and 3dsolex last 3 months. That's just one datapoint. I don't know what temperature he prints at. For UM3 the teflon should last pretty much forever because even though the nozzle gets to 210C or 250C the teflon shouldn't get above 100C.

http://shop.bondtech.se/ec/

It's no big deal if you forget. The oil doesn't just suddenly disappear and run out. You can see tiny tiny oil droplets in the bowden and if you forget for a few meters they don't suddenly disappear but instead there's just fewer of them. It really works amazingly well. I can understand everyone's reluctance to try something that doesn't "make sense". But it works well. Don't complain without trying it yourself.

DDG is the new bondtech feeder for UM printers. It's MUCH cheaper because it uses the existing stepper motor instead of having bondtech supply one. It looks almost identical to the existing "white" feeder aka UM2+ or UM3 feeder. But it's different inside as it uses bondtech internals.

I agree - I found with sketchup as I made modifications to my part it wouldn't keep a flat surface flat and then closing it up was getting harder and then when I wanted to modify that flat surface it was very difficult because it wasn't flat anymore and the problems just kept compounding as the part got more changes to it. This phenomenon can happen in any CAD (edits on edits on edits eventually get all messed up) but it's trivial in DSM to start over on just one area of the part - just slice off a bit with a clean cut and redesign just the part you care about. You see most cad programs think about solids. sketchup thinks about planes and curves. So with most cad programs it's trivial to add or subtract two solids together so you can punch a cylinder or square hole through your part or slice off a plane.

I only do manual leveling which doesn't heat the nozzles - auto leveling isn't a good feature as far as I'm concerned. Once levelled manually your printer will keep this level until you change cores. I've been able to avoid leveling for a month easily. But eventually I have to change nozzles or change cores. There are many problems with auto leveling but the main one is that once it has determined the tilt of your bed it compensates by moving the Z up and down for the first 10mm or so and gradually stops the compensation. This results in a part that has a tilted base. I guess I'd like to see an auto-level that doesn't compensate for bed tilt (only for height).

So I'm using cura 3.1 right now and it's on pla and temp 200C for um3. I switch to ABS and it asks if I want to "keep or discard" the changes. If you select "keep" and if you had set the temp manually then it will keep the 200C as is and not change it. Maybe that's your issue? You click "keep"? But if I select "discard" it changes the temperature to 230C. I don't see any bugs.