gr5

That would be very unreliable. Windows isn't very reliable - it does auto updates, and lots of programs on windows can cause it to reboot or "hang" due to some query "do you want to update quicktime?" and there are screen savers, monitor savers, hard drive savers, power savers. Any of those things could ruin a print if you use octoprint on a windows machine. Octoprint I think was originally designed to put on a raspberry pi and they cost like about $25. So anyway the two remaining major steps I suppose are getting octoprint to connect to your printer and getting cura to connect to octoprint. What kind of printer? I hope it's not a UM3 because I'm pretty sure octoprint doesn't connect to UM3. Anyway... Since it sounds like cura and octoprint are on the same computer. And it sounds like you opened a web browser on the same machine that has octoprint and cura and in this web browser you entered "localhost:5000" in the URL and that worked. so that's it - that's the host and port. localhost is the host (it's another way of saying "this computer that we are using" versus say some computer out on the internet or elsewhere on your LAN). Anyway and the number after the colon is the port. 5000. But if you can't get that to work then it's pretty easy in cura to instead just save to a local file and then in your web browser on octoprint you can upload that file into octoprint. That's how I usually do it as on the rare occasions I use octoprint I usually use cura 15 which doesn't have octoprint integration.

Did you install octoprint on a raspberry pi?

sketchup is not great at making 3d models but you can do it if you follow these tips: https://i.materialise.com/blog/3d-printing-with-sketchup/

Well my first thought is that you got some oil on the glass and you should clean with soap and water and then dry and clean again with glass cleaner. Then apply an invisibly thin layer of pva. But after looking at the photo - the right rear corner is even worse and looks exactly as expected if you aren't squishing enough there. So I would raise that. And raise the right edge a bit: front right screw CCW (raise glass) a half turn, front left screw CW (move down) 1/4 turn, rear screw 1/4 turn CCW (glass up). It's possible that your glass isn't flat (typically the glass is thicker in the center). It's also possible that your gantry isn't planar. In other words it's possible to be quite level at the 3 leveling screws but low in the right edge and right rear corner.

I was going to say - heat the block before changing the nozzle as plastic can act like threadlock. 150C is plenty warm for this purpose. Now that you have some plastic in the threads you will have to do this going forward. Forever. But don't worry - it's no big deal. If you do damage something you can always get a brand new Olsson block.

There's no cancel I think because there is a complicated heat up/cool down procedure to avoid problems where you get bits of plastic in the bowden jamming up and stuff (this is the summary version - don't want to go into details). Well better explanation: once filament has melted in the core there is a special cool down and you dont' want to cut power until the core drops to 180C and then the feeder pulls out some of the filament. At *that* point it's okay to cancel stuff. Anyway I removed my RFC readers because half my filament isn't UM brand anyway. Also print this wedgebot: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/wedgebot-for-ultimaker2 And use that to insert and remove filaments instead of the silly menu system. The wedgebot is THE MOST USEFUL thing I have printed for the UM3. Saves a lot of finger strain. And it snaps perfectly over the edge of the printer for storage.

ultimate 2+?? Or Ultimaker 2+?? Cura comes with profiles that are fine. I don't think anyone publishes profiles because cura comes out with new versions every month and the older profiles don't always work with newer versions. Personally if you want detailed printing and it is a small print (less than 30mm in all dimensions) then I recommend a .25mm nozzle. Also I recommend print cold and slow. So with .25mm nozzle you want to go as cold as possible - around 180C. I like relatively thick layers - 0.1mm (that's thick for a .25mm but it's easier to get good quality with thicker layers - going for thinner than that and getting just as good quality might require cleaning the Z screw or worse). Also I like slow print speeds so set ALL the print speeds to say 25mm/sec. This may take days for a small print but it should come out stunning. But really you should start with average quality and work your way down. Learn all the things that go wrong (like bad bad adhesion) before you go for 0.25mm nozzles.

You can get that silicon shield cheap. Your reseller can get it for you. If your reseller is clueless let us know and someone can get you the UM part number so the reseller can order it. Or you can lower the fan speed. It's a combination of fan and missing shield that causes this. But even 10% fan speed is full speed so try 3% max. You can connect to the UM3 through network and look at the temperature graph and see when the core is approaching 100% on and when it does lower the fan. Or you can get a higher wattage print core - the cores from 3dsolex have more wattage. I used to know this but forgot - I think UM is 25W and 3dsolex is 30-35W. disclaimer: I'm biased as I sell 3dsolex parts in USA.

3dsolex.com sells a super slippery bowden and if you are in the USA I am the distributor for those here: thegr5store.com

The model is bad. It's not manifold. If you look at it in xray mode in cura you will see red in this area most likely. If you created it yourself I can give you a nice guide to how to make manifold models - particularly in sketchup which needs a lot of extra steps to get your parts manifold. If you simply downloaded this then your best bet is to run it through the free netfabb model repairer - it only takes a few seconds: https://service.netfabb.com/login.php

@nzo do you know @labern? He is also in Auckland, NZ. He is a friend of mine. If you print it I think it will print. The biggest danger is how it attaches to the glass bed - that could come off - I'd be tempted to cut off .5mm of the bottom (set Z to -0.5mm in cura move mode) and add a brim. But I think this model will print okay without any support. It will be ugly under that "base" but it shouldn't completely fail. If you have a UM3 though then much better to print this with dissolvable support up to the base.

Well the GST has some nice features that the GS doesn't have. I totally forget what they are, but when someone told me I thought, "oh - well I'd probably switch over myself if I worked t Ultimaker and was in charge...". I don't understand why this isn't an option for you. Just to be clear about how power supplies work - the power supply will supply 24V steady no matter what happens - except if the UM tries to draw MORE than 221 Watts. So if you got say a 300 watt supply then it would also supply 24V steady just fine. The wattage stamped on the supply is the *maximum*. It's the capability. Not the amount it puts out necessarily at any given moment. Anyway - I'd go with option 2 because I'm too cheap to spend another $100 or 100 euros on a big supply like that. Also if you want to talk to customer support - this is really not the best place. Start with your reseller.

Oh god. Sketchup isn't very good for modeling solids but it's possible. Sketchup is better for virtual walk throughs. Anyway I recommend reading this: https://i.materialise.com/blog/3d-printing-with-sketchup/ First of all I already see the gray/blue areas in your sketchup screenshot is typically the *inside* surface so I would select all those, right click, and reverse the surfaces so they are white. That alone might be enough. also look at it in cura "xray view" which shows problem areas in red. There might be a double wall between the blue portion and the white portion of your print. Thirdly you can play with the "repair mesh" settings in cura. First try unchecking all of the repair options, then play with checking a few of them. Finally if none of this is helping, try sending your model through netfabb free repair web page. It's very simple. But best to fix the model in sketchup. https://service.netfabb.com/login.php

Oh and you can leave PLA filament out in a humid room for a year and there should be no problem. Other filaments (nylon, pva) you have to be very careful with but PLA and ABS don't need to be stored carefully. Just keep them below 50C, lol.

I don't know what's going on with that ring. Which way is down when printed? That woman - doesn't look good. Either you are printing maybe too hot, or not enough fan, or most likely just printing too fast. If you are playing around, then try changing the prnit speed in the TUNE menu in the middle of your print - try printing at 50% speed to see what happens. Also try lowering by 10 or 20C (separate experiments on different layers). also make sure fan is at 100%.

In cura among the cooling options there is a spot where you can set what layer or height the fan reaches full power. Check that - I like that to be around 1mm or about 5 layers. The point is if the fan comes on too quickly the temperature drops a bit on the head for maybe 20 seconds. So having it come on slowly helps with that. You want it off for the bottom layer. Anyway you can go into the TUNE menu at any point to see what the current fan speed is at any given moment. Or you can change it in there but it will change again when the next fan speed gcode is read out of the gcode file.

The different layer thickness might be because of auto-leveling. I don't use that and don't recommend it if you want your prints to be as "perfect" as possible. The way it works is it compensates for a tilt to the glass and so it prints at an angle the bottom layer and then slowly adjusts until things are level over the course of some height - I think maybe 10mm. This means the bottom of your part is going to be crooked and some sides will have the layers closer together and other's farther apart (for that bottom area - again I think maybe 10mm).

So many issues... Well the number one thing to do is get rid of the cover like neo says. Unlike most materials, PLA softens around 52C and you want it to get down at least to 60C before you print the next layer on top. So 100% fans is desired as soon as the first layer is done or within a few layers anyway. One of the photos shows a bottom corner "warping". What's happening is when it is printing about 5 to 10mm from the surface these upper layers are cooling and lifting very hard on the corners - pulling the upper layers inwards. This is EASILY fixed and best fixed by having the part stick like hell to the glass. I recommend a very thin, invisible layer of pva glue. One way is to use hair spray but then you have to remove the glass from the printer so you don't get glue in your printer. Another way is to use the supplied glue stick, spread it around a little with lots of gaps showing bare glass. Then wet a tissue and spread this around thoroughly (and also a side benefit - removing most of the glue). Or my favorite method - mix elmer's wood glue with 10 to 20 parts water (it's not an exact thing) - mix this up in a jar - shake well - then paint this watery glue onto the glass with a paint brush. heat the bed to 60C and it will dry roughly in the time it takes to get to 60C. And also make sure you are squishing the bottom layer into the glass well. Consider maybe turning the 3 leveling screws 1/3 rotation CCW to move the glass up and closer to the nozzle. Those are the easiest two things to do...

It's the power brick. It's definitely your power brick. When the UM2 first came out the power bricks had a nice margin of power but the newer bricks are borderline ready to trip. I would strongly consider trying to find one without the "T" in the name - the second one below: GST220A24-R7B GS220A24-R7B The one without the T can handle a higher power load. So why does it do it with 60C bed versus 80C bed? Well the resistance changes quite a bit with temperature. At the higher temps the bed is higher resistance and less wattage. At 40C the bed can draw more power. The UM3 uses the same power supply and the same bed but it has some new firmware that calculates the power draw of the bed at different temperatures and has power management that keeps the bed from sucking down too much power when it is still "cold". So another solution is to keep the bed hotter I suppose? Or you could buy a 24V power supply that is MUCH more than 221W. Maybe a 250W or 300W supply but you might have to cut the cable from your existing supply and solder it onto the new supply. But it's worth it. Oh!! Another solution is to get the tinker firmware. It has a power management feature. Set the bed to 160W, the nozzle to 35W and the budget to 170W. This will keep the bed from going to full power at the same time the nozzle is at full power. For example if the nozzle is on full power the software will assume it's using 35 of the 170W budget and that leaves 170-35 or 135 watts and since you told the software the bed is 160W it will not power it up more than 135/160 or 84% max when the nozzle is on. But when you are initially heating up the bed and the nozzle heater is off it will assume the bed is 160W and the budget is 170W so there will be no power limiting and it will apply full power. tinker marlin here: https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases

Short answer - cooler. More fan, lower temps. But first double check that cura sliced it the way you wanted in cura slice view. It might be that it's actually sliced like this for some reason (bad cad, strange cura setting). Notice how the base of the part also curves inward and then recovers and curves back out. This is caused because liquid PLA is like a mucus - like snot - when liquid. It sticks to itself nicely when still liquid (unlike many other materials such as PVA). So as it comes out of the nozzle it's already (in milliseconds) cooled a bit and shrunk a bit and is like a liquid rubber band and as it is placed on the bottom most layer - glass - it sticks where it is supposed to but the next layer up is pulling inwards so for a few layers it pulls inward - but as you get farther from that hot heated bed it recovers. Lowering the temp of the heated bed will improve that lower area but then your part might not stick as well so for a small part like this you could probably just lower the heated bed from 60C (typical default for PLA) to 50C. That will help the lower area and possibly the upper area. For the upper area you should be able to lower your nozzle temp another 10C. Whatever you are printing now try 5C to 10C cooler. Also it is CRITICAL that the fan be at 100% by the time it gets to the arrowed region in your photo. That could be related to the problem or the entire problem. Or it might be sliced this way - I would love to see it in slice view.

That's great news. Again, my power supply is 24V rock solid - never 26V but if the regulator can handle up to 46V maybe that's okay - but there are other specificaions to worry about - like total power dissipated which is current times voltage drop. But 26V versus 24V seems minor regarding a little extra power/heat on that regulator.

A 10 second video would be extremely helpful in diagnosing this. Although most sounds are probably harmless things.

Interesting. I would try displaying all settings related to "fan" (you can search through the settings and type "fan" in the search term) and see if that makes the problem more obvious.

There is a moderator on these forums, Didier Klein. He lives in Belgium and runs a store that sells Ultimakers and parts for Ultimakers. I have met him in person on a trip to the Netherlands. He is a nice person. We text through the internet pretty much every day. Hey, @DidierKlein - say bonjour to @diederik. This is a link to his store: http://www.ideato3d.be/product-category/3dprinters/

@yulis28 - I have two theories but want to see your print at the moment the first layer is almost done but before it starts the second layer. One theory is you need to move the nozzle closer to the bed. Some other's above seem to agree with that theory. The other theory is that some of what is the "bottom" of your print is indeed printed on the first layer, but other parts (the skinnier walls) are printed one layer up and are printed almost in the air - just above the glass. You can check this in cura layer view - see what is printed on layer 1 and what is printed on layer 2.