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You can get a really cheap UM2 PCB from china - not sure how good they are. Or get one from a UM2 reseller.

So the board has 24V? You measured the 24V actually on the board? It's probably not this but I have had weird brick issues that fix themselves after an entire day. So I would unplug that brick from AC, turn on the printer to try to drain it faster and not plug the brick back in until that little LED turns off (could be 24 hours or longer). But it sounds more like the 5V regulator. I'd probe that part. Actually is there maybe a 12V regulator also? I don't remember any longer - I haven't looked at the schematic in like a year. You have the schematic? Also feel the 5V (and 12V?) regulators to see if maybe a short on the board is causing the regulator to get real hot while it tries to send all the current to the short.

This is extremely common. Your nozzle is simply too far from the glass. Don't do any leveling - just turn the rear screw 1/2 turn CCW to move the bed up a little and try again.

Gantry consists of the 4 outer rods, and the two rods that go through the head, and the belts. These should all be parallel to the bed. But if your printer was positioned up on one corner and an elephant stepped on the opposite corner then your front frame indeed would no longer be all 90 degree corners and the gantry is no longer all parallel to a plane and instead saddle shaped where two opposite corners are higher than they should be and the other two opposite corners are lower than they should be. My friend neotko calls this situation "banana". some people call it "saddle shaped". One fix is to send it back. another fix is to put the same saddle shape (banana shape) into the glass. Using washers (as shims under the high corners) and binder clips (to hold down the low corners). This is fine for errors < 0.5mm but much larger and you will be printing saddle shaped parts - parts with a saddle-warp all the way from the bottom layer to the top layer. Ideally you want to fix the warp. Other people on this forum have fixed this by loosening screws and pushing really hard. That's all I know. I have no personal experience. The problem is *not* Ultimaker but the shipping service.

For me, I have a box on top of the printer. Unmodified. Just taped on top. when I do high temp materials like abs, nylon.

I'm guessing the bottom of your model only touches the build plate in a few sparse locations. Maybe you think the bottom of your part is flat but it isn't - if this is the case try unchecking the thing that keeps you from changing Z and move the part down a little (set Z to maybe -0.2mm) to see what happens. So to post a screenshot first save it locally on your hard drive - then click the 2nd from right most icon (image gallery). then go to the second tab (upload) and drag your picture on.

Do you mean when loading filament? I always cut my filament to a point when loading new filament. But... maybe you mean something else? How do you know it's getting stuck - I mean once the filament starts coming out of the nozzle, when you end a print and start another - it should always work fine - it's already past all the spots where it can get stuck. Unless you have brittle filament. Could that be it? Often the last meter of filament (that part not around the spool) can get quite brittle, break in the bowden, and get stuck at the print head. But I suspect you mean something else.

I seriously doubt it. UM thinks the newer one is an improvement as it is less likely to destroy your equipment or burn your house down. I would stick with the solution you came up with (using 2 supplies at the same time).

If you mount the temp sensor inside the printer you can use it to monitor the air temperature in there.

First let me say the printer itself does not need to be level. It will print on it's side. Or upside down. or any angle just fine. Yes it looks like your frame is bent. You could either send it back or just loosen all the screws a bit and force it into the right shape and re-tighten the screws. The problem is always shipping so sending it back and getting a new one might not help as the same shipping service will be used. Somehow these shipping services all seem to hire elephants that like to stand on the boxes. You should at least be able to get the print very close to level near the 3 screws, right? It's the rest of the print bed that is tough. If the bed is "saddle shaped" compared to the gantry (move the nozzle around to test) you could potentially twist the glass a bit with washers and clips into the same shape such that the nozzle prints pretty flat on the bed. Better though of course to fix the gantry (which is usually just as crooked as the box itself that the gantry sits inside of).

It sounds like there is something wrong with the leveling wizard maybe. I'd just use the ulticontroller to home Z and then hopefully X,Y are not locked and you can push the head around. If not, then use the menu item, something like "turn off motors" and you can push the head around and level with a piece of paper or just have it touching the bed gently. You should put the blue tape on before leveling because that will be a more accurate leveling. Also always clean the blue tape with isopropyl alcohol (aka rubbing alcohol) as soon as you put the tape down because if you don't it leaves a waxy surface on the tape (the stuff that keeps the tape from sticking to itself) and your prints won't stick to the blue tape.

After it homes in pronterface move it to z=10: G0 Z10 That should move it 10mm such that the nozzle and bed are 10mm apart. Actually everything is looking good in both these videos. The bottom video is just a home of x,y,z. The top also homes x,y,z and then moves the bed down a bit and homes x,y a second time. Then it seems to move the nozzle to 3 locations where the 3 screws are which I guess is some bed leveling thing that I've never tried. It actually all looks good in the videos.

I see your "second nozzle" reads 28C. Do you have a temp sensor hooked up there? Is the sensor sitting under the printer and measuring room temp (that's too hot for me, lol)? Or is it in the enclosure telling you interior air temp?

And when it *does* shut off power it is very brief - milliseconds. But enough for the arduino to reset/reboot.

The one with the "T" in the part number ("GST" versus just "GS") seems so much less reliable. It shuts off so much more easily. It has too many fail safes set to a threshold too close to normal operating values. Um switched to the newer supply around when the UM3 came out so about a year ago.

I've been preheating my nylon on the heated bed with a towel over it and getting really great results. Basically if I see *any* bubbling (it should come out clear - not like snow) then I know I didn't heat it long enough. For taulman bridge nylon, 3 hours at 95C worked for the nylon I had unspooled and placed directly on the glass. 105C worked for me also. Just unspool the qty of meters you need for your print, put those flat on the glass, put the spool on top, and a towel on top of that. Make sure your nylon doesn't melt at the temp you are heating to. (pre test a little bit of nylon at a higher temp). 80C should be a safe temp for all nylons but that might take more than 3 hours - I don't know.

I have a 4k monitor with no problems but this is a common complaint (the famous anders Olsson himself has your issue also) and there are a few fixes for this: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/2068

I doubt it's your feeder but here is a picture showing one filament where the tension was too low and another where it was a bit too high. You want it in between these two examples. Print at 1/4 speed and if it looks identical then something is wrong with your firmware. If it prints great at 1/4 speed then you are either printing too much volume (slicer settings) or it's most likely the teflon part which should be replaced often anyway.

Well not *every* posting. Just the categories I'm interested in. It's all configurable in your settings. And if you get overwhelmed with new topics it's easy to "remove all notifications" and just look at the new notifications as they come in. Well we don't have to wait long to find out. Keep in mind that the current forum is a one-off custom design written from scratch by non-experts. The new forum is based on ipBoard which is written by forum experts and has gone through many upgrades and bugfixes and feature improvements and is world class. The difference should be night and day.

It would really help to get more information from you. slicer settings. Did this printer ever work for you? did something go bad gradually or suddenly? Did you upgrade the firmware?

Try printing at 1/4 speed from the TUNE menu. Just print that robot again from the same file but once it starts up go to TUNE menu and set the feedrate to 25%. Play with that speed until it starts printing beautifully. Report back on the exact speed, temp, layer height, nozzle width setup in cura. Also report back on *all* the speed settings in cura and *all* the line width settings in cura. That way I can tell if your printer is actually normal and you are printing too cold/fast/thick or if there really is something wrong. BTW - Whenever inserting filament, make sure you cut it to a point first as it can get hung up in several locations along the path before it gets to the nozzle and cutting it to a point allows it to get through those spots.

The resistance of the bed increases with higher temperature which means it is lower wattage the hotter it gets. When the print starts it suddenly draws much more power for the 4 steppers. I'm guessing your power supply just can't quite handle the nozzle, bed, and steppers all at the same time. When the bed is a bit warmer it draws less current so everything can be on at the same time for a few seconds without losing power briefly. The brick power supply has this feature where it shuts off very briefly but then it's too late and the printer reboots. The um3 has newer firmware that is more aware of the varying wattage of the bed and does better power management. But his is a UMO? In Configuration.h I think you can limit the power to the bed. You can set it to 0 through 255 where 255 is the highest power. This feature does not work in "bang bang" mode which I think is default. I strongly do not recommend bang-bang mode as it causes all kinds of other issues also. Maybe you just need a more powerful power supply?

Are you trying to save time or avoid stringing? If you are getting stringing then lower the speed and more importantly lower the temperature by 10 to 20C. Some colors are less viscous and string more (white for example is particularly bad) and so you need to print quite a bit cooler.

Go to expert settings and under "fix horrible" uncheck everything - particularly I think "type A" is checked. Uncheck that. This will fix your drill hole issue I think. I assume this is cura 15.* as that is what the screen shot looks like. If that's not the only issue then try viewing your part in xray mode and check for any red areas. red is bad. Also in cura consider right clicking on the object and try to split it into 2 different objects. Maybe? I'm not sure if that is what you want.

You only need the top switch working. The bottom one isn't really used. Download and run pronterface and connect your printer to the computer with pronterface through USB: http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/ Then I think pronterface shows the current state of all switches. I forget if it always does this or if you have to do an M command or click something or what. You can certainly send an M119 through pronterface and the UM will report back on the state of all switches. So then push the limit switch and do M119 again and make sure pronterface shows that the endstop changed. Also in pronterface, try moving the Z axis without homing. You don't need to home it to simply move it 10mm. Make sure it moves the right direction. As z gets larger it should move downards. Z=0 should be touching the glass (but you need to home it first and of course it won't home yet). Report back what happens - maybe include a 10 second video of the homing.