gr5

The problem with this is that you can still not navigate...you need to go to the top-level...and that is when the forum fails to load...yes it fails...it does not take long time...it used to...but since a few weeks ago it fails. Well this will not matter in a few days. But I don't know what the top level means. I don't know how to get there. I don't know what it looks like. I just get notifications when someone posts a new topic - so the only way I navigate is by the little blue number over my icon. Oh - in addition to that I have a link to approve new posts where I have to check for new spam messages and delete them, and approve the rest. But if you aren't a moderator can't you just use that blue number over your icon? I guess it's silly for you to figure it out now when the new forum comes out any week now.

@shurik what's your skill set?

Well apache has proxy features. So if you already had a website where you own the primary web server, and it's apache, you can easily add a few lines into the apache config file such that for example: https://mywebsite.com/um3/ would proxy translate to your um3 as http requests. But if you don't already have an apache webserver already being used then this is more complicated.

I see it now. G90 sets all axes to absolute mode G91 sets all axes to relative mode M82 sets extruder (only) to absolute mode M83 sets extruder only to relative mode More here: http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G91:_Set_to_Relative_Positioning Well this is great. So that combined with cura lets you do all relative motions in gcode and lets you cut and paste gcode around with less issues.

@JohnK - you might want to slide all the cables into your head more. They can kind of get pulled upwards and you can get issues like this. Also know that the temp is *supposed* to change a lot if you are doing dual extruding and it should lower the temp when sitting idle. I doubt the PID values changed between firmware and that's the only thing software wise I can think of that might do bad temp swings like this. More likely it's a hardware issue.

Just copy those 2 files onto a USB flash drive, insert into the printer, and then go to through the menus and search for something like "upgrade firmware".

Unfortunately lots of things can cause this. First make sure that cura doesn't also show a missing layer - often this kind of thing is caused by a tiny hole in the model (a bad model). It could be a filament tangle. But the two parts in the top photo seem to have the problem at the same height. Do you agree? If so then it's a "Z" issue: When the Z axis moves, if it doesn't move far enough, it will overextrude on that layer. If it moves too far then you get a gap. with power off you could try moving the bed up and down to see if you feel anything. Usually the problem is fixed by cleaning the Z axis screw but it could be many things (stepper driver too hot, screw, nut, vertical rods, vertical bearings). Putting a 1kg weight such as a brick in the back of the bed once it starts printing can sometimes fix these issues or move them elsewhere. The helix is triple so if you use a toothpick and clean while spinning the screw you will miss the other 2 helixes. I recommend spending at least 2 minutes with a toothpick and tissue. You can certainly afford 2 minutes as a test, right? concentrate near the top of the screw where you are having problems (you only seem to be using the top 6cm so why clean the whole thing?). A proper cleaning involves removing the stepper and Z screw - very easy to do - the hardest part is unplugging the cable (assuming um2) (you have to remove a cover - no big deal). Then place on newspaper and spray with WD-40 and clean it completely and let dry and put ONE tiny drop of grease on it after. While the screw is out test the bed movement and see if there might be a problem with rods and/or bearings.

I can ship those things to Brazil if 3dsolex won't. I am out of bondtech temporarily but I do have the meduza upgrade which I think is just as good as the "plus" feeder and MUCH cheaper. Go here and choose what you want but then take a screen shot and email the address on the home page for a shipping quote - please order by Thursday morning as the woman doing shipments for me is out for a week starting Thursday afternoon. thegr5store.com

It's extremely common for the rear right and left corners to be lower than the rest of the bed due to the shape of the glass and the leveling procedure (the location of the 3 screws which are leveled). So that is probably the main issue. Yes you can print "one at a time" mode but it won't let you put the parts quite as close together because it assumes (incorrectly) that your parts are very tall and might hit the head. I recommend you avoid putting any parts in the rear 2 corners and also ask your reseller for some flatter glass so you can use the whole bed (test the glass first of course). First layer at 75C and second layer at a lower temperature is not a good idea because the part will shrink a bit and is more likely to warp. Keeping the glass always at 75C will be less likely to lift off the glass bed but the quality of the vertical edges won't be as good so you have to decide which is more important.

Retraction is a complicated issue. there are several settings related to retraction. The one you care about is to try to prevent the filament from grinding. I have done prints with 500 Meters of retraction. In one print! That's a half kilometer! I have found that if the same piece of filament goes back and forth 10X through the feeder it is always fine but around 20X or 40X through the feeder and your print can fail. Because of this there is a parameter that keeps you from retracting too much. I forget what it is called but something like "minimum extrusion before retraction" or "maximum retracts on same filament". Something like that. They have changed the name and I lost track. There is *also* a parameter that prevents retraction if the gap that you have to pass over is smaller than a given distance. This is unrelated to your issue above but good to know about.

I think I visualized what you are talking about - a box where the top is cut at a very steep angle. The "rasterize" I'm guessing is infill? I think you are trying to say it's putting infill where it shouldn't????? It really sound like a non manifold model. Did you create this in sketchup? If so sketchup has many issues but they can be overcome and I can point you to instructions on repairing sketchup created models or you can send your model through this: netfabb free repair service is here: https://service.netfabb.com/login.php Try looking at your model in cura in xray view. It should have no red. If there is anything that is red then you need to fix your model. Alternatively it sounds like some of your walls might be a bit too thin. If so try setting the line width settings (all of them) to something tiny jsut to see what happens. Try 0.1mm. But don't print it like that - just do this to see if your walls are too thin. Really some screen shots would be valuable.

Is the problem visible in layer view or only after you print it?

Yeah - I agree. It's really bad. Here are the common causes - this list covers UMO, UM2 and UM3 - #1 is the most common cause of underextrusion. Pay close attention to that first. If it "used to work fine" and you changed nothing (not even slicer settings) then #3 is by far the most common. Yours seems so bad I would suspect a steps/mm setting which could happen if you updated firmware or messed with steps/mm or flow on the printer. For example the UM2+ firmware on a UM2 will do exactly what is shown above. CAUSES FOR UNDEREXTRUSION AND HOW TO TEST FOR THEM AND REMEDY THEM As far as underextrusion causes - there's just so damn many. none of the issues seem to cause more than 20% of problems so you need to know the top 5 issues to cover 75% of the possibilities and 1/4 people still won't have the right issue. Some of the top issues: 1) Print slower and hotter! Here are top recommended speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers) and .4mm nozzle: 20mm/sec at 200C 30mm/sec at 210C 40mm/sec at 225C 50mm/sec at 240C The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion. Different colors print best at quite different temperatures and due to imperfect temp sensors, some printers print 10C cool so use these values as an initial starting guideline and if you are still underextruding try raising the temp. But don't go over 240C with PLA. 2) Shell width confusion. Shell width must be a multiple of nozzle size (in cura 15.X. In cura 2.X it doesn't matter as much but still makes a difference). For example if nozzle size is .4mm and shell width is 1mm cura will make the printer do 2 passes with .5mm line width which is possible but requires you to slow down much more to make a .5mm line out of a .4mm nozzle. If you really want this then set nozzle size to .5mm so it's clear what you are asking Cura to do for you. 3) Isolator - this is most common if you've printed extra hot (>240C) for a few hours or regular temps (220C) for 500 hours. It gets soft and compresses the filament under pressure. It's the white part touching the heater block. It's very hard to test when not under full pressure (spring and bowden) so sometimes it's best to just replace it. Also if you notice parts of it are very soft (the blacker end where it touches higher heat) then it's too old and needs replacing. 4) Curved filament at end of spool - if you are past half way on spool, try a fresh spool as a test. 5) curved angle feeding into feeder - put the filament on the floor -makes a MASSIVE difference. 6) UM2 only: Head too tight? Bizarrely MANY people loosen the 4 screws on the head by just a bit maybe 1/2 mm and suddenly they can print just fine! Has to do with pressure on the white teflon isolator. 6b) UM2 only: Bowden pushing too hard - for the same reason you don't want the bowden pushing too hard on the isolator. 6c) Um2 only: Spring pushing too hard. Although you want a gap you want as small as possible a gap between teflon isolator and steel isolator nut such that the spring is compressed as little as possible. 7) clogged nozzle - the number one problem of course - even if it seems clear. There can be build up on the inside of the nozzle that only burning with a flame can turn to ash and remove. Sometimes a grain of sand gets in there but that's more obvious (it just won't print). Atomic method (cold pull) helps but occasionally you need to remove the entire heater block/nozzle assembly and use flame. I found soaking with acetone does not help with caramelized pla. Even overnight. Maybe it works on ABS though. 8) Temp Sensor bad - even the good ones vary by +/- 5C and bad ones can be any amount off - they usually read high and a working sensor can (rarely) fail high slowly over time. Meaning the sensor thinks you are at 220C but actually you are at 170C. At 170C the plastic is so viscous it can barely get out of the nozzle. You can verify your temp sensor using this simple video at youtube - on you tube search for this: mrZbX-SfftU 9) feeder spring issues - too tight, too loose. On the black UM2 feeder you want the tension such that you can clearly see the diamond pattern biting into the filament. You want to see at least 2 columns of diamonds. 4 columns is too much. On the white UM2 plus and UM3 feeders you usually want the tension set in the center. 10) Other feeder issues, one of the nuts holding UM2 and UM3 together often interferes with the feeder motor tilting it enough so that it still works but not very well. Other things that tilt the feeder motor, sleeve misaligned so it doesn't get a good grip. Gunk clogging the mechanism in there. 11) Filament diameter too big - 3mm is too much. 3mm filament is usually 2.85mm nominal or sometimes 2.9mm +/- .05. But some manufacturers (especially in china) make true 3.0mm filament with a tolerance of .1mm which is useless in an Ultimaker. It will print for a few meters and then clog so tight in the bowden you will have to remove the bowden from both ends to get the filament out. Throw that filament in the trash! It will save you weeks of pain 11b) Something wedged in with the filament. I was setting up 5 printers at once and ran filament change on all of them. One was slowly moving the filament through the tube and was almost to the head when I pushed the button and it sped up and ground the filament badly. I didn't think it was a problem and went ahead and printed something but there was a ground up spot followed by a flap of filament that got jammed in the bowden tube. Having the "plus" upgrade or using the IRobertI feeder helps you feel this with your hand by sliding the filament through the bowden a bit to see if it is stuck. 12) Hot weather. If air is above 30C or even possibly 25C, the air temperature combined with the extruder temperature can soften the filament inside the feeder such that it is getting squeezed flat as it passes through the feeder - this is obvious as you can see the problem in the bowden. The fix is to add a desk fan blowing on the back of the printer. Not an issue on the UM3 or UM2 "plus" series. 13) Crimped bowden. At least one person had an issue where the bowden was crimped a bit too much at the feeder end although the printer worked fine when new it eventually got worse and had underextrusion on random layers. it's easy to pull the bowden out of the feeder end and examine it. 14) Worn Bowden. After a lot of printing (or a little printing with abrasive filaments) the bowden resistance can be significant. It's easy to test by removing it completely from the machine and inserting some filament through it while one person holds it in the U shape. Preferably i nsert filament that has the pattern from the feeder. 15) Small nozzle. Rumor has it some of the .4mm nozzles are closer to .35mm. Not sure if this is actually true. I'm a bit skeptical but try a .6mm nozzle maybe. 16) CF filament. The knurled sleeve in the extruder can get ground down smooth - particularly from carbon fill. 4 spools of CF will destroy not just nozzles but the knurled sleeve also. Look at it visually where the filament touches the "pyramids". Make sure the pyramids are sharp. 17) Hot feeder driver. I've seen a more recent problem in the forums (>=2015) where people's stepper drivers get too hot - this is mostly a problem with the Z axis but also with the feeder. The high temps means the driver appears to shut down for a well under a second - maybe there is a temp sensor built into the driver chip? The solution from Ultimaker is that they lowered all the currents to their stepper drivers in the newer firmware. Another solution is to remove the cover and use desk fan to get a tiny bit of air movement under there. TinkerMarlin lets you set the currents from the menu system or you can send a gcode to lower the current. Ultimaker lowered the default currents in July of 2015 from 1300ma to 1200ma for X,Y,Z but left extruder at 1250. Other people (I think the support team of a major reseller but I forget) recommend X,Y,Z go down to 1000mA. M907 E1250 Above sets the extruder max current to the default - 1250mA. So try 900mA. This will only change until next power cycle so if you like your new value and want to save it use M500. You can just put these into an otherwise empty gcode file and "print" this and it will change. Or get tinkergnome marlin! You will wonder how you lived without it: https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases M907 E900 M500 18) third fan broken. This tends to cause complete non-extrusion part way through a print. In the rear of the head for UM2 and the front of the head for UM3. Without this fan several things can go wrong. It can take a while as usually you also need several retractions to carry the heat upwards. There are a few failure mechanisms and I don't understand them all. One of them is probably that the molten PLA spreads out above the teflon and sticks to the metal in a core or fills the gap at the base of the bowden in UM2. Later it cools enough to keep the filament from moving up or down. 19) Spiralize/vase mode. This is a rarely used feature of Cura but you might have left it on by accident? In this mode the wall of your part is printed in a single pass. So if you have a .4mm nozzle and the wall is .8mm thick it will try to over extrude by 2X. This is difficult to do and may instead lead to underextrusion. 20) non-standard or bent fan shroud. Sometimes people print some fan shroud off of thingiverse or youmagine out of PLA or ABS. Some of these are great but most of them are crap. One needs to do good air flow modeling. Also if it's PLA it will slump and direct air differently. Air directed at the block or nozzle can cause severe underextrusion and also sometimes HEATER ERROR. Put the original shroud back on or just turn off the fan to prove that the fan is the problem.

Well it's hard to stop extrusion - it kind of never stops for long. So this re-melting process would have to be very fast but it's something that would be cool to test out.

What makes you think UM printers can't do relative extrusion? I have no idea if it can or not but it seems a pretty trivial feature and it's in the gcode definitions so I would expect it to work? Oh - but I think it's all or nothing. ALL movements have to be relative (x,y,z and e) when you switch to relative mode. Does cura support that?

There is firmware on the V1.5.7 board called "marlin". Named after the fast swimming fish that turns corners quickly. There are lots of great marlin builders that make it trivial to build your own Marlin for your own configuration: http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/ and https://bultimaker.bulles.eu/ Both of the above dont' work for UM2 but work great for UMO. Probably the second link is better. Each have their pluses and minuses of features. Before you build your own marlin though you need to learn more about your sensor. Disconnect it from any circuit and measure the resistance at room temperature and measure the temperature of the room at the same time and make notes. Then repeat at a second temperature (which won't be as accurate but what can you do). The second temperature should be at least 30 degrees hotter. Doing it at 100C (boiling temp) might work well - you could put water on the heater and stop when it starts boiling? maybe? Really you want to wrap it all up in a towel with a thermometer in there. After doing that you can look at all the thermistor tables in Marlin and see if you can find a match. Hopefully it's not a PT100 because the V1.5.7 board can't handle that. Hopefully (and likely) it's a 10K or 100K thermistor which is at 10K ohms or 100K ohms at some common temp (I think either 25C or 0C) but beware there are *many* different temperature curves for your "generic" 10K thermistor. In other words each manufacturer has a different temp table. But there are only 20 or so commonly sold 10K and 100K thermistors so yours is likely in the Marlin tables somewhere. You can look at these tables here in github. Well first I think this is still the current Marlin for UMO for V1.5.7 board - it certainly works just fine: https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin Here is the file with the thermistor tables: https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin/blob/Stable/Marlin/thermistortables.h Glancing at that table you have to know a few more things. The thermistor is in series with a 4.7K resistor typically (or noted in the comments if it's a different resistor). The arduino puts out 5V and the value measured back is with a 12 bit ADC so values go from 0 to 4096 representing 0 to 5V (actually it goes to 4096 which represents something slightly under 5V but the math works out to 5V and 4096 if I understand correctly - either way - close enough). The 5V is kind of irrelevant because it cancels out of any calculations. Note that if you look at those marlin builders, they have a drop down to choose the thermistor for your heated bed and you might want to just look through that list and try to buy one (they cost very little - pennies in bulk, maybe $1 if you buy just one) that matches exactly one in the list and just add it to your heated bed and forget about the one that came with the bed.

If your printer is on your network the easiest way is to do it right on the printer.

I've printed thousands of parts and this has never happened. I think it happens when you are printing something that is wide and flat like a hockey puck and it comes loose from the bed and the head is pushing the object around. If the part is tall and skinny this won't happen because it will instead create lots of spaghetti if the part falls over - but it won't get dragged around. Anyway this video will show you how to keep your part from every coming loose which will prevent this from ever happening again. Mostly you need to ignore the auto leveling and the calibration card and instead level directly on the glass:

It's only the first post. You are approved now so post away. We get a LOT of spammers. Some times 400 spams in one day.

I don't think so but that's a cool idea.

This is tough. You need to know if the problem is at the head or at the feeder. The problem could be at the head the pressure is very high or a clog or you are printing too fast and this causes grinding which causes it to fail. Or it could be the feeder is slipping or too loose or too many retractions (do you have a lot of retractions right in a row? that can grind down the filament) such that the feeder is causing it to grind and there is nothing wrong on the head end. That's a lot of possibilities. It would help if you knew when it was going to fail and examine the filament to see if it's grinding a lot and *almost* failing - such that the filament is no longer round after it passes into the bowden. I guess we need more hints.

Just beware that the term "jerk" has several meanings here. I think Neotko is talking about one definition which is the "marlin" definition which is the instantaneous velocity change at a corner. Or maybe he means something else - not sure. The physics definition is very different - it's the derivative of acceleration so jerk relates to acceleration as acceleration relates to velocity. Jerk is the change in acceleration. It's what throws your head around when you are driving. At the beginning and end of a hard braking in a car, your head moves because of jerk. In the middle of the hard breaking there is no jerk - just deceleration - and people's heads tend to be stable. Jerk causes motion sickness. Not acceleration. The original poster says "jerky" but we really don't know what he means without a video. We are just guessing - some of us are probably guessing close - some of us are probably misunderstanding. Without a video it's really hard to discuss this topic in a useful way.

I suspect this print would come out okay without *any* support. Especially the back in the picture as you can bridge pretty long distances as long as they are supported on both ends. Secondly, why in heavens do you need ABS - one of the most difficult materials to print. The most serious issue looks like that big crack. Is it supposed to be there - if it is, sorry, I'm just guessing. That crack is caused due to poor layer adhesion. It's telling me your entire part is going to be very weak. It may feel strong until you actually *try* to break it and you will be surprised how easily it breaks along the "grain". However there should be no grain. It should be equally strong in all directions. The fix is not simple. But it may seem simple: less fan, enclose chamber, more heat. The fan is the easiest part since you have a UM2 - I recommend around 30% - just the minimum to get the fan spinning. Enclosing is the next harder issue - you want to put a box over the top that can let air and bowden out at the rear and cover the front with clear plastic wrap or clear plastic bag. You want the air temp inside to reach 35C. Bed should be at 110C. Finally you need the right temp. Too cold and you get bad layer adhesion. Too hot and you get gummy clogs. The ideal temperature is very small range - maybe 5C. Unlike PLA which prints great from 180C to 240C. I recommend around 240C for ABS. Maybe 245C. If you get clogs drop the temp by 3 to 5C. Or print faster. Don't let the filament sit around for a few minutes at temps > 220C as it will likely form a gummy clog. But there are better materials than ABS that can give you high temp resistance or strength. What property were you looking for that pushed you to try ABS?

many people complain of this on the UM2 but the print head is not symmetrical - the nozzle is over towards one side - so it actually *does* print symmetrical - it just doesn't print symmetrical on the print bed. I think you should ask people over at mark forged forums.

The shorter, the easier (so 3mm isn't too bad). Rounder is easier as well. And the less infill the better for warping. I guess the main thing is that the bottom layer squishes well into the glass but here's everything you ever wanted to know to get your parts to never ever warp off the glass: