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oh. sorry. This got lost. Well you have so many choices I don't know where to start. Well you could edit the cura profiles. When you choose those drop downs it combines the profile files. They are under the cura folder. You can edit those and restart cura (restarting is a critical step - cura only reads the files on startup) and choose pla or whatever and you will get the settigns you saved there. This is not recommended because when you upgrade cura you will lose all your work. You can create your own user profiles. Exactly the same as the existing profile files but put them in %appdata%/cura/ (or maybe %localappdata%/cura I forget). But sometimes the profiles are incompatible with a newer version of cura (they should be fine - it's not likely you'll use a parameter that goes away). Or you can use "save project". This saves your model *and* all the settings. So you can load that up later and delete the model and put in a new model. Or you can save your own profiles from within cura. This is probably the easiest. Or if you rarely change any settings you can just change them in cura and as long as you don't load any new profiles they will get saved. Which of these many options sounds like what you were looking for?

I have left PLA out doors for a few years now exposed to sun and rain and it still has the original color, look, feel, etc. It has no visible erosion or decay. Although paint might make a better water tight seal. If you do decide to paint I recommend any automotive primer spray paint (should say it's for plastic and metal) followed by any exterior paint, followed by several layers of clear coat. Easiest if all 3 are spray paint from an auto parts store but hardware stores should have all this as well. I'm told acrylic paints also stick well to PLA.

By the way, there is power management on the UM3 series such that it will never send full power to the bed and both nozzles at the same time. And nozzles take priority. So if you are doing a manual preheat, and you also preheat the nozzles, the bed will take significantly longer than if nozzle heat is off. That's why when you choose PRINT it heats up the bed first until it is within about 3C of target temp before starting the nozzles.

lol. Well a quick hack is to scale up your models in 2X in the Z direction only (cura can do this if you unlock the axis) and then set flow to 50%. What kind of printer do you have? If it's a Ultimaker original these are both fantastic: http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/ or https://bultimaker.bulles.eu/ Basically you need to change steps/mm and double that value. If you have UM2 you can get tinkermarlin and adjust it right from the front panel. First tell me your printer (it's okay if it's a prusa) and then I can tell you more details of how to build Mariln.

There was a large break between 15.X and 2.X. I'm not surprised that you can't. Instead you'll have to import it to 15.X and look at every setting and write them down and manually type them into 2.X.

If you follow my suggestions to getting your parts to stick like hell the rumbling can be ignored but if it really bugs you then you can indeed get rid of it. If it's the same rumbling I have experienced, then it's caused by bad quality infill. The strings of infill break and build up in some spots but not others. It's also mainly caused by underextrusion of the infill. Cura 2.X by default prints infill faster. Usually too fast. So change the infill speed to be the same as the default printing speed. Also sometimes the line width on the infill is smaller than the nozzle. I recommend you set that back up to be the same as nozzle width. Or at least very close (I had a .4mm infill with a .8mm nozzle once - not very strong infill). Or just get rid of infill. I find it's less necessary than you might think. Or try that really cool gradual infill feature where it does less infill in the more open areas of the print. That really speeds things up significantly without hurting strength (usually). But you really have to tweak it quite a bit (the two numbers that affect the variable infill amounts).

4.5 minutes to 60C looks normal. 15 minutes to final temp looks normal (it takes a long time!). If your air temp is for example 20C and there is even a slight breeze from air conditioners then 90C seems like a reasonable top temperature. If you are printing ABS or Nylon or other materials that need the heated bed at 100C or 110C then you also benefit greatly by covering the front and the top. So that seems reasonable to me. You can speed things up by using a hair dryer or a heater in the bottom of the printer during this process (be careful as once it heats up the bed might crush your heater). I always thought it would be good to have a silicone heater in the bottom of the print bed hooked up to AC power. But never tried it. You can also speed things up by putting a cloth (a t-shirt?) or some insulating foam or packing materials on the bed while it heats up but that requires that you sit at the printer and also you won't be heating the air around the bed so I don't do that very often.

The answer is above - find the post with the photo of the cable with rainbow color wiring. 4 posts above this post.

Here are my instructions for building tinker Marlin: How to build ultimaker2 marlin on windows Get the source code from github and put somewhere on your hard drive. I'm not going to give you a tutorial on github - there's a lot to github features alone - you can simply download the zip but if you plan to edit it's best to install git and clone the project. If you want to submit bug fixes you absolutely have to create your own github account and create a fork, make changes, test changes, push changes to github and then send a pull request. Ultimaker's source is here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin Ultimaker2 plus is here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/UM2.1-Firmware tinkermarlin - a variant which is better is here: https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin First know that the IDE is code::blocks. We need SDL 1.2 and arduino IDE and mingW compiler. Start with mingw compiler: Install arduino compiler from here - version 1.6.10 works but newer versions should be fine - put it into a path with no spaces (not program files which has a space): https://www.arduino.cc/en/main/software mingw gcc get here: https://sourceforge.net/projects/mingw/files/ Near the top is a setup.exe file. After it installs it launches the installation manager - at this point nothing useful is installed. Next mark packages mingw32-base and mingw32-gcc-g++ (c++ compiler) to be installed and then menu item "installation" "update catalogue". Wait for this to finish. sdl get here: https://www.libsdl.org/download-1.2.php then get the win32 version near the bottom mingw32 version of sdl - this gets us SDL.h and sdl.dll from the gzip file copy the bin\sdl.dll file into c:\mingw\bin\ and lib\* to c:\mingw\lib\* and \include\SDL folder to c:\mingw\include\ such that there are many .h files named SDL*.h in c:\mingw\include\SDL\ optionally copy SDL.dll to c:\windows so it can be found more easily. If there is already an SDL.dll there don't overwrite it - yikes. codeblocks - you only need codeblocks if you want to create a simulation but you should definitely do this - it allows you to break on a line of code and test so many things! But if you write perfect code everytime then skip codeblocks. http://codeblocks.org I recommend installing this last or at least after mingw or restart it after installing mingw. After codeblocks is installed After launching codeblocks I think it asked me for a project file what was in the source tree here: .....\MarlinSimulator\UltiLCD2_Sim.cbp In code::blocks menu click "build" "build". You should get no errors in bottom "build messages" window. Click menu "debug" "start/continue" and it should pop up the simulator and boot. Simulator shows screen and position of x,y,z axis graphically and more. Before starting your program you can add a breakpoint in codeblocks on a particular line of code - right click on the number to the left of your line of code and add a breakpoint. Then click the play button called "debug" (versus the play button titled "run"). When the simulator gets to that line it wall pause and you can examine variables (right click and add to watch). building the hex files: you need to launch the mingw64 shell - it looks like a dos window but better. I don't know how to launch that but it came for free with my installation of git gui (from the git website). You build like this - get to the marlin folder and do: ./package.sh But it will fail the first time. You need to set a few things up. edit this package.sh file and add this line below the other arduino_path definitions: ARDUINO_PATH=c:/Arduino (or change to wherever you installed arduino ide - again - no spaces in path allowed!). You should probably double check that this file is in this exact path: c:/arduino/hardware/tools/avr/bin/avr-gcc.exe If not, then you probably need to modify AVR_TOOLS_PATH in marlin/Makefile. I didn't have to modify that. You don't have to do anything with ARDUINO_VERSION unless you are using a version before 1.0.0 in which case you should probably get a newer arduino ide anyway. Also I had to redefine MAKE by adding the following line in package.sh - this is where mingw32 installed for me (/c/ is the equivalent of c:\) MAKE=/c/MinGW/bin/mingw32-make

Hmm. I'm not familiar with that branch. Most recent edit is about a year ago. You should probably start with a version of tinkerMarlin instead. There are dual extruder versions and changing Configuration.h to disable heaters is easy. Or you can just use a single gcode to allow cold extrudes. It has more recent activity and the author is on this forum: @Tinkergnome https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin

It's almost certainly a loose pulley. I have explained this to at least 100 people now and they are skeptical but... it's almost always a loose pulley. First step is to determine if it's the X versus the Y axis that slipped. Now that the print is removed that's a little tricky - you need to remember the orientation. If this is a UM2 or UMO then there are 6 (some cases 5) but definitely NOT 4 pulleys that need to be tightened. There are set screws on each one. Tighten the hell out of those. So hard you are scared you might break something. In particular it's usually the pulley on the stepper motor or the other one on that short belt. By far it's a short belt pulley - much more likely than the 4 long belt pulleys. If you don't believe me mark the shaft and pulley of the motor with a sharpie and the other 5 pulleys and you will see that one of them slipped.

I know it's frustrating but... oiling the rods? lol. Okay here are some ideas for you - my latest list of possibilities to run through: CAUSES FOR UNDEREXTRUSION AND HOW TO TEST FOR THEM AND REMEDY THEM As far as underextrusion causes - there's just so damn many. none of the issues seem to cause more than 20% of problems so you need to know the top 5 issues to cover 75% of the possibilities and 1/4 people still won't have the right issue. Some of the top issues: 1) Print slower and hotter! Here are top recommended speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers) and .4mm nozzle: 20mm/sec at 200C 30mm/sec at 210C 40mm/sec at 225C 50mm/sec at 240C The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion. Different colors print best at quite different temperatures and due to imperfect temp sensors, some printers print 10C cool so use these values as an initial starting guideline and if you are still underextruding try raising the temp. But don't go over 240C with PLA. 2) Shell width confusion. Shell width must be a multiple of nozzle size. For example if nozzle size is .4mm and shell width is 1mm cura will make the printer do 2 passes with .5mm line width which is possible but requires you to slow down much more to make a .5mm line out of a .4mm nozzle. If you really want this then set nozzle size to .5mm so it's clear what you are asking Cura to do for you. 3) Isolator - this is most common if you've printed extra hot (>240C) for a few hours or regular temps (220C) for 500 hours. It gets soft and compresses the filament under pressure. It's the white part touching the heater block. It's very hard to test when not under full pressure (spring and bowden) so sometimes it's best to just replace it. Also if you notice parts of it are very soft (the blacker end where it touches higher heat) then it's too old and needs replacing. 4) Curved filament at end of spool - if you are past half way on spool, try a fresh spool as a test. 5) curved angle feeding into feeder - put the filament on the floor -makes a MASSIVE difference. 6) Head too tight? Bizarrely MANY people loosen the 4 screws on the head by just a bit maybe 1/2 mm and suddenly they can print just fine! Has to do with pressure on the white teflon isolator. 6b) Bowden pushing too hard - for the same reason you don't want the bowden pushing too hard on the isolator. 6c) Spring pushing too hard. Although you want a gap you want as small as possible a gap between teflon isolator and steel isolator nut such that the spring is compressed as little as possible. 7) clogged nozzle - the number one problem of course - even if it seems clear. There can be build up on the inside of the nozzle that only burning with a flame can turn to ash and remove. Sometimes a grain of sand gets in there but that's more obvious (it just won't print). Atomic method (cold pull) helps but occasionally you need to remove the entire heater block/nozzle assembly and use flame. Or soak it in acetone overnight (after removing 90% of the material with cold pull). 8) Temp Sensor bad - even the good ones vary by +/- 5C and bad ones can be any amount off - they usually read high and a working sensor can (rarely) fail high slowly over time. Meaning the sensor thinks you are at 220C but actually you are at 170C. At 170C the plastic is so viscous it can barely get out of the nozzle. You can verify your temp sensor using this simple video at youtube - on you tube search for this: mrZbX-SfftU 9) feeder spring issues - too tight, too loose 10) Other feeder issues, one of the nuts holding machine together often interferes with the feeder motor tilting it enough so that it still works but not very well. Other things that tilt the feeder motor, sleeve misaligned so it doesn't get a good grip. Gunk clogging the mechanism in there. 11) Filament diameter too big - 3mm is too much. 3mm filament is usually 2.85mm nominal or sometimes 2.9mm +/- .05. But some manufacturers (especially in china) make true 3.0mm filament with a tolerance of .1mm which is useless in an Ultimaker. It will print for a few meters and then clog so tight in the bowden you will have to remove the bowden from both ends to get the filament out. Throw that filament in the trash! It will save you weeks of pain 11b) Something wedged in with the filament. I was setting up 5 printers at once and ran filament change on all of them. One was slowly moving the filament through the tube and was almost to the head when I pushed the button and it sped up and ground the filament badly. I didn't think it was a problem and went ahead and printed something but there was a ground up spot followed by a flap of filament that got jammed in the bowden tube. Having the "plus" upgrade or using the IRobertI feeder helps you feel this with your hand by sliding the filament through the bowden a bit to see if it is stuck. 12) Hot weather. If air is above 30C or even possibly 25C, the air temperature combined with the extruder temperature can soften the filament inside the feeder such that it is getting squeezed flat as it passes through the feeder - this is obvious as you can see the problem in the bowden. The fix is to add a desk fan blowing on the back of the printer. Not an issue on the UM2 "plus" series. 13) Crimped bowden. At least one person had an issue where the bowden was crimped a bit too much at the feeder and although the printer worked fine when new it eventually got worse and had underextrusion on random layers. it's easy to pull the bowden out of the feeder end and examine it. 14) Small nozzle. Rumor has it some of the .4mm nozzles are closer to .35mm. Not sure if this is actually true. I'm a bit skeptical but try a .6mm nozzle maybe. 15) CF filament. The knurled sleeve in the extruder can get ground down smooth - particularly from carbon fill. 4 spools of CF will destroy not just nozzles but the knurled sleeve also. Look at it visually where the filament touches the "pyramids". Make sure the pyramids are sharp. 16) Hot feeder driver. I've seen a more recent problem in the forums (>=2015) where people's stepper drivers get too hot - this is mostly a problem with the Z axis but also with the feeder. The high temps means the driver appears to shut down for a well under a second - maybe there is a temp sensor built into the driver chip? The solution from Ultimaker is that they lowered all the currents to their stepper drivers in the newer firmware. Another solution is to remove the cover and use desk fan to get a tiny bit of air movement under there. TinkerMarlin lets you set the currents from the menu system or you can send a gcode to lower the current. Ultimaker lowered the default currents in July of 2015 from 1300ma to 1200ma for X,Y,Z but left extruder at 1250. Other people (I think the support team of a major reseller but I forget) recommend X,Y,Z go down to 1000mA. M907 E1250 Above sets the extruder max current to the default - 1250mA. So try 900mA. This will only change until next power cycle so if you like your new value and want to save it use M500. You can just put these into an otherwise empty gcode file and "print" this and it will change. Or get tinkergnome marlin! You will wonder how you lived without it: https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases M907 E900 M500

Those areas are the stepper drivers which have nothing to do with the heated bed. Will the bed heat up if you manually set the temp?

Some filaments and feeder wheel combinations are more likely to grind up the filament at the feeder. Anyway the solution is to reduce retractions. What slicer are you using? Are you using cura 2.X? or Cura 15.X? Those slicers both have settings (different settings) that can limit the number of retractions on any one given spot of filament. I found that 10 retractions on any given spot is pretty safe and should not fail. And the stringing shouldn't be too excessive either. So answer my question and I'll answer yours.

I've never seen that before. Did you print from the USB stick? If so I would copy the gcode file from USB back to your hard drive and compare it to the original .gcode file if you have it. Also open the gcode in a text editor and jump down to that line: 210246. I'm guessing that area of your gcode file is all corrupt. If it is corrupt I would NOT delete the gcode file but rename it to "bad" or something so you never use that part of the USB again. Is it possible you pulled the USB drive out of your computer before it finished copying? Or maybe you should get a new USB drive. The USB stick that came with my UM3 was very unreliable. I replaced it with a cheap one from amazon ($8?) and have had no problems since.

Ah. I see. It would probably reach fine for the right side (facing the back of the machine) but not the left side where the added extruder is. You are probably one of the few doing the mark2 upgrade on the extended. fbrc8 probably won't help. You should reach out to friends and find one who loves to solder.

So there are these things called "plugins". I would look at one of the existing, working plugins and modify it. It's probably only one or two lines of code that you have to modify. Basically change M109 to ;M109 (the semicolon comments it out). If you are successful then you can post your plugin to the forum!

I assume you are printing ABS or similar high glass temp material. It can be printed at 90C but it works MUCH better at 105C to 110C. To get it up to that temperature you basically need to cover the machine. For example sometimes I use a 1 gallon plastic bag (with nothing in it) to cover the *front* of the machine (Ultimaker sells a nice front cover as well). And for the top of the machine I use those boxes that copier paper comes in. It's the perfect size. No cutting necessary. Flip it over onto the top of your UM3 such that there is a big gap towards the back for the machine to let the bowden in.

Ah! Extended. Right. well that's probably the problem. Is there an "extended" plus kit that is different than the regular plus kit? You could email support@fbrc8.com and see if maybe you got the wrong plus kit and if they can send you a stepper with proper length cables. Well maybe you have a friend who is good at soldering? This is an easy project. Any old speaker cable will do. You want wiring that is the same diameter (metal conductor diameter -not insulation diameter) or larger than current wires. It's best to twist the wiring as that decreases how much radio waves it puts out (you don't want it to interfere with your cell phone reception). If you do it yourself consider also getting some heat shrink tubing which shrinks to half it's size when heated with a candle flame. This will make your repair look much more professional and it will be more durable and strong.

Could you please post a photo? Was it colorfabb? What brand of PLA? @cloakfiend - note post above.

Does it sizzle and hiss? If so it may be wet. That's a common problem with nylon but I haven't heard of water issues with ABS.

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/5094-raised-edges

Do a "Reset to factory settings". There are values about print volume and such that can get corrupted during a firmware upgrade. The only bad thing about this is that you will have to relevel which you probably should try anyway. So go for it.

3dsolex has them. They converted easily 100 UM cores to "hardcores" early on (before they had their own circuit board) so send them an email asking for one or two of the nozzles - they are sitting in a bin and they don't know what to do with them. They'll be happy to sell you one or two. Do it soon before they get busy again next week. Tell him if you want AA or BB. They have tiny markings on the side of the nozzle (aa or bb).

What was your shell setting in spiralize? If it was 0.8mm shell and .4mm in spiralize mode then what is happening is it is makeing two .4mm passes in normal mode but in spiralize mode it makes a single .8mm pass (effectively doing 200% flow except... a few other details are different as well like position the head moves over). so one way to get this watertight is to set the shell to 0.8 and nozzle to 0.8 (even though you have a 0.4mm nozzle). However if you do this I recommend you slow it down a lot to avoid underextrusion. I'd try 20mm/sec. So I would try those 2 changes - nozzle to 0.8 and speed to 20mm/sec. If you get any underextrusion maybe raise the temp by 10C but try it without raising temp first. In fact as it prints you can look at the quality and play with speed and temp a little.