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Yes but it shouldn't hit the front after homing. This is in the firmware. I think you have to compile your own custom firmware. I have instructions but it's pretty involved. I'm wondering why it would hit the front. I was hoping you would say you had a um2go and you had the wrong firmware (um2 firmware on um2go). Changing the firmware is a lot more work than fixing your hardware issue. Maybe some portion of the print head is sticking out to the front more than normal? Like the fan shroud? Or maybe the two skinnier metal rods that go through the print head are not perpendicular? These are easy to fix. Or maybe the homing switch is positioned a bit wrong. With power off I would push the head around a bit - first see how much farther it can move after hitting the homing switch. Look at what is hitting the homing switch (should be the left/right rod that passes through the head but left of the block). When the head is at the front of the printer is everything perpendicular? What hits first? It's supposed to be the head against the slider block. Is the slider block at the front vertical? After checking these things out if you still have no idea could you show a video of it homing and then hitting the front?

The reason slower is better is mostly I believe because the extruder is not so good at stopping and starting. If you have a speed at the "jerk" speed (which is 20mm/sec) or not too much faster (up to around 30mm/sec) then the extruder gets to mostly go at a constant speed (no acceleration and deceleration). Basically the "jerk" speed is roughly the allowed instantaneous velocity vector magnitude change at a corner. So if you go into a corner at 14mm/sec and leave it at 14mm/sec the overall velocity change turns out to be 20mm/sec. I believe it's partly this slowing down and speeding up that causes some of the quality issues. At some point going even slower doesn't seem to improve quality. I have seen better benchys I think with .4mm nozzle so I'm hoping your .1mm layer height experiment will be even better. Also in cura 2.* when you set the speed to "30mm/sec" there are probably 4 or 5 other printing speeds that can be things as high as 60mm/sec so I would display all speeds and keep them all at or below 30mm/sec. Also keep the travel speed fast. At least 150mm/sec. I still think 195C is MUCH TOO HOT. Please try 180C. Please.

What kind of printer is this? This is the part that primes. You could increase from 3mm to 6mm. G1 F200 E3 A few lines above this it goes to position Z15. Does that at least work? Does it move such that the nozzle is 15mm above the printer right after homing? The biggest difference I see is the "T0". That selects extruder 0 or "tool zero". Maybe your printer needs that or it won't extrude. I would put that before any temperature settings and especially add it to the lines that set the temperature: M104 and M109. I'm guessing your brand of printer will not heat up the nozzle without that T0 in there and the extruder won't extrude if the nozzle is still cold.

What kind of printer is this. When you home the printer does it home normally or does it collide then also?

Contact @swordriff at 3dsolex if you haven't already. Yours may be defective and he is quite good about exchanging plus he might be interested in examining your hardcore carefully to learn about possible potential manufacturing issues.

I was talking about UM2. UM3 teflon shouldn't have much pressure on it (if assembled correctly) as it is sitting in a cylindrical gap that never changes. Also the ptfe in the um3 never gets above probably 100C (versus 220C typical printing temps for pla in the UM2).

So if your part is EXACTLY 20mm tall. And each layer is exactly .2mm tall including the bottom layer. Your result should be 100 layers, right? Is it exactly 100 layers in cura? Or is it 99? I'm guessing 99.

Well one thing I didn't mention last time is to calibrate the Z axis. You can put the um3 into developer mode and then use ssh to connect to your printer's IP address. username/password are ultimaker/ultimaker. This puts you into a powerful utility. Try homing the Z axis: G28 Z0 Try moving the Z axis to position 10 (10mm from nozzle to glass): G0 Z10 Now move the Z axis to another position far away - say maybe 160mm from nozzle to glass: G0 Z160 Measure how far the Z axis moved. You need to measure this quite accurately. If you were getting .2mm error on a 20mm print that is only 1%. 1% at 160mm is now 1.6mm - a bit easier to measure but still. If it is off then you need to adjust the steps/mm setting. That *might* be somewhere in the menu system on the front of the printer - not sure - but it would be nice to eliminate this. I seriously doubt it's out by as much as 1%. The parts involved tend to be more accurate than that.

Look for something like "shell width"

It looks like 2 different issues: 1) underextrusion on first two photos and also on the final photo at the very top of the print (it stopped extruding completely) 2) The roof supports (room walls) of benchy are - well really bad. I think problem #2 is because you are printing too hot. 190C is too hot I think. I would try 180C. make sure fans are at full power also. You need more cooling with smaller parts like this. And you might want to print a tower next to benchy for when you get to the top of benchy to let it have time to cool. Also problem #2 might be better if you print slower and with thicker layers. The walls are almost non-existant. Which slicer are you using? I'm guessing cura 2.* (not cura 15.* or s3d?)???? There are issues with cura 15.* that could cause these if you don't have the settings quite right. Underextrusion issue: I'm not sure but my leading theory is too many retractions. With a .05mm layer height and with quite a few retractions per layer you are getting the same piece of filament going back and forth through the feeder many times. Potentially 50 times on the same piece of filament. And because you are printing so slow volume-wise you might want to try lowering the feeder spring pressure to the minimum (top value - insert hex driver into the top of the feeder and rotate and you can see the indicating moving up or down - all the way up is the least pressure). Or just go with thicker layer height. Try 0.1mm. Your resolution in XY is very roughly half the nozzle diameter (0.125) so why not match that in Z and do 0.1mm layer height? I would start by doing the .1mm layer height and 180C temp. Then if that works, try decreasing layer height and decreasing spring tension. Don't forget to put the spring back to half way when doing .4mm prints though! Underextrusion could also be clogging I suppose so definitely do a cold pull to remove any particles such as a little piece of teflon or something in the nozzle causing partial clogging. If you have a needle that fits inside the nozzle that would help push any clogs into the filament before you do the cold pull.

The autoleveling unfortunately only compensates for a tilted plane. It doesn't do 9 point leveling and compensate "U" shapes. I had the same problem and fixed it by bending up the rear 2 corners (with the glass off). In addition most tempered glass is taller in the center (thicker). But by bending up my aluminum plate I fixed the issue. But if you bend it too much you will crack the trace on the heated bed and that's a problem. There were several non-flat glass plates - I would simply ask your distributor for a flatter one than the one you already have. You won't even have any down time. Or alternatively put a washer between the glass and the bed in the far right corner.

Most likely the power brick. Contact your reseller.

What I do is loosen the 4 thumb screws, attach the bowden normally and then tighten the 4 thumb screws which pushes the bowden into the teflon part.

Cura intersects planes with your model. if your layer height is .2 and the top most plane that intersects with your model is .1999 below the top it will skip the last layer so part of your error is probably this intersection issue. So height error can be almost as large as layer height. Also click on the part in normal view and click the "move" icon on the edge and make sure Z=0. Also it's good to level the nozzle a bit close to the glass to squish the first layer well but this can add about another .2mm of error (shorter). Add those 2 errors and you can easily get .3mm. I recommend you just make your model taller by .3mm but in theory you could twist the 3 leveling screws a bit to get .1 or .2mm of correction (but then your parts may come free from the glass during a print) and lower the layer height a bit (but then your print will take longer).

cura tends to do some autoscale sometimes when a part is too big. When you load the part into cura, click on the part and then on the edge click on the scale icon and make sure all the scaling is set to 100%. If that's not it then please explain by exactly what percentage is one part smaller and which one is the wrong size, the larger portion or the smaller? I'm pretty sure your error is huge (10%?) and so it's probably cura autoscaling when it really shouldn't in your case.

I don't know the answer exactly but you are on the right track. #4 - don't worry about that. It's either obviously broken into too many pieces or it's fine. It could be dust. Its more likely grinding happens first. Does it make popping bubbly noises when it prints? If so that is the sound of boiling water. That could esily be the problem as it produces too much head pressure (maybe) which causes grinding (maybe) and then the pva bakes in the nozzle for 20 minutes when no one is paying attention and clogs. Unfortunately it might not be possible to dry it. I'd read up about how other people dry their pva but I suggest you buy some new pva and keep it in a box with dessicant even while printing with a hole to let the filament out. Or at least store the pva in air tight bag when not in use even if just for a few hours. nylon is pretty easy to dry. Not sure about pva. Meanwhile until you get a new reel read about how other people dried their pva and also lower the right core by 5C. Also consider getting a "hardcore" form 3dsolex because then you can just change nozzles and clean them by soaking them for a few days (disclaimer I sell 3dsolex products in usa).

Normally you put in the height in mm. So if for example you want to change the color of the filament 5.1mm from the bottom you enter 5.1. Then when it gets to a layer above 5.1 it pauses. Some of these plugins will alternatively work with layer number.

I don't know if cura 2.* still can connect to a printer through USB. Does anyone else know? Cura is more of just a slicer only. For printer control of a USB based printer I recommend pronterface. Maybe you want your slicer and printer controller all in one program but Cura has been moving away from that at for a few years (and is now moving back towards that but with ethernet and UM3 only).

Does it at least give you the menu system on the front panel? Or does it not even boot? If you have the menu system - put it into developer mode and then connect it to wired (I hate wireless in general) ethernet. The screen will tell you the printer's IP address within a few seconds after you connect the cable. However it sounds like maybe during the firmware upgrade it didn't do a full upgrade and now it's "bricked"? The only fix from that state (if that is the current state) is to take the bottom cover off and insert an SD card that already has the correct operating system software installed. then you turn on power and that will load in a new operating system. It can take 5 to 20 minutes depending on how fast the SD card is. Anyway you should contact your reseller as no one on the forum has posted a link to the iso file that needs to go onto the SD card. I have a proprietary one but you definitely don't want that version of the firmware.

Well maybe this version has the settings you need? http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/'>http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/ What error message did you get? Maybe you should post that. Here are old instructions from a few years ago. The problem is the source code on github has probably advanced a great deal. Hopefully you know where to get the actual source code and not some much-newer version: BUILDING ULTIMAKER ORIGINAL MARLIN thermistor tables: https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin/blob/Marlin_v1/Marlin/thermistortables.h'>https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin/blob/Marlin_v1/Marlin/thermistortables.h First get the source code. UMO files here: https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin Then edit Configuration.h this is by far the hardest step and it's not bad. I recommend you go here: http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/ or https://bultimaker.bulles.eu/ and use that website only to get the Configuration.h file. Then run winmerge or some other diff program to compare the latest ErikZalm version of Configuration.h to the one from robotfuzz which is usually a few months behind. Edit the ErikZalm version to match the robotfuzz generated version. Make any other edits as necessary. It sound complicated but it is extremely clear and well commented. Sometimes with paragraphs of explanation. configuration.h file detailed explanation: http://airtripper.com/1145/marlin-firmware-v1-basic-configuration-set-up-guide/ Then you need to build Marlin. There are instructions that come with the erik zalm download in the "README.md" text file. Basically you download and install arduino ide: http://arduino.cc/en/main/software Then copy the sanguino software as explained in README file. Open Marlin.ino file in Arduino IDE by double clicking it (not pde file as stated in README - I think that's old). Select board as "Mega 2560" as explained in README file. Go to "file" "preferences" and select "verbose output" so you can find your hex file. Then build it by clicking the check box in the upper left corner. At the bottom you will see it compiling Marlin. At the end of this it says where the hex file is. If you are currently connected to your UM through USB you can just click "file" "upload" and you are done! But you should locate that hex file and save it somewhere along with the Configuration.h file used to create it so you can recreate the same version with maybe one change. Also you can upload the hex file using Cura in expert menu. The actual ultimaker firmware is built with make file and doing it that way generates a smaller more compact firmware but doing it through the IDE works fine. I've done it many times. Alternatively you can build Marlin with somewhat more detailed step by step instructions the command line way (which I don't prefer): http://www.extrudable.me/2013/05/03/building-marlin-from-scratch/

I recommend you don't go over 4.5mm. If you retract too much air can get in the nozzle and then very quickly eat up and meanwhile there is filament at the bottom of the nozzle and so that heated air creates pressure and pushes some filament out and then more air can get in... Later when you start extruding there is an air pocket in there. It's fine at first and then it might stop extruding for a while. I could be wrong about all this but definitely it doesn't make sense to me to retract more than the standard 4.5mm unless your bowden is loose. Better to lower the temperature much more when not printing? Or maybe use a wipe shield?

First of all I assume you are in reprap mode as the UM2 and UM3 support a weird mode called ultigcode but can also do reprap mode. Every other printer in the world does normal gcodes basically. The extrusion is in mm length of filament. So it matters the diameter of the filament. For example lets say you print a "line" of filament 100mm long. Let's say the nozzle is .4mm wide and the layer height is .1mm. The volume of filament is 100*.1*.4 or 4 cubic mm. If you have 1.75mm diameter filament the area of that filament is PI * (1.75/2) ^2 or 2.4 mm^2 area. 4 / 2.4 gives you 1.666mm of travel for E axis. So if E had been at position zero and x,y was at 0,0 then you could do something like G0 X100 Y0 E1.666 You can also reset the extruder (or any axis) with G92 command so for example even if extruder is 2 meters into a print job you can do: G92 E0 G0 E1.666 and it would extrude the amount of filament for a 100mm long line at .1mm layer height and .4mm nozzle width. That's how Cura does it.

This is an Ultimaker forum. The people here don't know much about other printers out there. I've never even heard of a monoprice mini, sorry. Or if I did I forgot. And I have heard of about 30 different printers out there.

The motion planner code in Marlin is quite complex and still has some bugs in it. When you do basic motions where only x,y,e axes are moving, most of the time, the actual accelerations are reasonable. But sometimes you get very high accelerations and you lose steps on a motor or a pulley slips. I strongly suspect it is not the slicer's fault - it's just that you have higher acceleration somewhere. To prove if the problem is with the pulleys, use a sharpie pen. A permanent marker pen. And mark all SIX pulleys (for the slipping axis or all 12 pulleys) and rods with the marker to see if the pulley slipped during the print where you get this axis shift. If the problem is NOT an axis slip then you should be able to narrow it down to just a hand full of gcodes where the problem occurs. It sounds like very close to a Z move and there are bugs in marlin when the Z axis *and* X or Y are also moving. You could just separate the move into two separate moves (move Z first) and possibly also lower the feedrate. This fix is more work and only fixes one gcode file and will definitely solve your problem temporarily regardles if it is a loose pulley or just too much acceleration for the stepeprs to perform.. But fixing the pulley is the better solution and more permanent.

wtf? What is that? Take that spring out. There shouldn't be a spring there. I think someone played a joke on you? Do you have a 3 year old who puts things in places?