gr5

Probably a reporter. Probably already published the story and will ignore you. If you don't get back to them in 15 minutes it's usually too late.

That's not good. I guess you won't know 100% until you put the 4 sides together but my Y axis is about 11mm longer than my X. So I think you need to start a ticket. What country are you in Paul? Please update your profile settings location. Also please open a ticket at support.ultimaker.com.

Yay! :-) I have a .65mm nozzle (on UM original) and I love it. It prints nice and fast. So do you still plan to sell your UM2?

You blew up the darlingont resistor: Q4. It's near the fan cable connector on the circuit board. I recommend you get another from digikey.com and replace it yourself. Part number BD679. http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/BD679/497-5776-ND/1300084

I would go with .7mm or .8mm. The thicker the drill bit the stronger it is and it's less likely to break off inside. Also I recommend drilling from the back and *not* the tip side. I have a .7mm drilled hole (UM2) and it was done by a friend with better tools than me in new york city. This is why you should have bought a UM Original. The UM Original is easier (and cheaper) to customize. You can buy sets of 10 nozzle diameters on ebay for UM Original.

Yes - retraction settings on UM2 affect only G10,G11. You really don't need the G10/G11 stuff if you only have one printer. This is just so that you can have different printers with different needs for retraction or so you can share gcode with a friend (instead of STL files). UM founders have big ideas about sharing and compatibility and community but ultigcode is only a tiny step towards better compatibility in gcode files.

The wipe tower is trivial and easy - just add it in CAD or make a seperate tower in cad and place next to your part with cura and choose "print all at once" in tools menu. For the sideways motion on "cool head lift" that would be a great test. I also expect some improvement but note that while it is sitting there over to the side it keeps extruding. Even with retraction. Maybe cool head lift needs extra retraction? That won't work either. It works for a second or so but then the pla heats up and expands and pressure pushes the pla out the nozzle and you get a short string. Then when it is done with cool head lift it goes back and the string gets tacked onto the side of your part. Anyway sideways *only* motion on cool head lift is trivial. Just remove the Z portion of the G0 or G1 commands in that part of the gcode. So for example change G0 X10 Y12 Z33 to G0 X10 Y12

In two pictures above you have an arrow pointing to lifting corner. This particular part appears not to have a flat bottom. This makes it extremely difficult. Brim will fix the lifting but is more difficult to remove cleanly on this curved-bottom part. But the part is small. So instead I would try to get the bottom to stick better: 1) Wash the glass very well with glass cleaner or soap and water. Don't touch the glass without clean hands - you don't want oil from your hands on the glass. 2) apply some glue stick near the center (where part will print). 3) Take a wet cloth or paper towel or toilet paper. spread the glue around wet and very thin. 4) Turn on heated bed and make sure all liquid disappears before printing. 5) Heated bed should be at 60C so that part sticks well. Make sure bed cools to 50C or colder before removing as the part will be delicate when still at 60C.

In the bottom most picture your 3 arrows point to 3 issues. The top most arrow shows that you used "cool head lift" which is an improvement and I see it checked in your settings. I already told you how to fix this in my earlier post. Read it again? The second arrow points to stringing. This is more complicated: You have "minimal extrusion before retraction" set to .02. This may be disabling retraction - you can check by looking in layer view - a vertical blue line indicates retraction. If no vertical line on *some* moves it is skipping retraction on those moves. I would try changing this to 0mm. Also you can try printing even slower and cooler. Right now you have print speed 50, travel 200 (good!), temperature 210. Instead try print speed 35, travel 200, temperature 190. Also you have retaction speed at 15mm/sec. This is slow. Go to the max speed (35mm/sec). This will reduce stringing also and reduce globs at the point where the head leaves the part. Also if like most printers your bowden moves a little on the top of the print head, consider increasing retraction travel from 4.5mm to 5.5mm. Also you might need to do a different filament to remove all stringing although usually it can be done. The third arrow may be pointing to minor underextrusion. Fix this by printing hotter (which makes stringing worse) or slower. Try 35mm/sec or even 20mm/sec if that doesn't go away.

Did you look at the part in cura "layer view" to see if something strange is happening there? Anyway I'm guessing maybe there is lots more infill at the top - perhaps it is trying to fill in the entire top - not sure and that your infill speed is much higher than your shell speed - say 100mm/sec for infill and 40mm/sec for shell? If the above two suggestions don't help, at least try sinking the part into the print bed such that cura only prints the "top" so that you don't waste so much time before getting to the problem spot. Also make sure you don't have any plugins enabled on the plugin tab such as "tweak at z".

This is a complicated problem with a simple solution. I've seen this before (mostly on UM Original). It's caused by "play" also known as "backlash". You can read about this in wikipedia. There are several symptoms you have all caused by the same thing. For example in your first posted photo on the inside of the left most wall you can see that in one section every other pass sticks "out". This is because the outer shell pass is clockwise on one pass and counter-clockwise on the next. Anyway backlash can be caused by either high friction or more likely loose belts. Especially the short belts but long belts also. Make sure the short belts are quit tight - and/or tighten your long belts a bit. Check the tension on all 4 long belts and make them all as tight as the currently tightest one. They can be quite loose but I think you are too loose. There is a video by Erik that plays the long belts as a note and indicates the ideal tension. A little tighter than that is best. His video also shows how to tighten the belts or you can look at other options on thingiverse.

I hear sometimes 2 weeks :( Smart to ask here. Major Clue!!! I think. I hope. I had this problem a while back. Sometimes it curls and goes back and touches the nozzle but usually if you pull on the loop a little as it extrudes then the gravity of 30mm of filament should keep it straight. But once even 100mm of filament was not enough to keep it straight - it kept touching the nozzle. Also I had underextrusion. The fix was to take a hypodermic needle (smaller than .4mm) and stick it in the hole and rub it around in a circle hard - careful not to stick it in so far it could damage the teflon piece higher up. This fixed both issues almost immediately. After burning to ash did you get the ash out? One method is the atomic method: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4118-blocked-nozzle/?p=33691

Robert's guide should get published very soon. Probably within 24 hours. It's a fantastic start - it's really a very good guide and blows away all the other FAQs and attempts I've seen so far so I think it would be a good start and it has a great format and layout. Right now it's just raw html I think. If we could use that as a basis for the style of the guide we could add to it - both new topics and more details. Ultimaker already has a wikil. Anyone can create an account on it and anyone could put a guide there. If it was as good as roberts I would start adding to it and also I would link to it for any question easily answered in the guide. Pretty soon it would be the main place to answer "already answered" questions. I really am not fond of the layout of the wiki though. I'm not sure if we can cram Robert's format into a wiki. Also Robert was paid to create this and I don't know if his employer will let us steal the text (and images) from his document as a starting point. I agree that it would be nice if anyone with an account on this forum also automatically had editing access to the wiki and have the usernames match. I don't think up/down voting is necessary as you can just delete anything that is wrong or move it to smaller font with a note that you disagree. Also wiki's have a discussion page for each actual page where you can discuss what wording to use or why you deleted someone's stuff and give them an opportunity to reword it or whatever. It is scary to let just anyone edit the wiki but in practice it works very well. Plus all wiki's have per page source control so you can go back and undo any edits or look at who did what or show the difference between any two historical versions. I guess my biggest fear/demotivator is that UM isn't backing up the wiki regularly and that some day it will all be lost. I prefer to work hard on a document that I am able to personally back up in case UM goes out of business or accidentally drops the server to it's death. If UM would let me mirror (for backup purposes only) the wiki on my own server then I would be much more inclined to put a ton of work into it.

I don't think Joris hangs out here. He hangs out over on google groups. Very creative guy.

That sucks that you can't put the filament on the floor. Some people have printed various guides plus there is a version of the feeder from UM that uses a metal colet at the input to the feeder (where most of the grinding of the black plastic occurs - that black plastic ends up in the nozzle). Well maybe something like this then: post #132: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4393-ultimaker2-feeder-system-improvements-and-ideas/?p=38104

That was 230C by the way. Note also that there was no skipping at that speed but there was some minor, visible underextrusion. I had to slow down to 10.5mm^3/sec to have no visible gaps in the infill.

I also had someone modify a UM2 nozzle but to .7mm instead of .8mm. Here is the only post I wrote about it. I also was able to get up to 18.2mm^3/sec before it started skipping - but man does that extruder spin fast! I made a video: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4127-um2-extrusion-rates-revisited/?p=38869

Your photos are confusing. You seem to be showing photographs of maybe 4 different issues. For example the simplest, most obvious thing is that the small pyramids don't have very good tops due to cooling issues - the hot nozzle does not let it cool. This is easiest to fix by printing 2 pyramids at the same time (cura Tools -> "print all at once"). The 4th item in blue appears to have been printed mostly in the air I think? It's hard to make the bottom surface that is printed in the air. You can add support walls in CAD or you can flip the part over or rotate the part 90 degrees. Those are two issues. Can you pick one problem and show pictures of a single problem?

ABS or PLA? This is dangerous. Don't go over 220C without printing for more than a minute and try not to ever go over 240C with PLA. High temperatures will turn PLA and ABS into a caramelized gunk that sticks to the inner surface of your nozzle and has to be burned out into ash to get it as good as new again. Safe temperatures for PLA - 180C idle (not printing). 240C printing fast. 220C printing slow.

Also most versions of Marlin have software endstops so you can disconnect the 3 unused endstop wires and then go here and build a version of Marlin that goes to 212mm software endstops and it might work. http://marlinbuilder.robotfuzz.com/

Instead of subtracting 1.7 from the gcode you can do near the top of the file (after homing but before it starts printing): G0 x0 y0 G92 x1.2 y1.2 This moves the test head to 0,0 and then tells the printer to count this as position (1.7,1.7).

Either do brim and 0 lines (I know it turns red but it works I think). Or choose skirt (no adhesion) and set all 3 values to 0. Try both of those things. also be aware that the nozzle radius is .2mm so cura should print your part 209.6mm wide instead of 210 because the nozzle width is .4mm. So you should be able to print up to 210.39mm wide parts but Cura only lets you go up to 210.

Beware of 3.00mm filament as if it gets to 3.01mm it will likely get stuck in the bowden. Typically manufacturers know this and the filament will be something like 2.80 to 3.00 with the nominal at 2.9mm. Or nominal at 2.85mm. But some manufacturers don't know this and are 2.9 to 3.1mm and these get stuck in the ultimaker bowden and you will have to throw the entire spool away in frustration.

Sounds serious. Both the stepper motor *and* the stepper driver get hotter as you continue printing - either could be an issue but I would bet on the stepper driver. Maybe the heatsink fell off or the bottom fan is not working? You can swap 2 stepper drivers to see if the problem moves to another axis. Be very careful as some of them (the feeder one maybe) are oriented backwards from the others and plugging this in backwards will fry the whole thing instantly (although they are very inexpensive). Has the lag been quite hot at work lately? Steppers that have too much or not enough current have a distinctive sound to them that many here might recognize in a video.

reprap mode is fine on UM2. You just won't be able to control the retraction distance and speed on UM2 - you have to do it in Cura. The whole concept of ultigcode is that you can create one set of gcode and then print it with PLA or ABS without having to edit the gcode. Also you can print it on differently tuned printers with different retraction settings. Marlin worries about bed temp, nozzle temp, retraction distance and speed. Cura worries about the rest. Oh also filament diameter is specified in Marlin and Cura outputs all distances in cubic mm of filament. So you can change filament diamter, type, bed temp, retraction settings all in Marlin now if you use ultigcode. But reprap mode works just fine on UM2.