gr5

What version of ubuntu @WastelandPhantom? I have ubuntu 20.04.4 and cura works for me but I get similar errors sometimes and I have to reboot ubuntu. I don't know why. I only reboot about once per month but it's still annoying. I'm pretty sure cura 5 will not work on older version of ubuntu (older than 20.X). But Cura 4.X should be fine on somewhat older versions.

This looks like classic underextrusion. Your brim is very underextruded (although that could be bad leveling). But I see underextrusion in many other places. Basically anywhere there are holes. Unfortunately there are a lot of possible causes. Here's the complete list... CAUSES FOR UNDEREXTRUSION UM2 AND HOW TO TEST FOR THEM AND REMEDY THEM One can quickly check the feeder (it takes seconds) so I would always do that first. The feeder on UM2+ and UM2 can push with 10 pounds (5kg) force easily so first thing is to lift that lever (if um2+, if um2 regular do move material) and insert filament so it is only part way into the bowden (e.g. half way). Then move the filament with "move material" command in menu so the feeder is energized and then pull down on the filament under the feeder. You should be able to pull with 5 to 10 pounds force without it slipping. Then have it move the material up while you pull down. 5 pounds force (2kg) is enough to make decent prints at moderate speeds listed below but you need 10 pounds (5kg) to print fast (e.g. 0.2mm layers and 60mm/sec) As far as underextrusion causes - there's just so damn many. none of the issues seem to cause more than 20% of problems so you need to know the top 5 issues to cover 75% of the possibilities and 1/4 people still won't have the right issue. Some of the top issues: 1) Print slower and hotter! Here are top recommended speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers) and .4mm nozzle: 20mm/sec at 200C 30mm/sec at 210C 40mm/sec at 225C 50mm/sec at 240C The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion. Different colors print best at quite different temperatures and due to imperfect temp sensors, some printers print 10C cool so use these values as an initial starting guideline and if you are still underextruding try raising the temp. But don't go over 240C with PLA. 2) Shell width confusion. Shell width must be a multiple of nozzle size (in cura 15.X. In cura 2.X it doesn't matter as much but still makes a difference). For example if nozzle size is .4mm and shell width is 1mm cura will make the printer do 2 passes with .5mm line width which is possible but requires you to slow down much more to make a .5mm line out of a .4mm nozzle. If you really want this then set nozzle size to .5mm so it's clear what you are asking Cura to do for you. 3) Isolator - this is most common if you've printed extra hot (>240C) for a few hours or regular temps (220C) for 500 hours. It gets soft and compresses the filament under pressure. It's the white part touching the heater block. It's very hard to test when not under full pressure (spring and bowden) so sometimes it's best to just replace it. Also if you notice parts of it are very soft (the blacker end where it touches higher heat) then it's too old and needs replacing. 4) Curved filament at end of spool - if you are past half way on spool, try a fresh spool as a test. 5) curved angle feeding into feeder - put the filament on the floor -makes a MASSIVE difference. 6) UM2 only: Head too tight? Bizarrely MANY people loosen the 4 screws on the head by just a bit maybe 1/2 mm and suddenly they can print just fine! Has to do with pressure on the white teflon isolator. 6b) UM2 only: Bowden pushing too hard - for the same reason you don't want the bowden pushing too hard on the isolator. 6c) Um2 only: Spring pushing too hard. Although you want a gap you want as small as possible a gap between teflon isolator and steel isolator nut such that the spring is compressed as little as possible. 7) clogged nozzle - the number one problem of course - even if it seems clear. There can be build up on the inside of the nozzle that only burning with a flame can turn to ash and remove. Sometimes a grain of sand gets in there but that's more obvious (it just won't print). Atomic method (cold pull) helps but occasionally you need to remove the entire heater block/nozzle assembly and use flame. I found soaking with acetone does not help with caramelized pla. Even overnight. Maybe it works on ABS though. Simpler cold pull: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u07m3HTNyEg 😎 Temp Sensor bad - even the good ones vary by +/- 5C and bad ones can be any amount off - they usually read high and a working sensor can (rarely) fail high slowly over time. Meaning the sensor thinks you are at 220C but actually you are at 170C. At 170C the plastic is so viscous it can barely get out of the nozzle. You can verify your temp sensor using this simple video at youtube - on you tube search for this: mrZbX-SfftU 9) feeder spring issues - too tight, too loose. On the black UM2 feeder you want the tension such that you can clearly see the diamond pattern biting into the filament. You want to see at least 2 columns of diamonds. 4 columns is too much. On the white UM2 plus and UM3 feeders you usually want the tension set in the center. 10) Other feeder issues, one of the nuts holding UM2 and UM3 together often interferes with the feeder motor tilting it enough so that it still works but not very well. Other things that tilt the feeder motor, sleeve misaligned so it doesn't get a good grip. Gunk clogging the mechanism in there. 11) Filament diameter too big - 3mm is too much. 3mm filament is usually 2.85mm nominal or sometimes 2.9mm +/- .05. But some manufacturers (especially in china) make true 3.0mm filament with a tolerance of .1mm which is useless in an Ultimaker. It will print for a few meters and then clog so tight in the bowden you will have to remove the bowden from both ends to get the filament out. Throw that filament in the trash! It will save you weeks of pain 11b) Something wedged in with the filament. I was setting up 5 printers at once and ran filament change on all of them. One was slowly moving the filament through the tube and was almost to the head when I pushed the button and it sped up and ground the filament badly. I didn't think it was a problem and went ahead and printed something but there was a ground up spot followed by a flap of filament that got jammed in the bowden tube. Having the "plus" upgrade or using the IRobertI feeder helps you feel this with your hand by sliding the filament through the bowden a bit to see if it is stuck. 12) Hot weather. If air is above 30C or even possibly 25C, the air temperature combined with the extruder temperature can soften the filament inside the feeder such that it is getting squeezed flat as it passes through the feeder - this is obvious as you can see the problem in the bowden. The fix is to add a desk fan blowing on the back of the printer. Not an issue on the UM3 or UM2 "plus" series. 13) Crimped bowden. At least one person had an issue where the bowden was crimped a bit too much at the feeder end although the printer worked fine when new it eventually got worse and had underextrusion on random layers. it's easy to pull the bowden out of the feeder end and examine it. 14) Worn Bowden. After a lot of printing (or a little printing with abrasive filaments) the bowden resistance can be significant. It's easy to test by removing it completely from the machine and inserting some filament through it while one person holds it in the U shape. Preferably i nsert filament that has the pattern from the feeder. 15) Small nozzle. Rumor has it some of the .4mm nozzles are closer to .35mm. Not sure if this is actually true. I'm a bit skeptical but try a .6mm nozzle maybe. 16) CF filament. The knurled sleeve in the extruder can get ground down smooth - particularly from carbon fill. 4 spools of CF will destroy not just nozzles but the knurled sleeve also. Look at it visually where the filament touches the "pyramids". Make sure the pyramids are sharp. 17) Hot feeder driver. I've seen a more recent problem in the forums (>=2015) where people's stepper drivers get too hot - this is mostly a problem with the Z axis but also with the feeder. The high temps means the driver appears to shut down for a well under a second - maybe there is a temp sensor built into the driver chip? The solution from Ultimaker is that they lowered all the currents to their stepper drivers in the newer firmware. Another solution is to remove the cover and use desk fan to get a tiny bit of air movement under there. TinkerMarlin lets you set the currents from the menu system or you can send a gcode to lower the current. Ultimaker lowered the default currents in July of 2015 from 1300ma to 1200ma for X,Y,Z but left extruder at 1250. Other people (I think the support team of a major reseller but I forget) recommend X,Y,Z go down to 1000mA. M907 E1250 Above sets the extruder max current to the default - 1250mA. So try 900mA. This will only change until next power cycle so if you like your new value and want to save it use M500. You can just put these into an otherwise empty gcode file and "print" this and it will change. Or get tinkergnome marlin! You will wonder how you lived without it: https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases M907 E900 M500 18) third fan broken. This tends to cause complete non-extrusion part way through a print. In the rear of the head for UM2 and the front of the head for UM3. Without this fan several things can go wrong. It can take a while as usually you also need several retractions to carry the heat upwards. There are a few failure mechanisms and I don't understand them all. One of them is probably that the molten PLA spreads out above the teflon and sticks to the metal in a core or fills the gap at the base of the bowden in UM2. Later it cools enough to keep the filament from moving up or down. 19) Spiralize/vase mode. This is a rarely used feature of Cura but you might have left it on by accident? In this mode the wall of your part is printed in a single pass. So if you have a .4mm nozzle and the wall is .8mm thick it will try to over extrude by 2X. This is difficult to do and may instead lead to underextrusion. 20) non-standard or bent fan shroud. Sometimes people print some fan shroud off of thingiverse or youmagine out of PLA or ABS. Some of these are great but most of them are crap. One needs to do good air flow modeling. Also if it's PLA it will slump and direct air differently. Air directed at the block or nozzle can cause severe underextrusion and also sometimes HEATER ERROR. Put the original shroud back on or just turn off the fan to prove that the fan is the problem. 21) Firmware settings - for example UM2+ firmware on UM2 or vice versa will cause 2X over extrusion or 2X underextrusion. Downgrading or changing firmware can mess up steps/mm and other settings - so if you updated firmware and then problems started then do a "reset to factory settigns" which corrects all the steps/mm values. 22) too many retractions (this causes complete failure) - if you have too many retractions on the same piece of filament you can grind it to dust. 10 is usually safe. 20 is in the danger zone. 50 should guarantee failure. You can tell cura to limit retractions to 10 per a given spot of filament. Do this by setting "maximum retration count" to 10 and "minimum extrusion distance" to your retraction distance (4.5mm for UM2 and 6.5 for UM3 and 8mm for S5). 23) Brittle filament. Espciallty with older PLA but even brand new pla can do this. If you unspool some (for example if it's in the bowden) for many hours (e.g. 10 hours) it can get extremely brittle and it can snap off into multiple pieces in the bowden. It's not obvious if you don't look for this. Then it starts printing just fine and at some point one of those pieces reaches the print head and gets hung up somewhere and the printer suddenly stops extruding for now apparent reason. This usually happens within the first meter of filament - once you get to printing the filament that was recently on the spool it should be fine from then on. 24) The "plus" feeder can have an issue where the filament doesn't sit properly for one print and it permanently damages the arm inside the feeder as shown by this photo - the hole is ground down asymetrically: http://gr5.org/plus_feeder_issue.jpg 25) Other feeder issues. You can test the feeder by putting the filament only part way down the bowden and with the feeder electrically turned on (or moving) pull very hard on the filament until it slips. You should be able to pull with about 5kg or 10 pounds of force before it slips. 4kg is acceptable. 2kg is a problem. If the stepper motor isn't engaged you can try going into the move menu. After a minute or so power is removed again from the feeder stepper. 26) Meduza - some people who install the Meduza feeder upgrade (2x the pushing power versus standard black UM2 feeder) make the belt so tight that the printer starts underextruding - typically as the circuitry heats up the extruder driver has less and less power and extrusion gets slowly worse over the course of 10 minutes or so.

You can do it. It's quite possible. But first - don't do it. lol. I mean even if it's 10 spools I don't think I would do it. I would donate the filament. I suppose if it's 100 spools. So 3dsolex.com has a solution. Any cores you order them can be in 1.75mm filament. I would have a conversation with sales@3dsolex.com as you really don't want them to ship the wrong core and it's rare that people order 1.75 cores. You have to get the core and also at least one nozzle and also the bowden. The bowden is actually 2 bowdens inside each other. I describe how that works pretty well here: gr5.org/biab175.pdf The inner bowden goes all the way down inside your core. So you can't insert or remove your core while the 1.75mm bowden is connected. Also you will have issues with the software. Cura makes it difficult to choose 1.75mm filament. The last time I tried it I kind of gave up and ended up setting the flow to whatever (2.85/1.75)^2 is as a percent. But somewhere I think I have notes of how to get cura to allow 1.75 on a UM3. I think you have to modify the machine settings and also create a new filament that is 1.75 pla. Something like that. So you can either modify the flow (a hack) or you can mess with material and printer settings which will probably get lost every time you upgrade cura. Instead maybe buy a cheap 3d printer as a second printer to use up all that 1.75mm filament?

First note that in PREVIEW mode you can see that the outer wall is always printed clockwise (maybe not relevant). So it prints okay at the corner and as it speeds up in the middle it underextrudes. It slows down at the corner and is okay and then speeds up and underextrudes again. The outer wall is printed at 34mm/sec. Just before it prints the outer wall it is printing the triangular infill portion (on the layer below) but it's called "top/bottom" which is printing at about half the speed at 22mm/sec. I don't know - it's not super obvious but I have 2 theories 1) Speed changes. Anytime you speed up you will get underextrusion for a few seconds. So you are printing at 22mm/sec for those triangles and then 34mm/sec for the walls. I'd make all the printing speeds the same at 35mm/sec which is a reasonably slow speed where quality should be excellent. Type "speed" above the settings and you'll just see settings related to speed. Set all printing speeds to 35mm/sec most especially top/bottom. Make sure travel speed is still fast at 150mm/sec. I'd leave initial layer speed at 20mm/sec. Also I would disable jerk control and acceleration control. This will increase ringing (vertical lines near the corners of your print) but reduce underextrusion between the corners. What happens with accel and jerk control is it prints the corners much slower (it has to slow down to about 20mm/sec on the corners or slower with jerk control on) so they get a bit over extruded and farther from the corners it prints faster and you can get a little underextruded. But the flip side is you will get more ringing which you may hate. So maybe try initially with these off and if the underextrusion is fixed then try turning these 2 settings back on. 2) printing over air. When you are printing the triangle corners and when it's printing the inside "outer wall" as shown in the photo below, it's printing over "nothing" and so there is nothing to keep the filament from squirting out and lowering the pressure in your nozzle thus underextruding when it goes to print the outer "outer wall". To be clear the gray in the image below is the layer below. The green is initially printing the next layer above. If possible I'd change the slope of that corner piece to 45 degrees so the overhang isn't so bad. The more vertical the slope, the more you are printing on the layer below. The more horizontal the slope, the more you are printing over air. And finally, when experimenting you don't want to spend 4 hours printing to get the answer to "did this change in cura help?". So I'd make an identical box but only 2cm high and maybe only 4 cm on a side. Or you can simply set the Z value to a negative value (click on part, click on the move icon that shows the xyz arrows, type a number into z box) to sink the part mostly below the print bed so it only prints the top third of your print (to do this you also have to uncheck a setting in "preferences" menu then "configure cura" then uncheck "automatically drop..."). That way you can experiment with things like speed and jerk and acceleration and not have to wait 4 house (and waste 9 meters of filament) to find out if your changes worked.

If Mari is right then you can push the head and hear that it doesn't click. Usually the Y switch fails because the rod that goes through the print head is supposed to stick out to the left of the left sliding block and so you might simply need to push hard on that rod a bit to slide it a little to the left.

@Schalkdk - I must not have been clear. Your link takes me to the below message. I need authorization to see your video:

I don't have access to your videos on google. Your words above seem to describe a problem with the stepper motors - they aren't moving when commanded. This can happen if the stepper driver chip is dying or if the chip gets too hot or if the movement is too fast (actually maybe try doing a FACTORY RESET in the UM2 menu system which will reset the speeds used when homing and when the print is complete but this will make you level the bed again). It could be these are set to an overly fast value somehow. It could be a bad wire to the stepper or the stepper itself (it's very unlikely the stepper - these tend to be amazingly tough and should never fail in your lifetime but sometimes they do). It could also be excessive friction - push the head around in X and Y and see if maybe Y has more friction. Maybe add 1 drop of light oil on each of the 4 outer rods and also the 2 rods going through the print head. It would help to see the video so I can see if it starts to accelerate towards home position and then gets too fast. If it makes a humming sound but doesn't move then it's probably not the stepper driver. If it's silent then the stepper driver may have turned itself off for a second (it has a built in computer and thermometer and will shut itself off briefly if it gets too hot). Pushing the head to the front right corner and then doing a XY home would help as then only one stepper should be moving and it's easier to see and hear what is happening.

Cura is a great slicer but not really great at printing through USB. I recommend using different software. I really like prontrface (aka printrun) which you can find here. Or use an SD card if your printer accepts that as SD card is 100X more reliable than printing through USB. http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/ But to truly, actually answer your question, you need to supply what type of operating system you are using as the answer is very different for ubuntu, mac, windows and what version of that operating system. Maybe google around about how to get the serial comm port working for a 3d printer (for your particular operating system). My guess is that you can't get it to work with Cura on Windows as Cura uses only low numbered com ports (like COM3 or COM4) but lately windows seems to like numbers around COM12. Whereas prontrface and other's don't seem to have this issue.

That looks like some graphics bug. I don't think those lines are actually printed. Try a different computer with different graphics cards or graphics drivers. Usually temperature towers are gcode files only? Not STL files? If so then you don't need cura to be involved at all. And the gcode files are customized for certain printers. Typically. This is because you can't set the temperature in an STL file. So: 1) Is this a gcode file you got? If so then just try it out. 2) If not - how are you planning to change the temperature at each level?

Found here: https://github.com/smartavionics/Cura/releases

Everything looks fine. I can't see how it can possibly be the firmware So there has certainly been some occasional issues with 3dsolex cores (there are sometimes issues with UM cores as well- I'm not saying they are better or worse the UM cores) where there are problems just above the heatbreak - there is teflon under the aluminum heatsink and that teflon should be the same diameter as the heatsink just below it. You can cut the teflon tube a little short or a little long. If it's too long and you compress it then it squeezes the filament a bit which is actually typically ideal. You don't want semi-soft filament expaning *above* the heat break. If it does and then cools a bit then you get underextrusion just as you describe. Or you can have trouble removing the filament after the print is over if the heat sink diameter is larger than the diameter of the "trumpet" just above. Or even the top 5cm of the heatsink can be smaller. So basically you want the inner diameter of the core to be really the same all the way until you get below the heat break and then it doesn't matter. Or preferably slightly smaller in diameter just above the heatbreak than the diameter above and below the teflon. Have you had any trouble with removing filament after a print? If so then i'd say that's the problem. I guess I'd contact 3dsolex and maybe ask if they can send you a different core or something. sales@3dsolex.com usually works.

The 3 holes definitely improve flow - there are some great videos from "CNC Kitchen" on youtube basically proving that it's much better. It's good to have some tricks to isolate the problem. Trick 1: Test feeder. It's probably not the feeder but it might be so let's eliminate the feeder right off. The feeders do age - there are some plastic parts inside that can completely wear out. So lift that lever and pull back the filament so that it is half way down the bowden. Now go into the menu system and get to the MOVE feature where you can move the material - move the material and then fight that by pulling hard down below the feeder with the other hand. The feeders typically fail at about 7kg of force where the filament slips backwards but anything over 4kg should be plenty. Maybe lift a 5kg weight (if you can find something - or maybe a few liters of water?) to compare the force or I've kind of squeezed a 5kg weight against the filament below the feeder such that the filament is basically holding most of the weight. Make sure the feeder can advance the filament forwards while being held back by 5kg. Trick 2: now test flow. See how fast you can extrude through the nozzle. Typically you can get the filament to go from the nozzle down to the bed (when all the way down) in about 10 seconds with a 0.4mm nozzle. If it takes > 20 seconds then there is a problem somewhere. Again - in the move menu, it will heat the core. wait for the nozzle to heat up and then turn the knob to get the filament to move. Try to find the max speed. Put a kink in the filament just outside the nozzle so you can see how long it takes to get down to the glass. Slowly adding movement with one hand constantly to try to achieve max speed (if you move too fast with the feeder it can actually slow down a bit). 1) Please post your project that definitely failed. If you don't mind sharing the STL. Go to "file" "save project" and post the resulting file here. Just so I can see if you are printing too fast or something I wouldn't normally expect. 2) Make sure the fan is working in the print head - the center fan. It should start spinning as soon as either core is above around 60C. 3) Is the problem only on the right core? You only show a photo of the right feeder. 4) Is this PLA?

OH!!!!! It's okay for the gray areas to overlap. You just can't have a light gray area touch a dark gray area. So you can get those parts much closer together.

Note that your parts are not very tall but if they were say just as tall as they are the other dimensions then setting the print head distances to smaller values will be a problem. Or you can just print in "all at once" mode and not worry about any of this.

Do you have "print sequence" set to "one at a time"? I don't get those lighter gray zones unless I go for "one at a time" mode. If you are in that mode then you need to edit the settings in machine settings. In PREPARE view (as you show above) in the upper left corner click on your printer drop down. Then click "manage printers" button then "machine settings" button. In there are some distances in there (first tab, right side, "printhead settings"). If you set those to zero I think those gray areas will shrink.

For Ultimaker 3 and most other printers, yes. It's usually with all the other circuitry.

When you go buy a cheap printer (I assume you are not rich), most people will recommend Creality. Instead read this guide - this guide is amazing for choosing 3d printers: Fantastic list: https://www.reddit.com/user/richie225/comments/rnillw/generic_fdm_printer_recommendations_2022/

One way to find the stepper driver is to follow the 4 wire cable from the stepper back to the driver. The cables usually have twisted pairs and are very distinctive.

Every printer is different. Some printers have a single controller board. On that board is the stepper drivers (they are about 1.5cm square and quite visible) and usually on that same board is the CPU. On cheaper printers the CPU is an arduino style computer - usually not technically an arduino but the same CPU as on an arduino. On more expensive printers there are often more expensive computers. Some printers (like the Ultimaker 3) have complete Linux computer on one board. It's a powerful computer similar to a cell phone computer with a powerful operating system (linux). And then there is a second circuit board on the UM3 (underneath) with the arduino style computer which is the secondary computer that controls the stepper drivers which control the steppers. So that second board is similar to the *only* board on most printers. Arduino style computers are very wimpy. Very very weak. Maybe like 40,000 arduinos are enough computing power to match one cell phone computer. The 2 boards in the Ultimaker3 talk to each other through USB interface. All underneath the UM3 printer. The stepper drivers have 4 wires that go to each stepper. Look up the wiring for stepper drivers (look at the key pins - the 4 outputs and the inputs are "dir" for "direction" and "step" which is pulsed by the computer to tell the stepper driver to do 1 "step". These stepper drivers are extremely similar to the drivers for the motors on a quadcopter. But quadcopters have 3 wires instead of 4 going to the motors. There isn't much feedback from the stepper - you tell the stepper to step say 234 times and it moves but the computer doesn't know for sure if the stepper missed a step. If the stepper misses a step the printer keeps going but now everything is offset by 1 step. This is usually not a problem but sometimes it is. The information is one way. From computer - through stepper driver - to stepper. There is no feedback in the other direction.

lol. You have lots of questions. Keep that screw as tight as possible. It's called a "set screw". You want it so tight that the allen wrench twists a bit. It keeps that pulley from slipping on the stepper motor shaft. If that gets loose then your X or Y stepper will slip and you'll get issues where your part shifts suddenly on higher up levels. There's a photo showing this and showing this repair in one of those 3 3dverkstan links I posted earlier in this topic. You shouldn't need to touch any of that stuff. Try printing a few things and watch the printer in action. You will slowly understand things. I've never had to touch any of the set screws on my UM3. And it's probably 5 years old now? That reminds me - time to start the next print on my UM3...

Nice!!!! So that's another option next time!

What city/state is near to you. Most people don't want to send money to someone "on the internet". But if you are close enough that they can drive to you then maybe.

sshd is disabled unless you go into "developer" mode. It's a setting in the menus but... I think they maybe removed that feature on the S3. It's still on the S5 and it *might* be on the S3 - I can't keep track. Maybe it's only the UM2+C where they removed developer mode. Once it's in that mode it also shows the ip address right at the top of the dispaly (for all screens I think). Only then is it worth trying to ssh. An alternative to getting into connman is you can buy a USB to Serial cable - I like the olimex-cable-f. You can connect that inside the base of the S3 near or on the computer (I'm not sure exactly where on the S3 - I know the S5 and UM3 better). Then you have console access. You can watch it boot and then you can log into root from there and access connman. It's entirely possible that your ethernet died - something happened to the chip that does ethernet. But since it seems to have happened with an upgrade I'm guessing it's firmware related.

I would try downgrading the firmware. You can put the older firmware on a USB flash drive and install the version that was working for you. Maybe do a factory reset afterwards. Actually that reminds me - in maintenance there is some kind of reset. Maybe "network reset" or "digital factory reset" or something like that - it resets all network related things and fixes all manner of networking issues. Does the S3 have developer mode? I think that was taken away in a firmware release. But if it does - and you seem unusually good at networking stuff - then I'd have you ssh into the machine (root/ultimaker) and run connman which is the utility to control both ethernet and wifi. You can google connman commands on the internet. Note: 2 "n"s in connman. @Smithy or @Dim3nsioneer might have ideas as they know this stuff better than me. Also check the wifi antenna connection maybe?

Don't confuse the word "hole" with the word "hole". It's the same word but different meanings. "repair holes in your mesh" mean that the wall of your part is missing a triangle. That's not your issue. You have a volume of space in your model that you want to fill in. Different issue. What you want is very common for example for people who print models of automobiles. The model may have all kinds of details like stick shift and steering wheel that you prefer to just fill in solid since you plan to make the windows opaque anyway. So that might be a good thing to google - something like "how to get rid of interior detail of my car 3d model".