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Ultimaker accidentally shipped the wrong power supplies for some UM2 machines and they just discovered it today. Please send a photo of your power "brick" that shows the amperage to Ultimaker support and they will ship you a new one immediately. In the mean time, I recommend putting some blue tape over the glass (should have been included) and print on cold glass. You can even print directly on cold glass if you use the glue stick, use hot PLA. More details on printing on glass here: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3404-printing-on-glass/ edit: for example print first layer at 240C and use glue stick and you should be fine. You can lower the temp when it starts the second layer.

You can do a simple test to determine if the problem is the nozzle or the bed or neither. On controller do: Maintenance -> Advanced -> Then either: Heatup head or Heatup buildplate Increase the temp until it is above current temp. At that moment power will be sent to the nozzle or heat bed and if this causes the failure then you probably have a short in that system. If both by themselves are fine, try heating both at once. Maybe your power supply "brick" is wimpy (defective) and you need a new one because it can't supply the full needed power.

Try taking a video and looking at the video.

>start to warp, miss lines, or extrude too much. Sounds like 3 different problems. Maybe 3 different posts? Well I'll address just one issue - around the area of the angel's wings there is some underextrusion (holes). This is caused by changes in extruder speed. Easiest way to fix this is to slow things down and also make sure your fill speed is the same as your normal print speed (movement speed should stay fast!). If you want it to be really beautiful print really slow - like 20mm/sec. Alright two issues - if you want to reduce strings, lower speed *and* temperature. Try 190C or even 180C. These are dangerously cold (you can get underextrusion easily if you don't print slow enough) but temps below 200C can usually eliminate stringing. I usually go for 195C as a compromise but the best temperature depends on the color and brand of PLA: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1872-some-calibration-photographs/

For mobile covers I would download one from thingiverse and then edit it myself. My favorite covers are those that have a pattern of holes in the phone that match an image. Like this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:97805 This is my phone cover: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/galaxy-s4-ballistic-case Actually I redid that cover and it looks better now. Don't have a picture though. For fashion - do you mean maybe jewelry?

So Luxy - if you got that - Valcrow and I both think you need a new nozzle - a better nozzle. Consider sending a PM to illuminarti as he might sell you one. Or get one from UM. The nozzle you have now - I'm not sure if you created it or if it came from Ultimaker but it looks very bad.

I use sketchup quite a bit. Unfortunately it's too easy to create internal faces or holes in a face which confuse slicers. The way the slicer works mostly is it finds the intersection of a plane with every (every!) polygon in the stl. This results in many unconnected lines. Then it looks to see which lines end at the same point and tries to create a loop. If it can't create a loop and if you didn't check any of the "fix horrible" checkboxes then it discards that. Then it takes the loops and figures out which loops represent an external wall and which an internal "hole" in the part. Anyway the point is your model must be perfect for this to work. If 2 polygons don't quite meet then it won't work - one of the fix horrible will assume lines touch if they are "close enough". Other's try to repair holes and other mistakes. If you view your part in cura in the "xray" view it will show most of the problem areas in red. If you see any red at all I recommend going back to sketchup and fixing those spots. You can also try this which removes internal surfaces (but can remove important surfaces also if you aren't careful: http://meshlabstuff.blogspot.com/2009/04/how-to-remove-internal-faces-with.html But again - it's not just internal faces that are a problem - it's also holes in your surface that mess up the slicing of layers that intersect the hole or gap.

Cura centers the part in X and Y on the center of the machine (around 100,100mm - maybe 102.5,102.5?) and raises the part so the lowest point is at z=0. There should be no other transformations unless you purposefully scale the part.

Sounds like the arduino got damaged somehow. Or maybe a bad solder joint between the arduino and the stepper driver. What country are you in? (please put that in your profile). Here in the USA you can get a new arduino for $20 including shipping. In other words, they are so cheap you might as well have an extra one or two sitting around.

That won't help. Instead model a tower next to the part. Or just print 2. I recommend printing 2 because then you end up with two. lol. It won't help because the problem is that the print is too small at the teeth - the nozzle never leaves the melted pla so the pla never has a chance to cool.

How does it smell??

That is a very strange looking nozzle. It has a huge flat area. And it's more spherical - mine is more shaped like a cone. Are you sure it's a .4mm nozzle? If that's a .2mm nozzle with a 2mm flat area... There's something weird with this nozzle. Here are 2 pics of the nozzle that came with my ULtimaker Original. It works great!

Go to the advanced menu and go to the part where you can set the bed temp. In there it shows the current temp. If the current temp matches the temp of your room (anywhere from 20C to 30C) then you are good to try heating it up.

I know he found a bug in the PID code and he fixed it and sent in the fix to the Marlin erik zalm version a while back. I think that fix made it heat and cool a bit faster. Not sure though.

google warehouse is nice if you want things like cars, furniture, famous buildings. Just google what you want. For example "3d model porsche". Most models on the internet include colors and transparency and stuff.

This is an interesting thread - please keep us informed.

Stunning. You make some very nice looking prints!

If it were me I would request an arduino from Ultimaker in the ticket *and* order a spare Arduino at the same time. You want the "Arduino mega 2560"

By the way - if you look at your model in cura in "xray" view - does it have any red areas? Red areas are bad for cura.

It looks like slicing issues. I would look much more carefully at the gcode. You can try repetier host or this website: http://gcode.ws/ Look carefully at the areas that you know were a problem for you.

Printing slower won't help the warping - just will help with the underextrusion because the pressure never gets very high in the nozzle. Illuminarti uses I believe 6 inch wide blue tape - this helps a lot. I use about 3 inch wide tape. Much better than the 1 inch tape from Ultimaker and it takes less time to "tape the bed".

I think it's mostly a bug in Cura. I've seen when you set for example to 50% overlap sometimes it does 50% in X or Y only but ends up being 100% in the other axis and similarly strange things. The way Cuya calculates this overlap with the shell seems to have a bug. I think the bug shows up in that exact spot because your STL is .2mm wider there.

It could be temperature. It could be a bad nozzle. Consider looking at the tip of the nozzle with a magnifier to see if it has a symmetrical hole or if it is damaged. These only cost a few dollars so if it is damaged don't panic. Consider calibrating the temp by setting the nozzle to 95C, and make sure it doesn't boil a drop of water placed on it. If neither of these clues help you, please take a video of it printing badly. I think it's the nozzle. I bet it will also print a little better (but still messed up) with .2mm layers.

Try disconnecting the AC power cord for 30 seconds and reconnect. It has a failsafe circuit that can cause problems. Also consider removing the Arduino from the electronics board and connect directly to the Arduino board. Try installing the firmware again directly to the arduino. The USB cable will power the Arduino. You probably need a new Arduino. A very inexpensive part. What country are you in? Can you update your profile?

This is a fascinating topic! Please post the STL file.