Dim3nsioneer

Hi Rob Welcome to the forum. I fear nothing has changed in Cura. But there are two other possibilities in the meantime. If you have a not too old Marlin version on your UMO. Possibility 1: Use the TweakAtZ 3.2 plugin with the extruder specific flow Possibility 2: switch to volumetric reprap flavor and add two M200 commands to your start.gcode for setting the proper filament diameters

Relevel the bed as the distance between nozzle and bed is a bit too small.

If you want to have dual extrusion right now then you should go for a UMO, a heated bed kit and the dual extrusion kit as the PSU of the UMO+ has officially not enough power to drive both UMO hotends and the heated bed at the same time.

But they didn't as you could easily gain or loose 10kg of weight during the time waiting for the UM2 then...

http://www.myminifactory.com/object/isis-at-hyde-park-1395

I have a reference on my 3DHubs page to my terms and conditions in which is written that the purchaser has to check the legal situation of the object he wants to print. So I don't have to check (which is almost impossible with some designs).

The non-continuous line on the outside of the brim is just an effect from the unfinished priming at the beginning. As soon as the priming leads to a steady material flow the brim looks ok. It will not affect the print quality if the major part of the brim is printed correctly. However, if you want to get rid of it, increase the amount of the pre-print-extrusion in your start.gcode. The dotted lines inside the sparse infill are indeed from combing moves. If you loose too much filament with them and get underextrusion following such combing moves, deactivate it in the expert settings or use the RetractWhileCombing plugin. Printing cooler and moving faster (travel speed) reduces the effect.

Yes. See my post on 11/03 above.

Thanks for the fix.

Have you watch it printing? On a dual extrusion print both hotends are heated which means the second hotend is also closer to the printbed/printing layer than in a single extrusion print due to the thermal expansion (it's about 0.1mm). Therefore it might get stuck on the print more easily and could lead to skipping of the x/y axes. Just a theory...

CDs / DVDs / BDs are made of PC...

But chocolate goes for the whole year... :lol:

@Robert: That's why I have a small but fine collection of single malt whisky at home... and in Switzerland we have delicious (cheese) fondue for this time coming... :grin:

Hmmm... I guess I need a 3D Lac spray for between the layers... :sad:

Then you never tried Diamond Age White, did you? I made fabulous prints with that one. And it's really, really white... just a pity that they are on the other side of the planet... To my personal experience Diamond Age PLA is even slightly better than Faberdashery in two attributes: Inter-layer adhesion (phenomenous even at low temperatures) and quality of the overhangs. However this is a comparison on the level excellent to perfect. The best thing for unspooled filament is a WIDE filament holder with a inner diameter a bit smaller than the inner diameter of the roll. With wide I mean the space the roll can be distributed on the holder. Like this the filament end comes also easily out of the roll when it's not at the end of the roll (i.e. twisted...).

A quick check showed that the plugin gets the temporary file from Cura like this. There is not much I can do from the plugin side... Daid?

T0=170°C?, Tbed=60°C? That's about it, isn't it?

Are you allowed to tell with which parameters you printed the PVA?

Can you show us also the x-ray and the layer view in Cura please?

That's actually what they do. I got quite some answers on Sundays for my tickets. But I think the ticket system itself has a flaw. IMHO it makes not much sense to have a system which lets the customer select the priority of the ticket and which increases the priority from day to day. This leads to the situation that you have only tickets with the highest priority just after a few days and you can't say anymore which one was really urgent and which ones could wait a bit longer. I would switch off the automatic priority increase and let the customer decide how urgent it is.

sehr gut. Ich bezog mich auf auf die im generellen Handel erhältliche Qualität. Aber mit technischem Reinheitsgrad sollten eigentlich keine Reste auf der Oberfläche zurück bleiben (es sei denn, es wird ungenügend gereinigt). Ich würde die Spülmittellauge trotzdem mal ausprobieren. Einfach mit dem Wasser und der Stromversorgung des Heizbetts aufpassen... ;-)

Someone made a 'nerd' fork of Ultimaker2Marlin which includes many more information about the printing process similar to the status on the Ulticontroller display. Unfortunately it hasn't yet made it into the default firmware. I would support the possibility to switch the view.

@gr5: If this theory is correct then I see a lot more troubles coming for the UM2 dual extruder... :eek: I would have expected the heater electronics is current-controlled...

I'm not. In bang-bang mode you have a quasi-steady current while in PID mode you have an AC. It's all about frequency.

Absolutely true. But in reality the difference is a bit better visible. I would say the improvement from the first to the second print is 95% and from the second to the third 5%.