Dim3nsioneer

Ich nehme mal an, Du hast den Filamentwechsel mit der entsprechenden Funktion am Drucker durchgeführt? Nach meiner (PLA-)Erfahrung, führt das zu feinen Strähnen im Bowden-Schlauch, welche von Auge fast nicht zu sehen sind aber trotzdem so dick, dass sie sich zusammen mit dem Filament zu einer veritablen Blockade entwickeln können. Ich empfehle Dir, den Bowden-Schlauch zu entfernen und zu reinigen, das geht z.B. sehr gut mit einem Stück Pfeifenreinigerdraht, der mit Filament durchgestossen wird.

bISovbe'chu'... But that's what the other universe has C3PO for...

Then you might want to try RetractWhileCombing if you don't know it yet.

Is it only me or has the response time gone up massively? Loading of a thread takes very long now.

That depends on what you want. Maybe the tooltip can help you? Off is certainly the way to let the combing lines disappear but maybe it's too radical. Are you using Cura 15.06+ or the legacy Cura?

Di you mean the combing lines? You can eliminate them by disabling combing or by using the RetractWhileCombing plugin for legacy Cura.

In addition to the thread @Labern linked to there is a german thread about a dual extrusion on one head with water cooling. However, none of the two solution is available as a kit atm.

Standard electronics don't like an operation temperature above 40°C. That's the drawback of this solution. Otherwise it looks good to me in terms of safety.

I would not recommend to widen them. If they are just a bit too wide the bearing will slip out of the block and you will have serious troubles with your printer. I think I gently used a hammer. Just make sure you drive the bearing perpendicular into the wood and not tilted.

I would not take the result of the ears as a result of the material. I think this is the point where the fan shroud could actually make a difference. One of us should separate the two things.

I was wondering how different PLA brands compare. This is the exact test file @ultiarjan posted printed on my UM2 with Olsson Block (0.4mm nozzle) and the standard fan shroud. The print was made with Diamond Age PLA Silver (the closest color I had to light gray). btw: I really like that test file!

To me it looks as if the bed executes a controlled drive. I think something with the z steps per mm setting is wrong. Did you load the correct firmware? Maybe you should reload it (UMO+, not UMO in Cura!).

Hallo stefan Ich weiß nicht. Ich denke, es ist wie das xt...haben sie diese Studie gesehen ? http://www.eastman.com/Literature_Center/S/SPMBS1615.pdf Non, je ne l'ai pas connu. Merci beaucoup pour le lien!

I also thought once of replacing the belts on my UMO with ball screws. There are 3D printers which have ball screws for all three axis. But: Unless you really need the very last few microns of x/y-accuracy you will not see a difference, especially not on the UM2. With the belts there are actually a few issues which can be avoided by general maintenance. If you have a belt rubbing at the pulley, you might want to print your own spacers between pulley and bearing with a slightly different length. From time to time it's good to check the tension of the short belts and to adjust it a bit if necessary. I also read some UM2 users had an issue with the auto-tensioner of the long belts and they had to replace it after some time. Personally, I don't see such an effect (yet) on my 1.5 year old UM2.

It disappeared when I switched from bang-bang heating mode for the bed to PID mode. Most probably it's something in Marlin, maybe connected with the exact power of the heater (which I don't know yet; but it's planned to increase it to 35W). But that was on my UM2. On the UMO it's rather something mechanical or a temperature fluctuation. Colors like white or sky blue are more sensitive to banding than dark colors.

Merci @rigs pour l'information. Moi, je me demande comment ngen se compare à XT ou PLA au regard des emissions des particles et des fumées. Tu sait quelque chose?

Finally found it. It doesn't immediately pop into your eye (compared to other recently added or moved elements... ). But it's indeed nice. @SandervG, @ultiarjan: For me the number of ghost notifications stayed the same.

I would not say Google search is working better but rather it is working. The forum search is not. Neither it didn't in the old forum. I guess it never will. Unless Ultimaker finally can decide to use Google search. But somehow they seem to have decision processes which block any reasonable and any only half-way prompt decision. This might have been caused by the mistakes they made in recent past by being too quick to introduce and announce new things (forum, Cura, dual extrusion).

Es gibt den TFT-Coupler von 3dSolex. Zusammen mit dem I2K-Coupler ebenfalls von 3dSolex bildet er das TF2K-Duo, für das 3dSolex eine Garantie von 6 Monaten gegen thermischen Verschleiss bei Dauerbetrieb mit 300°C gibt. http://3dsolex.com/teflon-replacements

Great you moved the buy button... however... five millimeters in two weeks... Ultimaker printer fortunately print a lot faster... Where is that YM tab? Can't see it... btw: The 'mark as read' link still doesn't work in 'topic' view...

@pm_dude: Thanks for the news!

Good question. I'll do some testing tonight. Any preferred settings you want to test ? Different fan levels? They say 0-100%. Should give some room for tests...

How does it print in overhangs?

Seems to be something between PLA/PHA and XT... although they say low odor generation the material safety datasheet recommends 10 air changes per hour which is a lot... I guess it's producing fine dust particles... like ABS.

Beim PVA fragt sich ev. ob der Lieferant es auch immer schön brav trocken gelagert hat. Bekommst Du Dampffähnchen beim Drucken?