Dim3nsioneer

@frederiekpascal: What is your UM2 standing on? Have you tried yet to lift it for a few seconds and check if the sound is still the same. Because I think the retraction of the UM2 is really quiet (at least compared to an UMO). But you can amplify the sound it makes by putting the UM2 onto something which is in resonance with the printer sounds.

Do you mean the PTFE isolator couple? Yes.

You may try: - to print cooler - to use zhop - to increase travel speed (I use 250mm/s w/o any issues)

Priming the hotend is certainly not a bad idea. The UM2 primes with 20mm iirc. I use something like 80mm3 on my UMO. About the hardware: Do you have the same effect if you preheat the nozzle and wait e.g. 30s until you start the print?

Not without resoldering the driver chip itself I guess...

@xxxprod: As you may (or may not) know, Ultimaker printers are open source. That means that they published drawings for every part of their printers, including the Ultimaker2. So the only thing one has to do is to check the drawing of e.g. the left panel: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/1232_Left_Panel_%28x1%29/B1232-B2P-D.PDF And here is your answer: Perpex frost. Good luck with your project!

@nallath: There is a plugin for legacy Cura, it's called SwapAtZ and allows for changing the gcode at any height of the object from one configuration to the other. Anyway, we now get the 'per object settings' with the next Cura version which is quite a step forward. However, I think there should be a version one day where different configuration can be applied to different heights (yes, in about the same way as TweakAtZ works). The mount everest of the slicer engine will of course be a really dynamically calculated infill where e.g. an internal support structure / infill start from the walls at a certain height and gets finer and more dense until it reaches a percentage where a few top layers can be laid onto without getting pillowing or any other issues.

Enclosing a 3D printer is not without risks. There has been a case where an enclosed 3D printer caused a fire which burned down a whole house. However, one can do it the right way which is for me: - temperature control of the inside with a safety switch for the printer if temperature hits a threshold - placing the electronics on the outside of the enclosure - usage of non-flammable or at least self-extinguishing materials (i.e. UL V-0) for the enclosure Simply putting a bag over the printer is not a very good idea IMHO.

Most probably it's the teflon. You should replace it.

Miracle...? Definitively not me... but I could use one from time to time...

Ok, just checked it. Good news, it should work with Ultigcode. One has to exchange the numbers between ;MATERIAL: and ;MATERIAL2: Only the hotends with non-zero Material-values are heated up and primed.

Hey @Ultiarjan, very cool documentation! As for your open question I have an idea how it might work even with UltiGCode. But I have to check the Marlin code first.

As a metric guy I would not like to be bothered with questions about if it could be meant to be in inches when loading a small object to be printed with e.g. a 0.25mm or 0.15mm.

@SkyKorp and any others asking for imperial unit support: You can stop asking as Cura will support the 3mf format which includes the unit from next official version on. There you will have your auto-conversion. Keeping the assumption that STL is in mm is ok for me as it is like this in 99% of all cases.

While a changeable nozzle system is certainly desired on a FDM printer, I understand why UM is not stressing too much on changing the hotend. First, they might have a significant number of heater blocks / hotend of the current design on stock. Second, changing these parts might make it necessary to repeat some offical tests like EMC which is ususally quite some money.

@Jeex: Have you tried the latest beta? There, the postprocessing plugin with the PauseAtHeight script is already included.

Is it? I mean, functionality wise it definitely seems so, but I can't remember it being released as such. Yes. Just check the URL you are downloading from... @SandervG: Maybe a clearer separation of stable and beta releases is needed?

Seems a bit too much. To be honest, multiplication of objects (and especially deleting an object) does not seem to work properly. But hey, it's a beta...

@gr5 @swordriff I guess we are talking about having one heater and one temperature sensor on each extruder, aren't we? @ultiarjan: Very interesting question indeed. I think it should not be too high due to the fact that the stainless steel coupler makes the connection to the printhead block. But aren't there not some investigations for this somewhere here on the forum?

Yes, they have to be doubled and connected to the second extruder connectors on the Ultiboard. But as only one hotend is driven at a time, power limit of the UM2 should not even be a problem if >25W heaters are used.

Full extension to dual extrusion and using only one extruder by selection at a time is the way to go IMHO. Everything else results in rewriting Marlin partially. Except for some additional costs for motor and Bowsen tube as @ultiarjan pointed out I don't see any drawbacks on the full dual extrusion setup - as long as not used for dual extrusion... edit: With only one feeder one would have to edit pins.h to map the pins for feeder two with the pins for feeder one. But I don't know if that will cause any troubles.

Uhm... isn't it rather "Reprap gcode mode"?

Upgrading the UM2 to dual extrusion with spare parts, using one hotend with duptef/I2K and the other with the IPM coupler and selecting the extruder you need might be a possibility. One would just have to unscrew the unused nozzle to prevent collisions.

Especially @iroberti is too modest... His feeder design actually solves all those problems. At least it did for me. I print now over a year with Robert's feeder and I'm very happy with it. I only had one clog with my UM2, right at the start. Then I started to wrap pipe cleaning wire around the filament before it enters the feeder and really never had a clog again. Keeping the Bowden and the nozzle clean of dust is for me the key to clog-free printing. So for me, there is no need for a design change. But I appreciate it of course if UM improve things for new users.

I then might have to consider writing a plugin which reverses that effect... PLUGIN WARS! You know what happens when imperial units enter the field: there will be a rebel alliance...