tommyph1208

A common approach before the heatbed kit has been to drive a relay with the mosfet... The relay is hooked up to the heatbed and a seperate 24V power supply... I didn't like the idea of 2 PSUs and all the relays and stuff, 19V is also generally incompatible with alot of reprap parts, and so in the end I decided to swap the board eentirely... I now use a RUMBA board running 24V and it drives everything with a ~300W, 24V PSU mounted under the printer...

I would also call this a decent print 210 degrees celsius seems high for PLA... I regularly print at 190. Concerning the lines on the side, 0.15 mm. layers is what I would consider a "medium quality setting", you can go half of that (and even lower) on the UM2, no problems... Also; Measure the exact diameter of your filament with a digital caliper and punch this into Cura... Hitting the exact right amount of extruded filament is key for a flat smooth top surface (well, actually just outer shell in general).

Neither really... What you can do is pull out the heat cartridge from your old UMO hotend (or buy a new ~18-20V one somewhere online), and use that in the E3D heatblock, to have something properly proportioned... (They are the same physical sizes). You can also drill a tiny hole in the old UMO heatblock to fit the thermistor from the E3D kit (the old hole for the thermocouple is too large) and then just use that heatblock with the E3D hotend (again... same physical characteristics, threads etc.)... Doing that you will however loose some of the niceness of the E3D hotend, as it has some cool, but non critical design features that deviate from the UMO one... I was in a similar situation as you with my UMO a good while back, but at the same time also adding a heated bed, stronger PSU and some other things... All in all, the list of mods and the incompatibility of the UMO board, made me in the end, throw it away all together and replace it with a RUMBA board running 24V. That IS a bigger upgrade... Not at all impossible though, and maybe worth considering already now if you down the road, will find your self wanting more upgrades.

Nice to see someone start hacking away on these all too shiny and new UM2 printers... Seems people in general have been reluctant to mess too much with them, compared to the UMO printers and boards. Maybe its because they have just worked (at least up until now) or maybe its the price tag and Apple look, I dunno... anyways, congrats on a hack well done

I would also say that unless the pretty looks of the UM2 is really really important to you, go for the UMO+... potentially spend a fraction of the money you save on buying that over the UM2, to close the final gaps between the two... Noise eg. is quickly solved with the SilentStepStick stepper drivers and maybe a new extuder, or a "silent mount" for the original one. As mentioned before its a fairly trivial task to upgrade to GT2 belts and pulleys if you so desire (and think its worth it). There are so many many mods and upgrades you can easily make once you have the printer, the possibilities are endless, and for sure you can get the same quality, if it isn't close enough already. Alot of things can also be done to the looks of the printer if this matters to you and you don't like the "DIY burned wood" look... A simple paintjob eg., does wonders.

Has anyone rotated their printer 180 degrees so the device is upside down? I can see a few problems with this like bridging creating hanging bits that would hit the printer head. I ask because in some regards I think this would be the easiest way to retain the heat in the printer in the correct areas of the printer. Keeping cool air at the "bottom" of the printer separated from the hot air at the "top" as a function of the differences in their densities. Probably not worth the hassle though, but an interesting thought. Anyone tried this yet? I had originally bought a fan off e-bay that didn't work at first, so I ordered another. I just got the first fan working again, so now I have two mostly identical crossflow fans. So that's two crossflow fans? Seems a little overkill (and expensive too...)... How would it work in terms of turbulence (where does the air go after cooling the hotend)? I played around with the idea of using just my single crossflow fan to also cool my E3D hotend, but then realized that this would only work for the prints where you actually want the print cooled... All the time... A fan that slowly starts up over the first few layers would be no good... Two fans would solve this, but I am concerned with all the excess cold air... Would you have an opening in the printer on the other side for air to escape?

Man I gotta get me some paint gear and brush (pun intended) up on the old warhammer painting techniques, cause maaan! That just takes 3d prints to a whole new dimension (again... pun intended)... Meanwhile, here is what nhfoleys awesome slideblocks look like in a boring white: The are printed in PLA at 0.2 mm. layer height, 0.8 mm. walls, 100% infill, 100 mm./s printspeed, 200 degrees hotend, 60 degrees bed. Printer is a hacked UM1 with alu heatbed + glass, E3D hotend and crossflow fan...

I love my crossflow fan... And if you put some thought into how you arrange your prints on the platform in relation to the fan (eg. rotate heavy overhangs towards it, or rotate and place prints with holes, so that the air blows through the holes), you can get great results. I got mine from a Danish webshop (I live in Denmark), that sell audio hifi equipment (the fan is used to cool massive car audio amplifiers), its an absolutely great fit, but probably dosn't make sense for you to buy from there (also, it was rather expensive), they also don't seem to be selling them anymore. I saw some similar ones on Conrad: http://www.conrad.de/ce/de/product/560546/Querstromluefter-Motor-rechts-12-V-X-Fan-DF43198-R/?ref=search&rt=search&rb=1 Its a good length and comes in both a left and right motor edition, but with a 6 cm. width you will have trouble fitting it in the side of the printer between the bed and frame... You can probably mod your way out of that..

I dont have a grip no... since there is no top lid, I simply reach in from the top and pop the panel out.

If you switch the bed to bang-bang mode, there is indeed some settings for when to turn the bed on and off like you mention... Its in configuration.h and called something like "bed hysteresis" I believe

Man, these instructions are way better and easier than what I ended up doing in the early adoptation of these magnificent drivers Mine is with the unsoldered pins and the wire and everything.... Totally hacked up :/, I might just have to put in new ones some day and use these ones in a "left over scrap and parts" printer Anyways, I think it was just some unfortunate misunderstandings of the easiest way to install the drivers... The method ataraxis mentions, is definetely the most straight forward one when it comes to UM electronics. dintid, give me a shoutout if you want me to help you out with the drivers, I'm danish too, so I can (probably) explain it in native tounge as well (are you in the "3d Print(ere) i Danmark" FB group?

Dont turn the heater off... Most probably your print will pop off the build plate if you do so... There might be an idea in having the bed be a bit warmer in the beginning to get a really good adhesion (but i dont know), and then reducing it after a few layers, to prevent elephants foot

I did not know that, thanks! I did indeed buy neodymium magnets on ebay, and one of the listings does indeed mention a 80 degrees max operating temperature, now that I look... I do not plan to have a heat chamber that hot though, I also have to think about my stepper motors....

Noted! Thanks

Thanks guys I didn't know it was a double post, thanks Didier

Hey guys So I wanted to somewhat enclose my UMO to keep the hot air from my heatbed in and cold air (+ small child fingers) out... The top, I am still hoping will be "enclosed" by a air curtain coming from my massive cross-flow fan (man that thing blows air! ) I have looked at various enclosures that people have made, and came up with a few design goals: - A plan all along has been to keep my UMO sort of stylish, and as non-bulky as possible, so this applies to the enclosure as well... I decided I wanted the sides to actually sit IN the hole in the frame, rather than on top of it. - I hate hinges, and opening a hinged door requires space next to it, which you often do'nt have (because you are messy) so you have to move stuff around to open the door etc. I wanted to be able to open my enclosure without much space next to the printer - You often have to fix stuff in the printer, take your glass plate out, put a new one in, etc. etc., This means you will often have to open a side or front panel, fix stuff and close it again... Hence it should be an easy "snap-in-place" operation With these things in mind, I went to GitHub and downloaded the open source lasercutter drawingings for the printer... I took the "hole parts" of the drawing, and modified them a bit (added slots for magnets and some fancy safety warning text). Then sent the drawings off to a lasercutter service to have them cut in 5mm. acrylic. Here is the result, loosely placed in the holes of the frame: I will now mount some sqare magnets that I got from ebay, into the slots along the edges of the panels, and drill holes in the edge of the printer frame, to add some cylindrical magnets there. This should snap the panels in place, and make them easy to take in and out of the hole... the whole setup adds no extra bulk to the printer, only a slight weight increase.

You only stated the shell thickness, not the top/bottom thickness... So what were these?

Hey kvones So you wanna keep the stock UM hotend, PEEK and all? And only replace the nozzle? Sure you can just unscrew the stock UM nozzle and put in an E3D one, the threads are the same.

I believe the PTFA lined E3D version is only for. 1.75 mm. filament.. Ive run a E3D v5 on my UMO for a long time, and was very very happy with it... once you assemble it right (get the lower fin cooled, and tighten nozzle while hotend is hot) it works absolutely great and just prints and prints... they have a wide selection of great nozzles as well. I initially went with the easy solution of reusing the UMO heatblock, just fitting an E3D nozzle in it and swrewing it into the cooling fins... After switching to a new electronics board, I now have a v6 heatblock with a 40w 24V heater, and that is srewed into the v5 cooling fins... works absolutely great. The v6 comes with an injection molded fan duct that clips right onto the cooling fins, so the days of getting that wrong and not cooling the bottom fin, are over.

I had some of the same issues I guess... I switched to a Rumba board, but could not get the UltimakerController to work with that no matter how I defined it en Marlin (best I could get was two lines of squares)... So I bought a RepRap SmartController instead and got that to work easily... It is bigger though, so I kind of perfer my old Ultimaker Controller and its retro radio style box -_-

The only really good way to deal with overhangs is to use good cooling, do you have that on your printhead? If you cant get proper results with that, you use support structure under the overhangs to give them something to build on, the cut them away after the print is done, and sand and polish the "scar"... You can create the supports yourself in your modeling program of choice, generate som clever ones using eg. meshmixer, or let your slicer generate some (less clever ones) for you...

After lurking for a long time I just installed a 200 mm. cross flow fan in my UMO and finished my first PLA print. I dont even have the sides closed off yet, but am already in love with the setup... super slick and works a treat...