tommyph1208

well actually the SilentStepSticks are rather expensive However, you should just go ahead... I also got really tired of the sucky std. fan and replaced the cover with a printed one that holds 2 x 50 mm. fans from fractal design... It works a treat, and along with the sss drivers makes the printer super silent... that is, until my new cross flow fan kicks in an sends the printer flying

Hey guys I switched to a RUMBA board in my UM1 and couldn't get my Ultimaker controller to work with that board, so I bought a RepRap LCD/SD Smart Controller instead... Hence I'm selling my Original Ultimaker controller Its used (and showns some small signs of this on the cable connectors etc.) but works fine... Its also been painted white (as the rest of my printer) Im thinking ~40€ (half off new price), make me an offer (buyer pays postage)

I remember reading at one point that it was cheap to produce, with the laptop psu... It irretated the hell out of me once I started hacking my UM, so I ended up switching to a 24V system with a rumba board instead. I think it says 16-20V on the UM board somewhere... You can be dead certain to damage stuff (like the 12V regulator) if you just feed it 24V, but replacing that and maybe some other components, you might be able to make it work... Though I think switching to a 24V board all together is way easier...

NP Thanks for gathering info in this thread, Im sure it will be helpful to alot of others as well. If you one day decide to take a plunge into some of the mods we discussed and want to ask anything (disclaimer: I am no expert in any of this), feel free to shoot me a PM (goes for anyone else stumbling across this thread)

This is turning into a thread hijack - Its the stock feeder... - I switched to RUMBA to better support having a heated bed... Having spend alot of time researching how to do a heated bed upgrade for the UMO (most people use a heater mosfet to drive a relay connecting the bed and an external power supply), I realised that the standard UMO electronics kinda suck when you start doing anything but what is included in the original kit... The 19V system was another thing that bugged me... Its basically not compatible with anything else 3d printer related (most other systems are 12 or 24V), which means you have to get. eg. expensive 19V heaters (that is again... only if you choose to deviate from the original machine, which in all fairness is quite good). - The E3D I choose to be more flexible in terms of materials... It can supposedly print anything, though I have so far only printed PLA with it.... E3D also have a variety of nozzles for their hotends (from 0.25 to 0.8 mm in both brass and stainless steel), I ran a 0.6 mm. for a long while, which gave me super fast prints with little (if any) difference in quality. Theres been some controversy about them clogging with PLA material, but it seems to have been related to not following E3Ds assembly instructions exactly to the letter... You have to make sure the metal cooling fins of the cold-side of the hotend (akward sentence) gets cooled by the small fan attached to it... And when assembling the hotend, you have to heat it to 300 degrees and tighten the nozzle against the heatbreak while hot... Failing these steps and the hotend is useless.. Getting them right, and I think it might be the best hotend out there...

Its a chinese kit sold on eBay by a user here on the forum; Jason_HK, if you search the forum for that name you'll find posts about it... The kit comes with a relay and instructions on how to use it with the UMO, but I have mine running from a RUMBA board, and powered by a 24V Industrial PSU mounted under the printer... Hotend is 24V E3D as well WAF is short for Wife Acceptance Factor http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wife_acceptance_factor

Thx... Its taken a while to get here (and with 2 kids, each disassembly and reassembly cycle takes me forever...), but its definetely got is WAF upped a bit

Hands down, these stepper drivers are crazy! Printing 95 mm./s here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/fgqsl64ld2rtpr7/2015-04-14%2019.06.25.mov?dl=0 I had already done the "remove two pins and solder over a jumper wire" approach with 4 drivers, so that is what I'm using here, and confirming that that works as well... Though the "unsolder CFG resistor" approach seems easier. I have the drivers dialed in at around 0.9V, mounted in a RUMBA board and running 24V on the rest of the machine ex. the 12V fans...

You have to get a couple of things exactly right in order for them to work, and then they are brilliant... I ran a v5 for a long time, with 0 clogs (once I got it right), and I am switching to a v6 right now... 1. Make absolutely sure you followed the assembly instructions to the letter... The "heat up and tighten nozzle" part is extremely critical 2. Make absolutely sure the cold-end fan is always on, working properly AND cools the bottom heat sink fin.. I thought; "how critical can that be!? Its cooling the one right above it!"... Turns out its very important... One can argue that their design is flawed, in the sense that its fairly easy to get some of their assembly and use instructions wrong, and the results of that are pretty bad (not just bad quality,but clogging, useless, very expensive pieces of metal)... Once you do get those steps right though, I don't really think there is anything out there that prints better...

Just finished installing a RUMBA board in my (now very hacked) UMO, and put in 4 SilentStepSticks in the same go... Noise is so much lower than anything I have seen before (I have tried DRV8825 sticks with double steps/mm. as well) I filmed a homing sequence with my iPad, but the video is too large to upload here on the forum, and I cant be bothered compressing it right now, so here is a dropbox link instead: https://www.dropbox.com/s/gd2trsmvwwszaka/2015-04-12%2016.42.44.mov?dl=0 One thing: When finished homing and the steppers are idle, they make a slight whining sound, like they are still holding current and about to do a step or something... It goes away if I select the "disable steppers" option on my Smart Controller... Also if you turn off the printer while they are whining you can hear sort of a "phew" sound... Anyone knows what this means and how to get rid of it? Adjust stepstick current maybe? (All 4 stepsticks currently measure around 1.2V/1.68A)

Alright... This is usually around the time where people bring in Sander, the community manager here on the forums... supposedly, he's good at "pulling treads"... How to get his attention however, I don't know :/

Very weird indeed... my stepper shafts go through the pulley by like 2-3 mm. So I would say you somehow got the wrong type of stepper motors... I wonder how many of those they sent out... I'm sure they would like to know asap. The assembly guide shows the same thing (scroll down a bit and you'll find the part with the stepper motors and pulleys) http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Ultimaker_rev.4_assembly:_Frame

It is indeed in height (mm.) rather than layer, which I found extremely annoying as welll However, there are ways to do it: - First, set up your slicer settings (layer height, speed, temp, etc.) - Check in your layer view, at which layer you would like to pause and note down the number - Multiply the layer number with your layer height setting, to get the pause height in mm. (eg. layer 100 x 0.2 layer height = 20 mm.)... Punch this value into the "pause at height" plugin - Set a parking spot for the plugin as well (a coordinate for the head to move to during the pause), this will prevent the head from oozing on your print and being in the way of your work) - The parking move shows in the layer view (its just a long line from your print object to the parking coordinate), so look for it in your layer view, and check that its at the right height. Remember, you can string several plugings together, incl. the same one multiple times (to eg. oause 3 times during a print) Hope that helps you

Im currently fitting a RUMBA board to my printer (almost done with all the wireing), and wanted to switch to the SSS drivers in the same go... Any idea if this approach works with a RUMBA board as well? The board does not have removeable jumpers for setting steps, but instead have an array of switches, as can be seen here: http://reprap.org/wiki/File:RRD-RUMBA_STEPPER_SWITCHES.JPG Im guessing configuring them the same way as for the UM board should work? The board is supposed to be compatible with popolu stepstick layout so my assumption was that the pins are the same...

This seems like a different approach than what was previously described in this thread (remove two pins from the stepsticks and add a jumper wire)... Care to share a photo or two of your sticks and the motor cables?

Hey guys (and girls) Did anyone in here try out the Rumba electronics board on an Ultimaker: http://reprap.org/wiki/RUMBA And more specifically, did anyone try to connect the Ultimaker Controller to this board? I tried uploading a version of Marlin to the board with #define Ultimakercontroller in Configuration.h, but no matter how I turn the connectors in the EXP1 and EXP2 ports on the board, the best I can get is two lines of white blocks on the LCD display... As an alternative to the definitive answer to my problems, does anyone know where I can find the layout of the Ultimaker Controller pins, so I can compare them to the EXP1 and EXP2 layouts on the Rumba, described on their wiki...?

So the bottom part (the part that prints ok) is that still firmly attached to the buildplate at the time you discover the fail? It looks like a classic example of print becoming loose and being shifted around on the plate, hence newly extruded plastic has nothing to bond to and just becomes the spaghetti you show in the picture... Is your heatbed on?

E3D started making stainless steel nozzles for this exact purpose: http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Extra-Nozzles And this thread discusses how to fit an E3D nozzle on your UM2: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7689-custom-heater-block-to-fit-e3d-nozzle-on-ultimaker-2/

In that case there should be plenty of options available at eg. ebay

AFAIK, if the endstops are mechanical ones you only need the ground and signal pins, the + is for eg. optical endstops that require power to operate

There is very little info in the ebay item description... Its supposedly for the UM2, its injection molded and contains some copper bushings (I believe, at least the UM1, uses bronze here)... Thats it... No measurements, diameters of bushings, size of block, description of belt types etc. By printing some yourself you have more control over these parameters... They aren't very expensive though, so you might want to try them out.. If nothing else, just to harvest the bushings from them (I would do some searching around to find out if copper works as good as broze though... I think the bronze ones are supposed to be self lubricating in a way). If you end up going with a E3D hotend, E3D also sell bronze bushings: http://e3d-online.com/Mechanical/Bronze-Bushing-for-8mm-Rod

I'm pretty sure your ulticontroller will work with other boards like ramps or rumba, so we are talking what, 30-50€? for a new 12 or 24V board and a whole less hassle... Hell, sell your um board on the forums to cover the cost

The standard UMO xy slide blocks are crap, and overly complicated to assemble... Not sure about the injection molded ones for the UM2 be aware that the two machines house different types of belts and pulleys, which can have an effect on what type of slide block to use... You want the bronze bushings regardless (E3D sell these as well) and then put them in something like the reptar blocks found on thingiverse I believe...

Haha... love how everyone (incl. me) thought they had written something inappropriate somewhere... Glad we are all back