DidierKlein

What's the brand of the filament? White is the worst color in general

Maybe you need to relevel your bed but first retighten all the leveling screws before doing it?

I have the same behaviour it's kind of random for me, not sure if i have it on all my printers but my Ultimaker 2 has it for sure

Hi and welcome There are two sensors in the printer: 1 temperature sensor in the head that makes sure that the head temperature is correct 1 temperature sensor in the bed that makes sure that the bed temperature is correct You can monitor this by looking at the tune menu, or by connecting your printer with octoprint that has a graph with those temperature readings (if that's what you mean)

Never tried brassfill on the UM2 as i think it's an experimental material which kind of sticks to teflon if i remember well. ColorFabb HT is not carbon filled, if you want carbon filled it's the XT-CF20 (and indeed you need a stainless steel nozzle for that). ColorFabb HT clear looks interesting as you can print transparent things with it. SemiFlex is ok for the UM2, ninja flex can be printed but it's really not easy at all.

Indeed you probably don't need a Raft on a UM2 I tried it and it works but with PLA, indeed the part sticks to it pretty hard, with ABS it's ok. Just forget raft and print directly on the glass

Pourquoi attendre 3 minutes avec la buse chaude? D'après moi ça ne peut que t'amener des soucis... (filament qui se carbonise à l'intérieure de la buse)

Il y a un sujet dans la partie anglaise qui traite de ça (walls not touching). En gros l'upgrade vers UM2+ semble corrigé le problème pour une raison en particulier: les axes. Il semblerait qu'a force de faire des atomic (entre autre) il se plient légerement et cause ce genre de soucis.

I think it's a big box to

No it's the same basically what kind of issues did you have?

So you have seen zortrax prints and compared them with um2+ prints of the same object in person? I have both printers, i'm sorry i didn't take time to read all of the detailed answers to this topic (you guys are very detailed in these! ) So first of all yes the zortrax gives awesome results, they do seem better if you compare a zortrax print with a regular UM2+ print (in PLA). To me this is due to the material used mainly, so i did some prints with mostly the same settings as used in zsuite with some Ultimaker ABS. I don't have pictures but my conclusion is that the finished result is basically the same. ABS prints look better than PLA prints, the layers show less. What i like on the zortrax: - quality of the prints - Good handling of ABS (of course) - Easy to use - ZSuite is good at generating supports What i don't like on the zortrax: - Raft is mandatory because of the perforated plate - Plate is not easy to clean and will need to be changed after a while - Closed source (that's my main problem actually) - Proprietary filaments although it seems you can even print PLA with it but you loose warranty if you print anything else than their filaments - ZSuite is slow and to limited in parameters - No temperature or speed control during the print So overall i would say: If you are looking for a printer with good quality and aim to print only ABS then go for the Zortrax If you are looking for a printer with good quality and aim to print with different materials and want more control then go for the Ultimaker 2+

I have to try that when i have a new phone mine is completely full :( It looks like a very usefull app for everybody

Hi, From what i understand it's on of the motor that is struggling somehow? You can probably troubleshoot it by doing this: Put your head (machine turned off) to the back, right side make sure it clicks the limit switch (with the rod hitting the switch on the left panel). The go to maintenance -> Avanced -> Home Head. Do the same with the head in front right corner, the back sliding block is hitting the limit switch that is on the back panel. This should identify the motor at least or why it's blocking. Maybe a video would help if you have the opportunity to shoot one?

Hi, I may be wrong, but i think you can change the steps with the firmware from TinkerGnome (which has a lot of other cool stuff too) You can find it here: https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases Can you show us how you mounted that extruder? I'm interested in that mod

oui donc avec 0.6mm top bottom ca fait 3 couches. c'est pas assez. FAut au moins 6 fois la hauteur de couches, soit 1.2mm, ca vaut peut être la peine d'augmenter un peu l'infill aussi vu la taille des trous (peut etre que le top bottom suffira)

Usually this is more related to some loose pulleys or maybe one of the short belts thats touching the panels, not sure why the z should have any effect like this?

Yes indeed with the 0.80mm nozzle you can do a spiralize with 0.80mm walls and probably even bigger, i suspect you can do a 1.2mm wall with it. Or go for the 1mm nozzle from 3dsolex to go even bigger

You can do that also when you do an atomic with some piece of filament squish it against your hot nozzle to make it melt against the exterior of it, and when it's hard enough just pull it like you do for the atomic to take all the junk away and have a nice clean nozzle @aidtopia have you checked your teflon isolator? It might be damaged and adding some friction to the filament which might cause the underextrusion?

It looks a lot like the olsson block pretty impressed by the promo video now lets see a real timelapse ^^ I'm also curious to understand how oozing and head crashes are managed without lifting

Cool merci pour le retour, j'en ai un aussi que je dois encore monter pour voir ce que donne

Hello As tu essayer la solution décrite ici Celle qui consiste a modifier le courant pour le Z ? C'est peut être la cause du z drop

Merci electromu pour ton avis éclairé

Hello Tu trouveras plus d'infos sur cette erreur ici: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/19486-heater-error La PT100B C'est la sonde de température La grosse c'est le cartouche de chauffe la petite la sonde. Plusieurs possibilités: 1. Sonde de température et/ou cartouche de chauffe mal insérée 2. sonde de température défectueuse 3. cartouche de chauffe défectueuse 4. Problème de connection a la carte electronique Est ce que tu as un olsson block? Est ce que tu sa arrive a la premiere couche? Est ce que ta tête touche le support ventilo metallique? Est ce que tu as un support ventilo imprimé?

Hi there, I'm afraid that the official Ultimaker community is not the best place to ask for how to get an illegal version of the printer we all love You can easily find the Bom for the printer you want (not yet for the + version), it's all available on github. After that you'll have to find the parts yourself. Of course the easiest way is to go through an official reseller to get the parts, all of parts are pretty common to 3dprinters (motors, limit switches, pulleys, belts rods etc...). You can probably ask for a local company to cut the frames in another material if you want to save some money. Or go for a UMO + which is a very good printer with everything you need

Just an addition, in spiralize you can easily do 0.6mm shells with a 0.4mm nozzle, do to this, make sure not to print to fast (to prevent underextrusion) and not to big layers (0.1 - 0.15 works well).