skint

I think its the most interesting development in 3D printing I have ever seen... but I bet those gadgets are gonna be $£$£$£$£$

http://3dprint.com/51566/carbon3d-clip-3d-printing/

Welcome to the forum Kevin.

Welcome OAP If your good at AutoCAD then your learning curve for 3D programs shouldnt be too bad. I think all of us "older" ones started with AutoCAD. You`ll read and here all sorts of advice about which 3D package is best, but the best one is usually the one that you put more time and effort into... just like your 10 years experience with AutoCAD. You cant go wrong choosing a UM2

Miles better Bob!

AAARRGHRRGHHHHH!!!! Twisted coils are soooo annoying !! RANT

what about marmite? Love it or hate it.. haha ok enough of me ruining this thread Ballistol arrived though. Works perfectly.

Braddock also uses a UM2. He is a member on this forum, just not seen him post much lately.

I feel better now... knowing that it is DAID`s fault

Just bought Ballistol, might use butter on the z axis lol

Yeah great video. Paul if you get to see this... I`m still eagerly awaiting a PM from you offering me your Terminator head

+1 for thinking I was naughty

Good work Shurik. I think we all deserve a "bonus" for the work we put in selling UMs

I agree haha. Makes no sense.

I have seen printers with a small wire brush near the bed, and prior to every print the nozzle gets pushed through the wire brush, both cleaning off the pre-print material but also keeping the nozzle head nice and shiny n clean

Thought I would get this in early, in case any of us Brits fancy meeting up for a few quick pints http://3dprintshow.com/london-2015/

+1 for Didier I watch the beginning of every print, and grabbing this filament is the first step I grab the filament and gently pull it over the front of the bed making sure there is none of that ugly "woollen ball " on the nozzle.

+1 for what Robert said. It sounds more like your filament is reaching the center of the coil, which means that the filament is tighter and the feeder has to work a little harder to pull the filament, causing your feeder to skip. You are not getting the same problem with your other spool... because its not at the centre.... YET

Welcome to the forum Mekks! Your English is perfectly fine too! Both Faberdashery and Colorfabb are an excellent choice of filament. I use both and the results are great, choice just comes down to a matter of colours and price. The price is not too different unless you start using colorfabb bronze and copperfill ( two other great filaments ). XT is a copolyester which is more like a PLA, but acts more like ABS when printing, i.e should be printed at higher temps like 220-240 ( newer stuff even higher upto 260 ). Whereas I print most PLA`s around 200. The smell of all of them is about the same. Sometimes my house smells like weed, marijuana lol. Storage depends on how long you intend to leave them un-used, probably not very long I have just bought some standard plastic storage containers ( with lids ) from stationary stores, the ones that stack on top of each other. There are a couple of those silica bags of gel inside each box, but to be honest I dont think you need these unless you are going to leave the filament for months n months without use. Some filament comes supplied within a zip-bag and I store filament in these too. Printer can just be left as it is, unless in a very dusty environment. Mine gets the occasional wipe down from dust and cat hairs ( grrrrr cat hairs ) but typically I just leave it alone most of the time and its still printing perfectly Good luck with your purchase, you will have great fun with the UMO!

Brilliant feedback, thank you SP3D! The F1 was my very first choice of printer back when I was deciding to take the plunge into the 3D world. The reasons as you have stated, cost, messiness, UV post work etc were all the things I read about back then which put me off, and I chose the UM2. That UV thing would bug the hell out of me ( come on, I live in the UK sun is limited lol ). It`s also odd how the F1 prefers to tilt your print orientation rather than leaving it flat. I can see with the level of excellent small detail how the F1 and a UM2 would be a great combo! Thanks for the insight.

Oh yeah that`s an ugly print! Have you tried this more than once and get the same issues? It looks as though you are getting some lifting early on at the bottom corners which then starts getting progressively worse. Once a corner starts to lift its hard to get rid of it, because the nozzle starts to push and pull the model at the same corner every time. Try levelling your bed as accuratly as you can before printing again, and I would also look at printing at 35-40mms with a temp of 200. Is the model yours? I would also try chamfering those edges instead of rounds. Let us know how you get on! If you upload the model I dont mind having a go for you to see if my print replicates yours.

LOL sigi, we should be drinking a few beers after skiing and then going into your happy corner...not sure a sauna is best for the UM2 haha

Faberdashery

So... Paying modellers £ + Store costs + Printer costs + Time + Maintenance etc = Selling to customers on the same day. So what if the customer requires a vase which takes 1 hour for the designer to model, 6 hours to print, 1 hour for post cleanup... that`s an 8 hour day done for just 1 customer. Your prices are going to have to be astronomical to cover costs never mind make a profit. I still cant see ultimakers or any other similar printers at this level being able to offer a good business model based on selling prints alone. Selling filament and printer accessories yes, but the store front seems so out of date now that this " interweb" surrounds us. Wish you all the best, hopefully you prove us wrong

I have only tried a very small sample of copperfill but from what I have seen there is not much difference between that and bronzefill. Depending on the design of the support ( I tend to build in my own rather than rely on software ) bronzefill breaks away much easier, as it is a little more brittle than regular PLA`s.