ultiarjan

These results make me want to try a dual setup again someday Curious about you oozing control. I can be very patient .... but any ETA on when you share more details? How do you deal with the borders between the to materials? Cura does not have a way to set an overlap? or does it? or did you do it in CAD?

Thats impressive! you really know how to make people curious

not sure if this is a new issue, but I just noticed that in portrait mode on my phone (galaxy S4) I can't like a post, the button shows in landscape mode.

I don't think it has ever been the intention to pause for a full night... would also make no sense as you would be wasting much energy as the heated needs to stay on anyhow... The use imho is material change and inserting objects like f.e. nuts. When you use a custom feeder or the + feeder it's easy to manually push some fillament to prime the nozzle.

Ah I see, you also designed a new block? what thread do you use? is it compatible with the "olsson block nozzles" (or E3D)? at least for single nozzle printing? can you share why you don't use the olsson block?

That's actually pretty quick, if you take f.e. the Ultibot (336 layers) and assume you need to switch every layer, it would add about 45 minutes to a 1 hr print. Till what temp. do you let the nozzle cool thats not in use?

I guess that's cause you use the 35W heaters. with the 25W heater you would be ok, but I understand you want to use the 35W for faster heatup. I think you could look into this more, f.e at the 3Dsolex method used to implement the heatbed into the UMGO. I just would not like to use bluetape.

Far from convinced in what terms? What do you still need to think that this is a working and easy to use dual extrusion setup? What video do you need? OK. I'll go the extra mile :)why don't you send us a part that you want to see printed, we print it and I'll send you the photos and maybe a timelapse? No need for any special object, just print f.e. the famous 2-color tree frog by nervoussystem http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:329436 I'dd like to see a video where we can also see the wipetowers, and close up photo's without cleanup... I suspect due to the aircooling that it takes pretty long to heat/cool the 2 hotends during each change, how long does it take? what hot/cold temperatures do you use? This does not need to be a problem (dual printing on f.e. the felix also takes ages) but people need to be aware of it. The lack of a lifting system produces an extra risk of damaging the part with the cold nozzle, obviously a dual extruder will per definition increase the failure rate of prints, I'm curious what the failure rate is with your setup. I like the fact that you use 2x olsonblock, at least this makes it easy to remove the 2th nozzle, so this setup will not negatively impact your single nozzle prints. My personal experience tells me precise leveling the height of the 2 nozzles is not that easy. I damaged quit a few hot-end-isolators in the process. No video will convince me this dual setup is 'easy'. Single extruder 3d printing is not even 'easy'. Any dual setup will make it exponentially less easy..... if you've seen my magnetic changer experiments you know I gave it a try

@sambianchibazzi: talking about cooling, is that why you print on blue tape (I assume with the heat bed off) as the UM2 power supply can handle the 2th extruder also with heated bed on.

I understand this is an easy way to mount the feeders, but the handle on the 2th feeder will be difficult to reach, and you have totally no visibility on the feeder anymore, and with this feeder and the official filament change routine you may need to remove some plastic sometimes with a pair of tweezers.... (it helps/prevents a lot when you use the wedge) I see a few extra teflons are supplied... raising the question if the air cooling is sufficient....

FYI, Seems the Italians started to sell the + feeder separately for 99,- Pretty interesting if you have a relatively new UM2. http://www.shop.creatr.it/en/um2-spare-parts-and-upgrades/201-feeder-upgrade-ultimaker-2.html

To be honest I'm far from convinced. Seems like the classic fixed setup. So I see a new cooling block, but apart form that what does this kit bring? I need to see many more close up photo's and video..... To me the most interesting of this post is the availability and price (99,-) of the separately sold new + feeder.

Oh and it would probably result in a more unified experience between umo and um2....

I was not clear. Sure we need it. Just think it's better to do it in cura and not in the printer. That way it's more visible and users will learn from it as they see the used profile settings. And we can get rid of the hassle of the setup of the material file in the printer.

For PLA I never use 260 to do an atomic. More like 230. That's really enough imho. I would advise against 260 as you run the risk of overheating the pla and making things worse iso better....

When ever I see someone claim "one click 3dprinting" I can't take them serious.....

For any beginner I would advice to only use pla. You should only use abs with good ventilation, but in a school it's probably safer to stay away from it altogether (toxic fumes). The infill problem may be the speed settings. Some cura versions have a default infill fixed speed of 80 which is just stupid. Set the infill speed to something close or the same of the print speed. You can also set it to 0 and it will automatically take the print speed.

Care to share a bit more? I really hope for some serious simplification.... getting rid of the nozzle vs material settings in the printer, and setting temp during slicing ....

I assume the star is separately printed inlay work?

I tried verbatim... did not like it at all... had more difficulty to get it to stick to the bed than with any other pla.

Correct.... I think it's stated somewhere in the upgrade manual... but I'm not sure...

first.... don't panic! no worries, the printer can easily survive stuff like this.... Check if the x axis is sticking out enough at the left side to push the end stop.... both xy endstops are in the left/back of the printer, check if they are both pushed in when you move the head to the left/back. I think the 2+ firmware upgrade also does a factory reset, so you start with a bed calibration, thats all normal.

test run .... scaled 1.6x added a thin wall between the legs. ....... if they move to quick there falling down like a domino ......

yes, install 15.04.5 https://ultimaker.com/en/products/cura-software

I guess it was designed like this because mirroring it would require a firmware change to adapt the rotation direction of the motor..... I like your design.... did you already publish the drawing & BOM somewhere ?