ultiarjan

Ok, did a few more, with fan on early at 100% there's a little lifting off the salt bed, while at the same settings with "tesa easy stck" there's almost no lifting off the bed. For now I think that for PET the tesa stick is still the best.

just did another PET test where the part contained a small unconnected area of about 2 x 5 and it failed on the salt bed.... edit, tried again, this time it's ok, seems to work best (more fine film of salt) when spreading the water with the bed hot.

@flowalistik that's interesting, are you saying you also use the sugar mix with ABS? at what bed temperature? (I usually use 95-100c)

Just did a test with bed at 65c, with refill pet (which is what I happend to have in the printer atm) with a quickly drawn model with small contact area tentacles based on geerts design, but the comparison print on clean glass was already perfect without lifting corners :)I pulled the object off the bed at 60 celcius, just to feel how good it was attached. did this in both cases, it seemed to be a bit more attached with the salted glass, but it did not feel like a lot of difference, think I need to make a more challenging test object, and/or try with PLA. I'll do some more test, I like the salt bed idea a lot.

#geert_2 is claiming that with salt the item just pops off the bed when cooled down... so it sounds like salt maybe better than sugar ? I'm starting a test just now....

Many um people are on this forum but for parts you need to ask um resellers. They stoped direct sales.

Just returned from a short holiday... did already print the original and a larger version with a thin separation wall between the legs. The original does not walk at all.... the larger adapted version sort off walks a bit.... but nothing like moviestar quality....

Yeah the new smaller spoolholder on the + is not the best for everything, f.e the carton "refill" spools don't really fit. Maybe you can get a old (longer) spoolholder from the UM2 from someone (or your local supplier), otherwise just print something like this; https://www.youmagine.com/designs/low-friction-um2-spoolholder

I only see umo+ prices over 1400 in Europe..... at 995 vs 2499 I would also go for an umo+ and maybe add an um2+ upgrade kit..... Edit. Ah Italy is interesting.... I only checked ne/de/be

We had about 4 cm of snow in the north of the Netherlands also

I've got nothing against the UMO+ but at 1650,- the UM2 is a pretty good deal, and vs the 1445,- of the UMO+ it's only 14% more ....

Yep! What you describe is basically what you can do with any pla....

Can you make it so it also works on skirt..... as I like to misuse skirt (ofset of 0.001, and many lines) to get only brim on the outside of the item. Or even simpler, add the feature "outside only" to brim.

wood-glue and water I heard before.... but why mix in the "Fensterreiniger" ? how do you mix it, do you just make some and keep the mix ready? can you store it for a longer time? I'm still using cubestick for abs, but need to find an alternative.....

There must be a software/profile difference.... purely from hardware it should be the other way around, the 2+ feeder can handle higher volume, but if you want quality prints you probably print slow anyhow..

http://www.trideus.be/nl/ultimaker-2.html if you're quick... they still have 6 Ultimaker2's (without the upgrade) for only 1650,- NEW.

I think the ultimaker abs is around 80c. But that's based on old info. I have not bought UM abs for a looonngggg time. I now only use abs with a transition temp >100c for example the stuff from makerpoint.

Agree the layer view is far from perfect, and super slow, but you can move a single layer using control + arrow up/down Machine settings are stored in the json files, +1 for getting a proper machine settings menu. Directory, totally agree, also for the profiles it would be good to be able to set a default path. But my main issue is the annoying temperature per nozzle size setting since the UM2+ I think this is really a poor implementation and I hate it. Please give us the option of setting temperature in Cura, for the UM2+ (or any ultimaker).

I'm getting some trust issues with cura 2.1. Looks like there's some sort of disconnect between the gui and the engine, but I can't reproduce. Had a few issues. When I changed from brim to skirt (and I had some detail brim setings turned on) the item still kept the brim, even though I changed a few other settings to force a reslice.... Other thing, I turned of the cooling fan, but the G-code produced still had cooling... pretty annoying when printing ABS. And I also had a few times that cura just wont slice, the gui stays responsive, but slicing never starts, left it for some time but had to restart cura eventually.

no idea if a pancake is sufficient, but I thought the same when I saw this... think a nema17 is enough to bend your axis

Yeah, check your XY axis, take them out and rol them on something really flat, I use my stone kitchen worktop.... I had the same, it was solved after installing the upgrade kit... and I believe the new axis solved it. don't forget to align them when you put them back in (see the upgrade kit manual for help on that)

Oh don't worry, I'm aware of that, I just though I had already fixed that but apparently not. Labern's fancap also isn't really suitable in PLA, I'd guess? I printed mine in ABS with a little kapton, using it for at least half a year with no deformation, guess you are right that if printed in PLA, or even XT it will probably deform. I see you're in the Netherlands.... I'm in a good mood today... I can print you one in ABS if you want.... just PM me. I had the top lines not closing, and I never solved it until I got the upgrade kit with the new feeder. I really think it's a mechanical matter, specially when your filament is tense in the bowden, f.e. the last part of a spool, will make things worse.

Les, you made me really curious about what happend, I don't see how the black mesh can end up in the feeder.... To keep the mesh out out the way of the spool and force it nicely on the side of the feeder, you can move the first clip behind the bowden tube...

Depends how old your machine is I guess....and if you have the 2+ upgrade kit all wires are long enough. I assume all new PT100's are also only with long wires (don't know, but i guess there's only one type). Most wires you can just extend, solder and extra piece to it. If you want to see how much extra length you have just take of the electronics cover....

How did you position the thing on the bed, my guess is on the stock 2+ the left side is better than the right side. Here I made a comparison between the stock 2+ and labern's version, where the overhang part was on the right side, and labern is clearly better than stock 2+ https://ultimaker.com/en/community/20409-um2-upgrade-kit-first-impression-and-some-tips