ultiarjan

Neem aan dat je de trideus aanbieding hebt gezien... als ik jou was zou ik de UM2 nemen en die 650 euro in mn zak steken. Op termijn zal UM de feeder uit de upgrade kit apart verkopen, heb je toch flink wat geld overgehouden, maar zelfs wanneer direct je de complete upgrade kit koopt hou je geld over, en heb je een leuke hoeveelheid reserve onderdelen. Ninjaflex is voor beide printers een uitdaging, iets minder flexibel materiaal is makkelijker. Hoe dan ook, als je begint met een 3d printer, start met PLA, leer eerst door veel te doen, en lees je suf op dit forum. Begin niet aan ninjaflex voor je je printer door en door kent...

I did share some experience in the past; https://ultimaker.com/en/community/11225-fuel3d-scanify I know, it's a bit decadent after spending so much money, but I did not really took the time to get to know the unit really well... it's stil somewhere on my list It's really important to know WHAT you want to scan. Although the resolution of the Fuel3D is really nice, it has a VERY limited range of use, in terms of size of the item scanned and materials that are scanable.

You should do the height adjustment by turning the hot-end-isolator until you feel the added pressure. The 1 mm is just a starting point. No need to take it apart, you can just turn the hot-end-isolator by sticking a small allen key into on of the holes. In some cases it turns difficult, I mostly noticed it with the combination of an old hot-end-isolator and a new olsson block, in that case you may need to do it while the block is hot.

I just checked 5 ... 1 did not sink in completely. Like you I can't tell anymore if it's an Ultimaker part or 3Dsolex sourced. I think it's important that you can "feel" the pressure you put on the spacer. So I would advice before mounting to only put in the hot-end-isolator (push as deep as it can) and than feel if there is any friction when pushed in the bottom aluminium part, as that would give you a false sense that you tightened the spacer enough.

Duplicating a mount to take 2x E3D's is simple, but what do you want with it? Dual extrusion with two fixed nozzles does not work, it's just a big waste of your time. At minimum you need a system to lift the nozzle not in use, or totally get it out of the way (like the magnetic mount) Besides that, a E3Dv6 is a pain to adjust in height, so you would also need to build this into the mount.

Yeah your right, the stringing is easy to clean. If mechanical properties & temperature resistance are important, and you don't want to use ABS (much cheaper...) you might also want to look at the new HT, at least on paper a better alternative than XT; http://colorfabb.com/co-polyesters/colorfabb-ht

should indeed not be there, if the hot-end-isolator will drop the half mm (or what is it) you will loos all pressure of the PTFE.... and get leaks... you probably don't have any pressure right now...

Just tested XT on the E3Dv6 myself, had no issues, prints easy. That said, I don't really like XT, although maybe ok for mechanical stuff the stringing is absolutely horrible at every reasonable temperature. Below test is a prints in 5 degree steps going down from 255c to 235c. Layer bonding, which I had plenty off issues with when using XT, seems good now. The stringing is real bad, but apart from that things look pretty ok, black just looks terrible on pictures... And there's some green ABS at the bottom, I was to lazy to properly clean out the green abs I used before more on stringing, it's bad already normally, but in this case extra bad as you need to use less retraction on the E3Dv6 compared to the UM2. I used bed 70c, fan 50%

Sure... mayonaise will do the trick

maybe try a different cleaner? I normally use handsoap, sometimes (but not a lot) in-between prints I wipe the glass with some cleaning alcohol on a paper towel.

SLA also needs support, don't think it will be much better than fff in this case. SLS is afaik not yet affordable anywhere... so I think you need to go the Shapeways route.

hmmm, although I feel for you, Ultimaker is already doing a lot for the 3D printing community. Their investment in the development of Cura is used by many competitors. And now you expect them to invest time/money in helping people who bought counterfeit products? Think that's a bit much to ask from them....

And for some quick learning check this; http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/30-getting-better-prints

This stuff will not work on a fff machine in any decent way. Save yourself the frustration and have it done at shapeways.com

I don't understand your question.... are you mixing the terms walls and layers? What exactly are you trying to achieve?

Let's wait for the photo.... can't imagine an issue with the jet nozzle... already use them for a long time no issue.... Please also share your settings used with the photo.

Oh. And out of curiosity what printer do you use on 1.75?

First.. 260 is too hot imho for pla. No need to go over 230 I think. I also keep pushing plastic in when its cooling till I feel the resistance really going up. Not sure but probably at least till 190c. The best pull temperature varies per material just try with higher temperature and if it's still a "string" do it again a bit cooler. And make sure to park you head in a corner not to bend your xy axis!

agree

Hope you did not actually tare it down but just loosend the motor screws ......

for me the other way around .. so a good combination I think cooling problems are the most common issue with the E3D, are you sure your fan is ok? original (or similar) airflow? correct voltage for the fan?

Just checked in beta 2.1.99 of 11/03 (not the latest, thats from 18/03 but i don't have it on the pc i'm at atm) Firmware update does not work at all, I tried, assuming to be able to cancel out, just to check if the custom option was there, but I immediately got a firmware upload complete, with no warning or selection options. So it's not there, but I assume that it will probably make it back, i'll check again later in the 18/03 version and then report in the beta testing tool.

I assume this is old Cura? not a programmer but I don't see any get profile settings for the line width? do you know how/if this changed in 2.1?

you can put some cooling paste on the heatbreak to get a better connection with the coolingribs. I only use my E3Dv6 for ABS, only had failures with PLA, but it's on my to do list (for a long time...) to try XT and nGen. I'll see if I can do it somewhere next week. I had cooling issues at first, but now I can print with the heated chamber (ABS) at least at 50c with no issues, I do use coolingpaste, just some regular PC stuff I had.

And can you share a close up picture?