ultiarjan

And also check the specs for your ABS. I basically see 2 main types in the stores where I buy. Some, like the Ultimaker ABS (at least in the past, did not buy it for a long time) have a softening temperature around 80c, I can print this fine at lower temperatures, like 245c. The stuff I find more useful for some applications, with a softening temperature over 100c needs much higher temperatures, I print it around 270c using a E3Dv6.

I have no idea what would be a normal tolerance, but with 3,7% off it seems it should be possible to get it better. On the other hand Ultimaker worked a long time on this feeder so I somehow think the steps value should be ok....

@bonduhill sharing a picture or video makes it a lot easier for people to help you.

I installed the upgrade kit on my 2 years old Ultimaker2 and thought I'd share some first impressions and tips. Installation; After long and successful service it became time to say goodbye to the 'railssytem' always loved my feeder but I trust the new +feeder will be better.. I thought installation was pretty easy, though I can imagine for less technical people some parts may a bit scary, specially handling the electronics, but in general I think the Ultimaker2 is very difficult to break so it should not be an issue... just do it. There was a lot of discoloration on my mainboard, think the plastics parts loose flexibility over the years as some connectors were pretty hard to get loose. Some stuff that could be a bit more clear in the manual; The metal feeder plate sits on the feeder when you receive it, it's loose you can just pull it off. To easy push the new cable bundle through the housing, fold it at the end of the black 'mesh', push it through, hold the loose cables then pull back the mesh to make some space and finally pull the individual cables and connectors through the hole. When your aligning the axis, before tightening the pulleys make sure to push them to the outside, against the wall, when done check if there's no side-play in the axis. Also, just before tightening a pulley wiggle the belt (top and bottom) a little with your finger to evenly distribute the tension. My pre-assembled head was pretty tight, I could not get any rotational movement in the hot-end-isolator so I decided to take it apart and put it together with less tension on the PTFE, no idea if it was really needed but better-save-than-sorry. I afterwards learned UM is using sort of a spacer tool during assembly so it was probably alright. I usually assemble by putting it all together with still some play in the hot-end-isolator and then put the pressure on by turning the hot-end-isolator. Here's a picture of the metal spacer, if you have an older UM2 you can use a printed version. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-spring-replacement https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-spring-replacement The metal fan holder has a lot of clearance around the olsson block, but be careful to align the nozzle in the middle, so it will not touch the side, if you ever take it off. To attach the stickers, I first cleaned the housing with some paper towel + alcohol. cut the sticker in half and cut of the not needed black parts, place it using a piece of transparant tape, remove the back of the sticker and attach it. I used the back of a screwdriver to rub it on and waited a few minutes before removing the top layer of the sticker. After you're done with the alignement of the axis/pulleys, push the head diagonally, more important than the total friction; it should move straight without zigzagging. I installed the @tinkergnome 16.3+ firmware, and only got terrible prints with huge pillowing, I suspect a firmware issue causing the cooling fans to turn slower (still unconfirmed) so I installed the latest Ultimaker firmware from cura and all was fine again (except that I hate the UM firmware and really miss all information in my display). first impression; The first thing that made me very happy is the silence, I never replaced the old hot end fan, and the new sunon is just sooooooo much more quiet. I also like the feeder, it may not be a fair comparison as I used to have my feeder and motor on the outside, but I find the new feeder pretty quiet, I had expected a lot more noise from the gears. I tried some old PLA, last on the spool so pretty springy, and it prints with no issue. It also seems my top layers are nice and closed again, which was not the case before, would not surprise me if the old banana xy axis also had something to do with this ... I don't really like not having an open view on the knurled wheel, but at least the type Ultimaker is using should be pretty self cleaning so it should be oké. I'll open the feeder after some more printing hours just to see if all is still clean. I have not tried any flex material yet, but I expect to be able to get to higher speeds than on the old feeder. For me the main missing function is the manual opening of the feeder, but thanks to an idea of @nicolinux this is also sort-off solved. I can understand the Ultimaker designers did not want the feeder handle to stick out, but I would have preferd the handle to be a bit longer, to make it more comfortable to open it. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/wedgebot-for-ultimaker2 Just FYI, the old and new feeder motor; New metal fanholder. To be honest, just based on looking at the still asymmetric design I was expecting the 2+ version to perform a lot worse than the @labern fanshrout. To test I made a similar test print, both after installing the full upgrade kit, same colorfabb PLA, same gcode. I think the labern version still performs best, but the difference is a lot less than I expected. If you print at higher temperatures a lot and just want a 'no hassle' solution you probably want to stick to the metal 2+ version. I really like it that UM replaced the the 'self tap screws' which could be the cause of horrible noise, for m2.5 bolts. If you only print PLA at relatively low temperatures or have a specific need for the extra cooling, you probably should try laberns version. I printed my old one in ABS (the type with a melting temp >100c) and never had to replace it. Here are the results of the test, laberns version on the left, the metal 2+ on the right. The test starts printing on 210c moving to 190c in steps of 5c. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/quick-temperature-fillament-test * some of the tips came from Dennis (UM), the sticker tip came from Joris (the guy from the printed elephant and the TNT trumpet commercial)

Latest rumour. ... it will be next week..

You can alway try to reinstall the firmware. You can do it from cura. Take the latest stable version and make sure to have the correct printer type selected in cura. Oh... and connect with the USB cable off course. ..

I think I'll pass

to add, try printing slower or hotter. and with 0.15 layers and 0.6 top/bottom, you only lay 4 top layers, that's not enough imho. try at least 6 layers, so in this case 6*0.15 = 0.9

Thanks!

I installed the UM2 upgrade kit, but had some issues with the Tinker 16.3+ firmware. So I went back to Ultimakers 2+ firmware, but thats a real pain when you're used to Tinkers information. So while @tinkergnome seems to be a bit busy with other stuff atm (thats cool, we all have a life..) I like to use Tinker 16.1 and change the e-steps. So my questions; - can you use a negative value with M92 to reverse the motor ? - what are the e steps with the UM2+ feeder ? - alternatively, where are the e steps set in marlin ? can't find it...

If you're in Europe you may want to have a look at the Belgium reseller Trideus, they still have some NEW ultimaker2 's in stock and there selling them now for 1650, including olsson block.... They are not upgraded to 2+, but you can always buy the new feeder later when it becomes available for sale separately. https://ultimaker.com/en/community/20286-ultimaker-2-promotie http://www.trideus.be/nl/ultimaker-2.html

Or just buy from a reliable supplier? I mainly use Colorfabb, makerpoint and faberdashery and have never seen anything like this....

+1 just a list format would be much more practical.

Just added the .stp to YouMagine.... have fun!

What glue brand did you use? How did you mix it? I'm still looking for a cube stick alternative, which I guess migh t also be pva...

sure, I'll add it to YM, but can't do it now, maybe late tonight.

Hmm, I think it's your turn again ....

The minute I saw this I knew I had to do something with it no need for magnets anymore

time to unwrap it

@tinkergnome Just downgraded to the Ultimaker2+ firmware (cura 15.04.05) and it did not do a factory reset. Something more serious, I think there's an issue with the fan speed in 16.03+ seems my fans never go on full power... also when set to 100% manually they only seem to be on 50% orso... I downgraded and now the fans seem to be cooling much harder again...

Guy's...... as Robert asked before .... please stop this .... you're both just repeating yourself....

I just upgraded my 2 year old UM2 with the upgrade kit, and used 16.03+, the runtime stats do indead reboot the machine... lights out... and back to main menu. What I also think is different from other versions I used; - after installing 16.03+ the machine starts with "first run" - after bed leveling (tried 2 times) the machine asks for which material to use, not perse bad, but I don't like that it's like in first run, complete with the "lets make your first print".

Check ALL pullys including those on the motors. Make sure they are really tight... the allen key should flex a bit...

Just opened the um2 upgrade kit. The xy bearings are clearly oiled. So if ultimaker delivers them oiled i assume that's the way it should be....