ultiarjan

In case you have an specific issue with the default nozzles provided you can also try the E3D nozzles in your tests, as they have a different internal geometry that may be better for your specific type of prints.

FYI, still running 16.01, no problem here ...

and obvious, but sometimes overlooked, not only set the extrusion accordingly, but also the xy movement. Setting a smaller line will result in more lines next to each other = increased print time.

About the actual issue, first check if a set screw really is missing... if so look in your machine if you can find it somewhere. A set screw can get loose, but it actually falling out during transport would surprise me. If the screw is just loos tighten it with the supplied Allan wrench (although I use a torx screwdriver myself mostly) and really really really tighten it..... but be careful not to damage it (yeah thats a difficult combination...) If u use the allan key it should really be so tight it will flex a bit.

Some filament are more "springy" and sort off partially unwind on the spool. If you fix the end of the spool to another winding of the plastic it's easier for it to pas underneath another loop then when you fix it to the side of the spool.

Het flexibel spul van makerpoint, MP-flex45 is 'semi flexibel' minder flexibel dan b.v. ninjaflex. dit spul print prima op een ultimaker, ook zonder olie, wel langzaam printen (10-20) ik gebruik "cubestick" als lijm, want op een schoon glasbed hecht het slecht.

pretty happy with this machine atm ...

Ultimaker2 is not sold as a kit. Look at the poor quality of the knob.... it's clearly a fake, don't buy it!

I find it hard to believe this is a temperature thing. ... Please share your settings. Did you set the correct nozzle size?

Not sure but I think it was just standard pla settings.. it printed very easy.

I'm not surprised... considering the profiles in new cura also use a default line width smaller than the nozzle size. Keep those results coming... THANKS for testing!

I just use normal office printer paper.... always available and works fine... and as it has some structure you feel the smallest friction very good.

Nozzles have a much longer lifespan than a month, they can last years I think when you just use them for abs/pla. only when using abrasive materials (metal fill, glow-in-the-dark) they don't last that long. Printing that base plate standing up will never produce a good result, crazy overhangs, no base volume. But I don't see the issue, fit's fine on an UM2, even with brim ....

E3D has a few different types, but all the nozzles for the E3D-V6 will fit. http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Extra-Nozzles and it looks like 3dsolex.com will come up with an interesting alternative ... http://www.3dprintingforum.us/viewtopic.php?t=4

@sandervG maybe Paul can explain in blog?

Yes but using the clips will prevent the filament end from bending....

I strongly advice against using these printed clips, as they make it more likely to get tangled filament IMHO. The only way to avoid this is to grab the filament after removing from the printer and immediately fixing it to the spool edge. I use these clips for it.

Don't think that's correct... think you need to change the heater max temp in configuration.h

don't know much about semiconductors..... but I tried protopasta's conductive once ... https://ultimaker.com/en/community/16562-protopasta-conductive-pla

yeah, I like to change stuff myself This is my feeder, it's a bit of a beefed up version of robert's feeder. I use it already for a long time and I still like it... (but maybe I'll also try the new upgraded UM2+ feeder) https://www.youmagine.com/designs/feeder-for-ultimaker-2-rail-system

Oh, and I use the 40 heater from E3D, and changed the PID settings to get a stable temperature. I only use this machine for ABS, think PLA and E3Dv6 is a pretty bad combination.

sorry for switching to English, you don't want to read my German I wonder why you made the setup so complicated, with the change of XY axis/blocks ? I just changed the head design and kept all other stuff original. Kept the original side fans, changed the hot-end-fan for a 24Volt I got from E3D. I'ts still on the to-do list to make a few changes to the head, specially the fan mount, but I keep doing other stuff ...