Labern

The black areas on the rods are from not enough lubricant. You need to regularly lube them with a drop of sewing machine oil. Wash the black off with a rag with some sewing machine oil on it. Then more the head around and repeat till it nice and clean. Don't use wd40 or crc

The PTFE coupler is A main reason for this so if you find everything else is good the you will need to remove the coupler and check or replace it.

Some tubes have been known to have tight spots. If you remove the tube at both ends, push some filament through and see if there is any friction. Try to use filament the has been through the feeder. Also heat the nozzle and manually push some filament through the top of the hot end. It should start coming out the nozzle with only a small amount of force. You may also need to pull you feeder apart and check it and give it a good clean.

Manually extruding can be extrude filament way faster then you print. So can be normal for it to "tick" If it's happening then it's the sign of something wrong in your filament path. Bypassing the tick is just masking another problem. Wouldn't fixing the root cause be the best option?

If you hold the nozzle and are able to tilt the block back and forth by hand then I would think that the thread in the Heater Block would be damaged. If it's firm but still bent then I would think the Isolator Tube is bent. Both can be brought from the store in provided links.

The black areas on the rods are from not enough lubricant. You need to regularly lube them with a drop of sewing machine oil. Wash the black off with a rag with some sewing machine oil on it. Then more the head around and repeat till it nice and clean. Don't use wd40 or crc

Would make for interesting atomic pulls This is ok for 2 color prints or using materials that require the same printing temps. But has limited flexibility. Even different colors or brands of PLA can require different Temps to get them to print really nice.

That kink kink sound is from the extruder. It means there is to much pressure trying to push the filament through. Learn to do the atomic pull found HERE to see if you can clear it.

Never print with pla over 240 degrees. And even 240 is high.like stu_le_brew said you shouldn't need to go over 230. You should do the atomic pull a few times to make sure the nozzle is nice and clean on the inside. As you may have Burnt the material in the nozzle it may take a few pulls to get it all out.

Pet is simular to xt so should be fine

@Labern - any news about this? Is it working? I received all the parts, found the the heater pad interfered with the 2 front clips. I cut sections out but had to patch the element. I installed it all ready to wire but found out about the 3D solex one. So I never progressed further.

You can drill a small hole in the end of the heater block and push the sensor out. If it's really stuck that's really the best option. I have found with patience and gripping as close to the block as possible and rotating back in forth while pulling can work it loose.

I'm not 100% sure of all the changes but it was mainly done as lots of people wanted the fan to switch off because of the noise

This is normal and is a safety feature to stop the feeder motor grinding your filament. It means that there is to much pressure on your feeder motor. This could be on the roll side like a filament tangle or it can be from pressure build up on the other side of the feeder. Printing to fast. blocked nozzle. damaged bowden tube deformed PTFE coupler the list goes on. I would start with an atomic pull and see how it goes then. after that then look more in depth.

Or even better; Modify the head so you can bump the object off the plate. Especially with a heated bed this should be possible. Just cool down the bed, and smash the head into the object to push it out of the printer. Sounds like a good plug-in for cura.

Well... Thats a good idea. We should make complainer killer robots! if you had them at the release of the new forum then there wouldn't be to many UM owners left alive.

If lay flat doesn't work then you can hold shift and do smaller rotational adjustments.

it's already glowing red underneath. Well actually it's more deep purple.

yip, that one or UM2 extended

V2.1.4 is the new board. its not supported on the older ones

Yes the small fan can run for hours. how old is your printer? the new ones the small fan turns off when it cools down to 40deg

For switching off the whole printer you can use one of THESE But you need to find one that works in your country. I always add extra time to what cura says just in case.

Fan is 12v but the fans a wired together and think the output on the board is 24v

No It doesn't have this function. When the print is finished it will cool down but stayed powered on. If I am to leave it and the print will finish when i'm away then I normally turn the LED's off. this can be done when the machine is printing under TUNE, and set LED's to 0%. You can also set it so the LED's turn off automatically when the printer is finished or to do different things under expert settings on the printer. or you could get a power point timer and have it switch off after a set time. I always add an extra 30mins on the timer just encase.

on the UM2 this is done on the printer its self under material settings not in cura. You can create a new material profile and save a different temperature under that profile or you can edit a current profile on the printer. If you want to change it in cura the you need to change the Gcode Flavor under machine settings to RepRap.