kmanstudios

Yer quite welcome

Another thing you can do with the model is to split it at the point you want support to stop and use 'per model settings' to define which model generates support or not. Then use '\Merge Models" to align them properly. I have done this and it works quite well. Also, if you go to support settings and use the 'horizontal expansion' you can really reduce a lot of the support material used and how far up it goes. It is defaulted to 3mm, but I usually go with 0.25mm. I am going to have to look at Tetgen though.,....that seems interesting.

I gave up on the priming tower because of the time it extended printing by as well as sheer waste of material. I use the ooze shield a bit every now and then, but for the most part, I am finding (I am on Cura 3.0.4) that it does quite nicely without it. I do have to play a bit with initial temps due to the differences in materials, but it does work quite well.

It is not difficult to do. But, take a tip from da Clumsy Noob: Take it off the machine first!! Yes, I pulled the back off once with the main body attached and it kinda flew apart and I lost the grommet and a spring. Taking it off the machine will allow you to put it flat on a table and then unscrew things without it wanting to jump out at you. And, now you know why I am da Clumsy Noob.......

The UM3 is a print core and by design, not really able to change nozzles only. But, gr5 may be able to help.

When I have more free time, I gonna have to give this a shot. I am thinking one cannot have enough filament dryers.

When you say you can get it out in 'manual', what do you mean? You say you are on a UMO+, but have you updated your firmware? And you have done cold pulls to really make sure it is cleaned? Even if you can get it out in 'manual', is it coming out fully or smaller than it should be? For instance, when I use 'move filament' on my UM3E (not sure if there is an equivalent on the UMO+) it could come out, but not in full diameter and would clog during a print very quickly. And, it would come out if I took a piece of filament and pushed it in by hand with the bowden tube uncoupled. Deep cleaning solved both issues.

I like it

Forum ate my reply...Grrrrrrrr I have done this myself, more times than I care to admit. I would be for the color bar on the side and not the whole text fields otherwise certain colors could make issues for people with color sensitivities and, some colors and text just do not work well at all.

I have not had that problem with either Win 10 or 8.1. I am running on I7 chips and Nvidia graphics on all my machines.

I have found that sanding is only good if painting; at least for me so far. But I did find that using an x-acto knife does a pretty good job of someone is decent at whittling. You can also cover it with a clear coat of some kind too.

It is a little more than just a box. It gots da bowden tubes to guide the filament and the hygrometer is nice to keep an eye out on how moist the environment and the built in rollers to all for easy spooling. But, you are right, it will not dry out filament that is already soaked.

This reminds me of the time when everybody thought they could make a good website because they could get Dreamweaver and did not need to learn how to hard code anything. Drove the price down dramatically to the point I got out of the biz completely. And, yeah, knowing the time it takes to print these things, and using a decent filament, and expensing out the amortization of these things, I cannot beat the price. I do have on thing going for me though: I am experienced 3D modeler and model maker, so I can provide more than just a print service. They did tell me that a few companies they contacted were ambivalent about the prospects because it is not the usual trinket or tool type of output like I see offered on Shapeways or other services. I have not gone to other places locally though that are more high end. But, I shall endeavor to persevere.....

I actually have both of those. For the Printdry system, it is spaced to hold two or more spools, so, taller 'cabinets' so to speak. There is also a hole in the side you can use to allow it to also be used as a spooling device. A decent food dehydrator will cost around that price point, depending on the quality you want. Some way lower, some way higher too. But, I am sure it is just modified tech, with most modifications being to the size and design of the trays. The Polybox is great too. I cannot believe how much better the PVA is printing now. Still a bit of cleanup, but nothing bad. And it prints so solid now....no more webby type of supports. So, why the two systems> Well, sometimes a filament container can get ripped in shipping (Had it happen recently on two spools of PVA) because, not everybody uses a sealed box. Or, the storage I have used was not sealed as well as I thought. So, Printdry cooks out any moisture without taking up valuable print time by doing so on the printer and the polybox keeps it all dry while printing. And, maybe I had a bit more money at the moment than I had brains.....Of course, 'anything' more than brains is mostly the case anyway....

Wow....I just uploaded a file to 3D Hubs for a price check.....there is no way I could compete with that. It could not verify printability though. I know it prints, I am doing it. But for what I spec'd, 3D Hubs cost $5.00 USD. Not very realistic though. Wonder what type of hack work would be put out by people trying to overcome the incredible price drop. And, I know it would take me about 14 hours to print let alone clean and assemble. And without attention to things like spread, or such, it could render the model unusable. ugggghhhhh.......

Those are both very valuable viewpoints. Fortunately, this is a company that I just did some animation for and is a work in progress for both of us. They are very interested in what I showed them: A crappy prototype print that I took in when I went to have lunch with one of the guys that hooked me up with the job. They did like it, even though it was really crappy. Just gotta find that price point and as mentioned, valued time. But, thank you both for helping I will have to factor that all in. It is just so strange because I purchased the printer to learn on and have fun with....I never really considered making money with it. 40 years in the biz, in one way or another and I am now thrown for a loop.

I had to go play a bit. seems that gr5 is absolutely correct on pivot points being specific to programs and not across the board. Learn something new every day no matter how old you are So, make sure how your programs operates. For instance, programs like 3DS MAX & Maya will require pivot points being allocated to the same space. Not sure about blender or other programs though and not familiar with a CAD package like ACAD or others of that ilk; 2D or 3D. I did a test in 3D Coat and it is not an animation package so I found that it held position based on export to file format readable by Cura. This would be good to get a list compiled of programs that do not require pivot points and those that do for creating multicolored prints.

I am not sure if this is the right place to ask this. But I do need tips on pricing out prints. So far, I have been playing in the field of the mind and just making crazy things without worry of making a buck or even a penny off this thing. I got it primarily to learn about 3D printing, materials and how to design for FDM printing. But, as luck would have it, someone is asking for a price based on what they have seen me do. I know about the cost of filament. That is easy. But one print that has the same filament (or there abouts) can take either 8 hours or two days. Then there is the other aspects I am sure I have not even began to consider. I do not want to set a bad precedent, but do not want to go nuts either. This would not be an "Art Job." Like a lot of my prints are....goofy things that if someone wanted it, I could price based on different criteria. But this would be a basic, run of the mill job and I am a bit lost on pricing.....not my strongest suit I can say for sure. Any tips about this would be greatly appreciated.

Standard Model glue, ala Testors, works well with ABS as it is made to work with Polystyrene plastics as a chemical weld.

What slicer and version are you using? Also, what Printer?

Adding to this (Which is spot on), I suggest that when you have time, print some overhang tests such as these: Basic Search I printed this one and This one. All of them have different conditions such as some are thinner and will bounce more, etc. But I found that I can print up to about 65° without issues on the underside. After that, it starts to have underside issues. If the underside is not visible, then I found a decent top surface with an 80° overhang. Bridging would be a separate issue.

I do not know about that. Usually when you see that, it is a 'print in place' type of model. But when I looked at the file, I noticed there was no 'breaker gap'. That makes sense since you would want the ratchet action to be tight and not slip at all.

I took a look at the file. That was most helpful as you will need to print the parts separately and then assemble. What you printed was the assembled wrench. There are two files called assembly2.stl and assm.stl. These are so you can see how those parts look when assembled, but all the other parts need to be printed and then put together to look like the final printed assembly.

Ok...That does make sense. I had wondered about the holes in the lid, but figured someone had a reason. Cannot think of one and it did not intrude on my setup, but it does make sense. Thanks for sharing

There are three holes already.... at the top and bottom of the clear casing. I am not sure I understand what you mean about making 2 exit holes.