Smithy

Yes there are other settings as well, which are optimized for different profiles. So the default profiles in Cura have different settings, based on the layer height. I would suggest, that you stay at the beginning with the default profiles and only tune other settings like speed, wall count and so on to get a better feeling for it. Using not recommended layer heights will work, but you need much more understanding what you have to tune to get good results (like, temperature, flow, speed)

This never happened to me, that the spool jumped over the other position on the holder, even if there is only one spool on the holder. Are you using the additional arm, to guide the filament on position 1 to the feeder?

Hi and welcome! This can have several reasons, but it seems to me, that there is no failure or problem with the filament sensor, but there is a problem with your filament spool. When it comes to the end, the spool has more friction than a new spool has and the radius of the material is smaller than with a fresh spool. So, I think without the filament sensor you would probably get some under extrusions. The filament sensor doesn't just check if there is a filament in the feeder, it also checks if the filament is actually moving forward to guarantee the needed flow at the nozzle.

You can always change the layer height in custom settings tab to whatever you like. Just the recommended tab shows only "recommended" values.

Can you be more specific what you mean and what doesn't look promising?

When you save your sliced file (click on the save button), you can choose the directory where you want to save it,

No, I meant you slice your file, save the gcode to your disk and then you can modify it with an editor.

As far as I know, Cura cannot do that. You can only modify the generated gcode manually.

Your macOS is too old to run the latest Cura version. Minimum requirement is Mac OSX 10.11 or higher, 64 bit And 10.11 is also sometimes too old (some users reported problems). So update to a newer macOS (currently we have 10.14.2, so your 10.8.5 is really old) or use an older version of Cura.

Theoretically, you can repair it yourself, you just need two cables and then solder it together. It is maybe a little bit tricky, but it should work. Otherwise, if you prefer to get the spare part, contact @fbrc8-erin, she can tell you what is available and what you need.

Very nice! I have mine too on an Ikea "Alex" cabinet, but it is lower than yours. I think higher is better, so maybe I should try your cabinet. The Polybox mount is also a nice idea. I will get mine next week (hopefully) and then I have to find a place. So mounting on the back is not bad, better than putting it on the floor. Thanks for sharing the pictures!

Unfortunately, I cannot help with your question, but respect about how you designed it, separated into components, exactly how it should be - chapeau 🙂

You are correct, it gets more dense to the top and helps if you don't need much infill for strongness but need a good amount of infill for the top layer to get a nice surface or the get the top surface strong enough for your needs. Gradual infill is not suitable for every object, maybe you will need it very rarely but it is good to know that there is something 🙂

Shadowman, Just for my interest, what do you expect of the aluminum plate and for what needs have you planned to use it? Is it the hoped easier handling of materials which need some "help" to adhere to the plate and to avoid the additional use of adhesion sheets, spray or something else?

If I would be so disappointed about a company or a printer, I would sell it again and look for a company, brand, printer which fits all my needs I have regarding support, software, calibration and so on. It makes no sense, in my opinion, to work with a printer which is so annoying. Thousands of customers are happy with the S5 and achieve amazing results out of the box with it, but expectations can be different and maybe the printer is not for everyone. Just my 2 cents...

As far as I know it should be possible to set e steps also via gcode, but I don't know which one. But I am sure there is a thread here in the forum. Try to search for Bondtech, I think in these threads there is somewhere the gcode command.

If it is Cura, you should see the layer shift in the layer view, but you have to zoom in extremely. But I would install 3.51 again and do the print with the older version if you think it was just coming with 3.6. Especially if you have a 3 days print in the queue.

It can be the printer, if x/y axles are not perpendicular (square). Or the printer definition is different in Cura (steps?)

For me it is easy to explain, I bought the S5, not because of the aluminum plate, I bought it because of the build volume and the possibility to print abrasive materials. Honestly, I got noticed about the aluminum plate first, after unboxing 🙂 - that's maybe the reason why I don't see it that "hard" or unacceptable as others. I can also understand that some are disappointed about the end of the aluminum plate, especially if this was the only reason why they decided to buy the printer. But I still believe it was better to say stop now, than waiting for a product that cannot be mass produced as expected and which probably makes more problems than the glass plate. We all know that it was in the marketing channels that this will be a unique feature of the S5 and even because of that, I have full respect for the decision Ultimaker made. They truly believed that they can accomplish the production and now as they cannot, they are honest enough with the coming out and try to find individual solutions for customers which are not happy with a second glass plate. So, in my opinion, we should be fair and give them the time and the chance to compensate for this issue. Maybe I don't understand what you mean, but this combination is working great and also with different brands of materials. UM materials and print heads are detected by Cura and you can print without modifying any setting. When you try to use Simplfy3D for example with your S5, then you see what you really have with Cura and how perfectly Cura works with the Ultimaker printers. Last but not least I have a wish for 2019, that we all will act objective and fair. Everyone should get a chance to make things better next time, also Ultimaker, and with all disappointment, we should not forget, that they have built and build hopefully also in the future great workhorses for our businesses and hobby activities.

I guess the reason for it is, that you can easily brick your printer when modifying JSON files. Therefore Ultimaker will not give any advice on how to edit these files. Someone, like you, who is familiar with Linux can do it safely and easily, but it is nothing for everyone. Besides that, it is not really necessary to edit or calibrate the steps in the JSON file. As far as I know, Ultimaker also doesn't recommend to do it, because there are some side effects when changing print parameters and so on. I don't have an answer for you, but I assume it is hard to support a Linux application. There are several distributions, all with different library versions and so on. That's probably the reason why Ultimaker only offers the appimage, which provides also the needed libraries. But you say, the appimage is also not working for you, so maybe there is something else on your system.

In my opinion and experience, it is exactly that. For me, the S5 and also the UM3 are plug and play printers. Unboxed, connected, installed Cura and started the first print. Everything fine, no problems. Try a China printer or a Prusa, and you will see the difference. If someone needs more plug and play or is overwhelmed with the usage of an Ultimaker printer, then you have to buy something in a much higher price category. I like my UM printers and have no problems with it. Also not with the Cura software, which runs quite well on my Apple machines. They produce nice quality prints and the community here is superb regarding support and help, which no commercial support can offer in my opinion. All known issues are not really issues for me if the led is dimmed or off is not important for me. If there will come an aluminum plate or not, is not important for me - I can print every material on glass with or without the help of other adhesion tools. If Cura is not working on my machine, it is not the fault of the printer. Everyone who still thinks he cannot print without an aluminum plate should contact Ultimaker. @SandervG offered more than once to contact him directly to discuss a possible solution. So instead of complaining here again and again (which gets boring with the time), should do that.

It is a common practice, that such things are unsupported which is good in my opinion. If this would be a supported and documented feature, everyone who is able to start an SSH client, will connect to the shell and start modifying things, which could easily result in a bricked printer. If that happens, the user cries out loud that something is not working, the printer is bricked and he needs help, support, and whatever to get his printer up and running again. Therefore, shell access is unsupported and to use it is on your own risk. Why do you think or have the feeling that the firmware is unsupported? I get for my S5 new firmware releases from Ultimaker and they also care about newly found bugs. Cura is open source, everyone can compile and package the software. If you have the feeling that one or the other package is better than the official one, go for it and be happy, but it makes no sense to complain about non-working packages which are not maintained by Ultimaker officially. And in my opinion, if the superior PPA is not even starting anymore, then it is not so superior. If the appimage is also not working for you, then the problem is maybe not the software itself, but some other issues on your system, libraries or something like that. Have you sent a direct message to @SandervG to find a solution that works for you? If not, you should do that if you expect a solution for your unhappiness.

Best is to design it next time to avoid the thin walls, then everything should be fine. But I got a better result with the thin wall option. Before I got 50 layers and enabled I got 59 layers in total.

I guess it was that sharp due to the way you designed the ring, but honestly, if the printer would print it so sharp you would cut your finger 🙂

Another possibility is to decrease the line width to something smaller, but I guess you designed the ring to be very "sharp" at the bottom and the top.