Smithy

You have to compile your own firmware based on the configuration file and then you can install it with the Cura update function. How to compile the firmware and what you need to do, can be found here https://github.com/Ultimaker/UM2.1-Firmware I also recommend that you buy some TFM couplers, because when you print at 320°C I guess you have to replace the coupler every few layers 🙂

I am sorry that it was not useful, but unfortunately it can happen with an auto repair function. Best is to use a good CAD software and not Sketchup (I assume you use it 🙂 ) then you don't need to repair it.

Dann wünsche ich viel Erfolg und bitte um Fotos wenn das Fahrzeug fertig ist 🙂

Hallo und Willkommen! Ich bekomme zwar auch die Meldung, dass etwas nicht stimmt, aber das Model schaut gut aus und lässt sich auch Slicen. Ich wüsste nicht, was nicht passen sollte und ich denke, dass du es einfach drucken kannst. Ich glaube, die Überprüfung von dem Modell funktioniert nicht immer 100%, ich habe das öfters und ignoriere es einfach. Wenn du in diese X-Ray Vorschau gehst und dort ist etwas Rot, dann wird's eng, dann passt wirklich was nicht. Aber das Model ist nicht einfach zu drucken, weil die Grundplatte unten nicht ganz eben ist. D.h. Support brauchst du sowieso wegen den Laschen, aber er druckt dir dann auch für 2-3 Schichten unten vorne einen Support. Geht, wird aber optisch nicht so schön werden. Nur als Hinweis.

I am glad I could help! Happy printing 🙂

I also see it sometimes and the only solution to get rid of it is to adjust the line width. The devs are aware of it and are working on a solution. As far as I know it is super complex so there is currently no plan when it will come. The issue is not new also previous versions had the problem with these thin walls and the crazy toolpath.

😜

And here your repaired STL from the netfabb service I mentioned above. Looks better and should work I think. 3D_Cave_Novo_fixed.stl

But it seems the new file is also not correct. Do you use Sketchup to design the model? If so, please use something else, this software is known to generate files which are not printable.

You can also use this free service to check and to repair STL files. https://service.netfabb.com/login.php

Es ist auch die schnellste Methode 🙂

You have to try it, basically yes, but as closer you get to the bottom surface or with a more denser roof it is harder to remove the support. So if you really need a nice surface there, use PVA for support.

No detailed instructions, but it happens from time to time. You can only try to heat the core and use a heat gun (carefully) to soften the material. Your print head doesn't look to bad, so I think you should be able to remove the material. Always check the silicon pad at the bottom of the print head and replace it if you see some burnt spots. This pad is important that the filament cannot get inside the head.

Das Druckbett ordentlich Leveln macht schon Sinn, aber man muss keine Wissenschaft daraus machen. Ob man nun eine Fühlerlehre nimmt oder die beigelegte Karte oder simpel ein Blatt Papier bleibt jedem selbst überlassen. Alles funktioniert und wirklich genau muss es nicht sein. Man macht das ja nicht um die Abmessung bzw. die Genauigkeit in Z Richtung zu justieren sondern um eine gute Betthaftung zu erreichen. Das liegt dann immer so um die 0.1mm die der Drucker dann mit einrechnet. Ob es nun 0.12 oder nur 0.09 sind, spielt keine Rolle. Ein 3D Druck ist ist nicht so genau, dass es relevant wäre. Ich level auch oft nach Gehör. wenn ich von unten auf den Drucktisch klopfe klackt es gegen die Düse. Mit der Zeit hört man ob richtig gelevelt wurde oder nicht. Also soviel zur peniblen Genauigkeit 🙂 Sinnvoll kann es auch sein, wenn die erste Schicht gedruckt wird oder der Skirt, noch schnell ein bisschen nachzujustieren wenn man denkt es es zu wenig oder zu viel.

And if you can connect to the webpage, there is a event log link. Maybe you can see something helpful there after you send a job to the printer.

And in a browser, when you enter the IP address of the printer, so you get a connection and the printer webpage?

The surface quality of parts that needs support is always not really nice because between support and the bottom of the model surface you need some space to be able to remove the support. This results in a not so nice quality. But you can use PVA which needs no space or mix both variants, that you use cheap PLA for the support structure and print just the support roof with PVA.

I guess there are a lot of users which don't want to have the lights on because it shines through the windows. I can remember a user who has his printer in the garage for example and want to avoid that the neighbours or others see that there is something in there. So in my opinion it would be really great to have a button in the DF to switch the lights on and off.

I agree that electronics don't really need a sleep, but we had a similar issue in the past and the sleep phase has solved the problem. Maybe no need for overnight, but I don't know how long it takes until the capacitors are empty. But anyway, great that you were able to solve the issue and that you are up to date now. Happy printing...

https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011545559-Update-the-Ultimaker-S5-firmware And check if your network connection (ethernet) is really working, because normally there is no need to update via USB. But if a network connection is not possible, then download the FW on the USB stick and the process should be same. Firmware update is done only from the printer, no Cura involved here. So on the printer in the settings menu - maintenance - update firmware

I guess the problem here is that the Ender profile has changed and now everything behind the profile has now different settings. With UM printers and profiles a simple export from Cura is enough. But the profiles for 3rd party printer are contributed by the community so they are not well tested for backwards compatibility.

The only thing you do in the initial setup routine is to level the bed. But for sure no XY calibration. But can you explain what you mean with this calibration? Maybe you can remember some parts.

The machine definitions and quality profiles are normal json files, so also plain text. But check the Github page here https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura There you should find all configuration files to compare and you can also switch back to the 4.4 or 4.5 branch whatever you need.

Not sure if it is the same with the windows version of Cura, I use a Mac, but when you go to your Cura configuration folder (Cura Help menu - show configuration) then the current configuration folders should open. When you now go one level back there should be still the folder for the older version. There you should find all the config files you need and they are plain text files, so should be easily to compare them.

Do you really have an UM2+ Extended? Because XY calibration is needed for the dual printers like UM3, S3 or S5, but not for single extruder ones. So there is no XY calibration for an UM2+