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Everything posted by Jasonjason

  1. The answer to prove it’s the stepper calibration is simple. Increase the size of the square- say 250by 250mm. If the error increases proportionally, it’s a stepper calibration issue. if not start looking elsewhere, like where the start point for each later is... this can be a big effect, as the first bit feeds out more, and you ended up with wider extrusion.
  2. Also this is likely the cause of your average print quality
  3. That rod is stuffed, and should be replaced. replace the rod and the bearing - given the cost of the printer, you can justify maintaining it properly. if is is new, I would be asking your reseller to supply the parts under warranty. you can’t polish those scratches out, as it will change the dimension of the rod. Little linear bearings do not like rods that are not perfectly smooth
  4. Big bed= high current, Hence it burning out. It probably pulls 10 amps when running. Might not have been tight enough, or worked loose from thermal cycling. It’s common to periodically shut down and relighten all connectors on industrial machinery plants you can use any connector that works at the local electrical store, or just solder on directly. Just make sure you have good contact, a large well soldered joint will be perfect
  5. What’s all over your shafts, they look a furry mess!
  6. Maybe an ultimaker developer can chime in here.... there is very little onfo on how this sensor works, but my understanding is it essentially calibrates itself at the start of the print, then if the feed rate decreases, it goes activates an error. So if the sensor is not moving at the beginning, it will not pick up an error later on. going into developer mode, you can monitor this sensor on the web interface, and this seems to be how it works. i had the same problem for a while. solution was a 100mm length of Biden tube out the bottom, held in place to the
  7. Share your print settings... Either it’s mechanical, like a bad bearing, lack of oil on the rods, Or its print settings set too fast, jerk settings too high.
  8. Yes- I am the same- it’s a shame they added that feature to the firmware- would be nice to turn it off
  9. Dont think it will automatically change over, regardless of nfc or not. have not heard of any other filaments having nfc tags. It’s not a big deal when you get used to it
  10. Manually set the temperature hotter, and try another hot and cold pull. you can manually set the temp on the touch screen somewhere. someone may have put a hotter melt temp material in it. What other materials have you been working with? you can’t break it more. also try poking up the nozzle with a .3 mm drill or pin. have had to do this on wood filament before. aliexpress sell needles just for this job the right size.
  11. Keep sharing how you get on with this... I too miss s3d in many ways. If it was as seamless as the connection with Cura, I think I would change back.
  12. Are you sure you are loosing steps? hard to tell for the photos, but looks far more like intermittent under extrusion. Do what was suggested above, and clean your feeder out. check you get consistent smooth extrusion when loading filament, should come out smooth, straight and no curling. grease the z axis shaft make a small tall tower and try printing that.
  13. The right two in the attached image, marked pt100
  14. Thanks for responding. it would probable be the same currently when going from bare glass to adhesion sheets? One would need to re calibrate with the paper card again? being able to store the different bed type would save having to recalibrate each time. So it would be support ultimaker beds, not just 3rd part bed surfaces
  15. Most likely you have damaged the thermosister. measure wth resistance between the right two wires where they plug in. should be around 100k ohm. if that works, look at the connection pads again
  16. Google it. Common issue if settings are wrong need .skirt off .brim off .avoid model during moves off
  17. I asked, as I have just dealt with the same issue. Was printing great, and deteriorated over a week. try drying it in the a kitchen over overnight. easy thing to rule out.
  18. I dont understand either. But it’s done it multiple times now i will force some end of rolls tonight and confirm this is consistent
  19. I have a issue with the filamant sensors. they seem to work if the filamant jams, or is held on the end of the spool, but if the filamant is not held on the spool and flows through, it does not detect it- will happily keep printing air and stuffing the print. theres very little detail in how these detect and work, which makes it hard to work through fault finding. any ideas on how to fix this?
  20. nice solution to a bad design to begin with It always annoys me that they insist on putting the spools on the back. might look pretty, but it’s a pain to access. why they didn’t put the spools in the side, and feeders on the sides near the front is beyond me.
  21. One of these https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33009170756.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dRVsQk5 Best thing I have done. wipe down with alcohol occasionally and that’s it. we do lots of tooling parts- big flat faces and solid blocks that won’t pop off easily. usually don’t have to remove it from the bed, but when something sticks really well, it’s no big deal to take it off and twist it off. these should have been supplied by ultimaker given the price of the printer. if the $500 dollar Chinese printers are ahead of you in terms to techn
  22. I was thinking the sensor inside the cover of the print bay, or tucked up behind the hot block. This will not be effected by part cooling fan speed at all. my thinking is if the plastic if the print core hits 70 something is going wrong- most likely molten plastic touching it. it won’t stop it before it happens, but al least stops it going on too far. picking the right location for the sensors is the hard part- has to be in the path of the flooding plastic as for camera- I can’t that see that being a easy solution at all- not compared to two wires of a thermal swit
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