GregValiant

Cura won't slice when it runs out of part. 99 layers at .20 + 1 layer at .28 = 20.08. There is no part there to slice and so your block is short by 1 layer from the 20.08 theoretical height number. (what a coincidence ~ 20.08 - .20 = 19.88). You can adjust the Initial Layer Height (in this case a .2 initial layer works perfect), or use a layer height that is an exact divisor of the "part height - initial layer height". So if you want to keep your .28 Initial Layer Height then 20-0.28 = 19.72 and that will be the other 99 layers at .199 layer height. 99*.199 = 19.7 + .28 = 19.98. You would want the Initial Layer Height to be .30. If there is an intermediate surface that is at say 15.25 from the bottom, you can see that it won't come out exact on a model that uses the numbers above.

There are responses in your other thread about printing the piano. It would be WAY easier to print it in parts and then glue them together. The lid is a good example as there would be so much support you would likely destroy it trying to get the support material out.

That's the basic vanilla Start Gcode. Nothing problematic there. The Acceleration recommended by the Selpic people is really low. Insert the following lines right after the M107 line in you start gcode: M201 X11 Y11 M203 X50 Y50 The M201 sets the max Accel and the M203 sets the max speed. Those figures will be the limits that the printer imposes on itself when it calculates the moves. If you get a decent print then you can start moving the Accel up in increments of about 10. At a low Accel value like that (Ultimakers may be able to take 10000) it will have a huge effect on the speed so moving the speed up won't really affect anything.

I didn't want to be repetitious and a couple of weeks ago I used an Elton John reference. Mr. Peabody's glasses would be easier to print than Mr. John's though. Horned rims don't generally require mountings for rhinestones.

When designing things for FDM printing, the physical limits of the process have to be in the front of your mind. Fortunately Super-Glue works very well on PLA and PETG. If the legs were separate, you could put 2.2mm holes in the tops (3mm deep) and then matching holes in the bottom of the piano body. Cut pieces of filament to suit and use them as locating pins when you glue the legs on. If the foot pedal assembly had a plate on top with two locating holes, it would glue right on and be clocked correctly. Round plates on top of the legs might be helpful both for printing, and to keep them at 90° to the body while the glue sets. The lid attachment would need some thought but the lid printed flat on the bed would be SO much easier to print. The main problem would become either the candelabra (Liberace) or the seatbelt (Victor Borgia).

Service.netfabb.com is an Autodesk site for repairing STL's. It's free (but you need to create an account) and it's pretty good. After repairing your model there it looks fine. One thing about Netfabb though - it never tells you what was wrong. Here is the message IdeaMaker popped up. 813439793_MightyMag2_fixed.stl

The printer definitions are written by the printer manufacturers (or a representative hired by them). They submit the definitions to Ultimaker for inclusion in Cura. You would need to go back and check with the manufacturer. They are the ones responsible as the definitions should include any limits and variations that their machines might require. Those will include the printer definition file, extruder definition files, and nozzle files, that a particular printer will accept. With one hot end capable of 420° you will need your own definition files. Looking at the Craftbot site it looks like part of the software bundle is Cura. Their branch should have definition files for the printer.

Cura's time estimate is based on things it knows. You've told it the print and travel speeds and maybe you've entered the Acceleration. Then the gcode gets to the printer. The printer might have limits on Speed and Accel that Cura can't be aware of and so the estimate can be far from accurate. (PLEASE NOTE: The following only works on printers that accept the M117 command. That excludes some Creality printers with 4.x.x boards.) Since it is a post processor it has no effect on the time you see near the slice button in Cura. One of the Cura contributors wrote the attached post-processing plugin. It has a couple of options and one is a "Fudge Factor" for print time. (I prefer it to the Display Progress plugin which has no fudge factor.) By comparing the actual print time to what Cura is saying it will be, that Fudge Factor can be adjusted to: Cura Print Time (in seconds) / Actual Print Time (in seconds) = Fudge Factor. Mine came out to 1.1. ;TIME:3900 ;At the beginning of the file. ;TIME_ELAPSED:85.912422 ;The time to print "LAYER:0" ;LAYER:1 M117 2/100 | ETA 57M M118 2/100 | ETA 57M The M117 line sends the info to the printer LCD (I added the M118 line to bounce the info back to my print console). The layer number coincides with Cura rather than with the gcode file. In the case above the ETA was calculated with my 1.1 fudge factor. The LCD would show "2/100 | ETA 57M". Extract ShowProgress.py from the attached Zip folder. Copy the ShowProgress.Py file into your Cura program folder "...\plugins\PostProcessingPlugin\scripts". The next time you start Cura it will be available to add under "Extensions | Post Processing | Modify Gcode | add script". Alter the Fudge Factor as required and the time displayed on the LCD will be somewhere closer to reality. ShowProgress.zip

In 1959 we have Soupy Sales explaining my proposed Tool-Tip for "Make overhangs printable". Soupy always KNEW there would be Unexpected Consequences when he pulled the cork. Usually it was a face full of whipped cream. Other times it might be a squirt gun full of water or chocolate syrup. Users of "Make Overhangs Printable" don't appear to understand that enabling it can also cause Unexpected Consequences. Fortunately for us, Cura rarely causes a 3D printer to squirt Whipped Cream into a users face but a face full of whipped cream is hard to miss. Instead, the "Make overhangs printable" approach is to add chamfers to models in unexpected places. Still humorous, but much more subtle and hard to notice.

I tell ya, everything runs in streaks and there have been some bad models show up here recently. Are we sure that model is OK? I ask because when odd things like that happen - Cura must have seen something or it wouldn't have put the supports there. Does anything show up there in the X-ray view?

And this is why people choose to get dual extruder printers. Using PETG for support on a PLA model works because they don't stick together. Using the same material for support as the model is always a head scratcher when it comes to supporting fine features like your headers over the doors and windscreen. It's very easy to hurt the model when removing the supports. Exacto knives, micro-files, and a set of picks or some used dental tools are necessary to clean up prints.

I don't use raft very much. If I notice a model that may lift (long thin features on the build plate) I typically use "mouse ears" to help adhesion (usually with PETG). That being said, a raft is just a bunch of heavy extrusions with a model starting on top. The distance between the top of the raft and the initial layer of the model has a large effect on both Surface Quality of the model bottom, and the release of the raft from the model without tearing up the model. "Raft Air Gap" and "Initial Layer Z Overlap" have the biggest effect on those. I sliced a model and used a raft with the default raft settings. Layer Height = 0.2, Raft Air Gap = 0.3, Initial Layer Z Overlap = 0.15. The first layer of a raft is a negative number and in this example is "Layer:-6". The bottom of the model is always Layer:0 in the Gcode. You'll notice this does not match up with layer numbering in the Cura preview which always starts at "1". Z0.24 (.24) ;Layer:-6 Z0.54 (.30) ;Layer:-5 Z0.74 (.30) ;Layer:-4 Z0.94 (.20) ;Layer:-3 Top layer of the raft Z1.44 (.50) ;Layer:0 - The first layer of the model @ [Air Gap + Layer Height] above the raft Z1.49 (0.05) ;Layer:1 @ [Layer Height - Initial Layer Z Overlap] above Layer:0. Z1.69 (0.20) ;Layer:2 starts using the actual Layer Height

@Torgeir do you know Ultimaker 2's?

It's "Brim Distance" and it's with the other brim settings in "Build Plate Adhesion". You will need to play with it a bit. I set it at 0.1 and it works OK. Next to the settings search box is a drop down for setting visibility. Set it to "All". Brim Distance is supposed to unhide itself when you choose "Brim" so maybe there is something going on there.

This is a model that really should be 3 or 4 separate pieces that would be glued together. As a single print, it's tough. The STL file is "not watertight" and the errors in the file can effect the way Cura sees it and slices it. When first imported the bottom of the model is not flat on the build surface. Use the rotation tool to "lay flat". When a feature starts over support, and is very fine, then you need to keep playing with the settings until you get the minimum XY right, the XY overrides Z, or Z overrides XY, Minimum Interface Area, (etc.) correct for what you are trying to do. This is an image of the first layer that appears for that hanging feature of the model. You can see that the settings are correct to provide support and an interface to hold the start of the print...barely. The attached 3mf file contains a repaired model. Pay close attention to the ALL the settings as they are what I like and may not be what you like. Bottom4-export_fixed.3mf

It would be terrific if Creality actually mentioned such things instead of making people fumble around in the dark trying to figure it out.

Some Creality printers don't like long file names. I know the 8 bit board in my Ender has a 16 character limit for the file prefix as did early CR10's. So if you have the machine name added to the file name prefix the best you can do might be "CCR10SPROabcdefg.GCODE". If your gcode file name is "CCR10SPRO_base_98_threads.gcode" has a 25 character prefix and the printer simply may not be able to display the name. In the Cura preferences General | Open and Saving file | you can uncheck "Add machine prefix to job name".

Have you calibrated the E-steps? (I don't actually know if it's even possible on that printer.) When Cura calculates the E-value for a particular extrusion it's "E = LineWidth x LayerHeight x ExtrusionLength / (PI x FilamentRadius^2) and that gets defined as 100% Flow. So when your printer sees an E value it must move from the previous E-location to the new E-location and provide the correct number of E-Steps so the extruder pushes the correct millimeters of filament. It is the E-Steps/mm that insures the correct volume of filament was supplied by the extruder. The variables then are the Filament Diameter, the E-Steps/mm, and the Flow % (which is a fudge factor).

That sums it up. I'm a CAD and Gcode guy so when I bought my printer I had some knowledge of what I was getting into. I settled on Cura as my slicer and one of the reasons was the support here. People made sense, you occasionally get help from a Cura Team member or serious contributor, and (except for certain miscreants that hang around here) it's a mature crowd that is willing to help. Good luck with your projects. - Greg

M109 is wait for the hot end to reach the temp. M104 simply sets the hot end temperature. The same is true for M140 and M190.

In this view you can see that there is a large error in the model on the left (your STL file). The model on the right was repaired at Service.Netfabb.com. In the left model you can see the threaded nut, but in the right model the nut has been "absorbed" into the head and so it has disappeared as a feature. I think the thing to do here is go back to Blender (which I don't know) and merge the head and the base, fill the tapped hole in the base, and then subtract a threaded stud from the model. Right now - when sliced you won't get threads in the head portion because of how the features merge. By subtracting a threaded rod from the head, you will get full-depth threads with sufficient walls around them. In this image you can see that the threaded hole stops at the top of the base and does not extend into the head on either model (even though you can see the nut feature in the unrepaired model on the left). The hole in the nut has been filled in by the head. Sometimes, trying to merge models will result in unexpected consequences so you really need to use all available tools prior to printing in order to avoid an "Oh S#$%." moment 2 hours into a print. @kmanstudios might have a different take on putting this together as this is more in line with what he does. Just pay no attention if he makes a comment like "that head is screwed" or something equally awful.

I would warm the plate up to 75° or so and gently scrape it off with a putty knife. It should be fairly round since without the glass there would be no squish to the build plate. You do need to try to get the surface flat. You wouldn't want a high spot in the middle that could cause the glass to rock back and forth.

When an STL model is exported from most CAD software it is usually a representation of a 3D solid model. That means it is solid through-and-through. A slicer then determines outer wall, inner wall, and infill. When certain STL models are created from scans then they are sometimes just a skin. The thickness of the skin is what a slicer has to work with. If you look at the slice of the head in the second image (see below), you can see the (red) outer wall through gaps in the (green) inner wall. That means the "skin" of the model is very thin and in fact in some areas it looks like there is no outer wall at all or it will not print because it is thinner than your line width. Then, looking at the neck area you can see the gaps between the extrusions of the outer wall. That will not print as it is unsupported and printing over air. The model with the nut appears to have the same sort of problem, but it may just be the way you sliced it. If the parts are solid, then you will need to allow some infill so it supports the areas that approach the horizontal. In your last image you can see what @ zpm3atlantis referred to. Those extra surfaces that criss-cross the interior of the head are created because that is how Cura is translating what it sees in the model. Some faces may be inside-out. If you will post the STL files then someone will look them over.

Sorry about the response in English. Delta BFB0524HH 24volt centrifugal ball bearing blower. Here are a couple more at Mouser which is a US distributor but I would assume they are available elsewhere (Digikey and others).

+1 on that. A bit of imperfection (a TINY bit) on an area that will only see the light-of-day for about 5 minutes isn't an issue.