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Post your latest print!


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Took me forever to do this. And it is still rougher than I would have liked.   3D concept rendering:   Finished piece:    

Bath interferometers.  I have made about 20 of these for people who use them to test their telescope mirrors.  They are amazingly accurate and can do better than a $40,000 Zygo PSI optical tester.  Th

I just finished this. It was a multi-part print for ease of painting. Some of it I am not sure what happened...but hey, it is purty....And, I am unanimous in that ? Test Render Parts

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Posted · Post your latest print!

It's smells nice when you print with it :)

You can darken bits with a flame like my cannon and it's more soft then PLA is what I have found.

It's a nice use of the filament @skinny-kid

did you find corkfill easy to print with?

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Nice! How did you like Corkfill?

    Does it have any other additional advantages of why you would use Corkfill?

    Or solely the look of it?

     

    The Corkfill is great to use. I haven't found any other advantages other than the look of the finished product. I wanted to see how it looked as opposed to PLA etc. I like playing with the exotic filaments and am hoping to try a few post finishing techniques to see how it turns out.

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    It's smells nice when you print with it :)

    You can darken bits with a flame like my cannon and it's more soft then PLA is what I have found.

    It's a nice use of the filament @skinny-kid

    did you find corkfill easy to print with?

     

    Yes once I had better settings to use.....,4 mm nozzle is no good. lol

    It does smell nice when you use it! I haven't played with sanding or staining or a flame on this stuff.......yet :)

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    Posted (edited) · Post your latest print!

    [print=3347][/print]

    My friend's old boat needed some replacement logos.  One was broken, the other badly worn.  "Sure, I can do that!" I said.   Then I measured and realized it was too long for my UM2's bed.  Oops.  So I needed a way to make this work.  In OnShape I made a 2-part model that could be fused into one.    

    The first part was printed, then removed from the bed:

    20160321_210930_resized.thumb.jpg.c4116e2595e51a7575e938bb04c6a60f.jpg

    Now Part 2 began printing.  After 1 mm PauseatZ kicked in to let me add Part 1

    curasearay.thumb.jpg.edd48a56eaec09ad3eb692b3fec8645e.jpg

    I used a small clamp to hold Part 1 pressed against Part 2 while the nozzle fused them together

    20160321_220121_resized.thumb.jpg.20f26277412655d8365fb293b07c78c7.jpg

    20160321_231156_resized.thumb.jpg.e3a0cdc8cf000fee131bc092ff1671ec.jpg

    A little flame polish added slightly more gloss after the print completed

    20160321_234735_resized.thumb.jpg.388ae69ef427c14dbed14e7501af0efc.jpg

    20160321_210930_resized.thumb.jpg.c4116e2595e51a7575e938bb04c6a60f.jpg

    curasearay.thumb.jpg.edd48a56eaec09ad3eb692b3fec8645e.jpg

    20160321_220121_resized.thumb.jpg.20f26277412655d8365fb293b07c78c7.jpg

    20160321_231156_resized.thumb.jpg.e3a0cdc8cf000fee131bc092ff1671ec.jpg

    20160321_234735_resized.thumb.jpg.388ae69ef427c14dbed14e7501af0efc.jpg

    Edited by Guest
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    Posted (edited) · Post your latest print!

    I did not even notice it, you are going commando! ;)

    Have you also considered to print the two parts separate and glue them together?

    Or use a heating tool to fuse them together later manually?

    I was wondering why you preferred this method.

    And did you remove the fans because it was printed in PET?

    (You could have also just used tune and turn them off ;))

    Edited by Guest
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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Interesting technique though 8)

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    @Cloakfiend The block has remnants of leaked PETG from the time before I replaced the spring. Most of the leaked material has already been removed actually :p

    @SandervG I took off the fans to install the spring replacement spacer last week, and I just left them off with intentions of disassembling the block and cleaning it one of these days.

    Glue doesn't work all that well on PET for me, unless using paint stripper or PVC glue to dissolve/bond, and that stuff is pretty nasty. So I figured why not just print both pieces into one. How would you use a heating tool to fuse them together without damaging the parts? Maybe it's a technique I need to learn.

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    >Now Part 2 began printing. After 1 mm PauseatZ kicked in to let me add Part 1

    Genius!!!

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Alright, mom needed help so I stepped in. A shelf pin disappeared and rendered a kitchen cabinet partially useless. I thought, pffft. this little sucker, _of course_ I can print it!

    og_pin.thumb.jpg.67898a010e0194281c53ceb8d9bfad67.jpg

    Measured it and created a 3D model. I thought it would be easy but I had a hard time with the supporting area (stupid boleans are stupid sometimes). And then I went on and added a filet here, a little touch there to make it nice™

    pin.thumb.png.b3103baad84a411e0c96661463f6a340.png

    But reality is a bitch sometimes :D

    reality.thumb.jpg.8c917f3a810adb59798b752f27b25b42.jpg

    Ok in the end played a bit with orientation and support and got this. Not super pretty but it will do.

    okish.thumb.jpg.c32805a3c57643de26fccef04adbd992.jpg

    og_pin.thumb.jpg.67898a010e0194281c53ceb8d9bfad67.jpg

    pin.thumb.png.b3103baad84a411e0c96661463f6a340.png

    reality.thumb.jpg.8c917f3a810adb59798b752f27b25b42.jpg

    okish.thumb.jpg.c32805a3c57643de26fccef04adbd992.jpg

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    I printed the exact same thing for the cabinet in my bathroom :D

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Hopefully you've had a little less reality than I did :)

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    Posted (edited) · Post your latest print!
    @Nicolinux: Do you want some advice or shall we rather keep silent... ? ;) Edited by Guest
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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    Ok in the end played a bit with orientation and support and got this. Not super pretty but it will do.

    okish.thumb.jpg.c32805a3c57643de26fccef04adbd992.jpg

    I would have made the round smooth part flat (since that part doesn't do anything?) and made that the bottom. The pegs will then print at 45 degrees upwards, and you would have a solid contact on the bottom and require no supports. It will be pretty!

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    Posted · Post your latest print!
    @valcrow: That's exactly what I would have suggested if @Nicolinux would have ask for... :p
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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    @valcrow: That's exactly what I would have suggested if @Nicolinux would have ask for... :p

    Lol, I felt kinda bad since I posted and THEN saw your response. I felt like I'm one of those pushy North American folk pushing advice on people unsolicited.

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    @valcrow, maybe it is because I am still just on my second cup of coffee but I'm having difficulties visualizing what you mean.

    Not sure what I did when I was making this part, but it came out pretty nice. I only had to clean 1 peg with a knife and that was 2 sec of work.

    I believe I did print like 2 or 3 to allow the layers to cool and print fairly slow.

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    I would probably slice that thing into two halves. They should print without a problem then, and a Superglue would do the rest.

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    I would have made the round smooth part flat (since that part doesn't do anything?) and made that the bottom.  The pegs will then print at 45 degrees upwards, and you would have a solid contact on the bottom and require no supports. It will be pretty!

     

    I think I understand what you mean. Something like this?

    orientation.thumb.png.4ae0c9deac5d7bb6e1da85b918fbf936.png

    orientation.thumb.png.4ae0c9deac5d7bb6e1da85b918fbf936.png

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    I think I understand what you mean. Something like this?

    orientation.thumb.png.4ae0c9deac5d7bb6e1da85b918fbf936.png

     

    @sandervg

    Yup! that's exactly it!

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    I would have made the round smooth part flat (since that part doesn't do anything?) and made that the bottom.  The pegs will then print at 45 degrees upwards, and you would have a solid contact on the bottom and require no supports. It will be pretty!

     

    That is what confused me too. I understand the desire to match the visuals of the original part, but that went overboard in a royal fashion with the choice of color. The use of plastic also means that you will have to adjust. Sometimes you can do things that the original part could not, other times you will need to make parts a bit more beefy due to the original being made out of a stronger material.

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    Posted · Post your latest print!

    It has been some time ago that I posted some results but I had a lot of programming work to do to get my H0 turntable working in my software for the model train. None the less here is the result.

     

    I don't have a great camera and I am not a camera man...

    All parts of this turn table are 3D printed and are available on youmagine:

    https://www.youmagine.com/designs/h0-train-turntable

    All though for the latest version I have it on github.

    Integration in my software worked out. It is now quite simple to operate. Just click on the side of the bridge and drag it where you want it and it goes. When a train rides on the bridge, automatically the auto middle detection is enabled to stop the train when it is on the middle. For that big steam engine I have to drive slowly otherwise it will drive too far due to the rotating mass on the motor. Also when starting to turn it automatically changes the direction of the train so you drive off in the right direction.

    Unfortunately the camera was not able to get the screen shots sharp.

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