Jump to content
IRobertI

Post your latest print!

Recommended Posts

Posted · Post your latest print!

Impressive quality!. i got the same piece printed on a Formlabs Form 2 printer. It is printed by Formlabs themselves and given away as a demo part. And i can tell you it does not look better than this. I can share a picture if you want to compare.

 

Looks very nice @Xeno!! Is it still WIP? Can't wait to see it when it is finished.

From a completely different angle, and even though I did not print it myself but 'team Ultimaker' did, I really want to share this print if it has gone unnoticed.

One of the most impressive print qualities I have seen in a while. Give it a try yourself, the settings are shared :)

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Post your latest print!

Impressive quality!. i got the same piece printed on a Formlabs Form 2 printer. It is printed by Formlabs themselves and given away as a demo part. And i can tell you it does not look better than this. I can share a picture if you want to compare.

 

Looks very nice @Xeno!! Is it still WIP? Can't wait to see it when it is finished.

From a completely different angle, and even though I did not print it myself but 'team Ultimaker' did, I really want to share this print if it has gone unnoticed.

One of the most impressive print qualities I have seen in a while. Give it a try yourself, the settings are shared :)

 

 

Please do :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Post your latest print!

Even though that print is real sweet, i have to say in my experience that the silver filament is deceptive in the way it looks. As in it look perfect, but it is not. Im pretty sure that if you spraypainted that piece it would not look so great. For me its all about surface quality and smoothness, and at 120 micron steps, it simply cant be smooth. Larger steps also hide deviation as they are far more visible with smaller layers due to the nature of the printer vibrating/shaking and such things.

sorry to be the whinger ;) after all it doesn't stop it from being a great print.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited) · Post your latest print!

That formlabs print looks far higher resolution, and very smooth. To say it looks no better than the um go print, is simply incorrect to the trained eye. you just need to look at the writing.

That's the problem with this 3D printing game. You simply cannot judge something from a photo. unless its a macro photo.

You cant compare quality of resin printers and FDM. Its truly pointless, resin will win at fine intricate details hands down every time. FDM printers will win at cost hands down every time.

there is no comparison.

Edited by Guest

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Post your latest print!

That formlabs print looks far higher resolution, and very smooth. To say it looks no better than the um go print, is simply incorrect to the trained eye. you just need to look at the writing.

That's the problem with this 3D printing game. You simply cannot judge something from a photo. unless its a macro photo.

You cant compare quality of resin printers and FDM. Its truly pointless, resin will win at fine intricate details hands down every time. FDM printers will win at cost hands down every time.

there is no comparison.

 

How do resin printers do on time for a given level of detail and size? It is clear the resin printers are capable of extremely fine detail, however I have found that the majority of prints simply don't have that level of detail. I guess if I had a resin printer I'd design more detail into my prints. As it stands now, my FDM printer (new UM2+ woot!) gives me all the resolution I need using inexpensive filament and hours of time per piece. How do resin printers do on time?

Les

Les learn about resin printers!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited) · Post your latest print!

ive never used one, but have seen prints from them. considering the layer size makes less time different that on an FDM they work faster due to a laser doing the 'print' but unless you are doing rings and tiny detailed stuff with antennas and stuff  large prints are FDM territory at the moment.

FDM is so cost effective at the moment i really don't care for the quality difference after all i can smooth my print to an acceptable level (not perfect but good enough). Most people couldn't care less. When i become real good at 3D sculpting then that may be another story, but i don't see that happening for at least a year or so, and i tend to print for fun, so it would be a big waste of money for me to go down the resin path right now.

resin = $ serious business not endless testing.

FDM = early prototyping, fast prototyping and large scale builds due to bed sizes. fun giveaways and cost effective babysitting. kids can watch fdm 3d printers print for hours without getting bored as they move around so much!

EDIT:

As both printers work completely differently, they need to be treated differently, but basically FDMs running costs are FAR cheaper and FAR better value for money at the moment. resin is just too expensive and has too many additional costs. With an FDM printer once youve bought it, and have filament lying around (even for years!), thats pretty much it. some filaments go brittle, in my experience colorfabb does not, so i can go from not using my printer in ages to random times.

resin is messy and i'm not even sure how long the resin bottles last if you left them lying about?ive heard things need replacing, you need to cure stuff and replace trays. thats just hassle to me. im sure i could get used to it, but fdm only has a nozzle or two and when its done its done, both require further touching up, cleaning, but from what ive seen, you ALWAYS need support for resin (Due to the object angle) which means even more waste, such is NOT the case with FDM.

basically

FDM is WAAAAY cheaper and not that bad quality, resin is WAAAY more expensive and better quality for hyper detailed prints that 99% of users will never even be able to model themselves anyway. Hence a waste of money unless you are manufacturing something that requires it I guess.

if you don't like cleaning things, id stay well away from resin printers.

Edited by Guest
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Post your latest print!

i know its a silly question and has probably already been answered, but how do you get the print to appear in the box like that with all the stats?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Post your latest print!

uploading it to the 3D print section and share the embedded code :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited) · Post your latest print!

WP_20160601_14_33_36_Pro.thumb.jpg.b52caf5f12159ae33ee5c1cf6622ac8c.jpg

Could probably do with a bit more polishing but my arm's gone numb.

Edited by Guest
  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Post your latest print!

very nice and shiny! What did you use to polish it? I hear so many different method's.

And how did you have the rest oxidate so fast?

I tried to put some bronze pieces in a sour-like cleaning liquid for a couple of hours and 2 days later it was very green. Almost turquoise.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Post your latest print!

In particular I like the use of the patina as a coloration, applyint it to only certain parts of the piece. Nicely done!

Les

Les patina a print!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited) · Post your latest print!

very nice and shiny! What did you use to polish it? I hear so many different method's.

And how did you have the rest oxidate so fast?

I tried to put some bronze pieces in a sour-like cleaning liquid for a couple of hours and 2 days later it was very green. Almost turquoise.

 

I started off with wire wool which was OK but not as good as 600 grit emery cloth... once my print lines started disappearing it began to shine with the help of a little bit of cheap general purpose metal cleaner. When my arm stops aching I'll finish it off with Brasso.

I used a green ageing solution (patina) from Modern Masters (small bottle is about £5) which only takes a few hours and a couple of coats with a small brush.

I tried a few home solutions... lemon juice, vinegar, salt etc which just took too long and irritated me.

...Thanks Les

...it is a remarkable printing filament... the bust is almost as heavy as the real thing and once you've got a shine going you can just keep on polishing it as if its a real bronze... on reflection I suppose it is really

Edited by Guest

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Post your latest print!

Here is my first 2 color print.. It is just a small thing to surprise my teacher. But is was my first experience using 2 colors. I used pause at height and that was not a success.. It apparently took too long to change the filament so the x,y steppers were not enabled any more so I moved the head.... So when I resumed it would have printed at the wrong place so I interrupted it before touch down. So then I needed to do some gcode hacking to resume the print. So I removed the bottom layers from the gcode zeroed the extruder to the correct length and positioned the platform to the right height. WIth that I printed the red part

P1020915.thumb.JPG.a979bdcad86ccae30ee075a2ac46a523.JPG

Well the result is good enough.

P1020915.thumb.JPG.a979bdcad86ccae30ee075a2ac46a523.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Post your latest print!

zoey89, there is a better technique. There is no need to stop mid=print and risk moving the print head as you describe. Just make two jobs, with the lettering subtracted from the background on the second job and registration marks for centering. Then use the zHop retraction setting set to 1mm or at least larger than the red color and it will turn out well in two colors, run as two separate but overlaid jobs.

Les

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Post your latest print!

Thanks for that info. So you make 2 jobs and you tell Cura to start at a certain height. That would simply things.

I will have to try that out...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted · Post your latest print!

Hi all

Its been awhile since i posted, doing a lot of work in solidworks lately, and messing about with the surfacing tools, i modelled my own starwars ep7 stormtrooper helmet (full size, wearable) to seen if it could handle this type of shape. Worked out ok, gave it a quick paint job with primer and a black and red marker to weather and make it look like finns. first print 1/4 size.

5a331ed7e897d_starwarshelmet1.thumb.JPG.9c65bbe1708478d10b514051a4dd7572.JPG

5a331ed83f20f_starwarep7Finnhelmet.thumb.jpg.c12b23f22d8c29ea26637cab8048b89e.jpg

5a331ed8d07ba_starwarep7Finnhelmet1.thumb.jpg.9d3596a0fc0b9e92a90d2340cdb5f467.jpg

Best

Mark

5a331ed7e897d_starwarshelmet1.thumb.JPG.9c65bbe1708478d10b514051a4dd7572.JPG

5a331ed83f20f_starwarep7Finnhelmet.thumb.jpg.c12b23f22d8c29ea26637cab8048b89e.jpg

5a331ed8d07ba_starwarep7Finnhelmet1.thumb.jpg.9d3596a0fc0b9e92a90d2340cdb5f467.jpg

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited) · Post your latest print!

I saw these on the EEVblog:

gr5 edit: Go to 34min 23 seconds into video / Robert-edit: It should go there automatically (it does for me), I posted it with a timestamp.

And thought, I want those, but I don't want to pay... :)The perks of having a 3d printer, basic CAD skills and random parts around the house. They work great but I might re-design it a bit to make it sturdier (weak central tower because of print direction).

pcb_holder.thumb.jpg.b5843fbacf15fec37c9a66cb6d4ee6e5.jpg

I will not release the files as that would be a complete dick move. It only took 3-4 hours or so to design so anyone can do it if they want.

pcb_holder.thumb.jpg.b5843fbacf15fec37c9a66cb6d4ee6e5.jpg

Edited by gr5
  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!