Post your latest print!

[profepaco 0]

@Chrisp

do you have the ling to the UM2 feet?

thanks

 

[jonnybischof 60]

Oh, I also forgot to mention that I totally redesigned the workstation that was taken down from youmagine.

...

 

Very interesting stuff! The original Dremel workstation is completely useless (stiffness? inexistent...). Hope you got it working better...

/edit:

Finally got around to making some pics of a print I did

I'm currently making an E3Dv5 printhead. First iteration doesn't fully work yet, but it's quite the accomplishment for me. This is by far the most complex construction I've done until now so I'm happy it fits at least partially

The part is printed with Colorfabb XT. Very nice material for this purpose! It evens out most of the low-res curves and makes the part quite strong.

 

[leoddc 74]

@LeoDDC - That looks like it's going to be a nice print. What do you plan on doing with it?

 

Cheers. Just doing it for fun.

I had a problem with the bowden tube moving around but fixed it. Then I had a problem with the print because of some internal overhangs so I changed how I was going to print the model to avoid this. I finally started printing and it was looking good until about 15 hours in I noticed some massive under extrusion. Unfortunately I had to abort the print. Now it barely extrudes any material at all. I think there is probably a blockage it the nozzle but I don't know how to fix it. I've tried several material changes and I've tried heating the nozzle up to 260C as per the trouble shooting instructions but nothing seems to work. :(

This blue brim was printed at 260C.

 

[skint 61]

Awww no way Leo, that's a shame mate, was looking pretty sweet too! Your profile pic says it all.

 

[Nicolinux 288]

@LeoDDC: Check out gr5's answer http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/5597-um2-partially-clogged-nozzle/?p=50149 about a clogged nozzle.

 

[nateokane 0]

@LeoDDC NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOooooooooooooooooooooo Gotham needs it's hero! best of luck getting that resolved. I'm sure you'll get it printing soon!

 

[chrisp 10]

That looks great! I saw that on youmagine and I have a dremel, I just never know what to do with it...

Is it stable?

 

Yes, but it needs a little more meat just above the carriage to even out the weight from the dremel a bit. That will be my next modification this week.

@JonnyBischof

What do you mean? The one I designed doesn't work right? I use it all the time and it works great. I created the files with little tolerances so everything fits as snug as possible. Of courser it's not going to be exactly like an all metal drill press, because it's made of plastic, but it's very effective. Maybe your looking for a plunger type press?

@LeoDDC

Sorry to hear your Batman print got messed up.

 

[jonnybischof 60]

...

@JonnyBischof

What do you mean? The one I designed doesn't work right? I use it all the time and it works great. I created the files with little tolerances so everything fits as snug as possible. Of courser it's not going to be exactly like an all metal drill press, because it's made of plastic, but it's very effective. Maybe your looking for a plunger type press?

...

 

Oh, sorry I wasn't talking about "your original design", but the "real" original Dremel Workstation, made by Dremel

(I may have an older model than the linked one)

 

[chrisp 10]

Oh, sorry I wasn't talking about "your original design", but the "real" original Dremel Workstation, made by Dremel

(I may have an older model than the linked one)

 

Ah, I haven't used the one made by Dremel, but I have heard complaints about it being less than desirable.

 

@Chrisp

do you have the ling to the UM2 feet?

thanks

 

No sorry i don't, but you can find it on Thingiverse or Youmagine. Can't remember which one I downloaded it from. (BTW it is not my design)

 

[mariem 0]

Yay for my first print!!

The little robot is stuck on the glass bed... Now what?

*edit* Neverming, got it off, will definitly need a metal spatula or something, that thing didnt't want to move!

 

[mostlyatomicbob 34]

Mariem,

Let the heated bed cool to room temperature and gently tap it from one side.

If that fails pop the glass bed in the refridgerator for 10 mins and then it will just pop off.

 

[Dim3nsioneer 557]

Congratulations!

Let the bed cool down and it most probably just pops off if temperature falls below 30 degree. Don't try to take it away with brute force while the bed is still quite warm; there are users here in the forum who damaged the glass surface this way I think...

 

[mariem 0]

Hey guys!

Nah I actually waited that the print bed was completly cold before removing it, I didn't try to remove it before the cooling period was over.

Dunno why it sticked so much tho!

 

[codeczombie 0]

If I'm in a hurry and the print is consistent enough (not too small otherwise it will bend), I use a razor blade which I slide under the print on the perimeter, just enough to let it detach from the bed.

Be very careful, couple of times I got small cuts on my fingers.

BTW, it looks like I'm the worst one when it comes to glue the bed glass.

 

Hey guys!

Nah I actually waited that the print bed was completly cold before removing it, I didn't try to remove it before the cooling period was over.

Dunno why it sticked so much tho!

 

[Nicolinux 288]

You applied quite a bit glue for the lil' robot. For the next print, add just a few strokes with the gluestick and use a wet paper towel to smear the glue on the plate until you have a transparent, thin film.

Also change the bed temperature from 75° (default and way too hot) to 60°. UM2 Menu -> Materials -> Settings -> Bed Temperature -> Store as preset -> Back -> PLA.

You can also create two additional filament presets. If you do, they will be called "Custom1" and "Custom2".

And another tip. You can twist the object clockwise or the other way around while tilting it slightly to the side. Then it should pop off the bed.

 

[braddock 1]

Good to see you have your printer now Marie!

Sticking is a good thing... it's when they don't stick that you have problems. As the guys said, get yourself a flat scalpel blade end wedge that under it till you can coax it off.

 

 

Hey guys!

Nah I actually waited that the print bed was completly cold before removing it, I didn't try to remove it before the cooling period was over.

Dunno why it sticked so much tho!

 

[braddock 1]

Shame Leo!

Yep, try the "Atomic Bob" technique to clear your nozzle.

Then, next print, before you kick it off, using the click wheel, select "move material" while turning the click wheel, reach around the back and grab the filament just below the feeder and apply a bit of pushing force, you should feel it move.

Once you get a nice flow, you're good to go.

I do this before every print now. I heat the bed first manually, then move material. When I finally hit "print" I do my first layer or so at 240 then drop it back.

I get less fails this way.

Might also be time for you to ditch the rear spool and use a floor setup with ball bearings.

 

 

Cheers. Just doing it for fun.

I had a problem with the bowden tube moving around but fixed it. Then I had a problem with the print because of some internal overhangs so I changed how I was going to print the model to avoid this. I finally started printing and it was looking good until about 15 hours in I noticed some massive under extrusion. Unfortunately I had to abort the print. Now it barely extrudes any material at all. I think there is probably a blockage it the nozzle but I don't know how to fix it. I've tried several material changes and I've tried heating the nozzle up to 260C as per the trouble shooting instructions but nothing seems to work. :(

This blue brim was printed at 260C.

 

[martin-bienz 36]

@ JonnyBischof, Colorfabb XT seems nice! printed at 250? Is it that strong? The part turned out very nice, looks pro!

@ Chrisp, really nice press. Need to make one asap!

Lego Stars Wars is rather hip at the moment, so my kids asked me to print some from thingiverse. And I did :cool: . Now tomorrow I will NEED to give it to them and I am rather sad for them to leave my office :mrgreen: ...

Storm Trooper (http://www.thingiver...om/thing:170704) (0.1 Layer height), The helmet comes off. It's a 3 - piece print, rather delicate, but I think it turned out ok.:

 

Darth Vader (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:50300) (0.2 Layer height, this also reminded me that 0.2 is fast and still good quality!):

 

Both of them together:

 

have a great day.

 

[DidierKlein 729]

Tried to print the Ultimaker robot in Colorfabb fine wood yesterday (scaled up 220%).

Had to abort the print because after a couple of layers at the beginning of the arms the nozzle clogged :mad: not really sure why, maybe because of the retractions? Or temperature (230°c) anyway i will try it again. It's a bit more complicated than regular PLA maybe i was a bit to optimistic on that print :mrgreen:

After unclogging (3 or 4 atomic tries) i tried another print in fine wood that turned out good (except for the part touching the plate).

 

Here you can see that some of the bottom layers didn't stick well

 

 

[jonnybischof 60]

@ JonnyBischof, Colorfabb XT seems nice! printed at 250? Is it that strong? The part turned out very nice, looks pro!

...

 

I'm still tuning in..

Until now I got the best results (with my PEI plate) starting off at 255°C with 70°C bed. That's very hot and the XT will melt nicely and get very sticky.

As soon as the second layer starts, I go down to 230°C and 65°C bed. I ramp up the fan to be "fully on" at 1mm, and 75% max speed. (That depends a lot on what kind of fan & fan duct you use...).

Bed adhesion is actually almost too strong - I can hardly get the pieces off the bed after it's cooled down. Have to play some more with the PEI plate.

XT is STRONG. While it is possible to break parts (I broke my first printhead trying to hammer in the linear bearing. Yeah, I used a hammer But I'm a gentle person...)

Printing XT hotter (like 250°C) makes it more transparent and even stronger, but it gets more difficult for overhangs to come out nice...

Plastite screws are not so easy to handle with XT, but it works when done right. You need to get the hole diameter exactly right. PLA is much more forgiving in that matter.

I like the lego vader

 

[leoddc 74]

LeoDCC: Thanks for testing the plastic types, had a generic plastic sample from iMakr I think it's the same generic one you used but in light blue. It has a nice translucency when held close to a light. It also had a cleaner surface.

Cool work on your blog, would be nice to see how your Lunch Time alien would look like printed.

 

Thanks man, really glad you like it. I'm actually thinking about printing that guy. I really like your Slithe bust by the way, really nicely sculpted.

 

Awww no way Leo, that's a shame mate, was looking pretty sweet too! Your profile pic says it all.

 

Lol, yep the picture just about sums it up.

@Nicolinux: Thanks for the info mate

@Nateokane: Lol. It sucks but I'm sure you're right I'll get it fixed soon. Nice camera mount by the way. Does it work on a UM 2?

@Chrisp: Thanks man. By the way that dremle station is looking bad ass.

@Ian: cool looking mechanical prints. I definitely want to try some funtional designs.

@mariem: Awesome. Cant wait to see some of your characters come to life.

@braddock: Thanks for the info dude. I'm a bit nervous about taking this thing appart but I geuss I'm going to have to get used to it. Do you know of any visual guids on how to do this because I tend to make a mess of this kind of thing.

@Martin Bienz: Cool lego figures, I'm sure the kids'l love em.

@Didier: Nice prints mate. I really like that bright green stuff you were using.

@JonnyBischof: I've been interested in using XT. Does it have any bad fumes like ABS or is it more like PLA?

 

[mariem 0]

Heloooooo

So I did take on a pretty big challenge (I knew this was going to fail haha) with an attempt to print Jinx.

Wanted to see how it turned out to try and fix my mistakes.

I had some problem with Cura, you know the little saving icon under where you usually see the progress, it was always stopping very close to the end, and would never finish,

Seemed like it was a problem with my shell thickness (manage to finish once I changed it)

What exactly does that mean and what is a good setting for it?

So this was printed at 20mm/s, .06 layer height no support (duh... what do you guys use for support, meshmixer?)

Obviously the braid failed and other part too because they would have needed support (wich I was aware of)

So what is the best solution when it comes to support?

Otherwise, There is a lot of ''dangly'' bits hanging out between surfaces, what is the reason for those and is there a way to avoid them?

Otherwise still happy with the attempt, there is some very smooth surfaces and great result (on the bra and hair, very nice).

On the bag there is huge dangly parts, like wings, I suppose it was because of the lack of support on the hair (I remove the bottom part of the hair on the picture, but they exist )

 

[Nicolinux 288]

Shell thickness dictates how many outer shells your object will have. Since the Ultimaker 2 has a 0.4mm nozzle, you should always chose a multiple of that value. So 0.8mm means two outer shells.

Meshmixer is great for supports. Check out illuminarti's blog post - link.

Those dangling bits between two walls is due to "stringing". When the nozzle is done with the left arm for example, and moves to the torso, it retracts a bit of filament so it won't ooze too much on the way to the torso. Depending on the print temperature and speed, you'd get more or less stringing. I'd say, at 20mm/s, you can pretty much print at the lowes temperature possible for the filament (PLA maybe 185° - 190°).

Temperature vs. speed is the stuff for nightmares - because one seems to never get the combination juuuust right

 

[braddock 1]

You can try mesh mixer, but since you're a modeler, you might get better results making your own, you often only need something to bridge across to the rest of the model. Inverted trumpet type shapes work best if building supports from the ground up. Make a nice fat base, then taper upwards.

Those dangly bits between surfaces can be improved with retraction settings. In expert settings, switch both values for retraction to 0. I do however sometimes print with retraction off because it's faster, then scrape those bits off.

 

 

Heloooooo

So I did take on a pretty big challenge (I knew this was going to fail haha) with an attempt to print Jinx.

Wanted to see how it turned out to try and fix my mistakes.

I had some problem with Cura, you know the little saving icon under where you usually see the progress, it was always stopping very close to the end, and would never finish,

Seemed like it was a problem with my shell thickness (manage to finish once I changed it)

What exactly does that mean and what is a good setting for it?

So this was printed at 20mm/s, .06 layer height no support (duh... what do you guys use for support, meshmixer?)

Obviously the braid failed and other part too because they would have needed support (wich I was aware of)

So what is the best solution when it comes to support?

Otherwise, There is a lot of ''dangly'' bits hanging out between surfaces, what is the reason for those and is there a way to avoid them?

Otherwise still happy with the attempt, there is some very smooth surfaces and great result (on the bra and hair, very nice).

On the bag there is huge dangly parts, like wings, I suppose it was because of the lack of support on the hair (I remove the bottom part of the hair on the picture, but they exist )

 

[illuminarti 18]

To get rid of the stringy bits, you should also make sure you increase the travel speed as much as possible. At least 250mm/s should work. That will reduce the amount of time the head spends moving between parts, so there will be less time for the plastic to ooze back out while en route.