@reibuehl: Of course, if you heat it up for a long time it will conduct heat deeper into the core of the wrench, but as you may know steel is quite a poor heat conductor, and the extra thermal interface and the extra length you add would keep you good as long as you do not get the socket very hot (so the base of the hex adapter gets over 60 degrees in case of PLA, or even higher for XT or ABS) you should have no problem.
Sure, a plastic pin is easier to replace, but also easier to destroy than the hex+adapter version.
I have had no problems so far with deformation of the original plastic design, but then i do the change quite fast.
Recommended Posts
Top Posters In This Topic
110
109
71
62
Popular Days
Aug 18
22
Feb 19
22
Feb 20
19
Jan 24
19
Top Posters In This Topic
swordriff 110 posts
gr5 109 posts
ultiarjan 71 posts
Anders Olsson 62 posts
Popular Days
Aug 18 2015
22 posts
Feb 19 2015
22 posts
Feb 20 2015
19 posts
Jan 24 2015
19 posts
Posted Images
titanoid 4
Hey twistx, how are your experiences so far?
With my old heater block, I used Xilence X5 to stabilize my temps during prints (with great result!).
Unfortunately this brought me in big trouble when changing the block to the Olsson. This stuff dried and held the two brothers VERY well in place. I only got them out by carefully drilling holes from the front side (5mm deep, if someone is interested).
I already wondered if sth like that would improve temp handling with the Olsson Block. As it has holes to push heater and sensor out, the Xilence X5 might work. But it would be better if the stuff won't get dry and hard, right?
So what does your silicon compound do?
Link to post
Share on other sites