Hallo everybody,
who is using the olson block with the 35W heating element from 3Dsolex? Do you need this enhanced power due to the fact that the olson block is longer ?
I want to do ABS on long-lasting prints and I am currently still on stock (um2).
Thanks and regards,
Nils
I still have the original heater and it works fine for me. But I also have the software that doesn't bitch about "heater error" (firmware version 14.09).
Just used the Olson on 245c for a couple of hours with the original UM heater element, no problem ... you need to make sure the heater is pushed in far enough. I'm on a more recent firmware 15.??
Hallo ultiarjan,
I have just received my UM 2. It has the latest firmware 15.02.1. I am printing ABS at 260, but still optimizing the settings.
Regards,
Nils
I've been using it with the origional heater and sensor for weeks now, the only thing I've done is reduced the fan speed for the initial layers, works very well, much better print quality.
I print @ 255 a few days now. No problem with stock heater.
1
Are there any advantages or even disadvantages when using the 35W heater ?
Advantage of 35W heater: Less likely Error Heater when fan comes full on suddenly. I alwaus recommend adding fan slowly. In expert settings fan minimum 10, max 100. This way the machine helps making a slow Fan-on.
I am working on nozzles with a completely different architecture, which will print much faster than 10-15cubic mm/s. These will require a 35W heater to exploit the full potential, because so much more filament needs to be liquified.
Disadvantage cost.
1
I am not using the fan currently at ABS prints.
@Swordiff: When will these noozles be available. Will they fit the olson block / um 2 ?
Cost I would not count as an disadvantage. It is still cheaper than a new original heater and after spending a reasonable amount of money for an um2, this does not make to much difference.
If successful, they will fit UM2-Olsson and UMO! They will have M6 Threading.
Are these noozles specialized for only some fillaments or "general-purpose" ?
The brass nozzles are all general purpose nozzles. Brass is a commonly used material and in fact Ultimaker also uses brass for the nozzle part. Steel nozzles are special purpose for materials that have particles (brass fill, carbon fiber fill) that wear down nozzles fast. Steel nozzles aren't popular because they don't transport heat as well so you have to print hotter.
Swordriff sells several different size nozzles as well as many other useful things on his website.
2
I have ordered the olson block with all different kinds of noozles (JET, JET-RSS and JET-RSB) - just to be able to try all possible combinations of noozles / fillament, if needed.
What would be your suggestion for printing Colorfabb xt / xt-cf 20 and fillamentum timberfill - JET, JET-RSS or JET-RSB - which size ?
Am I right, that for printing ABS the normal jet brass noozles are the best ?
@swordiff: I have read in a different post, that there might be 1mm noozles someday. Due to the fact that I want to print 2 mm thick walls (rc model with some weight + speed), I am highly interested in these.
Stick with the RSB nozzle for almost everything. Definitely try out the .6 or .8mm nozzles - these print so amazingly fast. The resolution isn't as good but it's still pretty cool. The .6mm can print quite reasonable quality twice as fast.
I am a bit confused: on 3dsolex the RSB is only available at .6 but not on .8mm and the normal JET the other way around. I have ordered the biggest of both.
I will start (for ABS) with the JET .8mm because for my model the details do not count so much, but I need more speed 
: I will do grinding, priming and painting (color + flat clear varnish), so the surface of the parts will look different anyway...
Hi Nils!
You will only need a new heater if the original is weak, which some UM2s have. I have measured them down to 17W. You would already have had problems.
The Olsson Block takes some seconds longer to heat.
Ther IS a difference which can be noticable, and it is that the Olsson Block w/nozzle is deeper into the fan shadow, so a sudden 100% fan on will give you temp error and an aborted print. You can have that with the standard block as well, but it is less frequent.
The way to avoid it is to increment fan gradually, make few and small temp changes while printing.
A 35W heater helps more and especially when printing at high temperature and high speed.
Edited by Guest
1
Hallo Swordriff,
which noozle would you recommend the most for speed:
Do you need the 35w heating element for 1.0 ?
Regards,
Nils
Edited by GuestHello Nils! Fast nozzles:
There are 2 different "speeds". Move fast=smaller nozzle.
Print a lot of plastic= bigger nozzle, up to a certain point where the plastic does not heat up enough. A higher heater will not help much, unless you increase the temperature risking other problems.
General guidelines for fine results using a otherwise well tuned UM2 print speeds and layer heights are (many will disagree, and I am not always right):
0.25: 60mm/s Lh 0.08-0.15
0.40: 40mm/s Lh 0.10-0.2 (up to 100mm/s possible with right tuning and good heater!)
0.60: 30mm/s Lh 0.2 -0.4
0.80: 10mm/s Lh 0.3 -0.6 (The 3dSolex JET RSB080 has a 4 times bigger nozzle opening (Areal) than a 0.40mm standard nozzle. A= Pi x (r x r).
RSB100x is a 1.0mm size, I call it Toothpaste. Start with 10mm/s and work up from there. Layer height? You find out! Maybe cool with a very low one like 0.1. Try it, but they are not ready before end of June.
Remember, when you double layer height, you double plastic output.
Here is the formula: A (from above) x Lh x speed = cmm/s.
Example wit 0.40 nozzle: A= 3,14 x (0.2x0.2)=0.1256.
0.1256 x Lh (0.25,ok?)x 200mm/s = 6.3 cmm/s.
With the RSB60 you will be able to reach at least the double output, if you do everything right:
Heater ok (25W)
Bed gap right
Material good
nozzle clean
Bowden tube slippery
Extruder correct (Roberts or original one correctly asjusted)
Teflon Ok
Right Layer hight
Speed right
fans right ( off )
plus more
The highest output of plastic is with the 060 or 080. The RSB is faster because the internal geometry never goes "against" the flow. 15cmm/s is easy with RSB60 and RSB80.
The JET80 is going out of production. It has the advantage that it was easier to drill to another size!
One advantage of having exchangeable nozzles is that you can have one nozzle for each material, and do not have to do Atomic all the time. Atomic you find in www.3dverkstan.se support pages. This shop offers the best support I know of in Europe.
Edited by Guest
4
Hi Swordriff,
your recommended print speeds / layer heigths are for fine prints. What would you recommend, maybe as a starting point, for a speed setup. As I mentioned before, my interest lies more in speed than in quality, since i am planing a lot of "post-processing" after printing.
Regards,
Nils
Hi Swordriff,your recommended print speeds / layer heigths are for fine prints. What would you recommend, maybe as a starting point, for a speed setup. As I mentioned before, my interest lies more in speed than in quality, since i am planing a lot of "post-processing" after printing.
Regards,
Nils
Hi Nils,
for your information I have just got my "olson block" working perfectly and have achieved amassing speeds with the 0.4 RSB - 100mm/s but I have backed off to 80mm/s !!
The prints are really good quality too
good luck
S
Hi stu_le_brew,
what did you do to get it "working perfectly" ? Did you do any "hardware optimizations" ? Are you using an I2K, too? What filament are you printing ?
Regards,
Nils
ArunC posted a topic in UltiMaker Cura,
.thumb.jpeg.0b7a05eafc09add17b8338efde5852e9.jpeg)
Dustin posted a topic in Firmware,
Recommended Posts
mechamecha 64
shurik - I did change my Teflon insulator recently, but it was when I still had the stock heater block/nozzle installed, and it didn't make an appreciable difference. So now I have the new Teflon insulator, Olsson block and RSB nozzle installed, and my UM2 is working great!
Link to post
Share on other sites
personal-drones 44
Don't forget to install a I2K Insulator to prolong the life of the teflon coupler
Link to post
Share on other sites