Custom heater block to fit E3D nozzle on Ultimaker 2 ("The Olsson Block")

[ultiarjan 1,223]

did you just wrap the block in alufoil ?

[jangermann 12]

did you just wrap the block in alufoil ?

 

Yes :-)

Took a sheet of alufoil, half A4, folded multible times, cut a hole, and then wrap around the heater.

[jangermann 12]

To all who is having problems with melted fan mounts. Maybe you should try to use alu tape. It reflects the heat.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/151359066809

[esteban-pacheco 33]

Hello Forum! i just want to know if theres new nomenclature on the olson nozzles... i was taking a look at Ultimakers home page, and they shipping the news ultimaker with an olsson Block. and 4 nozzles, and the orifice diameter (with number) is engraved on one side of the nozzle. no more "dot" system?

Cheers. and happy new year for all

[Labern 774]

Yes. AL the new nozzles have the sizes on them. Also some of them have a different external shape compared to the old ones.

[meduza 191]

Hello Forum! i just want to know if theres new nomenclature on the olson nozzles... i was taking a look at Ultimakers home page, and they shipping the news ultimaker with an olsson Block. and 4 nozzles, and the orifice diameter (with number) is engraved on one side of the nozzle. no more "dot" system?

Cheers. and happy new year for all

 

The new ones have both laser engraving and the dots.

[MrTechAgent 2]

Hello!

Does anyone know how long does "3D Solex" take to acknowledge an order and ship it?

I ordered the Olsson Block two days ago and send them a note regarding a few questions I had about my shipping in the notes during the PayPal checkout as well as writing down the same queries by filling the form on their website, but I still haven't heard back.

Not a huge fan of such business where the seller doesn't communicate promptly and since Anders follows this thread, I thought this should click him to check his E-Mails or perhaps improve his communication, there are no re-sellers in my country so ordering via 3D Solex was my only option. Hope it doesn't turn into regret Anders.

Edited January 17, 2016 by Guest

[meduza 191]

 

@MrTechAgent: @anders-olsson aka Anders does not have anything to do with 3dsolex order fulfillment, @swordriff aka Carl is the one taking care of all that (they are even in different countries)

Edited January 17, 2016 by Guest

[gr5 2,173]

3dsolex really prefers you use other places to order your parts. I'm sure one of them will ship to India. He is not big on communication but he is quite good on sending you whatever you order. And if you are unhappy he is quick to send a free replacement or refund or whatever you want.

[zerspaner_gerd 382]

Hello everybody,

I registered new in Ultimaker Forum. (Forgive me the one or the other error)

Iam Olson block since about June 2015. And am very to peace.

Well I ordered a 35 Watt heating (from 3dSolex).

Now my question has to what to change in the firmware, and if so what?

I once read about it in the forum (on page 30 of @Dim3nsioneer). What you have to enter there.

 

Well, a 35W heater produces 1.4 times as much heat as a 25W heater. Putting this heat into a limited amount of material lets temperature increase 1.4times faster (as long as nothing melts, otherwise part of the energy goes into latent heat).

edit: Changes would have to be made on this line...

 

I have the Tinker firmware 16.01 (Tinker_16.01)

[MrTechAgent 2]

3dsolex really prefers you use other places to order your parts.   I'm sure one of them will ship to India.  He is not big on communication but he is quite good on sending you whatever you order.  And if you are unhappy he is quick to send a free replacement or refund or whatever you want.

 

Thanks gr5.

Don't you think him being not big on communication is a bit unprofessional?

I have never dealt with such unprofessional transaction in a long time. I hope he has enough time to send me a tracking link once shipped!

[tinkergnome 927]

Well I ordered a 35 Watt heating (from 3dSolex).

Now my question has to what to change in the firmware, and if so what?

 

Welcome to the forum!

You should adjust the PID parameters after installing the new heater. No other changes are needed.

I recommend the auto-tuning feature. Choose your preferred printing temperature and 8 or 10 cycles - wait until it finishes - and store the results afterwards. That's all.

Advanced -> Preferences -> Temperature Control

If you're interested: more about PID tuning at the RepRapWiki

[gr5 2,173]

I didn't bother with the tuning and it's good enough. I suppose I should do it to reduce the initial overshoot in temperature. I think Daid's original PID values may have been for a 35W heater actually as at one point he realized that most printers were 25W but his was 35W.

[gr5 2,173]

I have never dealt with such unprofessional transaction in a long time.

You probably have NEVER dealt with an internet store this small. It is staffed by one person who is concentrating on new products. Not the store. He really really wants you to use the other stores out there. He has some fantastic new products coming out - the only one I can mention is a new super hard nozzle that makes steel nozzle look like butter. But store sales? I don't think it's his thing. Also he just moved his family and store into a new house and everything is in boxes and hard to find and everything takes longer than before when you don't know where anything is. Although of course email is in the same place it always was. Maybe your emails are in his spam folder.

[Nicolinux 288]

I had to deal with PID Autotune lately on my UM2. I have posted it here:

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/18625-solved-um2-pid-autotune-failed

[ultiarjan 1,223]

 

I have never dealt with such unprofessional transaction in a long time.

You probably have NEVER dealt with an internet store this small.

 

Actually he's traveling atm... I know... just had dinner with him

[MrTechAgent 2]

 

I have never dealt with such unprofessional transaction in a long time.

You probably have NEVER dealt with an internet store this small.  It is staffed by one person who is concentrating on new products.  Not the store.  He really really wants you to use the other stores out there.  He has some fantastic new products coming out - the only one I can mention is a new super hard nozzle that makes steel nozzle look like butter.  But store sales?  I don't think it's his thing.  Also he just moved his family and store into a new house and everything is in boxes and hard to find and everything takes longer than before when you don't know where anything is.  Although of course email is in the same place it always was.  Maybe your emails are in his spam folder.

 

Thanks gr5.

I finally got in touch with Swordiff and he said that he'll ship the order tomorrow.

Man, you guys are tough on me LOL!, anyway Swordiff seems like a nice guy.

[IRobertI 520]

Well you posted on the 17:th and said you ordered two days ago. That would be Friday. So you're mad that he didn't reply to you during the weekend? That's a bit harsh I think.

[zerspaner_gerd 382]

Thank you for your answers and information!

 

You should adjust the PID parameters after installing the new heater. No other changes are needed.

I recommend the auto-tuning feature. Choose your preferred printing temperature and 8 or 10 cycles - wait until it finishes - and store the results afterwards. That's all.

Advanced -> Preferences -> Temperature Control

 

@tinkergnome will then once change the subject, because it belongs here no longer here?

(have tried heating on auto tuning function, already with 25 Watt, curious white, strangely went nothing more.

More I'll post here.

[MrTechAgent 2]

Hi guys,

I had a few questions regarding cleaning Nozzles. I have a Workhorse Nozzle where I constantly switch between ABS, PLA, Nylon and PC and the Nozzle get's really gunky on the outside, if it was just ABS I know you can let it soak in Acetone and then peel off the remnants but since I'm using a variety here, I can't seem to figure out how to keep the Nozzle clean ensuring it always stays in working order.

Thanks.

Edited February 29, 2016 by Guest

[Labern 774]

You can do atomic pulls on the outside of the nozzle to clean it up. Heat it, Push a bit of filament onto the outside it will melt onto the nozzle, let it cool then yank it off.

If you have nylon I would use that for the pulls

[MrTechAgent 2]

You can do atomic pulls on the outside of the nozzle to clean it up. Heat it, Push a bit of filament onto the outside it will melt onto the nozzle, let it cool then yank it off.

If you have nylon I would use that for the pulls

 

Hi, tried your method (using Nylon) but no success!

[neotko 1,417]

 

You can do atomic pulls on the outside of the nozzle to clean it up. Heat it, Push a bit of filament onto the outside it will melt onto the nozzle, let it cool then yank it off.

If you have nylon I would use that for the pulls

 

Hi, tried your method (using Nylon) but no success!

 

This way?

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/18359-nozzle-exterior-reverse-atomics

[gr5 2,173]

You have to cool the nozzle to around 80C or even lower when doing an "external nylon pull". I've never tried it but I know for sure you want a lower temperature for the cool phase.

You can certainly burn all that gunk off in flame. But be careful as the nozzle heats up in flame about 10X faster than it cools when not in flame so you don't want to actually melt the brass. You have a huge margin between burn temp and brass-melt temp but still be careful.

[MrTechAgent 2]

 

 

You can do atomic pulls on the outside of the nozzle to clean it up. Heat it, Push a bit of filament onto the outside it will melt onto the nozzle, let it cool then yank it off.

If you have nylon I would use that for the pulls

 

Hi, tried your method (using Nylon) but no success!

 

This way?

https://ultimaker.com/en/community/18359-nozzle-exterior-reverse-atomics

 

Yup but I'll give it another shot keeping in mind the Temps gr5 recommends.

Edited March 4, 2016 by Guest