A different multi-extrusion approach - UM tool / printhead changer

[gr5 2,181]

Turn it off AND UNPLUG IT for a few hours. Usually they take a few hours to recover - I don't know why. I had one power supply that took a few days and it's fine now. 24 hours later it still refused to work. Also maybe you still have a short somewhere?

[macua85 52]

So, i have tried disconnecting heaters etc, no change. I removed the steppers, and now I am able to turn it on, even after the steppers are back in. However, the ulticontroller is coming up blank, (or a few half blocks showing), and the USB doesn't communicate with the laptop, no connection. So think i've fried the arduino? Maybe thats where the click came from? DO they have any fuses?

I'll give up for the night now, and see if its working in the morning but I have my doubts. Its ironic, I've managed to fix the fan which caused all these problems in the first place!

[macua85 52]

So its confirmed dead...hoping its only the arduino. Ive just ordered a replacement, should be here tomorrow. Fingers crossed all is ok after that!

[jonnybischof 60]

Usually there are no melting fuses used in nowadays electronics. Only self-resetting stuff such as PTC fuses.

In 3D printer electronics, there are a few boards that have PTC fuses, but most of them don't and will simply blow out some component(s) when you create a short-circuit.

Thanks for giving me something that I have to check on with my own electronics project

[macua85 52]

Hey guys,

So I replaced the arduino, and can now upload firmware files no problem. However, the ulticontroller screen is blank, with the backlight cycling between 3 brightness levels continuously. I try to run bed level wizard from cura, but says can establish connection. Any idea what the cause is? Or what I could have fried on the ultimaker board?

[ultiarjan 1,223]

Beautiful failure.... huge underextruded Donkey Kong. .

Edited August 23, 2015 by Guest

[ultiarjan 1,223]

Thought of this a long time ago, but finally made a proof of concept.

to setup the wipe shield on the bed you need to calculate the Z in every change. I don't think this is possible in S3D's scripting. Ideally I would write a post-processing script in python (to reuse as cura plugin) but learning python is still on the long to-do list, so I got creative a made a postprocessing template in ms-excel... a lot faster to use the tools you know

It may not show well in the video but I'm priming before the wipe.

 

I feel this could work, need to do a few more things;

- make a wipe container that actually holds the rubber, think I'll use small a alu L-profile

- make the wipe area wider, and vary the wipe position over the total length

- add a retract after the wipe

fyi, the red and white "ears" on both side of the printer are magnetic holders to park the heads outside the printer when needed..

Edited August 30, 2015 by Guest

[Skimmy 0]

Video is private :/

[ultiarjan 1,223]

Video is private :/

 

should be solved now ...

[neotko 1,417]

One question. Have you tried to make an absolute positioning on the tool change and after that reseting the z to the right one using the [current_Z_position]?

[neotko 1,417]

Btw seems on v3 they changed the placeholder to [current_position_z]. With that for what I read on s3d forums you could totally do it automagically without the excel.

[ultiarjan 1,223]

Btw seems on v3 they changed the placeholder to [current_position_z]. With that for what I read on s3d forums you could totally do it automagically without the excel.

 

that would be nice... i'll have a look around there forum... thanks

[neotko 1,417]

There's a great example of a user that uses the command to wipe the extruder on their cube wipe box.

 

{IF NEWTOOL=0}T0{IF NEWTOOL=1}T1G1 X108.000 Y136.000 Z[current_Z_position] F8000.0G1 X108.000 Y161.000 Z[current_Z_position] F8000.0{IF NEWTOOL=0}M101REV{IF NEWTOOL=1}M201REVG1 X109.000 Y161.000 Z[current_Z_position] F8000.0G4 P5M103G1 X108.000 Y136.000 Z[current_Z_position] F8000.0G1 X108.000 Y161.000 Z[current_Z_position] F8000.0

 

Copy from: https://forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=2067&start=20 But I think they changed the name of current_Z_position for what I found reading other posts, but with that it should be a walk in the park to use your wipe box.

[macua85 52]

Man I HATE this new website. I just wrote a huge write up of what I've been up to and why, webpage crashed when uploading pics. WHY IS THERE NO AUTOSAVE OF POSTS!? Anyway thanks to this crappy new site, will have to do without now. Pics only instead, cant be bothered to write it all out again.

[neotko 1,417]

Just one think... I really really think you need aluminium to hold the peek. It's part of the original design to disipate the heat (100C) on that area. Upper bigger area of peek reaches 62C with aluminium down there so It should clog very fast. But I can't wait to read from you what you wrote.

Edited September 3, 2015 by Guest

[neotko 1,417]

Oh I see you attached the cooling fan. Umm interesting. Anyhow gou might need to 'curve' the inside so the fan air hits both sides of the peek.

[macua85 52]

Yup, the cooling fan seems to take care of it all. Ive printed an 8h 250 degree print with no issues. The cooling fan is ducted inside the unit to flow to underneath and the PTFE, pics show it better:

I did learn the hard way though. Accidentally unplugged one of the fans and started a print...the PEEK crapped itself out of the bottom of the assemble within 5 mins.

Edited September 4, 2015 by Guest

[foehnsturm 969]

 

Three heads? Wow!

Edited September 6, 2015 by Guest

[macua85 52]

Haha, no i'm not that advanced! The third 'umbilical' is for the parts fan on the main gantry head

[macua85 52]

Time for an update. I've had a chance to run off the first proper dual extrusion print with the new setup. I have to say, i'm pretty pleased with the results. The parts cooling is still a bit of a work in progress, but I adapted my design to suit the position of the two different hotends. One of them sits in a different position due to the height adjustment mechanism.

First test print robot results look good, I think this design is a keeper. Its a print and forget system now the e3d and jamming has been removed from the equation. The one screw height adjustment is also working as expected, no issues levelling the nozzles, and it stays good once set.

Once again, at this moment i'd post pictures but the new website/forum is letting me down. I'll try again tomorrow.

Edited September 7, 2015 by Guest

[neotko 1,417]

I'm very interested on seeing that one screw leveling solution. Mine it's too bulky and while it works I was going to change it for a 3mm flexible material part that could be compressed when screwing all. Anyhow I think since your heads don't touch the place when they are parked, you could juat make a z level change. S3D let's you assign z offsets for each process.

[macua85 52]

This is the screw adjust system, it's the same as the i used on the e3d setup, got no drawing pics of it in current setup.

[neotko 1,417]

Ohh I get it now. That's a quite clean solution. Great!

[KevinMakes 22]

I have found that a better "wiping tool" is the cut off head of a small (toothbrush sized) wire brush.

[neotko 1,417]

I have found that a better "wiping tool" is the cut off head of a small (toothbrush sized) wire brush.

 

I tryed that route and the problem I see on that it's that the filament sticks to it too much. I got trouble when the brush was too much 'fillup' causing the head to tild when hitting the cold pla.

I would love to have something like this to save space and it could be called by a gcode?

http://3dprint.com/87898/3d-printer-hacks/

Edited September 9, 2015 by Guest