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Hi @SJDrummond, Not sure.. electronics is not my field of expertise. Could it be you are overheating your stepperdrivers?

Hi @DirtRider07, thank you for your reply! You don't have an UltiController? Did you get your Ultimaker second hand? I thought it has been a while since we sold the Ultimaker Original without an UltiController. I would definitely recommend getting one if you don't. (it is the display that is mounted on the front.) Can you take a picture of how your electronics look like? Just to establish if you have an Ultimaker Original or Ultimaker original +. If you want to upload your firmware, first you select which machine you have (make sure it is the right one, and then choose install default firmware. Regardless, if you open Cura 15.4 you can select Machine (first say no about downloading latest firmware) > add new machine > select Ultimaker Original. > Install default firmware.

Hi and welcome to the forums. Which Ultimaker do you have? And more importantly.. why would you like to print over USB? Through SD is much more stable and far less problems. Plus your computer is free and you can put your Ultimaker wherever you want! If you have an Ultimaker Original, you may want to look into the software pronterface to control it over USB. Thought two.. are you sure your Ultimaker Original is turned on? Because it is powered by an USB a light on the head can turn on I believe, give you the appearance that it is on where in fact it is still turned off. Looking forward hearing from you!

Hi @ChrisW, did you talk to any of the UM crew members? I was there as well, but I don't believe we met, did we? I'm not sure if the show was open for regular guests on Friday. I believe it was more a press / educator's day. Check that out before you go, but you still have some time to check that out About the under extrusion, overall all machines were working quite well but there were a few that showed some signs of under extrusion. This was probably due to the draft coming from those huge hangar doors which were open next to our booth. I battled it by increasing temp on each print 223ºC instead of the default 210ºC. This worked best in my experience. But default it automatically started at 210ºC. Perhaps someone started a print, heated bed needed to heat up, someone asked a question and the temp was never altered. I hope you had a great time, I certainly did. I love going to the Maker Faires, and Bay Area is one of my favorites! (but sooooooo busy!!)

I understand it is in theory, that is why I forwarded it so they could test it and form a professional opinion. I personally don't have the technical knowledge to do this in this regard. If you feel comfortable you can share your methods with others users who understand the risk. That is one of the advantages of sharing the knowledge on such a platform Of course, only if you feel comfortable yourself!

very nice and shiny! What did you use to polish it? I hear so many different method's. And how did you have the rest oxidate so fast? I tried to put some bronze pieces in a sour-like cleaning liquid for a couple of hours and 2 days later it was very green. Almost turquoise.

I forwarded this towards my colleague in R&D (so you know we are aware), and personally I am also curious to the complexity of this fix. The improvement is bigger then I would expect it to be.

You should! Do you have a Z-unlimited too? What did you make already? We used a bigger nozzle on these for the sake of time. I believe we used a 1.5mm nozzle so that is pretty big.

Did you also have some pictures where the print was complete? The surface quality we achieved still amazes me!

Photo's are always good to add! What machine are you using? Another possible cause could be that your belts are not tight.

uploading it to the 3D print section and share the embedded code

Your knurled wheel should create the motion, does also scratched your filament or is it the wheel that supplies the pressure that pushed the filament against the knurled wheel? Have you tried opening up your feeder? That 'pushing-wheel' should be secured between two arms. Could you check if that wheel can still rotate freely and if those arms are still correct? Perhaps by adding a picture of what the inside of your feeder looks like it could pinpoint us into a certain direction. Thanks!

Haven't read every post on this thread, but from the bat I would probably suggest is a heated bed as a must have, add dual fans and enclosures to minmize draft. Maybe the pulleys too. I never felt the urge to upgrade the feeder. And in our Resources page you can find a few nice upgrade tutorials with valuable contributions by @Neotko If you want to go crazy, have you ever looked at a Z unlimited?

Is it going to be on display somewhere?

Thank you for your post, it looks like a huge improvement in a small level of detail! To achieve this you pulled the ROSC pin to ground? Are there any drawbacks to this? @DrR1pper, thank you for sharing all those comparisons. I do find it hard to say which of the models looks best. It looks like they both have lines, except (if I recognize the matt from the shiny correctly), it looks like Ultimakers are vertical and Zortrax are diagonal. What do you think?

Going commando-style! (Sticks just fine on the naked glass at 60°C)

First of all I wanted to thank everyone for joining in on this contest. What looked like to be an easy task to make the Ultibot go out for a walk turned out to be a challenge for even our most expert users. I guess this means more acknowledgement and respect for the winner! Perhaps the winner could share some tips on how he got his Ultibot to walk so consistent. @Eraser set the bar amazingly high with his entry, but before the end of the contest there was a final offense from @HDMakerspace to steal the grand prize. Who would come out a winner? As a team we watched all entries and we came to an agreement that even though we absolutely loved all the creativity and entries, there was one entry we could not stop watching. The winner of this contest is... @ERASER! Congratulations on behalf of the entire team!!! I will reach out to you in a personal message to get the shipping details aligned. Enjoy your victorious Monday!

Thank you for your post. I would like to ask if you care to open up a new topic about this, so we can help you troubleshoot your issues. If someone else has them too it is easier to find a solution on your new thread instead of page 12 over here You can put the link to your new thread in your post. Your feeder shouldn't really be scratching the filament. Perhaps when you took it apart to check the internals something got misplaced? Are you releasing the tension to the fullest with the lever? It is always recommended to straighten the filament a little bit by hand before you feed it in the feeder. Could you elaborate a little bit about the error you are having? Thank you!

Hi @Antonst13, usually posting a question just once should be sufficient to get an answer Did you already place an order or are you looking to get one? The resellers should be in touch with our distribution team and be able to get an update on when the Extrusion Upgrades will be back in stock. Have you tried talking to your local reseller? Thank you!

Hi @Dirtrider07, welcome to the forums! @SJDrummond too! Could you check if you have uploaded the correct firmware? The UMO with a heated bed has a different Z-motor and you should upload the firmware for the UMO+. Perhaps that should help. About the max temp error, when does this happen? Could you upload a picture of the top of your printhead? Did it do this from the start or only occasionally? And Sean, linking your axis issue to your hot end doesn't really make sense right now for me. For me what would be most obvious is if during installation some belts or pulleys got loose. Are your short belts tight? Could you run by all 12(!) pulleys and tighten the set screws like you have never tightened anything before? Remember not to forget the ones on the X and Y motor (but you probably should start with Y). Good luck both!

HI @JSDK, Welcome to the forums and congratulations on your Ultimaker 2+! What you see is your axis which probably got loose during shipment. It should be clicked in the (what is called a) sliderblock, and should just snap in. So perhaps a little bit more force is required. But watch out where you apply the force, so you don't bent your axis. As close to the frame as possible is the best way. Good luck!

Well it could still make sense, and if it prints with smaller micro steps there could still be missing steps except so small you would barely see them? And the choice in material could also influence the outcome. well.. it won't affect the motor of course but the level to which it shows in the surface might.

@DrR1pper, is this the same material for both? How would you explain M200 doesn't have them?

So depending on the inconsistency of the current it may lead to a missing step down the line? Like if it does 0.8 instead of 1 for 5 times, you are missing a full step? There is probably plenty of which I don't understand, but what struck me as weird (and maybe it is not weird at all so that is why I'm asking) is that he said it also happened on his home build 3D Printer. So that leads me to think it is a stepper motor problem? Or stepper driver? But it can be fixed by whatever he added to his electronics, right? So initially I thought hm, maybe we missed this small thing in our electronics design, but if it is in more printers, and can be 'relatively easy fixed', how come the error still exists? Doesn't really make sense that is why I think it is more complicated then I just wrote down here.

You must, it will probably be a busy event