SandervG

You may want to have different test pieces for different materials? This may be a good entry point for two colors, but you would want something completely different for PVA. And again something different for a combination with flexible materials.

ohh luckily that is a rare occurrence. Is it fixed now? You can happily continue 3D printing? Enjoy!

Thanks for sharing this! Sounds pretty easy and your model looks really cool.

I would probably recommend something down the lines of Zbrush, which is more of a sculpting tool. I could also recommend to check out some youtube video's and get in touch with the designers to find out what they use. But most modelling tools require a lot of training, tutorials and time to use on a high level. If you browse our 3D print section you may also find some prints which are up your alley and you could ask the OP what they use. Good luck!

Congratulations Sam for your hard work, we are curious to see how it works. You have kept us in the dark for a long time I think it is important to state that regardless of what the marketing and video might imply this is not an official Ultimaker product. Development has been done solely by Sam and Creatr.

It has been mentioned here before, and I think it went around social media for a little bit. Some parts are 3D Printed on an Ultimaker, mostly small fittings and adapters. The body was laser sintered I believe. Nonetheless, great story and application!

If you are just getting started I would probably recommend to have a look at tinkercad, 3Dslash and Morphi. Those are all super accessible tools into 3D modelling. Moving up the ladder have a look at google sketchup and blender. Later, depending on what you want to make you can move to Solidworks, Zbrush or Rhino. There are a lot of options.

Have you already checked out these safety and compliance pages?

Hi Luisito, thank you for your latest update. Could you share a photo with both prints displayed next to each other so we can see the difference? You may want to play around with the temperature settings because the Extrusion upgrade came with a more accurate PT100, temperature measuring tool. It may mean that your previous PT100 was off by a few degrees and printing with the same temperatures doesn't give you the same result.

Hi Luisito, thank you for the recording. It is hard to say anything about the amount of decibel because I don't know how close you were while recording but the sound itself sounds quite normal

wow very nice print!! so much sharp! How did you print it?

No problem! In some ways I don't know if your question requires a different answer then before. I guess you have to discover for yourself which material would serve your needs best. Some materials are easier to post process, some are a little bit more rigid and others give you a better surface finish straight from the printer. And you can try them all, because of Ultimaker's open filament system. I think that is what you need. Plus a community that also has a lot of experience with foreign materials etc. As long as the diameter is rather consistent and is somewhere between 2.7 and 2.99mm you should be OK to give it a try. Like you already said, there is a limiting factor of 260ºC in the firmware, but if your print is only for display purposes you should be good. How big are the boats and rockets going to be? What do you require from the Ultimaker? A smooth surface finish straight from the bed? The opportunity to use a wide variety of filaments? Personally I have no experience with Polymaker PC-Plus but I have printed with XF-CF20 and I loved the mat-finish and strength it had. I have seen video's where people drove over their print and it still survived (but I guess that is not a necessity for a display model) If you want to read more about the materials we offer, and some of the highlights from colorFabb I wrote this piece a little while back.

Hi @StephanK, that is quite a testimonial, thanks! Happy to hear you are loving your Ultimaker and the community. @DrR1pper, welcome to the forums. Even though you don't have an Ultimaker (yet), I would be more than happy to help you make up your mind. Just like Stephan mentioned on a few occasions, your commitment to a 3D printer goes beyond the original purchase price. A lower-end printer probably requires more continuously tinkering to get a decent result and perhaps a lower success-rate. Meaning; if you managed to print a single file to your satisfaction, could you do it again without struggles or would the adventure start all over again? About Ultimaker, you would get involved with a company that has been around for, especially in 3D printing world, quite a long time with a rather reliable track record. That is important. And is not shown in any basic specs. Specs are not everything, just an indication. This community of experts is a huge cornerstone within Ultimaker and they contribute to Ultimaker in various ways. We have seen amazing contributions like Anders Olsson's Olsson-Block, alternative feeders, firmware but also countless users who found help from our expert users who are around for years. We have a good customer policy, with free technical support as long as you use your Ultimaker. A bowden tube allows an Ultimaker to print faster compared to a direct drive. Besides the 3D printing speed you set, it does not mean your printer achieves those speeds. It depends on the size of your print, and the acceleration it can achieve. With a light weight printhead we can print sharp corners easily, without loosing much speed and a better result. This also reflects in surface quality. So the pro's go beyond just 'speed'. Flexible material is more challenging, but after getting more familiar with 3D printing and your Ultimaker definitely doable. For example, this entire dress was printed in PLA flex. I have also printed in Ninja-flex myself, which is even a little bit more flexible. Slower speed, a drop of sewing machine oil in the bowden tube makes all the difference. But I would recommend this for more experienced users. About temperature and filaments, Ultimaker prefers options over limitations. This means there are ways to exceed the 260ºC temperature limit. But again, we recommend to do this when you know what you are doing. It would require a custom firmware and some modifications to your printhead. But users have done it, and it is definitely possible. Also with the help of this amazing community You don't need to know everything, but together we do. ... well.. a lot anyway The fact XT CF20 is abrasive is true, but with the swappable nozzles this is not a problem but maybe an inconvenience. Or just like how your filament runs empty, your nozzle turns more into a consumable depending on what material you use. Luckily, within 15 seconds you have a new nozzle mounted in your Ultimaker and you are ready to continue your 3D printing. Who, quite a long post. I hope I have answered most of your questions. If I have raised new questions or you need more info, let me know!!

Due to the gear it is a little bit louder than without a gear, but it makes up for a lot of quality printing. Could you make a recording of the sound perhaps? If you are worried we could have a look at it. Thanks!

haha this should be the new video clip of that song I could watch this all day.

haha great!! That's one small faceplant for man, one giant leap for mankind

Hi JakM, Thank you for staying with us. Could you share some photos with us showing your first layer? Perhaps your relevelling is still not hitting the sweet spot, so you did make another attempt but perhaps the execution did not have the solution yet. When I am unsure about my leveling, I usually test it by either use my finger or a tool like a screwdriver to gently wipe over the first layer and see if it moves. If it does it is still too low, if it is smooth and tightly stuck to the bed it should be good.

Hi Les, I can imagine a wire and cotter pin leave to much room for the legs to move to left and right too, instead of just forwards and backwards. The walking robots we have barely have any play towards the sides. Probably that is where you can find room for improvement. Take a breather, and see if you can find inspiration and motivation to give it another go It all comes down to the holes: ' So when using a screw (or something else), drill all the holes. So when I did created more walking robots (scale 1:1.5), I used for example a M3 screw: -drilling the body: D2.8 (okay fit for holding this M3 screw) -drilling the feet: D3.2 (some clearance around the M3 screw, for 'frictionless' rotation)' The STEP files are also on YM, if you feel confident you could do better with a print in place

The smallest robot required extra weight as shown in our first video. But the rest didn't. Have you reconsidered the angle of your catwalk? Maybe it is too steep. This is how the feet are suppose to be. (Based on where the antenna's are you know what the front is, in case it was not clear.)

There are still 3 weeks left

It looks like the filament doesn't stick to the bed like it should. There are two solution, and perhaps a combination of both would work best. 1: your bed is a little bit too low. Level it again but set it slightly higher as how you have levelled it now. 2: use a thin layer of adhesive for extra adhesion, like the glue stick delivered with your Ultimaker.

Does it have to be this exact shape or can you just make it easier for yourself and make the bottom flat? If so you could just print it. The holes would probably print just fine as well without support. 'design for 3D print' is really a thing. You can 3D Print a lot of things, and this as well, but you could make it a lot easier for yourself and modify the design a little bit if it allows it.

There has been several users on our forum complaining they did not get their machine to work after buying an Ultimaker clone. There is far more to it then just sourcing approximate parts of an established brand to make a reliable 3D printer so I would certainly advice against it. Besides that, there is also an ethical issue where open sourcing your files is not a permission to start monetising on other peoples research. Supporting these clones is also kinda frowned upon. If you don't want to spend a lot of money I would either recommend to look into an Ultimaker Original or Ultimaker 2 Go, or alternatively another brand of 3D Printer like Printrbot which is cheaper and gives you good value for your money.

What if you print it just like you position it on your last photo? That could work.

@Titus, @Vince805, and creative and fun entries we can expect from your ends?? Did you see that we added an alternative prize of 6 reels of Ultimaker filament to your choosing? @UltiArjan, I have high hopes from your alteration!