SandervG

In case you didn't see it yet, @Stefania Dinea wrote another excellent guide ?

Hi All, I recently had a discussion with a colleague about the colors and filament architects prefer to print with. I think we agreed pretty quickly that PLA was probably the material of choice but we weren't so quick to agree on the use of color and this made me think ? I am/was pretty convinced it was white and 99% white but I I figured, why not ask our architects and double check? The other station my train of thought took me to, was why this preference for white (if so.). Is there a universal preference for the clean and minimal appearance of the color white? Does the lack of color leave the stage open for structural design? I was thinking, it could also be that architects have always used white because that is what the material like foamboards often used for scale models was most available in. But perhaps.. when 3D printing is growing and becomes a more popular and widely used tool this could open up some inspirational doors and we may start seeing some more color to scale models. A dual or multi-colored model is easily made. What do you think? Do you see such a trend, or is it very unlikely to happen? Curious to hear your thoughts ?

Hi @Florisvh , hope you are well! Earlier you said you were working on 3 scaled models for an architect. How did that work? ? Curious to see any updates!

Great project! It looks like the floor on your second photo is under extruded, is it not? You may want to try to make the top layers thicker so the infill doesn't shine through. Do you have an example of the blue print drawing you want to lay out on the floor? Sounds interesting!

Is this the email you used as well? It has a typo in it (youimagine). But in a previous message where I informed about YouMagine having the responsibility to remove spam I also suggest to email to hello@youmagine.com instead of support. Did you try this too?

And from a moderator point of view, you have a chosen a very dangerous and provoking title for your post sir ? Living dangerously ?

Nice, how did you apply the paint? I think the top actually looks pretty good as the way the pink is applied makes the shirt look a bit transparent. Did the print have any support material too?

Thanks, I'll see if I can find anything why Firefox chooses to ignore the configuration. What do you mean it got worse, what got worse exactly? I just checked on Chrome (desktop & mobile) and it works as expected. It shows once, and after closing not again.

What about the X and Y dimensions, are they correct or off as well?

Just going through this thread and saw you didn't get a reply yet here. But this limit of reactions has been changed to 'unlimited' since then ?

Hi @mnis , thanks for the input! I don't think it is specifically named after Makerbot, but in the industry it is an acknowledged term for PLA with these characteristics. Besides MBI, you can find many vendors who have 'Tough PLA'. I suppose, because the name makes sense, more vendors have chosen this title. In this case, it is a good thing to share the same name because you know what you are getting as a user. There is a very clear difference between Tough PLA and HT-PLA, which probably also caused your problem with lack of adhesion; is the glass transition temperature. Tough PLA is very similar to regular PLA, while, I believe, HT-PLA is closer to ABS. Tough PLA actually adheres really, really well to the glass plate. Therefore we even recommend to add a thin layer of glue stick, for easier removal. You should expect no/minimal warping from Tough PLA ? (as you would from regular PLA)

@geert_2, you mention a few examples how your design rules differ from Steve's. Steve was I think looking at strong models, but you say you print 100% solid so there can be no liquid inside but strength is not that important. What kind of models do you make usually? I didn't really get that from your post and would be helpful to put your tips in perspective I think. @geert_2 and @SteveCox3D , after reading these comments, especially Geert's alternative purpose for prints, I was thinking if it would make sense to divide this topic into 2 different threads. One with DfAM tips for strong models, and one for prints with higher surface quality, like Geerts. I don't mean to break up this conversation and I think we all could contribute on both, but I can imagine if a new person would be helped by this information, it would help if it would be kind of segmented and easier to find / recognizable. What do you think?

Looks good! What scale are you working at? You may be interested (and find other interested architects) in this thread . Feel free to share some more photo's there ?

Knowing @geert_2 I think you might find this an interesting read and you may have an opinion about the thick vs thin layer question ?

Hi @geert_2 , interesting question! Although this was not particularly researched in any of the tests, there is a suspicion from our material engineers that due to the additives in Tough PLA the crystallization over time will be less and therefore won't change that much over time.

? Firefox still shows it on the homepage though, even after the configuration change? I usually use Chrome, and it works like intended here. Tested on Safari too, works as well as intended.

Thanks for the feedback. I've changed the configuration so that it only shows ones during your session. Close it, and it won't show again. If you close your browser, and visit our community again; it pops up again. Just once though. I can not configure it so that it only shows once a day, unfortunately. Is there a specific reason why you won't browse while being logged in? Isn't that much easier, plus you can see your notifications?

Wow @SteveCox3D, excellent write-up! I hope this will prove to be helpful for engineers exploring the field of 3D printing. Well, even I found it interesting to read and I have been around for years (but then again, I'm not an engineer :p) One thing I wonder, and I believe there are different believes about it; which gives a stronger model regarding layer bonding and overall wall strength; thick layers or thin layers? I find tempting to believe that thick layers are stronger, because the layers are thicker (duh), and therefore there are less layers to bond too, which could be less weak points. And because a thick layer caries more heat, it bonds better with the previous layer. On the other hand, a thin layer is extruded with more pressure (is it though?), on the previous layer and could ensure a better bond. My main question, if I would want to print a strong model; should I go for thick layers or thin layers? (and if the shape of the model is important, what is a rule of thumb?) Thanks!! ?

Hi @Gigi , the main evolution I was curious after was the growth in users who use their 3D printer professionally. Definition of 'professionally' I hope I defined in the statements above. When you use your 3D printer not 'just' for fun, but as a tool for a hobby, I would say it qualifies for the 3rd option. And I certainly hope you enjoy your hobby ?

Hi @zerspaner_gerd and @kmanstudios, that popup is actually quite new. It shows when you visit our community as a guest and appear to be reading a topic (it pops up after 15 sec after page load). I am looking at what the optimal configuration is, so thank you for the feedback! How do you mean you could not log in? It should be blocked from the home page (community.ultimaker.com) and the register page. I'll look into it to be sure. How do you mean once should be enough? Like when you close it once it should not pop up again?

And thank you for participating @peggyb, we hope you gained something out of it ?

Thanks @fbrc8-erin , you've been amazing! Thank you so much for making some time available and give us more insight in how we assemble Ultimaker's in the US and how you do quality control. If anyone has any further questions, feel free to write them below. The official time has past but we'll try to answer any follow up questions at a later time as good as we can! In a month or so we'll have a new UltimakerAMA where you have the opportunity to talk to Ultimaker or Industry expert. If you would like to talk to someone, or if you would like a certain subject; let me know!! You can write your suggestions here :)

There are 5 official minutes left on the clock! If you have anything you want to know, ask now!! :)

Hi @cjs, not everything is as easy to retrofit as it may seem. And sometimes it may not always be necessary either. When something is changed, and especially a vital part like a build platform, it changes a lot of processes and requires a lot of new testing to ensure that we don't introduce any other problems or unwanted side-effects. We have to take a lot into account, more than just 'will it fit'. For that reason, it may be the case that it is decided not to retrofit certain parts. Especially when, in this case, the Ultimaker 2+ is already a work-horse!

Hah, nope! We have different colors that fit different roles. I believe Blue, Red and Black. @SteveH may have to correct me there. I believe the blue shirts are for production and are also ESD safe. Red shirts are for inbound quality control. Green is logistics and black are the teamleads.