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Models on thingiverse are sometimes in bad shape. It's almost certainly a defective model. There are lots of ways to fix it. I'd start with this method: In the upper right corner of Cura click "marketplace" and make sure you are on the "plugins" tab and install "Mesh Tools". Then restart Cura. Now right click on your model, choose "mesh tools" and first choose "check mesh", then "fix model normals" and "fix simple holes" to see if that helps. Cura doesn't fix most issues so... If that doesn't work netfabb will likely fix it: netfabb free repair service is here (you have to create a free account first): https://service.netfabb.com/login.php

It's hard to explain in words but the end of the filament can get caught under a loop on the spool. At that point you have a "permanent" tangle that will keep moving around the spool. Sometimes the printer is strong enough to just pull through it but often it can't. The basic solution is to remove the spool from the back of the machine, unspool a few meters and while doing that you should be able to fully visualize the tangle and fix it by passing the spool through the loop. Or if that's too mentally difficult, unload the filament and remove the tangle by passing the end of the filament back under the loop again and then reloading into the printer. The way to keep this from ever happening again is to NEVER let the end of the filament go. If you let go for 1/10th of a second it can sproing like a spring and jump under another loop without you noticing.

So if I remember right, I asked you to publish a project file and you still haven't done that. It's been many weeks. If you can post a project file then I can probably duplicate the problem and if I can duplicate the problem then so can the cura team and we can create a github issue and get this fixed. To create a project file, in cura, do "file" "save project as". Then post the file it creates. It will contain your machine settings, etc. Oh wait - you *did* create a project file. however the object was too big. Cura wouldn't let me print it because the object exceeded the build plate. Please scale down the part so it isn't so close to the edge of the printer and then duplicate the issue and *then* save the project file. I still think the issue is related to your floating point processor.

When Cura is that slow it's usually because it is looking at some device: try unplugging any and all USB devices, serial ports, make sure you only have one monitor plugged in, disconnect external drives, network drives, USB flash drives, uSD cards, etc (cura looks for all of those), disable all security products like firewalls. Oh - and your lan. And the internet. Unplug from the network (just to see if that fixes the issue). Often it's one of the above things that causes the problem. If it is fixed then you can start plugging things back in to find out which one causes the problem.

All set. I marked it. But here's the process:

So you are all set? Problem solved?

Works for me. Did you click in the white areas? away from the print bed. Away from the part. Well there are 3 ways to do everything. An alternate way to orbit is to use the left/right/up/down arrows on your keyboard. Other useful things: Zoom: scroll wheel or use + and - on numpad Pan: shift right mouse drag I think maybe middle mouse button does something also but I don't have a middle mouse button and my scroll wheel won't click. If you have a 3D mouse or space mouse - that works great also and moves the view in 6 axes (3 rotational axes, 3 movement axes).

click the mouse far away from the part and then drag and you don't get the popup.

Did you delete that 0.0 folder?

But you *can* change layer height at a certain layer and say "from here up do 0.1mm layers instead of 0.32mm layers"

By the way, it is possible to reprogram the 3dsolex to be "AA 0.25" but this won't help your issue of wanting different layer heights. I reread your first post and realize this has nothing to do with print head or cores - it has to do with changing layer heights when you reach a certain position. I would strongly consider using S3D. S3D lets you split the part up by layer heights and change things when you switch to a new Z height. Crua is much more fancy - it has "mesh modifiers" where you can have a complicated 3D shape say that "anything in this area has different settings". Unfortunately, layer height is not an option because the mesh is a complicated shape but easy to implement in S3D because the shape is simple - it's a layer change. Does this make sense? That's why it's an easy feature for S3D but very difficult for Ultimaker. Another solution in Cura is to slice the letters as a different part. Set the Z position of the letters exactly at the top of the first part and using the second extruder. Then you have to cut/paste the second gcode onto the first. You really need to practice this with a small part first as there are many things that can go wrong (for example don't copy the header section of the first part). But it is doable.

Can you explain more about the fan speed? You could be referring to many things I know of or something I don't know about. I guess the first thing I can think of: Typically the fan is off on the first layer and then increases slowly until around the 5th layer. Maybe this is what you refer to? If not then please be more specific - exactly what fan speed did you expect and why. And what fan speed did you get on the printer? Also some printers show it as a percentage from 0 to 100. Other printers show it as a number from 0 to 255 (where 255=100%). The gcode uses 0 to 255 I think. In cura, you can enter "fan" in the settings search and it will show all (I think that's all of them) relevant settings (it won't show settings that aren't used for example if you disable support then it won't show any fan settings related to support - if there are any). Note also that there are special fan settings features related to bridging. Particularly, the @burtoogle version (aka smartavionics) of Cura has some outstanding features for bridging. Some of them got pulled into recent versions of Cura but some I think are only in his version here: https://github.com/smartavionics/Cura/releases

It appears to be up again.

You are reading more into @ahoeben answer than is there. He merely answered the question. Answering the question is not being disrespectful. In Cura, you can't have different layer heights for 2 different things on the same layer. The one exception I know of is that you can have infill be an integral multiple of the infill (or is it support? I think it's infill.). So different layer heights with 2 different nozzles can complicate things. Now you have to worry about collisions where a nozzle hits something that was printed at a taller height - potentially with a different nozzle. It's quite tricky. I'm guessing they implemented it such that the Z axis never goes backwards. Which means sometimes you have to do multiple layers with one nozzle. But if there are sloped walls now sometimes you have to print under an overhang - yikes. This just seems like a can of worms unless you are printing very simple things - for example things with only vertical walls.

I am familiar with probably 50 companies that make 3d printers and I have never heard of Longer3D. Anyway you are asking the wrong question: Why has no one at Longer3D sent the Cura team any machine profiles? They've been around for a long time (I hear) and they still haven't submitted a machine profile? You just have to do a git pull request and if it's a printer that is not yet in Cura, the Cura team will just accept it as is. So it's pretty easy to submit a machine profile. Alternatively, one of the users of Longer3D could create a machine profile at least for *one* of the Longer3D products. It's really easy to submit one of these to be permanently part of Cura. Please look at this link - this is the place to discuss issues with the Cura team and Longer3D has already been mentioned specifically here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/9035

If you are willing to clean out all your settings then try this: exit cura, delete everything in this folder and then restart cura: C:\Users\\<your username>\AppData\Roaming\cura\<Cura version>\

Don't send the profile - save your project: do "file" "save project as..." and post that file. It will contain your model, your printer/machine settings, your profile and overrides. Basically everything we need to duplicate the problem.

Oh - I've seen this exact problem. Uncheck that checkbox "origin at center" in your first picture. That's definitely the problem.

Or they can get in the habit of checking the firmware version on the printer (simple menu operation) each day or each week or each time the printer is acting weird. And they can have the current version on an SD card in a safe place to restore it if necessary. There's a good chance this is a non-issue for them.

I'm not sure but that's what I would do - use generic ABS and modify the temps in the settings. You probably will want to play with the fan also - you probably want the fan to be on but as low as possible. On an S5 that's probably around 2 or 3% fan - I'd experiment as my printer seems to prefer a lower fan speed than most profiles I've seen for higher temp materials like 3dktop. However the material station complicates things. A lot!! The firmware for the material station/S5 combination likes to do a sort of "cold pull" when you are done printing. This means it cools the core to an exact temperature and then has the feeder pull extremely hard until the filament pops out of the core. The "cold pull temp" (it appears to be called "break temperature") might need to be different for ABS versus 3dktop. Just now I looked and I see it's in the material settings - this is from the material settings for ABS (table below) - it's called "break temperature" and is set to 85C which is scary low for ABS (and 3dktop) - I'd be tempted to up that to 100C. The only way I know to edit is to export ABS and then edit the file and import it into a new material. I'd probably do a cold pull (look up how to do this - it involves removing the bowden tube) starting at 85C and slowly increase the temp - I'm guessing you get a nice pull around 100C for 3dktop - and then use that temp for the "break temperature". Then I'd just try it and if it gets stuck in the printer I'd just heat it up manually and pop off the bowden and pull it out that way but that's me - most people don't want to have to potentially take apart their material station! I'm not afraid to do that. Anyway - maybe you should talk to your reseller about modifying the break temperature and ask them what to do if you can't get the material out after the print is over. If they don't know anything about this then I would avoid 3dktop (or find a better reseller?). Absolutely positively it's fine to remove and put back your bowden but taking apart your material station can violate your warranty if you don't get permission from your reseller first. <setting key="no load move factor">0.95</setting> <setting key="maximum park duration">7200</setting> <setting key="standby temperature">200</setting> <setting key="heated bed temperature">80</setting> <setting key="break preparation temperature">230</setting> <setting key="break preparation position">-16</setting> <setting key="break temperature">85</setting> <setting key="surface energy">70</setting> <setting key="break speed">25</setting> <setting key="break position">-50</setting> <setting key="end of filament purge length">20</setting> <setting key="end of filament purge speed">0.5</setting> <cura:setting key="material_shrinkage_percentage">100</cura:setting> <setting key="build volume temperature">36</setting> <setting key="print temperature">230</setting> <setting key="flush purge speed">0.5</setting> <setting key="anti ooze retract position">-4</setting> <setting key="adhesion tendency">0</setting> <setting key="flush purge length">60</setting> <setting key="anti ooze retract speed">5</setting> <setting key="break preparation speed">10</setting>

I had this feature on my UMO and it's nice but I don't miss it because unlike the prusa, the bed moves up and down on the Ultimaker printers and so it starts all the way up. so it's very convenient to reach under the build plate and be able to turn the 3 leveling screws. You can turn them live while it prints. The 3 screws are built so well that it's trivial to adjust them while the printer is printing. Smooth, easy action. It's a very simple, quick process. Similar to "live z". I do this all the time on my UM3 and UM2 printers but it's not needed on the S3 and S5 because their autolevel works extremely well. But you can do it if you want.

I would definitely stick with the default creality slicer for the first 100 prints. Yes, avoid sketchup. Here's a great guide to picking CAD software. Click to zoom in.

So usually, in windows, all your hard drives and network drives and CDROM drives, etc have a letter. Usually the primary drive is "c:". That's usually where windows itself is stored and that's usually where everything is stored as usually that's the only drive. But sometimes people have a second hard drive and that is typically the "d:" drive. And sometimes people have networked drives and those can be any letter you want a-z. If you go into windows explorer (for example hold down the windows key between ctl and alt keys and press E - that opens up explorer) and then click on "my computer" or "computer" or "This PC" (I forget which versions of windows call it what) then you should see a section called "devices and drives" and all your drives. If you can't find your "c:" drive then you aren't in the right place within explorer yet - keep looking. Is there an X drive listed? If so that is conflicting with the cura install process. Maybe you can dismount that drive temporarily - just long enough to install cura.

Someone recently had this same error and it was because they already had something else as their X drive? I guess maybe the installer mounts a temporary X drive as part of the install process and if you already have one then it's a problem. Maybe. [correction - not the installer - the runtime of cura checks the x drive for some files but only if x: is mounted]

Not support. Tower. In fact print a tiny test part - I'd sink the part into the bed so that only the small part will be printed. While it prints the tower, the part sticking up can cool.